Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About sidperry

  • Rank
  • Birthday 03/05/1949

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    Wheel Horse C-81 manual
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Occupation
    Retired IBMer
  • Interests
    Electronics, writing mystery
  1. New Lighting

    The problems I find with LED lights is that the LED circuit boards themselves are most often sealed in resin for use in a wet/damp environment and in most cases you can't just unsolder and replace a burnt out single LED, if you can find isolate which one in the series circuit that has gone bad. Also I find that they are often wired in groups so when one burns out you lose 3 when only one is actually bad. So off you go buying a whole new light assembly. I also notice the same with my garage LED lead lights. The whole light goes out (all 40 LEDs wired in series) with the burn out of one single LED. Not everyone can isolate a single failed LED thats covered in resin to waterproof the unit. Another issue is that not all LEDs are the same, and the wave lengths vary from manufacturers and solid state material used. Also most are made overseas and the companies come and go rather fast. The look pretty, but many have a high infant mortality rate. For some applications I personally prefer screwing in a single bulb, than hunting up a look alike assembly, that I can see (in most cases) better with. On my C-81 I moved the headlight assy. back 3/4 of an inch from the lens and the standard 1156s don't melt anything.
  2. C-81 not charging

    Do this test on the bench! I test shunt regulators by using a 24 VAC (from radio shack) transformer hooked to the two AC input pins. You MUST hook a good battery up to the +B terminal and the battery's minus post to the heat sink case on the regulator for it to work as in the tractor. I do this on the shop bench away from the tractor. Then I measure the battery voltage, it should be 13+ volts and going up or staying around or near 13 VDC if your regulator is working. FYI one stator input is directly connected to the +B internally just inside the regulator input lugs. A shunt regulator works by shorting (Via SCR) any over voltage directly to ground when the battery is at full charge, thus the big heat sink used to soak up unneeded voltage. If the output starts dropping the regulator is NG. You could, if you got creative, hook a load across the battery to simulate a load.
  3. Home made bead breaker

    I use a 2 X 10 with a "C" shape cut into it. I make a ramp out of it by setting, the "C" shape cut" it on the rim of the tire next to the bead and drive the front wheel of my Subaru up the little ramp and let it sit. In a few minutes, pop the bead is broken. Works for me.