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About holler1

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Wheel Horse Information

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    Northern WV
  1. Gutter cleaning accident

    Ekennel, best wishes to your son for a speedy recovery. I'm relatively new to the forum, but this struck me as a very timely topic. Our house is shingled and has a fairly low pitch, but cleaning gutters every year is something i dislike. I used to do them by hand from a ladder, but I've been using a leaf blower on the roof for several years. I'm pretty convinced that almost anything is safer than trying to reach sideways from the ladder. I use a rope tied off to a tree across the roof. I tie it to my belt and readjust it often so it wont let me get to the edge. After reading this, I'm thinking i will get a rock climber harness and a climber's rope for this job. Thanks to all who commented.
  2. Snow blower coatings

  3. Snow blower coatings

    AMC rules mentioned POR15. I painted the lower part of my 36" RD deck with POR15 to stop the rust, but it seems to be very effective at shedding grass. I'll attach a picture if i can. I've been mowing with it all summer. I took it off and replaced it with a newer deck. When i turned it over, there was no grass stuck underneath- none.
  4. Mulching blades any good?

    I have the same axperience as rmaynard and Malmac with mulching blades on a 36" RD deck. I made a baffle for the rear to keep grass from going out. I havent tried it on leaves yet but will this fall. I usually use a 2 wheel TORO self propelled mulcher and it works great to reduce leaf volume.
  5. This is an old thread but still useful. I have a 308-8 with a 36" RD deck. I posted an earlier thread with my repairs on the deck. I ordered and installed the Gator blades as mwagner described, old blades on the bottom and Gator blades on top at 90 degrees to the old blades. I've only used this setup on short grass so far, but it seems to work well and generate a lot less clippings. I haven't blocked off the back discharge port at this point. I'll post a few pictures if possible. One change that I found when ordering the blades - the longer blade is for a Toro mower and has a 3/4 center hole. The two shorter blades are a for a different brand mower with the "double D" hole that I had to file out to 3/4 round.
  6. Without looking it up again, I'm pretty sure the B series does use a vertical shaft engine. The C series and the 308, 310, etc series are both horizontal shaft. I had a bad mower deck on my 308 and when I was looking for one I found the B series decks have different supports and drive pulleys. I found a B series deck on fleabay and was going to just use the shell, but was outbid by 1 cent. Good luck finding one. I finally gave up and repaired some large holes in mine - another post. Good used decks appear to be in short supply at least in this region. By the way, there is a "master list" of which attachments fit which tractors. I think it's somewhere on the forum but I'm attaching it for convenience.wheel horse attachments AA_WH_Interchange_1955-_00 (1).pdf.
  7. Repairing 36" RD Deck

    Tankman, Thanks for the ideas and info. I'll bet that stainless deck outlasts us all. I want to try the drilling a hole in the deck to the other plate and welding method. Probably will try it after I do a little more welding. Thanks also to everyone who posted ideas. I like the forum and probably will participate. I'm not a Wheel Horse collector (yet). I wanted a reliable tractor/mower, was reading up on the brand and found a local 308 fairly cheap. I only have 1.5 acres to mow, so can't really use a large tractor or justify a new machine. I've mostly used a self propelled (walking) Toro mulcher up til now; it just takes a little long. Just to wrap up this thread for now, I'm going to put up a few more pictures. I'm a little behind on mowing, so I'm planning to add the front roller bracket sometime this fall. I finished up with filling and painting last night. I didn't use fill on the front hole but it is patched pretty well with metal. I wanted to leave the fill off because I want to mount a roller bracket metal to metal sometime later. Here are the pictures. The first one shows the fiberglass filler patches and areas where I added POR15 (a good product to prevent rust), the second and third show a primer coat; the next is the GM bright red paint. I'm not the best sander in the world - not enough patience. The next is the bottom with metal patches and POR15. The large patch has POR15 on all sides, the smaller patch is galvanized metal with POR15 on the bottom. The blades are new. The last picture is the deck installed. I adjusted the front to sit about 3/4" higher than the rear to compensate for not having the front roller. I tried it out today and it works pretty well with not a lot of scarfing. Any questions, please post.
  8. Repairing 36" RD Deck

    I've been wanting to learn to weld for for some time, and this job was a good excuse. I got an 80 amp inverter stick welder from Harbor Freight a week or so ago. It should be OK for sheetmetal work. I had a lot of trouble holding the stick close enough but not so close it sticks. Getting a little better. Learning a new skill at my age (three score ++) goes a little slow. Lab-Metal sounds like a good product. I wanted to get the deck done this week if possible, so I went ahead and used some Bondo fiberglass reinforced body filler left over from a job on my pickup truck. The fiberglass filler is pretty strong and adheres well, although it's a little difficult to get smooth. I'll post some more pictures in a day or two.
  9. Repairing 36" RD Deck

    I want to fabricate a mount for the front roller on this 36 RD deck. Does anyone know how far below the bottom front of the deck the roller bottom is supposed to sit? From looking at pictures, it looks like a couple of inches.
  10. Repairing 36" RD Deck

    JamesBe1, Thanks very much. I'm going to do what you suggest. I'm going to remove the metal patches and treat the backs with POR15, then I think I'll put a flexible sealer in between the patches and the old deck, I'm thinking maybe RTV or a silicone caulk. Then I may add some automotive patch material on the outside depressions to make it smoother for painting. I also plan to change the bolts to come from below and put the nuts outside- then cut off the excess bolts outside. Here are couple of pictures of what I did yesterday. The new front pieces are 16 gauge weld steel, the rear left piece is thinner galvanized steel, the vertical black separator pieces are about 22 gauge steel already painted with POR15. I made three very rough welds on the two new front pieces (my first ever) - my apologies to real welders. I don't think I am capable of welding new and old metal together at this point. I haven't figured out how to attach the front roller yet.
  11. Repairing 36" RD Deck

    Rather than just apply external patches as the previous owner did, I want to strengthen the deck so I can re-mount a front roller if possible. However, I am not a welder, so I want to bolt on the new sections. I just bought a small welder and plan to try to do a little welding to strengthen the fix if possible, but I'm going to bolt on the sections in case my welding doesn't work. I cleaned off as much rust as possible with a wire wheel, and applied POR15 rustproofing to most of the bed. I'm adding a large patch of 16 gauge steel underneath the upper front and a long narrow 16 gauge section across the front on the inside. Here are a few pictures of those fixes. I haven't finished putting bolts into the new sections yet. I would like to weld together the two front sections at the seam, and maybe weld the new and old sections at the top front if possible before mounting the new roller. I'll also try to weld on new separators between the cutter sections. I have a new set of blades, a new idler pulley and a roller (but will have to fabricate a roller mount).
  12. I bought my first Wheel Horse a few weeks ago - a 308-8. It runs well and mows pretty well but the mower deck (36" RD 05-36MR04 or at least in that family, no model number on it) is rusty, has several patches and is missing the front roller and mount. There is a hole where the mount should be. It mows OK as long as I keep the height adjuster in the 3rd slot or higher. It scarfs otherwise. I have not been able to find an 05-36MR04 deck or compatible shell for sale within reasonable distance. I did try for one on ebay but lost the auction - it was 300 miles away anyway. So I decided to try to repair the old deck and thought I would post some pictures as I go. Maybe it will be useful to someone else, or someone will have tips for me. I removed the deck from the tractor and took off the mounting hardware and belts. The pulleys and bearings seem OK, except for the idler pulley which is stuck. The deck has large holes on the top front and the front where the roller was mounted. Also the vertical pieces that separate the cutter sections are gone. The first two pictures show what the deck looked like when I got it cleaned up a little. There is a third bad section on the left rear (thin metal patch in the picture). The metal seems pretty solid where the pulley mounts and idler are. However, the metal is weak around the holes where the support hardware is mounted.
  13. Dave, Thanks. That's what I was hoping. I'm going to try it. Is there any reason to swap out the spindles and pulleys on the sides, if they are in good shape? I may have some more questions after I get the other deck.
  14. I bought my first Wheelhorse tractor last weekend - a 308-8, can't read the longer model number. It has a sticker but it is totally faded. I really like it so far; the Kohler engine sounds great, starts and runs well, and seems plenty strong for my application (mowing 1.5 acres). Overall it is in good shape. I'll post a picture if possible. It mows pretty well but the mower deck (36" RD 05-36MR04 or at least in that family, no model number on it) is rusty, has several patches and is missing the front roller and mount. There is a hole where the mount should be. It mows OK as long as I keep the height adjuster in the 3rd slot or higher. It scarfs otherwise. I would like to get a better deck and found an older 36" RD deck for sale from a B-111 (95-36XR01 family). The for sale deck has a different type of front roller and different location for the drive pulley, at the rear instead of over the front cutter as my old one is. I know the two decks are not directly interchangeable. However, overall the two decks look very similar, and the seller and I are speculating they might share the same shell. If so, I could move over my pulleys and spindles and lifting hardware that appear to be still in good shape to the better shell. I have not been able to find an 05-36MR04 deck or shell for sale. Is there anyone on the forum who is familiar with these decks and could tell me if the 95-36XR01 shell is compatible with my hardware? I know the roller mounting is different and it is welded on, but it doesn't appear it would interfere with the drive belt, and I suppose I could cut off the top of the roller mount if necessary. If this doesn't work, I'll probably remove the old deck later and see if I can get it welded to work for a while. Thanks very much, and this looks like an excellent forum. Larry