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About ARK

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    Orangeville, ON,Canada
  1. 418 Sputters under Load

    Good ides, start using Seafoam in gas tank for a few tankfuls, check plug(s) for colour and gap, a little less than book states. Check gas lines if rubber, look for deterioration.
  2. Kohler series 2 hard starting

    Try installing a check valve in the gas line after cleaning the carb.
  3. 314-8 wont start

    All interlocks must be made. Check the ignition switch, then the stater relay, then the starter, but first verify the battery and its level and all wires and cables. AND ALL GROUNDS, CONNECTIONS.
  4. Mid-Atlantic Snow Storm!!!!!!!!

    Welcome to the world of Canada Hehhh! Lots of saddle time, lots of winter with the snow piled 5' high even after the municipality cut back the curbs. The 312-8 with a 4' blade keeps it clear. Now I have to learn to hook up the mower, good thing I rebuilt the mule drive. Keep on wishing…Spring will come but so will more snow, more cold.
  5. k161 over reving now!!!!!

    Question, did you have a tach set up to see RPM when adjusting carb?
  6. Charge battery with external charger, not the tractor. When fully charged, read terminal voltage…minimum 12.7, and do a battery electrolyte reading, should be 1.25-1.3 IF battery test correct, tie into tractor. Now, with a voltmeter on battery terminals and all hooked up, start the tractor with the electric starter, voltage while starting no lower than 10V, if good let warm up and while warming at about 1500 RPM, read voltage, should be higher that original reading after external charge. WOT, read voltage, should be maximum, 14.xx but less than 15V Test then respond with numbers
  7. Starter Bendix Hanging up

    Sounds like a teardown, clean, grease, while at it clean up commutator, grease end bearings, verify no canting during operation with load
  8. old horse stranded in the snow!

    From picture of stater apart, the commutator looks dirty. The commutator bars must be higher than the insulation. The black is usually carbon dust which in conductive and should be cleaned. Pull the starter out, and bench it take pictures to help. Clean everything, bearings, armature, commutator, springs, metal. Undercut the commutator with a broken hacksaw blade. Clean examine and grease, if bearings are rough, grease or replace. Testing a series wound motor can not be done without a load on that motor equivalent to a cold engine. Applying power to an unloaded series wound motor only indicates it turns, works with low amps. In the tractor that motor draws up to 3x, 300% of its amps. If alignment with bearings is loose or crooked it will jam. Check out put shaft rotate it be certain it rotates in a circle, wobbling is no good, mechanical rough spots are bad. After freeing up the flywheel a rebuild may help because if left it will let you down later, take too much power, burn out things like wires, cables, relay, battery and starter motor. If over your abilities have it checked out at as motor rewind shop.
  9. Things electrical 12 V DC battery and alternator charging things and devices that may help you to understand what takes place with the electrical parts of your wheeled vehicle. This will be as non-technical as I can get it. First off, a wet battery is a storage tank, not a producer of current, voltage, power. In today’s world wet acid batteries can be charged, discharged, hold that charge or be completely useless when dead. The state of charge is dependent on the complete system. The system includes: the battery, the alternator (AC Generator), starter, relay, the wires, cables, terminations, devices, ground and you. Battery---a wet cell battery consisting of 6 wet cells, walls, rigid container, cell covers, electrolyte, terminations and lead in compound form, so the electrolyte interacts with the lead portion of the compound. The bigger the battery the more power is stored, delivered and taken on. The electrolyte (1.25-1.3 S.G.) is a liquid conductor, tested with a hydrometer measuring specific gravity (S.G.) as compared to pure water (1 S.G.). Water freezes at 0C, 32F, electrolyte with a full charge is good to about -40 C, F at least. Battery must be clean, secure with terminations clean and tight. The electrolyte level must be maintained at the proper level and at a S.G. that allows power to come in and go out. Alternator---as used in vehicles is a machine that rotates and this rotation cuts lines of magnetic force from permanent magnets or electromagnets. The more magnets, the slower the RPM, THE MORE LINES OF FORCE ARE CUT, the more power. Alternators can use carbon brushes to transport the generated current to the end use. Cars, trucks and tractors have their end use as the battery. The primary purpose of the alternator is to keep the battery charged. But alternators produce AC (Alternating Current) not DC (Direct Current). Since AC and DC react differently and the battery is DC this rotational AC current must be changed from AC to DC and this is done by the rectifier set (rectifier). The rectifier set in newer equipment is a 3-phase device that is 3 lines of power, all forming into DC current to feed the battery. A single phase set up would have but 1 power line. A regulator if used may be part of the rectifier or alternator and is used to keep the highest voltage around 15 V. As a note there are many types of regulators but they are doing the same job. Wires and cables---are the roadways that carry the DC current to and from the battery and to and from ground and to and from all electrical devices. When new the wires and cables are clean but age makes them old, dirty, corroded or loss of insulation. Time makes it important to maintain these wires or cables. Cables are bigger than wires so they can carry a greater amount of current. Motor starter---the biggest consumer of energy because it takes a lot of amps to start a cold internal combustion engine. To get power to the starter motor which usually is a series wound DC motor that has the ability of using 300% of normal power to produce a great deal of spinning torque, is the starter relay. It is a contactor that can handle all the current that the starter motor needs. Since it operates at the same current as the starter motor, it should be as robust as the starter motor. Also it is these 2 things that take the most current, but the starter contactor, relay, and solenoid, (terminology) does not consume this power. The starter contactor directs all the power that the battery holds and the starter motor needs and releases this power when the auxiliary starting switch is turned on (key ignition). The starter contactor has smaller control wire(s) to turn on/off the contactor and in many cases to monitor. Depending on how it is wired and /or designed there could be 1 or more control wires. Control wires are small compared to power wires because of the amount of current. Often the mounting bolts are grounded and used as the return, so it looks as if only 1 wire is used. Terminations---joints of wires, cables, battery, starter. Every time a wire or cable is used that wire or cable must be joined to the device or terminated. The termination varies with size via the wire size, the device size and the amount of current and time. Battery terminals get dirty, corroded, rusty, loose, covered with atmosphere. All these things make it difficult for electrons to move. Clean tight terminations are needed and it takes intervention by you. Every joint over time will become bad and needs to be opened, cleaned and then put back together. You---are needed to make all maintenance whether you do it yourself or have somebody else do the work. Without PM (Preventive Maintenance) things electrical and mechanical break down. Usually mechanical breaks sooner and more frequent than electrical. Since electrical things break down in stages a conductor can become a semi-conductor and then an insulator, which is one of the reasons for gremlins. Ground is a pathway to save on wires and is a common carrier for all 12V –(Neg) ground systems. Because most grounds are the steel frameworks, joining steel with copper, use of dissimilar metals, cause bad interactions with the joint over time and must be maintained. This applies to every joint that is a ground, even if bolts, nuts, washers. The best ground joint is a weld. By the way there are compounds to help with conductivity with dissimilar metals, but maintenance is still needed. When things are built brand new, manufacturers use dielectric grease properly to seal electrical joints. These joints will last longer than warranty time, but as time moves on everything has a lifespan. When that time is over things electrical start to break down and need PM. If you use dielectric grease learn how to apply it. Applied incorrectly will cause greater problems, remember that it is a non conductor. To troubleshoot electrical problems, tools are needed to see and verify electron movement. Get a multi-meter (many meters in one) and learn the basic laws that govern DC electricity and learn how to use that meter. Learn to be safe. Some basic numbers: A 12 V wet lead acid battery has a normal range from 10-15 VDC A 12 V battery reading at 9V is dying A 12 V battery at higher than 15V is over charged Alternators deliver a range of voltage with RPM, LOAD, belt tension, weak field, worn brushes, dirty armature or commutator, worn bearings or loose magnets. Simple test with machine running and alternator spinning higher than mid range and battery hooked up all devices off except engine, battery reading at 13-15 VDC. Engine off all dead but charged battery at least 12.6-12.9 Remember battery voltage has a range. Bad voltage less than 10V Checking the starter amp draw, try the voltage drop no less than 10 V Exact voltage is hard to give because of battery age, condition, all internal conditions of all devices, but with PM on a regular basis the answers become clearer and electrical phantoms are non-existent. Always start to check the electrical system with a fully charged battery at float voltage. Formulae: E=I x R, voltage = current x resistance Transpose the formula to get all 3 equations There is a circle chart on Google with more formulae that may assist you.
  10. Battery Problem

    Genehorse, since you have a group of tractors, besides a multi-meter, a battery hydrometer tester about $10 and a terminal wire brush that fits over round battery terminals along with contact cleaner are a few things that might be a must have. Learn how to use that meter. Voltage, Resistance Ohms, and amps are different elements of electricity. They are all intertwined and knowing the relationships can help you a whole lot. Learn the basic relationship of Ohm's Law and of all its forms. Have fun!
  11. Determining if a Starter is Bad?

    Just a thought, while you have the starter out, look at the armature and the segmented copper commutator. The commutator MUST be separated by insulation between the bars of copper and MUST be lower than the copper face. If not take a shortened hack saw blade, you may have to grind the blade to fit between the bars, then cut out some insulation to lower it. Check the armature for hot spots. Re-grease bearings and test for sloppy misaligned fit. The brushes should be checked for fitment and face angle to fit the rotation of the commutator. Bench test with a load on the motor. Also look at the field coils and magnet faces. The coils should be clean, no loose wires or copper showing ( varnish insulation should be in tack. Magnet faces , no marks, no hits, evenly gapped and insulation paper if any, no rips, tears or wear.
  12. can a battery be too large?

    Do you have a 15A charger built in the motor? What Amp hour capacity is the battery? Loading, lights, ignition, winch and starter…what is total amperage discharge at the worst? How long will the tractor engine run over 2500 RPM? With answers to these questions: 1 large battery or A couple batteries toggled/alternated The battery is a storage tank that fills and empties as needed, but emptying is a fact of a lot of electrons, or current being removed and all this current that leaves quickly can only be made up by the 15 A charge system with long use. e.g.. A 100A start will take time to be made up at 15 A but the rest of the tractor lights, ignition and now a winch will use part of that 15 A charge. You will need a battery system with a big reserve capacity the CCA will remain the same. Storage capacity will have to be a lot bigger than stock. Have you space to install a bigger capacity battery? Or 2 batteries.? 2 batteries alternating will also provide what you need, but the alternation should be monitored and automatic as with DC voltage changing over one to the other and back. Entails control, but a single large battery with lots of reserve power, enough CCA and a great storage capacity will do, but you may have to increase the holding capacity, the cable capacity and improve the terminations. Just my thoughts!
  13. Dozer Blade Adjustment

    When I installed my plow I had the plow blade sitting on a level surface and the A frame sitting on 4 x4 at the rear. Brackets installed and from the book closer to the right with a black mark with the measurement. Snug only the rear brackets until the plow rear is locked in, the ears locked and lubricated. Remove all wood spacers, install index arm, install metal spacer for lifting. Raise and lower the blade and check for level, raise and lube the A frame. If all is square the blade lifts and rides square. Polish the blade surface for snow removal and oil the steel wear bar. If blade is off square loosen rear clamps slightly then with a crow bar or stick counter twist the A frame at front gently, snug rear brackets and check level. Tighten rear clamps when square/level Try the plow out
  14. Battery life can be enhanced with a trickle charger (about 2A ) but if used extensively the trickle charge itself will sulphate the battery. This happens when the H2SO4 loses a charged particle and becomes an insulator rather than a conductor. The electrolyte (liquid conductor) mixes with both conductor and insulator thus reducing the effectiveness of the charge. As the trickle charge continues the spectrum of the insulator grows and starts to take over and in time you have a dying then dead battery. Auto style batteries take on and deliver huge amounts of electrons and a lead acid battery can be considered dead at 10 V. The industry also has and uses deep cell batteries. Deep cell technology is different than auto technology but the deep cell knowledge is very helpful to the auto section. Keep your tractor or auto battery fully charged with a trickle charger, yes. But every so often charge that battery with 10A or more then trickle. Most importantly about 2x or 3x a year equalize that battery. By charging at a higher current 50A for a short time. The battery will get warm and the electrolyte will bubble as it accepts many amperes. For the first time do this for a minute, feel the battery for heat. Test the electrolyte with a temperature battery hydrometer ($10), then test the open circuit battery for terminal voltage. The VDC will go up, let sit for an hour and retest. A good battery at any temperature after a complete charge to float voltage should read at least 12.7 VDC. Readings will be at least 13 VDC and never higher than 15 VDC. Battery equalizing can be done more often, but testing the wet acid battery with a hydrometer is a must along with a DC voltmeter. It is vital to learn how these tools work and it is vital to use them. Too much over charging equalization is bad. Hydrogen gas is formed, sparks are possible, over heating is able to be done and all this can produce an explosion. Remember that the battery is an enclosed container whether the cells are open or not and the battery is a time bomb. So wear protective gear, eye glasses and when equalizing a battery remove it from the vehicle, cover with a leather blanket and never leave the equalized battery alone. Since they are small 20-50 AHr time the equalization period 1 minute, 90 seconds then stop, feel, smell, look and test. It takes time and a lot of safety precautions, no kids, no pets, no open lights, BE PRUDENT, BE SAFE. BE DILIGENT If you decide to do this PITA work it will pay off with a good battery for about 10 years. Also at the same time clean, secure, clean again the battery itself, the container, the wires, the cables, the connections, test the starter and the starter relay (contactor). The starter motor must be tested under an equivalent load to the ICE, internal combustion engine. Cold destroys the ampacity of a battery, the colder the smaller the battery. In very cold -40 FC, the battery is 50-60% less than at 21C or room temp. With electrolyte being closer to water or a specific gravity of 1 it freezes, at 1.25-1.3 the battery cell is good, won't freeze up. Keep your battery clean connection tight and electrolyte as an acid and top up your wet battery with pure water, distilled or RO filtered water. And if in the winter you top up your battery make sure you mix that pure water with the battery acid or it may freeze.
  15. idle with choke on?

    Visually inspect the choke plate for full closing while the choke handle is pulled out, then for full open when choke off.