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Stigian

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Stigian last won the day on December 13 2014

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About Stigian

  • Rank
    Senile member
  • Birthday 04/07/1972

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  • Website URL
    https://www.facebook.com/Ukwheelhorsebloke-101209643577823/

Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    Gt14+2

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  • Location
    Hawkhurst, Kent, UK
  • Occupation
    Retired due to bad health
  • Interests
    Wheel Horses of course : )
  1. I have been mostly spending a lot of time at the lathe turning down this, boring out that, and trueing up the other. Not that many photo's but this was quite interesting to make out of two parts and a bit of welding. It's not quite finished in the photo, only a bit of tidying to do.. A bored out sprocket is a nice tight fit on the shaft. Not the fun part, making the 90'd drive thingy fit in not much space.. It's in there somewhere! This view might help to see what's going on. The plan was to fit this sprocket to the shaft that comes from the Honda gearbox.. And put this bearing at the end to hold things steady.. The trouble is, not enough space, the drive shaft to the front takes up a fair bit of space too! Soooo... The plan now is to mount this bigger bearing a lot closer to the gearbox case and fit the sprocket on the end only much more forward than it was.. Of course I don't have a bearing holder for the bigger bearing! So a bit of thick steel slicing.. Cut's well for a £10 power saw An almost flat plate. Flat and mostly bored out.. Where were we? Oh yes, making a bearing holder.. Some more turning later and half of the bearing holder was just the right size, a nice tight fit that will need gentle press pressure to push it in. No idea why these photo's are being turned sideways when I upload them, but anyway here's half the bearing holder and a blank other half. Both sides done. The four holes in each half are there so the bearing can be punched back out the holder should needs be.. Time to fit the bearing... Almost.. As the holder will have to be taken on and off MadTrax many many times, and a bit of drilling and grinding going on, rather than fit the bearing and risk it getting full of nasty stuff I made.... This fake bearing With a little bit of trimming to the inside half of the bearing holder a test fit was in order.. It's rather tight on one of the engine mounts, but it fit's Looks like the sprockets can be made to line up Now the big one... Will the shaft from the transfer box to the front fit without hitting anything and how tight will the UJ angles be? It fit's and the UJ angles are well under 33'degrees, if I remember right the rear UJ angle is about 12'D and the front is a tad over 20.. Much better than it used to be It's tight but there is plenty of clearance The bearing holder was drilled and a tapped so the two bit's could be bolted together.. A clean up on the lather later and the bearing was pressed in.. I couldn't of been happier with the fit of the bearing Fitted.. Just out of view behind the holder is a couple of tack welds just to hold the holder in the right place.. and yes the spocket is free to move at the moment as I don't know quite how far up/down the shaft it needs to go. Now onto the fun part.. Getting the 90'd drive in the right place.. Which is where the bit of angle that is bolted to the drive will come in handy. If you look behind the air filter you can just see 3 more bit's bolted to the drive case.. The go up and get clamped to a couple of bit's of box.. This will hold things steady and give me enough adjustment to adjust it's postition. But before I square the drive up I need to make the last bit of the drive puzzle and fit a sprocket and bearing to the hollow shaft that's coming out of the drive.. That should keep me busy tomorrow
  2. Still no sprockets, so I thought I'd continue with the rear light.. Starting with this not quite flat steel sheet. By not quite flat I mean the sheet has had a big cross pattern pressed into it which I though would be good for the back of the light box.. Marked out ready for cutting. Lot's of chopping, welding and weld dressing later I had this. The cut out at the base is so the box can fit over the anit roll bar tube. These are the buld holders I will be using.. This ally plate is the right thickness to hold the er.. holders nice and tight, so five holes and a bit of cleaning up later.. To mount the bulb holder plate to the inside of the light box but leave enough space behind for wiring etc I made one of these.. Captive nuts welded on the back. A quick bulb test fit. Curved panel made to fit the anti roll bar hole.. But before it was welded on the bulb holder plate was plug welded in.. Checking the bulb holder still fit.. They do A view inside. Lot's of welding and weld dressing to do.. That looks better Best check it still fit's MadTrax!! It does Some of the welds down the sides needed a few extra blobs of weld to tidy them up.. The front edges needed a bead of weld to fuse metal together.. To make life easier I clamped on a flat brass bar to weld against as welds will not stick to the brass.. As you will of noticed on the above photo the longest which is also the top panel is a little on the wonky side.. A big thank you to Rob for the square which came in handy for showing how wonky wonky is.. As the metal is too stretched to hammer flat some extra straight strength needs to be added.. Starting with a strip of double skinned steel. Most of one skin was cut away leaving only a small rolled edge sort of thing. A quick trip to the sheet metal folder which I should use more than I do! Plug welded inside.. The bit of black box section is only to make sure everything clamps down flat.. Can you spot a slight problem here? Yep, the box is such a good tight fit it won't come back out again! The next step was to make some mounts for the rear light, but a parcel turned up containing these sprockets The rear light is going to have to wait, getting the drive train finally finished needs to come first.. Soooooo, the first sprocket on the lathe being bored out to a larger ID..
  3. As I didn't have the sprockets at the time, and most of the jobs left to do involve having the 90'd drive in place, I was scratching around for something to do on MadTrax, so I decided to sort this little problem out! The problem being it should fit here (the tape is only to keep the dust etc out), but I don't have a key for it! But I do have this tank from a Honda CX trike with a locking cap... I feel a bit of tank slicing coming up It would of been a shame to scrap the fantasic art work... So I now have some more wall decoration The filler hole section was cut from the CX tank, cleaned up and tried for size on MadTrax's tank. To mark where I would need to cut on MT's tank I needed to cut out a small section so the new bit would sit flat.. And here is the very same hole after being part welded back in! Yes my brain wasn't functioning to well that day and I cut too much out! The correct size hole marked and cut out.. A test fit, only a few little tweaks needed.. While I was getting on with the welding Rob was cleaning all the paint off the locking cap thingy. Quite a few layers of paint! Ta-Daa As you can see with the flap open it needs a little bit of filler work.. Not much though I gave it a quick coat of paint to help show up where I may of missed any welding... Here's one of the holes. The new cap looks the part, I can't decide if it needs painting of just a coat of matt clear coat.. Time will tell
  4. Nows a good point to drop in the next video.. enjoy
  5. It was at this point I started to have a few of those "Groundhog day" sort of moments! Having worked out how to make a shaft that fit's over the gearbox splines, has a bearing at the other end and also has a sproket in the middle, I proceeded to make a mess of things 3 times! Attempt 1... Having just checked the bearing fit I forgot to tighten the tailstock back up for the final cut! The result was some nice deep gouges! (not seen in this pic as I trimmed some more off to check which tools cut best) Attempt 2... Counted twice what I should of done and took too much metal off making the bearing a loose fit! Attempt 3!!! All was going well until I broke a small drill bit off about 1/2 inch in!! No way of getting it out! Attempt 4... In it's raw state And attempt 4 in it's finished (and correctly sized) state. Not a perfect finish inside, but the measurements are right. The splined bit pressure fitted, a nice tight fit.. It will be welded on then the welds and overhang will be tidied up on the lathe. And finally with the bearing, I still need to buy the sprockets but as they will need boring out to fit the shaft I could get on and make this part.. Plenty more lathe work to go, I needed to make something that would fit over this stepped shaft on the TB input side of things. The reason being I need to fit a sprocket to the shaft but there isn't a keyway for location, only splines at the outer end. Lot of time was spent with some 40mm bar to create this. Outer splines presure fitted to the sleave one end, it will be welded also. Stepped inside to fit the shaft. It would of been nice to cut a taper inside to match taper on the shaft, but don't have the tools to do it.. Splined sleeve bolted on the TB shaft, the sleeve walls are not thick enough to cut a keyway so the sprocket will have to be welded on. Back to the 90'd drive thingy from the Honda Silverwing that I'm using to turn the drive around.. On the bike the rear wheel would of bolted to this bit. But I need to put the drive from the gearbox into the 90'd drive from this way... But how to bolt a sprocket to it? Starting with a slab of 10mm thick steel and a photo that won't turn the right way! To bolt the splined bit flush on the plate I had to cut a wide groove in one face. That looks good. To fit a sprocket to all this a shaft is needed.. This will do. It fits in the circular plate like this, the tapers will be filled with weld. The other side will get welded on and the welds turned down to look good on the lathe.. The shaft has been made over sized as I don't know the measurements until I get the sprockets and try to fit the whole thing in place. This is quite a big "whole thing" to fit!
  6. It was at this point my hands were not too happy about beating and shaping metal, so I thought I do something less hand straining on the lathe.. This UJ was part of the drive system when I thought lot's of UJ's were a good idea! The problem is I had also welded a splined bit inside one end, and the said splined bit fit's the splined shaft that comes out the bike gearbox! It's a shame to chop a UJ up, but when needs must.. Here's what's left of the UJ on the lathe having just broken through one end so I can get to the splined bit. The hidden splines.. Knocked out with a hammer and drift. All that work for this little bit of steel slid on the gearbox shaft! Time to think about mounting this large lump of 90'd drive! This 10mm thick steel plate should be strong enough Lot's of lathe and drill action later... (all the action coming up in the next video). Bolted on..
  7. Back to the headlamp but only very quickly.. When it came to wire the lamp in I found there wasn't enough space around the outside of the bulb holder to run the wires,so three holes were dilled and then slotted to feed the wires through. Time to turn to the other end of MadTrax.. Starting with a cardboard template.. Which fits about here.. I'm sure you will of guessed by now it's for a rear light.. Even though I've no plans to put MadTrax on the road it needs a rear light to balance out the front light.. Not having any rear lights that will fit I need to make my own, starting with this Honda Silverwing light lens. Trimmed to shape including the lens inside. Hard to hold in position and take a picture! I have an idea on how I want the rear light to look, template time.. Rubbing dirty fingers on paper to make some marks and then cutting out didn't work too well.. No idea why this pic keeps turning around! Template number 2 involved cutting lots of bits of cardboard but it looks much better and is much more usable as an actual template Turning this into steel is going to be fun The transfer box gear stick needed a tweak so it wasn't in the way of any knees, so it was moved in by an inch, lengthened and a new hip and groovy knob was put on the end It needs a little tidy up but it looks good Back to the rear light and I needed some sheet steel to make it from. This will do.. Yes it came from our old tumble drier and still has some fluff on it to prove it A grinder with a 1mm disc was used to cut the long slices, a sharpened screwdriver (yes it was a very old one of which I have many) was used to chop the ends out. No idea why certain photo's like to turn the wrong way! Lot's of time spent with a file later and the lens almost fits. Time to bend the edges round, wanting a nice curve some bar stock was used for beating around. Ta-Daa. A lens check. "Let there be light" And held in postion.
  8. It's video time.. Lot's of timelapse bits
  9. Hi Jim, I can see a few scrap pile trips coming up on MadTrax, a tow ball will be going on the back, ideal for a small trailer Hi CountryRock, there is quite a big update to come so watch this space.. "Quite a project" might be a tad of an understatement... It's what happens when you get carried away and things evolve Hi all, sorry for the total lack of updates of late. I knew I was a bit behind but didn't realise Feb 21st was my last posting! I'd best get on with an update.. While digging through the Quadzilla wiring loom for connectors to pilage I found something that would most certainly be a good upgrade.. So this small bracket was made.. It was welded onto the frame just under the seat. If you hadn't guessed it holds up a modern fuse block, much better than the old Honda one With the 4 wheel drive bit wired in, the time had come to think about lights starting with the er.. headlamp.. Not having the correct bulb holder (which would of been for a really old style bulb anyway) I had this problem to overcome! I had an idea on how to solve the er..gap problem but not the materials until Nigel found me this old pully.. Thank Nigel No photo's of all the lathe stages (plenty of that in the next video) but the pulley ending up looking like this.. The shallow slots were done with a milling bit in my pillar drill. Not ideal as the bed does try to move sideways! The bulb pokes through like this. Then the whole thing drops into the back of the lamp bowl. The little black slot through the bowl is a handy bolt hole, as is the one the other side Now something to hold the bulb to the holder. Starting with this.. Thanks again Nigel It was turned into this.. Which of course fits here.. I found some nice small bolts to use but I didn't have a tap to cut a thread..... So I made one Best test it.. Yep it works... Lots of drilling, thread cutting and countersinking and bolt shortening later.. Tad-Daaa A lot of work for something that won't be seen
  10. Now, back to the wiring... This isn't what's left of the loom, it's all the bit's I didn't need mostly chopped from wires that were too long! As I went along all the crimp connectors were removed and the joints soldered up before being wrapped in tape.. At least I know the loom won't pull apart now Battery end of things. This bit of the loom was a massive mess with lots of crimp connectors! It looks way better now The front end splits nicely into two, it will split nicely into three when the headlamp is wired in.. Speaking of the headlamp, these "not yet connected" wires go to the Quadzilla switch gear and are the very wires that give life to the lighting circuit. And the horn Monday was spent turning this mess.... Into this non mess...... A day well spent Having already mounted the voltage regulator the wrong way ie bolted directly to the frame, I needed to find a good way of rubber mounting it.. Which is where the random bit of Quadzilla comes into play as it has a few holes already with rubber isolating mounts in it... Just not quite in the right places..... Soooooo.. Chop of the unwanted bits. Slice 4mm from the middle. Weld the two halfs back together. That should be strong enough Drill a hole. Bash the bend flat. Drill a second hole then test fit. Cut and grind the bracket to shape. Bolt the regulator back on to the bracket. Bolt the whole thing back on to MadTrax, plug the wires in.... Job done
  11. With the wiring (mostly) sorted I couldn't tidy the loom up without knowing where all the wires would run to... All of which means I had to find somewhere to mount the battery! The only place for it to go was just infront of the rear R/S wheel (no pics as it's hard to hold a battery in place and take photo's at the same time), no ideal but it just would not fit anywhere else! I had already built a battery box, but hope to mount it??? This TB mount looks a good start Lot's of chopping and welding later it looked like this Inside view. Outside view. Checking the battery box fits.. TB/Batt mount bolted back on to MadTrax Battery plonked in place.. It feels nice and strong with no movement and will hold the battery in place no problem
  12. Afternoon all, let's start this update with a milestone in the build... First start of the engine..... Of course it didn't go smoothly to start with.. Although the wiring was operational enough to get the engine running, for some reason I just could not get the two warning lights or the temp guage to work... These three! The one place where the lights/temp guage connect wiring wise is the voltage regulator which should (or so I thought) power the lights etc.. Now I will admit to to getting the power leads to the battery around the wrong way once, that coupled with finding out the regulator should be rubber mounted to the frame (so it doesn't earth through the frame) rather than bolted directly to the frame as I had done once! So... Everything pointed to a fried regulator being the problem, a replacement with correct mounting bracket with the rubber bits was ordered.. The result??? No Change! The problem is this black wire from the regulator, there should be power in it but it was missing! Time for a coffee and a bit of research on the internet to find out exactly what the blasted black wire does.. As it turned out it's the wire the regulator uses to keep a check on the voltage and should be connected to a live.. At the front-ish of the loom is this connector that has been taped up as I thought it wasn't needed... Yes it's the other end of the black wire and it should of been connected to a live feed form the ignition switch! "Bangs head and has one of those Doooohhhhhh moments"! With that black wire connected to a live this was the result I know that in the grand scheme of things a couple of warning lights isn't a big deal, but it was really bugging me as to why they were not working!
  13. Ahhh.. with you now The C-101 will be put back together when I get the missing/needed parts and used.. Wheel-Vo you can read all about here.. Wheel-Vo
  14. Hey Jim, everyone knows what Chris's head looks like, so I thought I'd show his feet instead I will take a few photo's of the complete Volvo before I pull it apart, expect lot's of videos as well Thanks Richard, I do try and keep my build threads entertaining, though I do admit to being a bit slack of late.. Just not enough hours in the day! It will be I can't wait to get started on this one Ed Hey Ed, I think I must of been dropped on my head too many times as a kid.. All the best nutters blame it on thier parents Updates as something happens JC, it's only the lack of Volvo that's keeping me from doing any more at the mo, though I do have a lead on a complete car, I just need to get it for the right price first.. Hey Pullstart, there will be plenty of video's from start to finish of the build as always Ed asked where I come up with my ideas, well I think this one must of been inspired by a couple of videos that popped up on internet 5 years ago.. Here's the Turbo Terror Tractor as you have seen else where, this is the original video. The other inspirational video is this Volvo 740 turbo seariously smoking some tires/tyres
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