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Larry

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About Larry

  • Rank
    Newbie

Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    520H

Profile Information

  • Location
    frederick, md

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  1. I'm rebuilding a pair of EZT transmissions on a Toro 50" zero turn I bought on Craigslist for $450. I have one side opened up and decided to replace the pump because the pistons have a bit more play than I thought was new. The original pump has 7 pistons, each 13.4 mm dia. I bought a replacement pump and come to find it has 5 pistons, each 16mm dia. The motor side also has 5 pistons. I haven't measured them. The blocks measure the same diameter and height between old and new. Does it make any difference to performance to use a 5 piston pump? Some drawings call out the same part number for both pump and motor. I calculated the displacement will be nominally the same with either block. Is the 5 piston a correct replacement part for the 7, or did I grab an incorrect parts list online? ZC-DFBB-5W5A-3CPX
  2. 520H hydro leak

    Craig, I suspect that metal tube just above the input shaft. Was that difficult to service? What has to get off? I had to replace two of those rubber hydraulic lines a couple of years back due to leaking. I had to have one made locally from parts because Toro was out of stock and it was middle season. The commercial fittings aren't tidy 90* pieces either, they have a long sweep. It was a nightmare to install. I have leaks at the deck control valve underneath too. That is really hard to work on with all the hidden fasteners that should have had captive nuts! There's a bit of oil from everywhere. I'm trying to get the worst ones.
  3. I put the mower blades on backwards once; it didn't cut too well and used a lot of fuel to cut the yard. . Anyway, the hydro collects a lot of clippings and is difficult to inspect. I thought a gauge would help me keep track of the temperature before it ran hot enough to turn on the idiot light. My hydro temp sender is broken, so it's time to do something about it anyway.
  4. wheelhorse 520h onan engine no spark

    If the tractor has been stored outdoors over the winter, it's not unusual to lose the ignition coil. I have lost one on my tractor to this. The very fine wire the secondary is wound with breaks easily if moisture works it's way into the coil and then you get thaw/freeze cycles. You can test the coil off the tractor. Connect a usable spark plug to the secondary and ground. Hook a 12V battery across the primary of the ignition coil with clip leads. Tap the clip leads to intermittently make and break the circuit. If you get spark, the ignition coil is good. No spark, the coil is bad. Do not operate the coil without a plug connected. That can cause break down of the coil's insulation internally.
  5. I have a leak that I haven't been able to locate for a few years. I solved a good bit of the problem when I found the plastic fill tube had cracked adjacent to the threads. I replace that with a length of iron pipe cut to length and ground flat for the dipstick. But the tractor continues to leak near the hydro side. What is the most common place for a seal to fail? Does the hydro have to come apart to replace seals? I think the axle tube seals are okay.
  6. I need to idiot proof this shifter

    I recommend installing spring loaded seat mount with mircroswitch. Interlock the ignition so the tractor can't run if you're not in the seat. That's how the new tractors are done. You can fashion a seat and spring assembly from steel angle and a spring. An injury from the tractor could last your lifetime.
  7. Has anyone installed a temperature gauge for monitoring the hydro temperature? I was considering removing the voltmeter which is of hardly any information and installing an automotive oil temperature gauge in this spot. I was wondering what the nominal temperature is for the hydro on a hot day so I select a meter with a good range. The voltmeter isn't needed, but feedback on when the hydro needs clippings cleaned out would be valuable.
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