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Stigian

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Stigian last won the day on December 13 2014

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About Stigian

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    Senile member
  • Birthday 04/07/1972

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    https://www.facebook.com/Ukwheelhorsebloke-101209643577823/

Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    Gt14+2

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  • Location
    Hawkhurst, Kent, UK
  • Occupation
    Retired due to bad health
  • Interests
    Wheel Horses of course : )
  1. Hey Mike, yep wider will be good, but not too wide as it has to look "right" and also my workshop doors are not that wide I couldn't of put it any better Dennis
  2. Thanks Mike, I'm just learning as I go along.. Every project has to have new challenges, for me it's what makes the builds so much fun.. Solving problems and learning new skills as I go along Well, morning/afternoon/evening all. It's been a while since I updated this as pulling apart a Volvo had been taking up most of my time.. Making bits on the lathe for MadTrax has taken a while as well.. Anyway.. A shaft was needed to slide over the splines on the 90 degree drive thingy to get the power out the same side as it need to go in the transfer box.. Here it is on the lathe. The shaft with the splined bit pushed tightly on the end.. Just needs welding up then back on the lathe for the final machining. That looks better, turned down to size ready for a bearing on the end.. But how to hold it in the right place for making bearing mountings as we all know splines always have a bit of play in them? This will do the job Slid over the shaft.. Once it is tack welded to the flat plate behind it will hold the shaft steady... I hope that makes sense? Now another fun bit.. A long long time was spent getting the 90 degree drive in exactly the right place.. No mean feat considering it had to be right in so many planes! To make sure it stayed put, the tempoary mountings (bit of angle) were temporarily tacked in place.. In the above photo you can see the square bit of plate bolted to the end of the 90 degree drive thingy... Well, it didn't stay square for long.. Ok, it's not perfectly round, but that's not a problem as you will see. But what to fit it in?? A bit of this 5 1/2 diameter pipe will do Yes I know it doesn't look that safe, but due to the weight of it, it wasn't going anywhere.. A 2 inch bit of pipe with both sides faced off on the lathe. The lip I cut on the round plate makes it a perfect fit in the bit of pipe. Plonked on to have a look.. A lot of welding later including 3 long runs inside and I don't think the plate and pipe will be parting company anytime soon As much as I would of liked to weld the big pipe into the frame to make it all very strong, I wouldn't be able to get the transfer box out if I did! So I have made up some curved mounts which you will see in the next update.. But while I was at it I thought it maight be an idea to bolt a few bits in place to check everything still fitted.. With a bit of trimming and a lot of strengthening the bearing block can be made to fit flush on to the n/s foot rest which keeps things neat and tidy, but the footrest will need a lot of extra strength added. I did at one point think I would have to widen the foot rests as the chain, sprocket and bearing would take up so much space.. But with the bearing mounted flush the chain and sprocket hardly poke through at all, also the 90 degree mount only takes an inch or so foot space away from a bit of the footrest that doen't feel a natural place to put your foot anyway.. So no widening needed, just a bit of extra mesh to go over the chain.. Oh, I do have some much better looking mesh to replace the rather tatty looking mesh thats fitted already, A view of the back.. The chain needs to lose a link and a half and there is plenty of space to put a chain tensioner. Good news with the o/s footrest as well.. The drive shaft that goes to the front now takes up so little space (much closer to the engine etc) that all I need to do is put a cover over it so it doesn't try and grab my boot laces as it spins.. Plenty of space to mount the barke pedal as well And that is where I have got to on this build as of yesterday.... We shall see what progress Thurs/Friday brings as I want to spend next Mon/Tuesday having a play with Project Wheel-Vo
  3. To keep Nigel happy, here's a pic of him actually driving the forklift as the engine was moved from a pallet to a four wheel'd trolly thingy. Though I think the forklift fumes may of gone to his head a bit With the pallet out the way we could plonk parts in more or less the right place.. For the comedy value the wheels were put where they would be on a standard WH... A bit narrow me thinks I like this view, with the wonky wheels and panels it kinda looks like a wacky cartoon I'm trying to be good and get MadTrax finished before I start on this build, but you just know I have to have a fiddle and make a start even if it's only getting everything in the right place so I can take some measurements.. A lot to work out first before I can even think about making a chassis! And to finish this update, have another video.. Wheel-Vo part 2. Sorry about the rubbish sound quality in this video..
  4. It's been a very busy and heavy few weeks, but when needs must.. The Volvo engine bay now looks like this.. Engine out.. A big thank you to Rob (far right) who has put a lot of time in over the past 7+ days to help me get this stage done. A thank you to Matt (far left) who did the very careful forklift driving to pull the engine and trans out.. And a thank you to Nigel (middle) for offering advice, getting in the way sometimes, and for sitting on the forklift to make it look like he did the driving Back in the workshop with a few parts plonked in place.. Only roughly plonked as the pallet is getting in the way and the engine is leaning to one side.... But you get the idea To make the engine run a few wires are needed.... Quite a few as it happens.. I need the complete loom from the engine bay back to the front doors.. Which looked like this once the dash had come out.. The fuse and relay box! I won't be needing all of them thankfully!. Why so many wires? Well, being a "modern"-ish car I need one of these brains to run the fuel injection system.. And one of these which is engine management.. I've not opened it up yet to check, I have a feeling it's one of the ECU's that can be "chipped" to get the engine producing the power it should be rather than the "tamed back" from the factory as it is now.. The loom out the car! I won't need about 75% of this as I won't be running power window, rear screen heater, power sunroof or even the headlamp wash/wipers! I think I'm going to need a very good wiring diagram But I do plan to use as many of the guages as I can.. The Volvo now looks like this and is ready for the "metal monkeys" (as I call them) to come and collect. Parts removed.. Engine, trans, wiring loom... Propshaft. (may need shortening quite a bit ) Four wheels to smoke the tyres/tires off of Rear axle.. And a new bit of wall decoration
  5. Thanks Richie, there is a lot of non building thinking and working out to do before I can start any metal work.. So I will be busy just in a thinking kinda way.. Nice Gif Jason Though I think your going to need more popcorn and Pepsi than that That's quite a compliment.. Thanks Posifour Hey Jim, I like the idea of using the wagon for storage, but as my workshop is on a nursery/garden center and is open to the public I had the get the 940 stripped and out the way as fast as I could.. The shell was taken away for scrap on Monday. I have ideas for the frame, a lot will depend on how I go with the suspension, thinking a four bar with maybe bike shocks at the back.. The front needs a lot more thinking about to get it looking right and stong enough to handle the abuse I'm sure it will get.. Thanks Eric Thanks Chris, Reason 2 made me laugh.. Happy to be of service Hey again Jim, it's a 94/95 model. Thanks mate, yeah it would be cool to catch up again... It's been a while. Nowt to do with me, it's how those Craazzzyy Sweeds build them
  6. Morning all, well Project Wheel-Vo has taken a big step forward this week as the new running gear has been found... You might say it's been safely kept in this big metal box A "can't quite get he's head around my thinking" Nigel gives the Volvo 940 2.3 SE Turbo a That's quite a big 4 pot! A Volvo B230FK if your into engine numbers. Here's the important bit... The turbo Size wise a manual gearbox would be smaller, but an auto does make life easier... Also I kinda like the idea of being able to keep both hands on the steering wheel during launch as well I dug out the WH 312-8 bonnet/hood to have a look size wise...... This pic makes me look totally nuts for even thinking of this project! However, lift the bonnet/hood up and plonk the said WH item on and suddenly the engine does not look that big.. A certain amount of errr... "Scaling up" is going to be needed on the WH panels but not as much as I had 1st thought as the actual auto box isn't as long as I had 1st thought. Of course I have to fit a radiator and intercooler under the hood as well. I will be using the Volvo rear axle, they are known to be strong and (quite handy for me) easy to narrow As of yesterday here's where I have got to.. Just need to disconnect the shifter linkage, speedo cable (I think the speedo is driven from the 'box), unplug any electrical bits, unbolt the propshaft, unbolt the 'box crossmember and then the engine and trans can be removed as one.. Glad I have the use of a forklift And of course
  7. I have been mostly spending a lot of time at the lathe turning down this, boring out that, and trueing up the other. Not that many photo's but this was quite interesting to make out of two parts and a bit of welding. It's not quite finished in the photo, only a bit of tidying to do.. A bored out sprocket is a nice tight fit on the shaft. Not the fun part, making the 90'd drive thingy fit in not much space.. It's in there somewhere! This view might help to see what's going on. The plan was to fit this sprocket to the shaft that comes from the Honda gearbox.. And put this bearing at the end to hold things steady.. The trouble is, not enough space, the drive shaft to the front takes up a fair bit of space too! Soooo... The plan now is to mount this bigger bearing a lot closer to the gearbox case and fit the sprocket on the end only much more forward than it was.. Of course I don't have a bearing holder for the bigger bearing! So a bit of thick steel slicing.. Cut's well for a £10 power saw An almost flat plate. Flat and mostly bored out.. Where were we? Oh yes, making a bearing holder.. Some more turning later and half of the bearing holder was just the right size, a nice tight fit that will need gentle press pressure to push it in. No idea why these photo's are being turned sideways when I upload them, but anyway here's half the bearing holder and a blank other half. Both sides done. The four holes in each half are there so the bearing can be punched back out the holder should needs be.. Time to fit the bearing... Almost.. As the holder will have to be taken on and off MadTrax many many times, and a bit of drilling and grinding going on, rather than fit the bearing and risk it getting full of nasty stuff I made.... This fake bearing With a little bit of trimming to the inside half of the bearing holder a test fit was in order.. It's rather tight on one of the engine mounts, but it fit's Looks like the sprockets can be made to line up Now the big one... Will the shaft from the transfer box to the front fit without hitting anything and how tight will the UJ angles be? It fit's and the UJ angles are well under 33'degrees, if I remember right the rear UJ angle is about 12'D and the front is a tad over 20.. Much better than it used to be It's tight but there is plenty of clearance The bearing holder was drilled and a tapped so the two bit's could be bolted together.. A clean up on the lather later and the bearing was pressed in.. I couldn't of been happier with the fit of the bearing Fitted.. Just out of view behind the holder is a couple of tack welds just to hold the holder in the right place.. and yes the spocket is free to move at the moment as I don't know quite how far up/down the shaft it needs to go. Now onto the fun part.. Getting the 90'd drive in the right place.. Which is where the bit of angle that is bolted to the drive will come in handy. If you look behind the air filter you can just see 3 more bit's bolted to the drive case.. The go up and get clamped to a couple of bit's of box.. This will hold things steady and give me enough adjustment to adjust it's postition. But before I square the drive up I need to make the last bit of the drive puzzle and fit a sprocket and bearing to the hollow shaft that's coming out of the drive.. That should keep me busy tomorrow
  8. Still no sprockets, so I thought I'd continue with the rear light.. Starting with this not quite flat steel sheet. By not quite flat I mean the sheet has had a big cross pattern pressed into it which I though would be good for the back of the light box.. Marked out ready for cutting. Lot's of chopping, welding and weld dressing later I had this. The cut out at the base is so the box can fit over the anit roll bar tube. These are the buld holders I will be using.. This ally plate is the right thickness to hold the er.. holders nice and tight, so five holes and a bit of cleaning up later.. To mount the bulb holder plate to the inside of the light box but leave enough space behind for wiring etc I made one of these.. Captive nuts welded on the back. A quick bulb test fit. Curved panel made to fit the anti roll bar hole.. But before it was welded on the bulb holder plate was plug welded in.. Checking the bulb holder still fit.. They do A view inside. Lot's of welding and weld dressing to do.. That looks better Best check it still fit's MadTrax!! It does Some of the welds down the sides needed a few extra blobs of weld to tidy them up.. The front edges needed a bead of weld to fuse metal together.. To make life easier I clamped on a flat brass bar to weld against as welds will not stick to the brass.. As you will of noticed on the above photo the longest which is also the top panel is a little on the wonky side.. A big thank you to Rob for the square which came in handy for showing how wonky wonky is.. As the metal is too stretched to hammer flat some extra straight strength needs to be added.. Starting with a strip of double skinned steel. Most of one skin was cut away leaving only a small rolled edge sort of thing. A quick trip to the sheet metal folder which I should use more than I do! Plug welded inside.. The bit of black box section is only to make sure everything clamps down flat.. Can you spot a slight problem here? Yep, the box is such a good tight fit it won't come back out again! The next step was to make some mounts for the rear light, but a parcel turned up containing these sprockets The rear light is going to have to wait, getting the drive train finally finished needs to come first.. Soooooo, the first sprocket on the lathe being bored out to a larger ID..
  9. As I didn't have the sprockets at the time, and most of the jobs left to do involve having the 90'd drive in place, I was scratching around for something to do on MadTrax, so I decided to sort this little problem out! The problem being it should fit here (the tape is only to keep the dust etc out), but I don't have a key for it! But I do have this tank from a Honda CX trike with a locking cap... I feel a bit of tank slicing coming up It would of been a shame to scrap the fantasic art work... So I now have some more wall decoration The filler hole section was cut from the CX tank, cleaned up and tried for size on MadTrax's tank. To mark where I would need to cut on MT's tank I needed to cut out a small section so the new bit would sit flat.. And here is the very same hole after being part welded back in! Yes my brain wasn't functioning to well that day and I cut too much out! The correct size hole marked and cut out.. A test fit, only a few little tweaks needed.. While I was getting on with the welding Rob was cleaning all the paint off the locking cap thingy. Quite a few layers of paint! Ta-Daa As you can see with the flap open it needs a little bit of filler work.. Not much though I gave it a quick coat of paint to help show up where I may of missed any welding... Here's one of the holes. The new cap looks the part, I can't decide if it needs painting of just a coat of matt clear coat.. Time will tell
  10. Nows a good point to drop in the next video.. enjoy
  11. It was at this point I started to have a few of those "Groundhog day" sort of moments! Having worked out how to make a shaft that fit's over the gearbox splines, has a bearing at the other end and also has a sproket in the middle, I proceeded to make a mess of things 3 times! Attempt 1... Having just checked the bearing fit I forgot to tighten the tailstock back up for the final cut! The result was some nice deep gouges! (not seen in this pic as I trimmed some more off to check which tools cut best) Attempt 2... Counted twice what I should of done and took too much metal off making the bearing a loose fit! Attempt 3!!! All was going well until I broke a small drill bit off about 1/2 inch in!! No way of getting it out! Attempt 4... In it's raw state And attempt 4 in it's finished (and correctly sized) state. Not a perfect finish inside, but the measurements are right. The splined bit pressure fitted, a nice tight fit.. It will be welded on then the welds and overhang will be tidied up on the lathe. And finally with the bearing, I still need to buy the sprockets but as they will need boring out to fit the shaft I could get on and make this part.. Plenty more lathe work to go, I needed to make something that would fit over this stepped shaft on the TB input side of things. The reason being I need to fit a sprocket to the shaft but there isn't a keyway for location, only splines at the outer end. Lot of time was spent with some 40mm bar to create this. Outer splines presure fitted to the sleave one end, it will be welded also. Stepped inside to fit the shaft. It would of been nice to cut a taper inside to match taper on the shaft, but don't have the tools to do it.. Splined sleeve bolted on the TB shaft, the sleeve walls are not thick enough to cut a keyway so the sprocket will have to be welded on. Back to the 90'd drive thingy from the Honda Silverwing that I'm using to turn the drive around.. On the bike the rear wheel would of bolted to this bit. But I need to put the drive from the gearbox into the 90'd drive from this way... But how to bolt a sprocket to it? Starting with a slab of 10mm thick steel and a photo that won't turn the right way! To bolt the splined bit flush on the plate I had to cut a wide groove in one face. That looks good. To fit a sprocket to all this a shaft is needed.. This will do. It fits in the circular plate like this, the tapers will be filled with weld. The other side will get welded on and the welds turned down to look good on the lathe.. The shaft has been made over sized as I don't know the measurements until I get the sprockets and try to fit the whole thing in place. This is quite a big "whole thing" to fit!
  12. It was at this point my hands were not too happy about beating and shaping metal, so I thought I do something less hand straining on the lathe.. This UJ was part of the drive system when I thought lot's of UJ's were a good idea! The problem is I had also welded a splined bit inside one end, and the said splined bit fit's the splined shaft that comes out the bike gearbox! It's a shame to chop a UJ up, but when needs must.. Here's what's left of the UJ on the lathe having just broken through one end so I can get to the splined bit. The hidden splines.. Knocked out with a hammer and drift. All that work for this little bit of steel slid on the gearbox shaft! Time to think about mounting this large lump of 90'd drive! This 10mm thick steel plate should be strong enough Lot's of lathe and drill action later... (all the action coming up in the next video). Bolted on..
  13. Back to the headlamp but only very quickly.. When it came to wire the lamp in I found there wasn't enough space around the outside of the bulb holder to run the wires,so three holes were dilled and then slotted to feed the wires through. Time to turn to the other end of MadTrax.. Starting with a cardboard template.. Which fits about here.. I'm sure you will of guessed by now it's for a rear light.. Even though I've no plans to put MadTrax on the road it needs a rear light to balance out the front light.. Not having any rear lights that will fit I need to make my own, starting with this Honda Silverwing light lens. Trimmed to shape including the lens inside. Hard to hold in position and take a picture! I have an idea on how I want the rear light to look, template time.. Rubbing dirty fingers on paper to make some marks and then cutting out didn't work too well.. No idea why this pic keeps turning around! Template number 2 involved cutting lots of bits of cardboard but it looks much better and is much more usable as an actual template Turning this into steel is going to be fun The transfer box gear stick needed a tweak so it wasn't in the way of any knees, so it was moved in by an inch, lengthened and a new hip and groovy knob was put on the end It needs a little tidy up but it looks good Back to the rear light and I needed some sheet steel to make it from. This will do.. Yes it came from our old tumble drier and still has some fluff on it to prove it A grinder with a 1mm disc was used to cut the long slices, a sharpened screwdriver (yes it was a very old one of which I have many) was used to chop the ends out. No idea why certain photo's like to turn the wrong way! Lot's of time spent with a file later and the lens almost fits. Time to bend the edges round, wanting a nice curve some bar stock was used for beating around. Ta-Daa. A lens check. "Let there be light" And held in postion.
  14. It's video time.. Lot's of timelapse bits
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