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About bartl

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Wheel Horse Information

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    West Rutland, Vermont, USA
  1. Kohler K241 crankshaft

    Make sure you get the RIGHT crank. Just because it came out of a K241 and has the right sized PTO end doesn't mean it will fit. I was at a loss for a crank and got one that WAS originally from a K241 on a WH tractor but when I went to put the flywheel on it the flywheel hit the bearing plate without being near tight. Turned out the flywheel end was 1/2" shorter BEFORE the taper. I ended up turning 1/2" off the back side of the flywheel and adding 1/2" spacers to the fan side to correctly align the starter/generator pulley. I'm thinking the flywheel I got was from a later application with a geared starter.
  2. Tax return wheel horse?

    I might be tempted to sell my '69 Charger 10. I've been using it to plow snow this Winter but it's getting a little deep so I've been using the snowblower. I'll keep the plow since it doesn't really "fit" anyway since it's made for a short frame tractor. I DO have a snowblower in pieces that could go with it. It's an old pix. Now has a Kohler K241 on it, not the Tecumseh.
  3. Tecumseh solid state ingition

    I've "kinda" converted my HH100 from Solid State. I made a bracket to replace the SSI unit that mounts a magnetic proximity sensor and replaced the 2 pins with rare earth magnets. Installed a GM 4-pin ignition module to trigger a GM coil. Engine starts right up and idles great. Loses spark when rpms increased. Going to experiment with replacing the pins with plain ferrous ones and going to an NPN transistorized proximity sensor and a Chrysler electronic ignition module. I think that the magnetic proximity sensor I'm using needs more dwell than can be generated at higher speeds and that the GM module needs more dwell to generate a good spark than can be delivered. I tried both sensors with the GM module.
  4. Took starter apart... chunks fell out

    Sixty bucks from Amazon with free shipping. http://www.amazon.com/Starter-Deere-Kohler-45-098-07-45-098-09/dp/B00261WDKG
  5. A look inside a 10hp Chinese Diesel

    I'm curious since this swap looks interesting..... most gasoline engines are designed to run at around 3,600 rpm to drive the tractor and accessories. What is the rpm range of the diesel and do you have to change the PTO sheave diameter to accommodate this?
  6. Ran into the same problem with the mechanical pump on my Tecumseh, which is virtually identical to the Kohler pump except for the pump lever. Found a place that had a used pump from a Wisconsin...... twenty bucks later I just swapped the head with the poppet valves in it and back in business. I'm thinking about taking the old head, drilling out the bottom so I can replace the poppets with some screw-in check valves, and sealing the holes with welch plugs..... The other option I was thinking of was removing the poppets altogether and using some 1/8npt in-line check valves on the inlet and outlet.
  7. fuel leak

    Make sure the fiber or rubber washer/gasket at the center of the bowl is on the INSIDE, between the bowl and the carburetor body, not on the outside.
  8. motor wont shut off

    If it's got a flywheel magneto ignition (no points, magnet on flywheel, induction coil mounted beside) then your ignition switch is not grounding the magneto wire when "Off". If it's got battery ignition with points then the ignition switch is not interrupting the current from the points to the coil when "Off".
  9. lawn ranger "electric" ???

    Because they had an electric PTO?
  10. Used Tractor vs. Used Parts Business

    Some people may not agree with me, but that's what life is all about. First question is "What do you want to do in life?". If it's to start and run a successful tractor repair/parts operation, maybe even an association with a national brand later on down the road, then skip college and get right to it. That's right, skip college. Why get a degree unless you are going to use that degree to make money? Some people will say that a college degree is a necessity. If you're going to enter a field that requires that type of education then that is sound advice. If you're going to be an entrepreneur that may not be true. I passed on a FREE college education 40 years ago because I was undecided on what I wanted to do in life. Within 12 years I was running my own business. Had I chosen college I would have lost 4 years head start and wasted money getting an education in a field I would not be entering. If things don't work out, you can always delay college. If you end up going you may find out that delay made you rethink your goals.
  11. I don't know whether you can consider them "necessary", or even "desired", but here are a couple things I did during the rebuild of my Charger10.... - I replaced some of the "low strain" bushings with nylon ones (like the seat pan pivot) and used clevis pins instead of bolts and nylocks for the seat pan pivot as well, to facilitate removal for service, as needed. I also replaced the dash and console retaining screws with stainless socket head cap screws. - In the dash where a switch would normally go for an electric PTO clutch, I installed a fuse holder and 15a fuse for the lighting and accessories. - I installed a 4-post starter relay (solenoid) under the fuel tank pan vs. the original non-solenoid-through-the-ignition-switch starter wiring. - I ran the wiring for the headlamps beside the magneto ground wire and enclosed them in plastic conduit instead of along the frame. - I used fusible link from the battery+ to the ignition switch "B" terminal for additional protection. - I had a missing rear lift tube so I cut down a rigid toilet supply line, which has a nice radiused end on it, and fits perfectly in the indent in the bottom of the tool box. - I replaced the torn up seat with a high back unit I found on eBay that not only has a nice drain in it but has 2 slides with a locking lever to make quick operator adjustments. The slides are adjustable so no new holes needed to be drilled. - I replaced the OE-style Tecumseh round muffler with a small 1" ID unit probably intended for a Farmall Cub or the like with a rain cap. I figure why not send the noise and fumes over my head... It's still a work-in-progress......I'd like to find a suitable trio of gauges....tachometer, voltmeter and hourmeter.
  12. One of the BEST rust penetrants I have ever used is a homemade 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF.
  13. I got a set of Terry's decals for my Charger 10 and they're great! What I DON'T have, though, are the decals that were attached to the PTO lever bracket that showed the PTO detents and below that one was a decal about hydrostatic transmission fluid... Anybody know if these are reproduced?