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echoffmann

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About echoffmann

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Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1990 520-H 41-20OE01
    1995 416-H 73421
  • favoritemodel
    520H

Profile Information

  • Location
    Elysian, MN

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  1. Wheel Horse 416H

    Just kept an eye on eBay and came across a NOS listing for it.
  2. Wheel Horse 268H will not charge!?

    Gary and Wildman thank you! I did the light test like Gary said and no light from battery + to regulator body. Added a ground wire like you both stated and 13v at idle and 14.3v at high RPM! Now.......why is the idiot light still on?!?! My older horses have nice gauges where I can see the voltage, now I'll constantly wonder why it's still on. At least I know for now, it's charging again. Gary, that black wire tied to the purple is a cable to an external RPM gauge I have, it just wraps around one of the plug wires for a pulse.
  3. Wheel Horse 268H will not charge!?

    Well I'm even more stumped. I can take the new regulator and put it on my 416H....charges to 14v, on the 268H seems to do nothing. The old regulator from the 416H charges to 14v on that tractor, does nothing on the 268H. So both regulators work fine it seems. There is no ground wiring going to the regulator body on the 268H and is bolted to the plastic shroud. I thought i grounded to the carburetor solenoid as the purple wire pairs with a red wire at a connection, but I believe that energizes the solenoid to open it, not a ground. I hate to take it in but man, it has me stumped and nothing is molested, all stock (unlike the 520 which has a few work arounds in the wiring)! I replaced all the fuses, checked the fuse block and all is good.... 268H_elec_manual.pdf
  4. Wheel Horse 268H will not charge!?

    Hey Gary, I got 12.56 at the battery and 12.16 at the B+ regulator terminal. Battery was full on a tender and I unplugged it from that a few hours ago so it should be "settled". I do have a 90's era 520H and 416H with Onan motors....could I test with one of those regulators you think, or different versions? The new regulator I bought was not OEM, maybe that's the issue.... If it were bad though, wouldn't it read "0" volts? So in the diagram, it looks like the red from the switch goes directly to the battery but, it's actually in a wire loom paired with the red lead from the battery....connected to the starter. I'm guessing my theory was right that even though it's not on the battery post (but coming from 30amp fuse), it still sees the battery being on the same starter post, through the red power cable from battery to starter.
  5. Wheel Horse 416H

    Selling my 1995 Wheel Horse 416H. This spring I replaced the front wheel bearings and replaced the wire harness. Previous owner had it "butchered" and it wouldn't charge and the key didn't work. Everything is back to stock now with working key ignition and charging system, all new 9-pin main harness. Changed oil last fall and haven't mowed with it this year, thus the sale. The onan motor runs awesome, I have a 520 that smokes and this one does not, runs smooth. The hour meter quit working last summer and says 615 hours, might be 625 on there now. The one bad on this mower is the seat, well it's from 1995 and is cracked up.
  6. So, I have a 2001 268-H, 72087-210000269 that had the motor go out. I’ve since replaced the CV18S with a CV20S...changing the stator and flywheel over to keep stock wiring and charging. Everything is stock for wiring and all functions work great EXCEPT for charging?!?! Eventually the battery drains and it won’t start, just clicks. The battery icon dash light is on stating there is an issue with the charge circuit, I checked the regulator B+ terminal and it’s putting out 12.4v at idle and high speed. I believe it doesn’t ramp up to full charge unless it see’s a need to charge correct, so it’s not seeing the battery? Regulator is brand new. With key on: Battery - 12.4v Regulator - 12v Idle Battery - 12.78v Regulator - 12.4v High RPM Battery - 12.78v Regulator - 12.4v With the stator plug unplugged, testing across the two white wires it is 0.2 for resistance (good from what I read) and each one to ground is infinite, also good I believe. My meter doesn’t do DC (from what I can tell) but at idle, stator plug unplugged, I see 17 vAC at idle and 40 vAC at high RPM. What am I missing? Not the best at wire schematics but the demystification guide shows the purple wire going into the key from 25amp fuse(power from stator), then a red from the key going to starter post along with positive battery cable, I’m guessing thats where the charge is supposed to come from once started? It sure seems like the components check out, but still no charge, any ideas?
  7. Toro 268H won't start

    I have a 2001 268H that threw a rod on it's factory cv18S. I replaced it with a CV20S, swapping stator and flywheel and adding regulator for charging system. I didn't clean the carb and anxiously tried to start it and it ran rough and died. Took the carb off and cleaned everything with carb cleaner and air compressor....now it won't start at all!!!!! Fuel pump was checked and is pumping, the carb solenoid checks out and clicks, I don't know what to check now, any ideas? When it did run maybe float was stuck as it loaded up with fuel and soaked the air cleaner, now dry as a bone, cranks and cranks no fuel getting into carb it seems? All safety items seem to be working as it won't crank without brake on or sitting on mower. Side note....I tried the carb off of the CV18 and it ran, put the CV20 carb on and nothing. Swapped it again for the old CV18 and once again, no fuel at carb to run?!?!?!?
  8. 268H Engine Swap

    I have a 2001 Toro 268H that had a Kohler CV18S in it that threw a rod. I picked up a CV20S to replace it with. I'm used to my older 520 and 416 Onans, these Kohlers are foreign to me! I'm going to replace the starter as the donor uses an external solenoid, and the old one had it all on the starter, this way I can use the factory wiring with less issues. The bigger issue is that there is no external voltage regulator on this one, the 18 had one? There is a "cover" where the regulator would be and a two-wire black and yellow wire coming out the back of the motor, anyone have an idea what that is? Not sure how to complete the charge system on this swap.
  9. 1995 416H missing most electrical harness

    So I got it wired and running but not charging. The B+ terminal on rectifier reads 0, the one on my 520 reads 14.5v. Any leads on an aftermarket as new one is $120?
  10. 1995 416H missing most electrical harness

    Thanks for all the tips so far and attachments, I'll start with the wiring diagram and see what I have to work with. I like Cleats idea of starting with the basics, starting and charging then adding from there.
  11. I have a 1995 416H Model: 73421 / Ser: 5900214 that I picked up running. Sadly for whatever reason the electrical has been butchered and what was taken out was handed to me in an ice cream bucket. Previous owner stripped it down to hot-wiring the starter to a push button , that is ran by a toggle switch to turn main power on or off. Can I at a bare minimum get the charging feature back, right now I have to keep it on a tender? It’s a mess, I don’t know where to start. There are wires tagged “Relay 1” and “Relay 2” but I don’t see any relays, no clue where the fuse block should mount or relays, all the ends for the gauges or micro switches are gone. The 9 pin connector is still on the motor side. If anyone can send me photos of their wire harness by the cab showing connections and ends, that would be super helpful, or if anyone knows how to just get charging function added back I could live with that. I did pick up a wire harness from another year 416, Harness #116724-a (attached images)...though not the same part number as mine calls for, when I compare the drawings from the online microfiche, they are the same wire layout...maybe different wire color differences? Thanks!
  12. 520H Ignition Coil readings

    N3PUY you nailed it!!! I happened to have a test light on the coil when I bumped a wire and the light came on! Narrowed it down to a broken spade on the PTO switch on the PTO not making a solid connection. All other Ignition components checked out fine so I was getting baffled.
  13. 520H Ignition Coil readings

    Thanks for the input! I found a post about adding 12v to the + side of the coil then cranking to test and that worked, I have spark when coil is powered by an external source. So, the coil seems fine, now I guess off comes the shroud and start following wires.
  14. I'm having trouble getting my 1990 520H going after 3 good years, the Onan P220. Last mowing going up hill it started to sputter, lost power and died. Towed it back to the shop and got it running, idled fine still sputtered at high RPM, got to my spot and engaged the PTO and it killed. Replaced fuel pump and went to try it....no start. Looked like weak spark on the front cylinder and no spark for the rear. I found the specs for testing the coil and the primary is fine at 3.5ohm. When I go to test the secondary I get a reading of 21,670. The book says the high limit is 19,800, I'm wondering if this is enough to cause a bad coil and my problem or if I should be looking elsewhere? Coil is the 166-0820 Used a test light on the leads from the ignition module out of the stator and the light surged so I think that means that is alright.
  15. 1990 520H Hydro Change Procedure

    Awesome tips guys! I've usually lucked out with other forum topics (STV stuff) but this is great! I'm going to try rmaynard's trick with the bolt removal. I have the fender off already so much easier access to it from the top. Thanks to all who replied.
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