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About jdmitchjr@verizon.net

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Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    Wheel Horse
    Type D-180
    Model 1-0612
    Year 1975
    Ark loader
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Location
    Andover, MA

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  1. D-180 steering column

    Attached is the information I found on the site to get the parts. Note that the following pin was the wrong size so I reground the original. Also, I found that the bearings on the wheel spindles were shot and cleaning the spindles, removing the remainder of the disintegrated bearings, re-greasing, and installing new bearings (from McMaster & Carr) made steering much easier and that probably eases the work for the steering box. Hope this helps. steering parts.pdf note that there is an image AND a pdf -- you should look at both for parts information.
  2. D-180 steering column

    I saw your post but am away from where I have the information on the parts. When I get home this weekend I will respond more fully. For now.... The bearing at the top of the column cam from McMaster & Carr and was jb welded in place. The bearings in the box were a matching part number from another tractor company -- I got the information from another great thread on rebuilding the column. The following pin that came with the parts was not the right size so I ended up cleaning up the out of round pin on the grinder being careful not to let it get too hot and soften the part. The dash grommet came from a very nice Red Square member who had at least one extra at the right time for me. Otherwise the big problem is getting the assembly out of the tractor to work on. I will see if I can find the other link and get that information to you. Otherwise look for another post on Sunday. Regards
  3. D-180 forward problem

    That is very kind and appreciated, but way too far for you to travel. Perhaps if my family still had the lake house at Lake Copake it might have worked out.... Regards, John
  4. D-180 forward problem

    I am in Andover, MA. Why? Regards, John
  5. D-180 forward problem

    Thanks for the quick reply. I think you got the one I was watching..... Good luck with your rebuild. I think I found a rebuild service -- Jim's Repair. I will post the quote. Anyone have experience with this shop? Thanks. Regards, John
  6. D-180 forward problem

    Jones & Son? Is that a shop that does Sunstrand rebuilds? If it is, please send me contact information. Thanks. Regards, John
  7. D-180 forward problem

    Thanks. I checked the linkage and it appears to be fine -- nothing broken, nothing disconnected, nothing hanging free. And it seems like it is activating the transmission to drive forward, just no power. I have the Sunstrand manual and landed on the page you posted from. But I am having trouble understanding from the manual how to field check the two valves. It seems to me that the unit needs to be pulled out and apart to check. Any suggestions on doing it without pulling the unit and what to look for? Also, this may seem like a really dumb question, but I was under the impression that the fluid in the transaxle is the same fluid reservoir for the hydro system. Is that correct? Is there another place other than the transaxle dipstick to check fluid level and/or fill the hydro unit? And anyone out there have a rebuilt or known working hydro pump and motor for sale? Or does anyone do rebuilding? I am not sure I have the time to do it myself. Thanks. Regards, John
  8. D-180 forward problem

    Update -- Added fluid to the transmission and it seemed to be better for a short time and then the problem returned. I am letting it sit for a while to check the fluid level (and to get more oil). In case anyone queries temperature, it has a temp gauge that is not working, it is about 55 degrees F today, and the pump and motor had years of crud pressure washed off so the fins should be doing their jobs. John
  9. D-180 forward problem

    I have a 1975 D-180 with an ark loader. Bought it used about a year and a half ago and have been fixing it up as needed (mufflers, rebuilt steering box, new spindle bearings, and some other minor stuff) but not doing a full restore. It has been running well and just beginning to earn its keep. It has been running and driving fine. Moved some big rocks, large tree trunks, and 13 year old daughter drive it around the yard for about two hours -- all seemed good. Today, moving mulch around, after about an hour and a half, it stopped going forward. Reverse is fine. If the lever is pushed all the way forward, it will creep forward on level ground and it whines. If the lever is pushed all the way forward and a human pushes just a little bit, it goes forward easily and the whining stops. It almost seems like it wants to go forward. Since it goes in reverse fine and there is no awful mechanical noise when it tries to go forward, I think the coupler is fine. The transmission fluid level is routine checked and was checked when the problem arose. It is resting now and I will check the fluid level again. It does leak from the case split. Perhaps it is low and the whine is fluid starvation. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. I am new to these hydro pumps and transmissions.... Thanks. Regards. John
  10. D-250 questions

    aldefed -- I for one would love to see more photos and information about your hydraulic steering conversion. I am thinking about doing the conversion to a D-180 with a loader. My mid lift is not going to be used so I was thinking of driving the steering valve with the mid lift ports instead of adding a pump. Thanks. Regards.
  11. D-180 Muffler Solution

    I would have liked to have shortened the shells a bit as Pacer did (his post of the photo of his replacement was my main guide for mine), but I am without a welder and way out of welding practice. And it was not a big enough or meaningful enough project for my wife to okay a welder.... I am thinking about adding a compressor silencer like the one shown below. It will be an easy add as I ended with a 1" npt female elbow. My sense is that the selected muffler is almost a straight pass through and with one muffler per cylinder not enough out of phase sound waves are setting up, making it not as quiet as I would like. So restricting the outlet a bit with the silencer might help that, as long as I do not create too much back pressure. Any thoughts on that? Regards.
  12. D-180 Muffler Solution

    The D-180 I picked up last year came with undersized non-original mufflers, one of which was falling apart. After a fair amount of research and good information from this forum, I selected the FO-11 muffler from Stanley as a replacement. See Stanley catalog listing below. Some of the research revealed that shell lengths have been less than accurate. This can be a problem when trying to fit the muffler into the D-180 front frame. The actual shell length came in a bit longer than specified, but it just fit. I ordered the mufflers from ruralking.com at a little over $15 each and reasonable shipping. The inlet was about right for 1" npt pipe. The outlet was a bit big for 1" npt pipe but with a slot and muffler repair tape I ended up with a good clamped joint. I used a 90 degree street elbow at the top which get the muffler as high as possible in the frame. I also used a 90 degree street elbow to turn the exhaust to avoid burning grass. The result was a tight fit and some contact with the front frame. I am not happy about the frame contact, but the solution is okay for now. The after photo was taken before I adjusted the angle of the outlet on the left (when viewing) side. Sound level is reduced by about 50% by ear, so a big improvement. Regards.
  13. pto adjustment

    Yesterday, after doing some work on my D-180 with an Ark loader, I went to pull it out of the garage but the bucket would not lift. The pto belt was not engaging at all. Closer inspection revealed that the tension adjustment bolt is missing and likely someplace in the grass between the shed and the garage. The bolt goes through the tabs shown in the photos below as indicated by the yellow arrows. The bolt part is easy but my sense is that there should be one or two springs as well. None of the manuals I have show this part of the pto pump and I do not recall what was there before. The question is whether there should be a spring over the bolt: between the tabs (blue arrows) and/or between the top of the top tab and the nut (green arrows)? Thanks for any input. Regards.
  14. D-180 axle and axle pivot

    With excellent information and support from the forum, I rebuilt the steering box and column. That went fairly well but for getting it in and out without pulling the hydro system. Yesterday I replaced the thrust bearings and washers on the spindles. On side was not very good shape and the bearings were not rolling but the parts were intact. The other side the bearings and one of the washers were broken. With new bearings, washers and fresh grease, that seems pretty good. While inspecting things under the tractor, I noticed a substantial amount of play in the axle a the axle pivot. I suspect that the axle pivot is worn and maybe even the hole in the axle as well. I suspect that this is the source of some of the remaining play in the steering. The bolts holding the pivot pin in place do not look exactly like the manual drawing, do not look quite right, and are both loose. I think someone might have worked on this part before. Any thoughts, comments, information, advice on the axle pivot system? Anyone know of a source for the pivot pin? Any one know the dimensions on the pivot pin for making one from scratch? Has anyone put in a larger pivot pin to take up the wear on the hole through the axle? Thanks very much. Regards.

    For small parts, I use an old crock pot on low setting with simple green and stir occasionally. Careful, because it lifts paint as well as crud. And because simple green is water based, parts need to be dried and either promptly painted or coated with fresh oil or wd40 soon after removal.