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Rob R

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About Rob R

  • Rank
    Brewster NY Rob
  • Birthday 02/21/1947

Contact Methods

  • MSN

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    Working Tractors and Attachments:
    C-81 (1979) 8HP Kohler, Snow Plow, 38" rear discharge Mower, 1970 GT14, 48" Mower, Snow Blower and 3 PT Scrapper Blade
    GT14 (1970) 14HP Kohler, 3 Point Hitch, S/Stage Snow Blower, 48" Mower
    Sears Suburban (1970) 13HP Honda, 3 Point Hitch, Generator, Chipper, Two 42" Mower Decks, Rear Scrapper Blade
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Military Member
  • Location
    Southeast, Brewster, NY
  • Occupation
    Retired IBM Project Manager
  • Interests
    Anything Mechanical and Made in the USA

Recent Profile Visitors

2,447 profile views
  1. Super work Cleat doing yourself proud with those two ponies......
  2. Repower

    Sarge gets a salute from me ….. since you doing the re-wiring adding a solenoid now is the WAY to go it is simple and MUCH safer.... additional cost $20 plus some wires......
  3. Anyone interested in Wisconsin motor parts?

    Hi Achto, I have 9.25 HP AENLD that I just got running, has electric start, runs and starts great l..... Heavy Duty engine 1 1/8" shaft. Message me if your interested, live in Brewster NY. Thanks Rob
  4. Happy Birthday Aldon

    KUDO'S Aldon have a good one!
  5. Military Members

    Paul, you need to drop a note to nylyon the site admin and he will get the Army emblem onto your member I.D.. Thanks for your service.
  6. 520 xi Could Not Pass It Up

    Beauty, nice find and good luck with it Steve.
  7. So I have a Honda gx390 OHV engine in one of my Sears Suburban's which runs great and has cut my lawn for at least 5 years, it has electric and pull start. The engine was installed by the PO as was the wiring. Since I have owned it, it has never charged correctly. It has two wires coming from the engine one black and one brown... The black is currently connect back to the B+ through a small 1 inch plastic connector that has the symbol for a Diode on it I suspected that this is the juice back to the battery don't know if this is also some sort of rectifier (very small like one inch X one inch plastic) I took the voltage reading off this and it was a very low reading ….. like 2.5 volts DC. The other brown wire to me was more like it this wire is just hanging not connected voltage measured 27-32 volt AC.... Both wires have the same push-on connector and I seriously considered switching the wires (connecting the hanging 27-32 volt AC to the Diode and see what happens but I didn't have the courage to do it). Questions : Could I install a new circuit using a external rectifier to the 27 volt AC drop? Note there is only ONE wire from the stator putting out the 27 volts DC all the Wheel Horse rectifiers I have seen have TWO wires and a B+ tab. Would you try connecting the hot AC volt line to the current Diode/Rectifier? Could doing this take out the Diode, also If yes and this provides DC output how would I control the amount of charge to the battery. Do they make ONE wire (AC input Rectifiers) ? Lots of questions I really need to solve this problem so that the battery stays charged and I can use the starter. Thanks in advance
  8. Complete Heavy Duty Wheel Horse Three Point Hitch Attacment with class one (1) drawbar. This Attachment is relatively easy to install; remove shifter panel, seat and set ratchet panel and bolt this in. Unit comes with EVERYTHING you need to install on a 1969>72 GT14. Includes: Rock Shaft, Rear Axle Bracket, Drawbar, 2" Trailer adapter, Stainless Steel side chain adjusters. Center adjustable Link. Everything is Heavy Duty. All bolts, pins and clips are included. Brewster, NY Pick-up; Cell 914-282-0050
  9. Don't think I am crazy, but...

    I have heard since I was a kid that a clean car runs better and faster...… so there you go.
  10. Tobacco Road GT14

    Great idea Riche but then I would have to find one and pay for your first class round trip Florida to NY and back...…..OUCH!
  11. Tobacco Road GT14

    As per the pics I have the nut loose what is holding this now is "A' Shaft as shown in DaveO's pics..... I am really afraid that it is stuck and rusted so bad that that "A" shaft is almost welded in there. I do not want to damage or break this off...… so for now she will have to be stuck in the ON position. Attaching some pics of the finished machine
  12. Tobacco Road GT14

    Thanks for the input Sarge …. how much heat did you put on it ….. like glowing red or much less and how many times, where did you apply the heat (top - side) did it do any damage to the valve or anything else......
  13. Tobacco Road GT14

    That be what I am doing …. 10-4 on the snapping off the "A" shaft...…..
  14. Tobacco Road GT14

    The short "T" handle shown is the way I got it..... as I stated since it was so short I did grind a tiny bit off so that I could get a socket on the lock collar... but basically this is the condition it was in as I got it…. my thought here was to lengthen it when and if I ever get it freed-up.. and also as stated perhaps an old slotted socket over it so I can rock it ….. but when I tell you it's stuck ….. I mean it's stuck!
  15. Tobacco Road GT14

    Thanks for the reply Dave, my situation is that the Hydro Gear Transmission is STILL IN the Tractor I have the Locking Collar free but have no way ( I don't think) to now put sufficient tork on the valve to get it to come out..... I will continue to soak it for a while ….. was thinking about taking an old socket cutting a slot in it and trying to use this to see if I can get some movement...…… worse scenario here would be to damage this or not be able to get it back into the DRIVE mode..... If I am missing anything let me know any other suggestions appreciated.