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daveoman1966

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About daveoman1966

  • Rank
    Dave L
  • Birthday 01/24/1949

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    Bronco 14, C-160 Auto, 520-H (1997)
  • favoritemodel
    BRONCO 14

Profile Information

  • Location
    16433 n/w PA (80m NORTH of PGH)
  • Occupation
    Retired Bean-counter
  • Interests
    Sofa, TV, Remote, cold beer in hand... IN THAT ORDER

Recent Profile Visitors

3,744 profile views
  1. D160 lift cylinders and pump pressure

    Did you get this CHARGE PUMP HOUSING mounted correctly. It is possible to mount it 180 degree out of phase....backwards. If you did not ...or don't remember... open the pump to make sure.
  2. large black mule drive knob?

    It is part # 101851 fopr about $10 on line. get the 35 cent roll pin too.
  3. Tach-O-Matic on a ‘69 charger?

    MULE DRIVE UPGRADE DETAIL: Step-by-Step 1) Pull the hinge pin(s) and remove the hood 2) Jack or lift the front end. 3) Rest frame onto a stable block at a comfortable height to drill the hood hinge plate. (you don’t need to remove the front axle as I did in these pics….) 4) Locate a wood block about 5"L x 2"W x 1/2"T) and fit it between the front hitch and hood hinge plate 5) Center the front hitch over the ¾” axle pin and C-clamp it, pinching the wood. 6) With a 3/8" drill bit, drill thru the wood block at the 3 front hitch holes... this will leave centering marks on the hood hinge plate for final drilling. (as circled in pic) 7) Undo the C-clamp(s) and remove the front hitch and wood block. 8) Using a 1/8" drill bit, drill 3 pilot holes at the marks left on the hood hinge plate 9) Open up these 3 holes with the 3/8" drill bit. 10) Attach the front hitch to frame plate, using 3 bolts and large nuts and washers as needed as spacers to keep the hitch vertical. 11) Tighten 3 bolts
  4. '73 automatic 12 brakes

    here is the 'parking brake' (parking pawl') and it is inside the trans case. When you pull UP on the engagement lever, this pawl engages a gear that STOPS all motion in the gears...preventing the tractor from moving at all. Howver, DO NOT EVER pull up the engagement lever when the tractor is in motion. You will destroy internal gears and...whats worse... chip off fragments that get into the hyro pump that runis brass internal parts....whjich leads to loss of power.
  5. Throttle cable c160

    I can put a good used one in your mailbox. Sending PM with details...
  6. Help hydro barely moving

    The charts tell me your Sundstrand power unit is model 90-1140. When you've exhausted all the above suggestions / guidance, it is likely that the Hydro pump and motor have worn out. I have a rebuilt one...PUMP AND MOTOR on the shelf and ready to send. my email is: daveoman@windstream.net
  7. PTO Belt Size

    Go to this website.... save it too; Just enter your belt part #, then follow thru to get the size. http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/belts/ I use this all the time...great place.
  8. Wanted 42 " good condition snow plow

    I have just the front dozer blade...with cutting edge bar.... located in n/w PA. Trying to find pics of it. $50...
  9. D200 trans axle

    Since you have to take the trans apart anyway, and once you have the transmission COMPLETELY separated from the tractor, you can split the cases apart by removing the 5 or 6 bolts holding it together. Spread it apart several inches , then reach in ...with long wrenches....and remove the 4 differential bolts, letting the diff come apart too. Then you'll have each trans side, wtih axle in it. The axle will slide right out, then you can put it in a hyd press to gt the axle hub off. This is a WHOLE LOT easier than fighting to get the hubs off, then separate the trans cases.
  10. D200 trans axle

    Are you sure the transaxle needs rebuild, or is it the hydro pump and motor systems that needs repair. Can you describe your problems with the D-200 .....what is wrong with it?
  11. How to get stud out?

    First, buy the penetrant oil named FREE-ALL. Kinday pricey, but works well. Spray generously onto threads and let soak a couple hours...spray again if wanted.. 2nd...use a pair of LOCKING vise grip pliers on the short stub, as close as possible to the crankshaft. LOCK THE PLIERS as TIGHT AS POSSIBLE. Then, give the locked-on pliers a WHACK to 'impact' the stud, hoping to break it loose. If that fails, try again, but this time...USE A HOT WRENCH to heat up the END of the crankshaft...thjen whack the pliers again. (You should wrap a wet rag around the crankshaft up against the block to spare the bearing and seal from heat.) If all that fails, cut the bolt off flush and drill a 5/6-3/8 hole in the center of it...at least 1" deep. Then get the EZ-outs ready and try that.
  12. Deck idler pulley ?

    How does $57 bux for BOTH of them sound.(25 EACH)..SHIPPED... used, of course, but not abused.... here is a pic of one of them. #112791
  13. Ball Bearing and Belt Help

    Is this you deck spindle...item 21 ...it is part # 108849 and I have a good one in my hand that I can put in your mailbox for $47... with NEW keyway and top Grease Zerk.
  14. unleaded gas

    I had the same problem...you'da thot someone planted corn in the carb bowl. I tried Stabil, but that only turned the green 'seeds' to brown. Ultimately I began using Seafoam and have not since had a problem. A better idea is to buy Ethanol Free gas, which I've also done. Even with that, I still use Seafoam cuz I like to 'over-kill' an issue.
  15. Gt14 Double pulley i.d.

    That is the 'Double-D' style Two-belt pulley used to run the rototiller on GT-14 Sundstrand Hydrogear Units 90-2062 or may a model 90- 2046...very similar. Larger dia pulley is for the tiller....small end goes onto the hydro pump.
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