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About tbarnhart

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Wheel Horse Information

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  1. Green Thumb tiller help

    Do some looking for Tillsmith tillers. They seem to be the same machines.
  2. C-160 with a Briggs

    Not a tecumseh. I have one of those. Definitely a briggs. The tank appears to be a briggs tank as well. No pto, and you probably wouldn't want to put one on there without the proper thrust bearing setup to handle the side load. Wheel horse muffler. Engine appears to be a 11hp although you wouldn't know without the model number.
  3. New muffler

    Another reason for the stainless exhaust on modern cars. The government mandated emissions control warranty covers the exhaust system, and they would rather build it with better materials from the beginning, than to replace rusted out systems before the 80-100,000 mile warranty expires.
  4. New "shoes" for a horse

    I like mine OK, but I was replacing 8.50s. I think they make a great replacement for 8.50 turfs, and like you stated, don't tear up turf because they never spin. I have 95 lb. wheel weights in each wheel and can go about anywhere without digging a bit of grass.
  5. New muffler

    How about this one. I made this one from an old well pump housing, and a handicap shower bar. Its turned blue now from the heat, but I'm guessing it will last for a long time.
  6. New "shoes" for a horse

    I think those Nanco tires are the exact same as the Deestones. Those look exactly like the Deestones I have on mine. Even the lettering and molding on the side is exactly the same except where the brand is. Mine come out to about 22.5x9.5 as well, although I have mine on the 7in. rims.
  7. The problem with those cogged belts is exactly the same problem as steel roller chain-they won't twist. They will transmit a lot of torque, but the pulleys have to be held in exact rigid alignment. The problem Mark is dealing with is that the rear axle assembly on Bendy is the articulating section and the drive has to be able to run under load, but out of alignment. I'm not sure what to suggest, but I don't think a timing belt from an engine would stay on the pulleys at all.
  8. Repair fuel sender?

    Have at it. Your approach sounds like it would work, although that tiny wire they make those senders out of is a pain to repair. Like you said, you don't have much to lose. At our shop, we call it the "rotten egg theory", as in, "you can't ruin a rotten egg". If it's already no good, can't really make it much worse.
  9. Ouch. I feel your pain. We've all had times where we wish we could back up and do a few things over again. I responded to your message. I may have a few parts, if you would decide to fix it, and I could deliver to VA next month.
  10. Question for you guys with stacks

    Actually, the timing could probably be advanced a bit, but its just fine the way it is. The extreme exhaust heat and flame is from the air/fuel mixture not burning completely in the cylinder and continuing to burn out the exhaust. Advancing the timing will help initiate the burn sooner, but will also cause more kick-back on the starter. Another option we often don't think about is to use lower octane gas. High octane gas burns slower, and more of the potential power goes out the exhaust. We really don't need high octane gas in a 7:1 compression engine anyway, although 90 octane is the only ethanol-free available to me.
  11. My uncle had one, and I still have the carcass out behind my shop. He repowered it with a 18hp Briggs Vangaurd. It needs a hood, so if anyone has a good fiberglass hood for the '78-'79 C-161 twin, I'd love to get one. I still want to do a restore on it some day, but it needs a lot of work. As I understand the history, Wheel Horse wanted to introduce a signature model in '78 along with the introduction of the C-1x1 series. They went to Kohler for a larger engine than the 16 single on the 160-161. The only thing suitable that Kohler had at the time was the newly developed K-17. Wheel Horse wanted this tractor to stand out a bit as their first twin cyl. C-series and they previewed their upcoming (80>) styling with a Square blackhood. Those first blackhoods were fiberglass. Unfortunately for the Kohler fans, the durability of the earliest K17s was a problem, so WH turned to briggs to supply them with a 16hp twin. Hence, the proposed C-171 twin became a C-161 twin. Pretty much the same tractor as the regular C-161 except for the engine, hood, and the plastic fender pan.
  12. C-120 special?

    They made C-160s with Tecumsehs as well. As I have the story, there was a strike going on at Kohler, and engines were in short supply. Wheel Horse went to Tecumseh to get enough engines to keep production up. In '74, the C-120 Auto and 8-speed were available with the HH120 and the C-160 8-speed was available with the OH/HH 160 ohv engine. In '75 the C-120 auto and the C160 went back to all Kohler power and the C-120 8-speeds with the Tecumseh were given the C-120 Special labels. As you see in my picture, the front of the hood is raised up to clear the taller ohv engine. Unique hood hinges for the '74 C-160 with the Tecumseh.
  13. Tecumseh HH120

    That's certainly the best way, especially if the valve sealing surfaces are a bit worn anyway. If it's all really good, or the valve is already thin, I've built them up with a hard weld deposit and never had any problems. I'm not looking at it, so I'm just trying to put all the options out there. Want to keep a good Tecumseh going.
  14. Tecumseh HH120

    No, I don't know the length of the original parts, but your measurements would seem to make sense. 0.025 of lift on the decompression mechanism with a 0.020 valve clearance would leave approximately 0.005 of valve lift for decompression. That is probably enough to get a small compression reduction, but may not be as much as originally intended. I would see if I could get that valve clearance down to about 0.015. You may have to build up the end of the stem with weld or lightly grind the valve/seat to lower the valve in the block.
  15. What are the best lubricants?

    I use a heavy duty diesel oil which has a much higher level of anti-wear additives (zinc or some newer formulation). You can find a lot of different viscosities, but I've been running 15w40 like I run in the Dodge Cummins. The last I bought was a straight 30w. Going to use that next. Choose your brand, although Rotella is available at TSC.