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About krb

  • Rank
  • Birthday 01/23/1964

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1988 Kohler Magnum 310-8 w/ 42" deck
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Location
    Central KY
  • Occupation
    UK Extension
  • Interests
    Farming, old trucks, camping & boating, history
  1. Good deal. I'll revisit that and see what we need. Many thanks,
  2. We have been looking to pick up a used stator, magnet, etc. My brother finally found a stator and flywheel for a decent price. So now we have the parts for a 15 amp system. I know we now need a regulator and I guess we'll need to modify the wiring some. Any tips appreciated from those of you that have done this.
  3. Oh wow. Thanks! I searched the threads but not the site, guess I need to familiarize myself more.
  4. It's been running like that for years. Might have even gotten it that way. If the parts let loose while I was on it I never noticed and you'd think you would unless it was just a few little pieces at a time. It did vibrate but we had nothing to compare it to. I only ran it for a little bit last night and it seemed to be smoother. Then the governor rod plastic keeper let loose and while patching that the throttle cable broke... Guess we'll be looking for a used stator at least. Doubt we can find a magnet so probably have to source a used flywheel as well. Guess we'll look for OEM as well as an upgrade and see which we come across first/cheapest. BTW - the manual referenced above helped with flywheel removal but specifies K models and the torque rating for the flywheel bolt ranged from 45-90ftlbs. Anybody know offhand what it is for the Magnum 10? I set it at 50 for now. Thanks again,
  5. OK, not the best pictures but it's a flip phone - or an Iflip as I like to call it... Anyway, part of the stator stayed with the block and part stuck to the flywheel - but is that all of it? is there another third that is supposed to be there? Not looked at the manual yet. And there appears to be a magnet missing? Again, not checked the manual to see what it started out with. Plus I found an odd bolt stuck to the magnet and no idea where it is from... So, guess we are needing a new stator. Just need to decide if we stay OEM or upgrade and modify. And also wondering - if we taped off the leads to the stator for now, it will still run and operate but just not charge right? Looking at the schematics, what is left is complete, the 10 winds, just in pieces now.
  6. Got the puller on the flywheel earlier in the week. Been spraying the shaft and applying pressure. Hope to pop it off this weekend.
  7. I'm digging in to see what the stator looks like and the connections there. Any tips for pulling the flywheel? Or a good link? I assume it needs to be indexed? Thanks for all yourall's help and advice, I've learned a lot.
  8. Not gotten another meter to compare yet but AC voltage at anode end is 0.109-0.120 on the 2V scale, doesn't register on the 200V scale. I checked it against 120V house current and the meter appears accurate. So I guess we have the problem isolated to the stator or recitifier huh?
  9. OK, I'll check that and see, maybe borrow my dad or brothers to compare readings. Have to work tomorrow so may have time Sunday. Thanks
  10. Well I finally had an evening off AND it is raining AND no kid duty so I have some shop time! Post # 41: At the cathode end I have 12.3v. Post # 43: For the diode check I have 626 (manual says scale is 400-1,000) at cathode and 1 when reversed. And 6bg6ba you guess correct on the Craftsman meter. Post # 46: At the connector I get 12.3v, following the wire to the key switch I get 12.3v at the "A" (even though that schematic shows it is "R"). Sooo, did I get two dud batteries? It has been starting fine but we have also been putting it on a trickle charge thinking it is not charging. Or is 12.3v just not enough, the trouble shoot guide says 12.5? Thanks
  11. I'm thinking you are right. The "1" was at the far left which I thought was odd and I believe it did register 000 the other way. I'll confirm and check the meter manual one evening when I get a chance - probably not this week...
  12. pfrederi - it was set to "ohms". 20K I think. It was "1" like in the first picture of #38. I don't know my way around a multi-meter real well... 6bg6ga - I'll check that next. How can I tell the cathode end? Thanks again guys for your patience and efforts,
  13. Test 1 = 12.4v Test 2 = - 0.2 Test 3 = 1 in both directions Test 4 = 5.5
  14. Eureka! Finally found the little bugger. It was tucked into the short lead from the motor to the connector and hidden under the starter. With the multimeter I get a reading of 1 and 671.
  15. Tractor ID # is 2110K804 22564 The light switch has black wires with a green tracer. Larger one goes to the headlights, other goes to a connector by the motor which turns into a yellow wire that terminates under the starter, along with the black wire with white tracer which connects to the keyswitch terminal "A". Pictures forthcoming.