Stigian

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Stigian last won the day on December 13 2014

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About Stigian

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  • Birthday 04/07/1972

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    https://www.facebook.com/Ukwheelhorsebloke-101209643577823/

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    Gt14+2

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  • Location
    Hawkhurst, Kent, UK
  • Occupation
    Retired due to bad health
  • Interests
    Wheel Horses of course : )
  1. Now for sale to pay for the next WH project.. Come on guy's. you know you want to Click on the link below Clicky here
  2. Thanks Ken, yeah the engine is really light, I'm just glad it wasn't a 16hp Kohler Magnum as they are very heavy Time for a long over due RJ update, and unlike my last post this one has a happy ending Monday morning Nigel and I had a visit from Neil, it was good to catch up again mate, it's been a while.. Not only has Neil got a huge amount of Wheel Horse history stashed away in he's head, but he also came with gifts... 2 engines Here's the top half of Neil.. The bottom half of Neil was busy controling the rev's of a very nice looking engine that ran as good as it looks.. The blue engine has carb and spark issues as we found out, so that's a job for another day. So with a quick pulley swap the new engine went in the RJ. The shade of engine red is so close to the rest of the RJ we saw no point in repainting it match 100%.. It's looks good as it is. One slight problem with the new engine is the exhaust port had two studs rather than the port itself having internal threads so swapping the exaust over wouldn't be a bolt on swap. Not a problem, take a flat bit of thick-ish steel and drill three holes in the right places... A quick test fit. Trim a bit of the RJ's exhaust down to size them grind the thread of it so it fit's in the flange leaving plenty of space to weld it up from the inside. (No idea why this photo won't upload the right way up!) Welded up, cleaned up and trimmed to shape. And a coat of the black stuff to make it look good. Exhaust on. You can remove an RJ engine without taking the hood off, but you need to remove the spark plug. Then once the engine is back in the spark plug has to go back in using a very special tool that won't scratch the paint on the hood Knowing the engine is a good, the time had come to fire the little fella up and go for a drive.. Knowing the gear shift would need a bit of adjusting to get it to shift right and even though it should of been in netural but possibly wasn't the rear wheels where jacked up before starting.. A running issue was soon sorted by putting some petrol in the tank, so I climbed aboard and Dennis lowered the jack, and off I trundled After so long it was nice to finally drive the RJ, but as you will hear in the video (coming soon to a YouTube page near you) the gear selector needs some adjustment so it get's all gears and the selctor bar does not rub against the reverse disc. Also the engine governor need a tweak to stop the engine from trying to over rev.. So not much to do and the RJ will soon done Told you this update would have a happy ending
  3. Yes you really did read the title right, I am selling Project Why Not.. Why am I selling? Two reasons.. One being to fund my next WH project, the other reason is being riddled in arthritis driving her on anything other than somewhere nice flat and smooth just gives me too much pain.. And there's only so many times I can drive her around the carpark For those who havn't seen this machine yet the full build can be found here.. Project Why Not build thread A few spec's for you.. Custom build chassis/frame. Honda GL500 water cooled V twin engine with 5 speed trans. A very narrow Reliant Rialto rear axle with drum brake. Austin A35 steering box. Custom build adjustable front end with hand made brake discs Ford Cardinal red paint, International Harvester white wheels. Top speed about 85mph with the current rear tires.. (fit 24inch tal tires and it should top 100mph!) She could do with a new seat, the engine has a slight oil leak around the clutch cover, and the paint isn't quite as nice as it once was. £3000 or sensible offers. Here's a few photo's taken Friday, I will get some better ones in the sun tomorrow.
  4. I use a mixture of old and new in my workshop.. These old-ish Kef C Series speakers have really amazing sound for their size, I was really suprised at the amount of bass the produce! To power them I use this A&R Cambridge amp of matching vintage. The new bit is my old Samsung smart phone that's plugged into the amp.. It's very good for listening to internet radio or MP3's. When I get the computer installed in the workshop all the sounds will be played through that, I can even "stream" the vast amount of music I have on my home computer
  5. Now if something is bugging me I have to sort it out which is why after lot's of measuring this little used filing cabinet was dug out.. Top and tailed, just the strenthening bits and the draw runners to go. . Flattened out with the corners marked to be chopped out. Time to bend the edges up.. First bend, a little at a time. The last bend.. Until..... Mounting holes drilled and a "sump" welded in... Yes the tray has warped a bit, but that was to be expected and will pull down alright once the tray and lathe are bolted down. Some nicely spaced welding, yes I did weld up the hole I had missed Good penetration as well A test fit of the new (hopefully) leak and crack free tray.. I did bolt the lathe back on yesterday but forgot to take any photo's..
  6. Thanks Jim, sorry it's been quite a while since the last update.. with my 87 year old dad ending up in intensive care with a badly infected and ruptured gall bladder it's been a busy few weeks to say the least.. The good news is despite being given a 10% chance of surviving the operation the old bugger is doing well and should be out of hospital in a months time... Anyway, on with the bench build. To power the coolant pump I'm using this model railway controller, handy for changing the flow speed.. I may of got a bit carried away with the shelf fabrication though much to Nigel's horror This was the old drip/catch tray made from an enamal coated pub sign years ago. Chopped about a bit it's a nice fit in the bench. Weled in and kitted out with all the switch gear though not wired in yet.. The white cable will go through a grommit lined hole in the back of the panel.. As part of this lathe bench malarky I have been having a tidy up/clutter reduction in the workshop, as part of that the old stereo system had to go... Pimp my Stiga with a bangin sound system Thank you Walt for carting it away for me Of course no workshop should be without sounds, so I'm now using this amp and a pair of Kef C series speakers, with my old phone acting as internet radio and mp3 player. I'm staggered at the quality and bass capability of the speakers for the size of them... Amazing! A quick test fit of the new 3hp motor showed that it would fit in the right place and even one of the bolt holes lined up which makes making an adaptor plate easy. Thank you Nigel for the thick tread plate. seven holes drilled and two captive threads welded on later... The adaptor bolted bolted on the lathe bench. The new motor bolted on but not tightened up as it needed to come back off to be re-wired to spin in the oposite direction. A big thank you to Sandhurst Mark for doing that for me on Friday. And then I got a bit carried away without taking any photo's of the progress, but....... Ta-Daaaa A close up of the tool rack/shelf thingy. Swarf and cooling oil can only be a sign of one thing.. Yep, I've been having a play Due to the tray being a bit bowed in the middle cooling fluid tend too pool both ends.. A steel plate put each end to raise the "floor" level will sort that, the interesting part will be stopping the cooling fluid from leaking through the bolt holes! A bit off added signage... The 80 sign was the lathe splashback for many years and the long-sh vehicle sign used to live on the back of my Saxon trailer and went on many a Wheel Horse adventure Things left to do... Stop the tray from leaking.. Fit a one way valve in the coolant pipe so the fluid doesn't drain back to the bottle every time the pump is turned off. Fit a "damper" to stop the pulley on top of the WH chassis from bouncing around so much.. But over all I'm very happy with how the lathe bench has turned out
  7. Hi Jim, my father (also a Jim) has never stashed bit away in case they came in handy, he's only real interest is gardening and there's only so many empty pots you can stash away The lathe bench is getting there, a little while to go yet though as I've once again got a bit carried away with a build That's a nice lathe Randy, it will look good cleaned up.... I bet your glad the "pedal power" isn't still installed One thing though, please don't leave the chuck key in the chuck... If someone turns the lathe on the key will fire at someone/something! I didn't get much done last Thursday as I wasn't feeling that good. I did manage to mark out of the cogs cover where to drill a large-ish hole so I can get longer things on the lathe through the chuck.. To mark the hole I had to extend the pen a little bit Hole marked through the chuck.. And the size hole I need to drill out. I do have a bit of pipe the very same size cut to length ready to be welded in. I also cleaned off all the paint/coating off the cogs guard, the idea being rather than paint it just let nature take it's course.. A bit of surface rust and some oils splashed from the lathe will soon age it A bit of a slow day Tuesday, these double bank holidays always throw my body clock off.. Is it Monday or Friday today? My body clock say's it's Wednesday!! Anyway, I needed to recover the shelf under the lathe, so the last of that big blue panel was sliced up, with the bendy bit being cut off and welded underneath to add some extra strength.. Shelf done I thought I would take a quick look inside the new on/off switch box to work out how to wire it in.. Compare the inside of the new one.. To the inside of the old one!!! I think changing switches was a good move! That's not to say the old switch doesn't have some charm And while were being silly I've not made the hole in the cogs cover yet, but I did find a way to mount it that didn't involve having to undo any bolts/screws.. Three of these trim clip thingys were welded inside the cover and just clip over the lip.. Will it vibrate like a mad vibrating thing? We shall see Time to think about the flood coolant system, so I dug out the P100 washer bottle and pump which had been doing the cooling duties for many a year. Peeling off bit's of masking tape made it look like it had been sunbathing behind a railing fence It didn't scrub up to bad though.. Quite how the pump had remained working when the bottle was full of this gunk I'm not sure, but still working it was.. This is the rubber thingy the seals the pump into the hole.. And this is a small filter thingy I found in a jar of odd's n sod's I found a couple of weeks ago.. Hhhmmmm interesting, it fits the hole in the bottle quite well, not fully pushed in yet.. It also fit's the pump quite well, not fully pushed on yet.. No photo's but when the pump was fully fitted with the new rubber/anti carp thingy, it held it's water very well.. That will do for me So, how to get the coolant from the catch tray into the washer coolant bottle? You make a funnel of course from an old bench foot and a bit of pipe.. A bit of trimming to the coolant bottle to make it fit. Bottle fitted. The funnel fit's a treat and should catch anything that pours out the drain hole in the tray. While I had my head under the bench I gave the belt tensioning thingy a few tweaks to get the rod angles much better. I did another raid on the scrap pile yesterday, and after a lot of spannering I came away with this rather large electric motor that was on a compost mixing machine. Let's have a look at the specs tag shall we.. I'm not that "up" on electic motors but I'm told this is rather a good make... 2.2 kW which is 2.95hp.. Hhhmm... Powerful The rev/min speed is only 15rpm faster than the small original motor that came with the lathe. That's close enough for me. The only problem is the motor spins the wrong way for my needs... While thinking on that I took a cover off only to find wiring instruction wedged between the capacitors, including how to wire it to spin the other way So do I install this new motor on the lathe or not... 3hp is way more than I need for the size of lathe, but the spin speed is right, the triple pulley is the right size, and the capacitors will make starting it a lot less of a strain on the somewhat er.. shoddy wiring in the building.. Some thinking is needed me thinks
  8. You know those holes I liked? Yep these ones... Well I found a good use for them.. A bit of trimming and welding was needed along with this small plate to fill up a hole. And this is what I have made with the holes.. It fit's on the end of the bench to give it some strength and some style.. OK, I could of come up with a simpler design, but I just couldn't help myself Something was needed to cover the cogs that powers the er.. Auto feed is as good a name as any.. Anyway, a couple of strips of steel welded together and bent in a funky shape. Dig out a bit of computer case.. Chop and weld to shape.. I need to finish the welding and give the edge a little grind down, but I'm happy with the strange shape and look A finishing shot for the day
  9. Thanks Jim, the next installment is here for you Toby is right at home in the workshop now, though he doesn't use the pillows much and seem to prefer a cold floor! I plan to put a desk in the corner where the pillows are, so he will end up with a nice comfy bed under it As long as you enjoy the heeby-jeeby's Mike, that's the main thing I did a raid on the scrap heap yesterday looking for extra legs for the bench and come back with this display stand I'm going to have to find a use for these end panels with the holes as I like the look of them.. A big moment came yesterday as "Operation Rotate" commenced.. A big thank you to (from left to right) Rex, Nigel and Dennis for giving me a hand rotating the lathe bench..Thanks Guy's A pump up pallet truck and a few pallet's made the move a painless affair The lathe in it's new postion, the pillar drill was also moved out of it's corner to a spot easier to get to.. A bit of thinking was needed to make the adjustable linkage that er.. links the lift arm to the pivoting pulley bit.. It needs a little refining but it works very well.. It's a bit hard to show with photo's but with the lever locked back the "speeds" belt (the flat one) is tight. Pull the lever forward into the other lock postion and the belt is slack making for easy speed changes. While I was raiding the scrap heap yesterday I also returned with this switch gear which is in much better contion than the switch the came with the bigger motor.. And this big thick steel sheet both of which used to live on a compost mixing machine.... Having a workshop on a nursery does have it's perks As you can see the sheet has been marked out for cutting and bending. Chopped almost in half.. The back bent up.. And a slot cut in it for the belt lever.. A Vauxhall Corsa (or what was left of one!) donated a small bit of a door rubber partly to cover and shap edges, but mostly so I don't knock things down the hole Yes the blue sheet has become a bench top.. and back.. Better photo's of it coming up shortly.
  10. Take a couple of Wheel Horse lift handles, here's one of them.. Then totally forget to take and photo's of the next few stages until you get to this point and remember again! The idea of the lever is so I have a quick release way of changing the lathe speeds as it involves moving a belt across flat pulleys. The lever will have two positions, all the way back which will keep the belt nice and tight, and of course pull it towards the front to loosen the belt.. Now, what could I use to lock the lever in the "drive" postion?? Once it's fully welded up then I think it will be strong enough for the job It will be welded to the bench soomewhere about here with an adjustable rod to connect it to the er... tilting Wh chassis/motor/pulleys mount And that be this thread up to date again
  11. Hi Richard, more like a messy shop tour More re-purposing coming a bit later in the build.. Hi Mike, was the motor at a set speed or did the tingling change with motor speed?.. If so what was you favorite speed? An answer from across the pond here Jim There's plenty I can't do, weld wood, fry water, swim, eat liver or kidneys, listen to the current music in the charts, watch soap operas... If a tool is in good condition then the age does not matter to me, as long as it does the job.. Older tools such as the Southbend lathe also have character, such as the ticking the join the "speeds" belt makes as it goes over the pulleys... It brings it alive.. My next project.... HHmm... I've still got the quad to finish! There's more space to think outside the box Used three phase stuff is quite cheap over here, as most home shops don't have 3 phase! Hi Jim, I just thought I'd get the lathe finished before I carry on with the quad build.. There have been times when having a working lathe would of been handy... And it's about time I got on with it anyway A bit more work has been done on the lathe, I needed to find a way of mounting this rather big motor mounting bracket.. A bit of big box with a slit later sort of thing.. The bit of big box slot's into the chassis like so.. It does need to go higher up.. But some plonker had dumped a big elecric motor in the way! Checking the pulleys line up. Not fully welded up yet, just a check to see if everything lined up as it should.... It does Now to find a way of adjusting the motor to pully belt... This will come in handy The sharp eye'd will of noticed a bit of pully damage on the electric motor.. I did try to get the pully off with a puller, but this just caused more damage.. As luck would have it the middle pulley is the right size and it also has no damage, so that's what I will use.. Time to fire up the Mig... I think that should be strong enough Clamped onto the bench.. Yep, that looks good I wasn't sure the bit of box that holds the motor adjust up was strong enough, so it got strenthened Looking at the photo I need to tidy it up a bit and plate over the hole.. Other than cutting an extra leg ( yes that is 2 bit's of WH chassis weled together!) for the bench, that's as far as I've got... Next on the hitlist is to make a quick release tensioner thingy for the top belt.. This is about the right point in the timeline to drop in a video.. With some rather big box in the power hacksaw thingy.... I had some thoughts about making a quick release system for the top pulleys to make changing speeds a bit easier... I think I'm on the right lines here, it just needs to be stronger! Once the box was sliced up it was welded to the bench and to the er.. big &rse hinge... I don't think it will move now The start of the splash back... Use what you have I say To give the splash back something to bolt onto a couple of lengths of small box was welded to the bench frame.. Before the splash back could be bolted on I had to make and fit a closing panel for the pulley end.. Starting with a panel cut from an old green shelf (thanks Rex ) which was firmly clamped to the bench.. I needed to bend a lip on it, so out came the long handle pliers type thingy for some gentle tweaking of the metal.. A gentle bend up only part way, then move a long a little. Which gives you this... Tweak it right the way along of course.. Then go back and do a second and third gentle tweaking until the lip is bent up all the way along.. Hammer and dolly time.. Using the edge of the dolly first to tidy up the "tight" bend.. Then along like this to tidy up the flange.. A quick buzz with the sander tidied up most of the hammer marks.. Meet Toby the shop dog... He actually belongs to Rob, who is now retired and is spending a lot of time at the workshop giving me a hand with the heavy stuff.. Thanks mate Toby is about 6 months old and had spent much of his life in a cage, so he is a bit nervious and scared of everything... But each day his confidence is getting a little better, which is nice to see Speaking of Rob The splash back welded up and bolted on.. I wonder if Rob is thinking, "maybe I should move in case this lot falls over and lands on my foot".. The "check the pulleys are in line" test.. To get some better photo's and to make it easier to get to the front the bench was pulled out a bit which almost resulted in me being squashed.. The weight of the motor wanted to tip the bench over when it was moved! Me thinks an extra leg under the motor is needed As the lathe tray is a bit er.. bent I wanted to make sure any cooling fluid that hit's the splash back will flow towards the center of the tray. So a length of angle had been welded to the base of the splash back with a kink hammered down.. This should make sure any fluid goes through the drain hole and back to the coolant tank.
  12. Time to bring this lathe thread back from the dead.... Yes it really has taken me this long to get on with it!! Thanks Richard, I expect the lathe and bench to out last me Thanks Craig, if your referring to the Monoturn, it would of been great if it hadn't been so worn! Hi Doug, yeah they sure did build em to last, for a 80+ year old lathe my Southbend has hardly any wear Soooo... Fast forward almost 16 months with this lathe project and this is where were at The poor Southbend lathe hasn't moved, it just got buried! The idea is I dig this steel framed bench out from it's hiding place and use this as the basis on the new lathe bench.. To use the new-ish bigger electric motor I need something strong to mount it on.... I just don't trust the workshop walls!! Speaking of electric motors, here's the old one on the left next to the new one.. You can see the sort of weight I need to safely position now! Interestingly the new motor is a 1/4 of a hp less than the old one, but it has a huge amount of torque Looks like a re-wire is needed too... Something has leaked onto the cable while it's been stored under a bench and has turned the plastic into a sticky stretchy mess! A big thank you to Rob at this point for your help in this huge rearrange of the workshop.. Thanks mate Lathe, be gone... As luck would have it the wooden bench and the steel framed bench were both near enough the same length, which made swapping them around easy This bench and I have a long history, I remember collecting it as a bare frame from a friend's yard on a trailer behind my old WH 312-8.. A pleasant 15mins drive across (well around) fields... The holes on the right are where I had a 9 inch cutter mounted, all the sparks, dust etc would shoot down the hole, through a funnel thingy made from old computer cases into a collection box.. The said funnel thingy.. Off comes the top, two MDF boards bolted through the frame skinned with stainless which was stuck down with "No more nails" back in the day when it first came out and was dirt cheap! The bare frame.. And the mess the rest of the workshop is now in Leg extensions as modeled by Rob..... The bench that is not Rob A test fit of the catch tray and a bit of a measure.. HHmmm... The results of the measuring.. You might say the bolt hole don't quite line up a lot! The easy way would be to grind the flat plate down so the lathe legs would sit level on the tray, but I'm a bit worried about removing strength from the tray at a stress (bolting down) point.. The other way is to make a couple of rather big shims/plates that would bring the tray base level with the flat bit and bolt the lathe down through that.. It's something to think over.. By that point yesterday I was quite tired so I did a little gentle cleaning instead.. It's nice to see what colour the paint is and some shiny bits In order to bolt the lathe down I needed a couple of big thick steel plates (or so I thought!), but as I didn't have any it was time to slice up some of this nice 1/4" thick angle and do some welding.. You can never have too many clamps Welded.. The almost finished plates.. As somehow the drip tray is a bit warped the lip was left on the plates so it could be carefully ground down to level the plate up.. Can you spot why I just wasted a lot of time? The lathe has small feet thingys where the bolts go through which means I only needed a couple of small plates rather than the full feet length one I had just made!! Oh yes, and there's the small matter of a foot long crack in the tray!! Not much I can do about this other than drilling small holes at each end of the crack to stop it spreading (done) and sealing the crack up with something to stop it leaking.. (Not done yet!) Yes the crack does go right through.. Big electric motors... For those time your legs are just not long enough Lot's and lot's of drilling later (thanks Nigel and Rob ) the lathe and tray was bolted down to the bench and I could think about how to mount the pulleys and motor.. This WH chassis looks like it could come in handy With the chassis flipped around an easy solution presented its self.. The chassis will be hinged where it makes contact with the lower bar on the bench to adjust the tension on the top belt and make it easier to change speeds.. I have the mounting plate for the motor which will be hinged off the chassis to make it easy to tension the main drive belt.. Chop the foot rest rods off, followed by the front of the chassis... Chop the axle pivot mounts off and weld them to a big bit of box. And with one of the sliced off foot rests through the hole it becomes a big arse hinge Checking where to drill hole holes in the trans mount of the top pulleys. Interesting to see the chassis rails did not come level from the factory.. But all the bolt holes did Checking for belt clearance as the motor fill fit behind the chassis belt tensioner thingy.. And that's as far as the new lathe bench has got.. Tune back for more heavy metal work when it happen
  13. Thanks Guy's... A trip across the pond would be nice, but rather unlikely as I'm not that good at flying.. Some machines just like to fight you, and the RJ has picked the very last stage to er.. Pick a fight! With the fuel tank sealed up inside and painted, and the carb passing the leak test before it was installed the time had come to fire the RJ up and have a drive/adjust the shifter linkage.. I'm not sure if he didn't like coming off the bench or is just scared of being at ground level but the fighting started! Problems with the pull start not being able to keep hold of the end of the cable and the re-coil wasn't! Cable and re-coil eventually sorted only now the jaws bit that grabs hold of a hexagonal shaft on the engine wasn't grabbing any longer! When the pull start is off the engine it works fine, but once fitted!! Sometimes walking away is the best option and go back to the problem with a fresh head.. Which will be happening tomorrow.. The dull weather makes the paint look darker than it actually is.. So what can I say about the RJ... I think AARRGGHHH sums it up quite well! I don't know what the RJ has against us but it's really fighting us at the very last stage!! You would think something as simple as putting the steering wheel on would be easy, but no! When the RJ arrived the steering wheel was held on with a bent nail.. Now most of the time it's because the original roll pin? has been lost at some point in time.. Not this time.. The holes in the wheel and column didn't actually line up very well so a nail was the only thing that would fit in! I guess the steering wheel isn't the original! Anyway, some very careful drilling and the wheel is now held on with a custom made quick release clip thingy "Deep breath"... Now onto the engine.. The very nice looking Schmacke or is it Schmacko? (It's hard to read on the photo's) has been driving us nuts! The recoil didn't want to which was eventually sorted, the the "gripping" bits that grip the hexagonal shaft on the engine decided it didn't want to to the gripping bit! Quite why we just can't work out, nothing is broken and it works 90% of the time when not fitted to the engine.. Fit it to the engine however and it will work for a couple of pulls then stop again! If I had to count the amount of time the recoil unit has been on and off the engine both Nigel and I would have to remove our boots and socks as we would run out of fingers to count on very quickly!!!! In the end for the sake of our sanity we decided to swap the recoil until over for one that works the more normal way, which in it's self is almost a straight forward swap... Woo-Hoo we can pull the engine over again.... But why is the engine cover moving around so much??? That would be because there should be a bolt where this hole is... The trouble is the backing plate is missing most of the threaded bolt hole as it had been broken off at some point in it's life! We do have another good backing plate to swap over, but that involves a lot of stripping two engine down to swap parts.. Forward one step, back two or is it four? It's not all bad news though, we have had the engine running.. For a short while anyway.. Once started it would run quite nice for a few mins, then start running rough, then eventually it would stop! Best have a look at the carb again, pulling the pin out that holds the float in place was nerve wracking as the casting one side which holds the pin in place isn't as strong as it should be.. Can you spot a problem? Yep the new O ring doesn't like petrol and has grown somewhat! No chance what so ever of getting this jet thingy out!!! It looks like someone has been at the float valve thingy already! Getting it out was er... Shall we say interesting! The carb has now been put back together and will be going back on the engine once the backing plate has been swapped over and the "will it run ok?" sequence can start over again.. What a day Thursday was in RJ land, the first job was to swap the engine backing plate over. I didn't get any photo's of the new backing plate in place, but here's the old one against the donor engine. Along with the new backing plate came updated electrics as there didn't seem and point in swapping the parts between plates.... So, with the engine bolted back together again it was time to see if it would run... Third pull it started right up ticked over well, revved up well and sounded generally very good.. To celebrate having finally got the engine sorted on went the kettle.... It was while the kettle was boiling that I noticed bubbling oil coming out from the head gasket! No photo but it will be on the next video.. Anyway, as the head has a slightly chewed up spark plug thread... We thought we would swap heads over as well as sorting he gasket.. Off it comes. HHmm, interesting.. The piston looks quite clean, but the amount of oil on the piston is a worry! I'd say that's a new piston which explains why the little engine has such good/high compresson which is also why the head gasket went pop!! The new cylinder head has a slight recess about the inlet valve and slightly different fins but it bolted right on.. The engine now felt to have a lot less compression when pulling it over, it also ran very rough!! Back off with the head to find it was oil coated! Does the exhaust valve look like it has had a hardened insert er.. inserted? The exhaust valve is where all the oil is coming from which means the guides/seals are shot!! Oil was also bubbling out from around the exhaust itself, as you can see at some point it had been broken off and wound back in at a pished angle! Quite where to go from here I'm not sure, Nigel and I did have a natter about swapping the RJ's crankshaft into the donor engine as it ran quite well and doesn't blow oil but the end of the crank is tapered not straight!! So close but yet so far!! Sigh!!
  14. Hi Ewan, here's the measurements I took from Neil's RJ, thought I'd post them here to help other out