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About 04fxdwgi

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    Mahopac, NY
  1. Onan 20hp

    The engine is an Onan P220G-I/10955 I have a real good one in my 520H that purrs like a kitten and uses no oil and makes no noises. PLUS a fresh 100% rebuilt complete (w/ carb, chrome air cleaner, fuel pump and muffler) with everything and zero hours on it sitting in the garage on a stand. Figure if I have a spare, the one in the machine will never crap out. Seen used ones go for $500 to up to $1K. No telling what my "new" one is worth.
  2. 520-H

    Thanks, but cant hardly read the info. Is the plug gap .025 ? seems close. The ones I took out was .030 ish with a very skinny/thin post. always had the single cyclinders. I hope straight 30 wt oil is ok to run in these Onan's, at least thats what I put in my singles. Gap is .025......
  3. 520-H

    Engine oil replacement filters (I wouldn't use the FRAM, myself) Engine Oil filter Group7 V195 Purolator L20195 Delco PF13 FRAM PH3600 Wix 51516
  4. 520-H

    1.7 qts Attached Image
  5. Who's Great Idea Was This?

    When I had my manifold off, I installed a heli-coil in the manifold and added a stud with lock-tite, then just used a nut to hold the carb on. Very easy to do, if manifold is already off. I guess Onan didn't do it this way because of the 2 piece manifold
  6. Isolator Rubbers

    How about drilling out hockey pucks? Works great when doing lift kits...
  7. New 520H

    Agree 100% that it's not solenoid. Tried to include diagram, but file is too big. I'll send via e-mail if you contact me for it.
  8. Onan 16hp problems

    Jesse, Sounds like you may be on right track. That engine will easily run on 1 cylinder if it was rings / valves / plug / wire on one slug. Since both are weak or non existant, then I would surely lean towards engine timing and one may be cooler than the other only because that slug is just worse shape. Also, check for Vacuum leaks. A bad one may do what you are seeing.
  9. ONAN 20HP Problems

    No one has mentioned the condenser (capacitor). A bad one will prevent firing..... I would lean toward the module or the condenser if everything else checks good. If 12 vdc is applied at the B+ on the ignition coil and she won't run, then I would look at module or condenser first. PS. When unit runs for a while and quits, then won't restart till it's cooled off, then 99% of the time it's the module that is about to completely let go. Something in the module electronics is heat sensitive and is just waiting to completely fail.
  10. 60" deck rollers

    Anyone know what the actual outside diameter of a new nose roller is? :notworthy:
  11. Multimeters

    Use the digital in conjunction with the good old test light. For all that already know how and can attest, the "voltage drop" method of testing with the test light is by far the fastest and easiest method of test. Gets you in the ball park where the digital can pinpoint the problem. Can test nearly any 12 VDC problem with a light that you can test with a meter, as long as electronics aren't involved / looking for certain "levels" of voltage. Only draw back to the digital is the extremely high impedence of the meter which, at times, may mask a problem, where the test light will let the probelms "shine through". As I said, use both on the simple 12 VDC circuits and your good to go. A very good test light is sometimes as much money as a cheap digital meter. The best test lights have a nice sharp probe to pierce insulation to get to the copper without slipping and testing for voltage 1/4 inch beneath your skin.
  12. oil pressure switch jump?

    Correct ..... Bad solenoid........IF no 12 VDC comes out of it going to the starter. If 12 VDC comes come out of it and starter dosen't crank.......... Bad starter motor Pick up a cheap Ford solenoid at Pep Boys to test if you suspect the solenoid..
  13. oil pressure switch jump?

    I have all the electrical diagrams if you need em. Mine is a '93 520H also Have an e-mail address? File too big for here.
  14. oil pressure switch jump?

    Kevin, Looking at the diagram for your 518H, you are correct in stating the hour meter works with only ignition switch in on position, but I only see your oil pressure switch going to "idiot light", since there is only one lead on your switch, not two, according to the Toro / Wheelhorse documentation. Bill