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Stigian last won the day on December 13 2014

Stigian had the most liked content!

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About Stigian

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    Senile member
  • Birthday 04/07/1972

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  • Location
    Hawkhurst, Kent, UK
  • Occupation
    Retired due to bad health
  • Interests
    Wheel Horses of course : )
  1. Now, back to the wiring... This isn't what's left of the loom, it's all the bit's I didn't need mostly chopped from wires that were too long! As I went along all the crimp connectors were removed and the joints soldered up before being wrapped in tape.. At least I know the loom won't pull apart now Battery end of things. This bit of the loom was a massive mess with lots of crimp connectors! It looks way better now The front end splits nicely into two, it will split nicely into three when the headlamp is wired in.. Speaking of the headlamp, these "not yet connected" wires go to the Quadzilla switch gear and are the very wires that give life to the lighting circuit. And the horn Monday was spent turning this mess.... Into this non mess...... A day well spent Having already mounted the voltage regulator the wrong way ie bolted directly to the frame, I needed to find a good way of rubber mounting it.. Which is where the random bit of Quadzilla comes into play as it has a few holes already with rubber isolating mounts in it... Just not quite in the right places..... Soooooo.. Chop of the unwanted bits. Slice 4mm from the middle. Weld the two halfs back together. That should be strong enough Drill a hole. Bash the bend flat. Drill a second hole then test fit. Cut and grind the bracket to shape. Bolt the regulator back on to the bracket. Bolt the whole thing back on to MadTrax, plug the wires in.... Job done
  2. With the wiring (mostly) sorted I couldn't tidy the loom up without knowing where all the wires would run to... All of which means I had to find somewhere to mount the battery! The only place for it to go was just infront of the rear R/S wheel (no pics as it's hard to hold a battery in place and take photo's at the same time), no ideal but it just would not fit anywhere else! I had already built a battery box, but hope to mount it??? This TB mount looks a good start Lot's of chopping and welding later it looked like this Inside view. Outside view. Checking the battery box fits.. TB/Batt mount bolted back on to MadTrax Battery plonked in place.. It feels nice and strong with no movement and will hold the battery in place no problem
  3. Afternoon all, let's start this update with a milestone in the build... First start of the engine..... Of course it didn't go smoothly to start with.. Although the wiring was operational enough to get the engine running, for some reason I just could not get the two warning lights or the temp guage to work... These three! The one place where the lights/temp guage connect wiring wise is the voltage regulator which should (or so I thought) power the lights etc.. Now I will admit to to getting the power leads to the battery around the wrong way once, that coupled with finding out the regulator should be rubber mounted to the frame (so it doesn't earth through the frame) rather than bolted directly to the frame as I had done once! So... Everything pointed to a fried regulator being the problem, a replacement with correct mounting bracket with the rubber bits was ordered.. The result??? No Change! The problem is this black wire from the regulator, there should be power in it but it was missing! Time for a coffee and a bit of research on the internet to find out exactly what the blasted black wire does.. As it turned out it's the wire the regulator uses to keep a check on the voltage and should be connected to a live.. At the front-ish of the loom is this connector that has been taped up as I thought it wasn't needed... Yes it's the other end of the black wire and it should of been connected to a live feed form the ignition switch! "Bangs head and has one of those Doooohhhhhh moments"! With that black wire connected to a live this was the result I know that in the grand scheme of things a couple of warning lights isn't a big deal, but it was really bugging me as to why they were not working!
  4. Ahhh.. with you now The C-101 will be put back together when I get the missing/needed parts and used.. Wheel-Vo you can read all about here.. Wheel-Vo
  5. Hey Jim, everyone knows what Chris's head looks like, so I thought I'd show his feet instead I will take a few photo's of the complete Volvo before I pull it apart, expect lot's of videos as well Thanks Richard, I do try and keep my build threads entertaining, though I do admit to being a bit slack of late.. Just not enough hours in the day! It will be I can't wait to get started on this one Ed Hey Ed, I think I must of been dropped on my head too many times as a kid.. All the best nutters blame it on thier parents Updates as something happens JC, it's only the lack of Volvo that's keeping me from doing any more at the mo, though I do have a lead on a complete car, I just need to get it for the right price first.. Hey Pullstart, there will be plenty of video's from start to finish of the build as always Ed asked where I come up with my ideas, well I think this one must of been inspired by a couple of videos that popped up on internet 5 years ago.. Here's the Turbo Terror Tractor as you have seen else where, this is the original video. The other inspirational video is this Volvo 740 turbo seariously smoking some tires/tyres
  6. Hey Jim, the Volvo powered 312 will be happening, it's finding the money to buy a complete Volvo to start with.. I do have a lead on a Volvo, it all depends on if I can get it cheap enough An S40 powered WH could be interesting, I've heard that the engine will bolt to a rear wheel drive trans with no problems This C-101 is my "get about the site" machine, due to knackered knees I can't walk that far at all, if it involves any sort of hill or slope then I'm stuffed! The problem is my main steel shopping location in the on site scrap pile... And it's right at the bottom of a long steep hill!!! Yep, certainly get a video of your Wife's reaction Jim Interested to see what's happening where Eric?
  7. Even though I bought a C-312-8 from Chris in the not too distant past, It's missing a couple of vital parts like the engine and trans, so I needed to get something I could use.. This C-101 popped up very local at quite a good price Unfortunatly the boonet/hood isn't part of the deal so anyone have a spare C/Raider bonnet going spare? The fender pan is in good condition, but once again it's not part of the deal... Another fender pan has been thrown in (no pic's of it yet) but it is missing a bit of metal from the middle and needs a bit of work.. Engine.... It has one and it is part of the deal 10hp Kohler that spins freely but had no compression! Those with sharp eye's will of noticed a couple of bit's missing from the engine... Yep no carb or... Starter motor! I might have enough incomplete carbs on the shelf to make a good one, and I'm sure I have a starter for it somewhere but so far all I've found is a starter for a Kohler twin.. Think it might of come from a KT The trans is an 8 speed which is nice.. Last Friday Rex popped in for a coffee and the engines lack of compression got the better of him and he just had to have a look.. Problem found... The exhaust valve was stuck open, that large gap shouldn't be there! Head off to have a look... Followed by lot's of penertrating oil and some gentle taps with a rubber mallet saw the valve close again.. (not quite closed in this pic) Spinning the engine with a bit of pressure on the valve soon had it moving freely up and down again.. The cylinder wall has a bit of scoring, but not too bad though the engine may be a "smoker" when it's running.. Someone has been in this engine in the not too distant past, the head has been cleaned at some point as all the crud/carbon is only a thin layer.. Other than a wipe with a cloth the piston is as found... Someone has cleaned most of it! The plan for this machine??? Find the missing parts, get the engine running and just use it
  8. Your thinking right Koen, it is Volvo powered
  9. Thanks Pullstart, every bit steel helps It's very rare I throw any odd bits of metal away as you never know when they will come in handy.. Some bits have followed me around for at least 10 years before I found a use for them Hey Sarge, not sure where the closest weigh bridge is, might need a bit set of bathroom scales instead Better to be over built and a bit heavy than under built and lighter because bit's have fallen off It should have a good power to weight ratio, the original engine I think was only about 18hp.. The new engine 48hp A 440 Mopar in a Samurai!! Sounds like fun to me Evening all, back to the metal work.. The removable bit needed to be made bolt-in-able, so some more metal was added.. Some captive nuts would be handy to bolt it on, but I didn't fancy burning my fingers trying to hold the nuts in place while welding... So may I introduce to you all the sacrificial pencil Not only does the pencil screw into the nut very nicely, any pencil that burns off is easily removed from the thread Welded in with not a welding splat on the threads in sight Ok, this pic may be of the opposite side to the above pics, but it does point out the big hole in the end of the tube where it's been cut off.. To fill the holes I found a couple of washers about the right, cleaned them up and clamped them onto a bit of brass plate. THe holes in the washers were then welded up, the weld won't stick to brass.. Then a couple of "trimmings" were tacked on to give something to hold on to. Once removed from the brass they looked like this.. Or this!!!! Washers welded in.. And once the welds had been cleaned back the removable bit was bolted back in.. Time to sort the steering.. The problem I had was the Quadzilla steering column didn't fit the mount on the frame, and the gauge pods I made would not bolt on! But I still needed the bottom of the column as it does the steering bit! So I needed the Honda top half and the Quadzilla bottom half, of course they are not the same diameter and one would not slide into the other! A little bit of lathe work later had the solution to joining the coulnms together and keep them straight.. A close up. To make sure nothing would move lot's of holes were drilled so I could plug weld through to the adaptor thingy.. My Murex Mig welded won't go all the way up to "Spinal Tap", so I turned it up a notch to 6 and zapped the parts together.. Cleaned up.. The good news is the column ended up exactly the right length, straight and the top and bottom halfs lined up, so it was bolted back in.. To celebrate the light and gauges were also bolted on.. MadTrax looks kinda strange with no wheels, tank or seat on! Now onto something fun, or not.. Wiring!!! I had already removed anything not needed from the Honda CX loom, but I also needed to splice in some of the Quadzilla loom! With the Quadzilla loom trimmed back to what I actually need things didn't look that scary! To finish off this update, here's the latest MadTrax video... Enjoy
  10. That's just the sort of thing I have been thinking about Sarge, I need to do some research and work out sizes as space is limited to say the least. Thanks Pullstart, yeah the exhaust does have that "2 stroke" kinda look to it. A good start had been made on the left side with the suspension mount strengthening.. When I put the TB in I had to cut a bit of tube out, so back in it went.. A close up. The captive nut is for the TB side mount. Only a couple of small plates to go in at the bottom and a lot of welds to grind down.. To try and keep things in order here's the latest video.. Enjoy To finish off the strengthening on the left side I needed a couple of small plates to go at the bottom. Due to the small size of the holding them in place just wasn't going to work without setting fire to my fingers, so I welded a couple of small off-cuts to the plates to act as temporary handles. Plates tacked in place.. Once the plates had been fully welded on the time had come to tackle a job that thus so far had caused me lot's of head scratching.... Removing the rear diff/final drive thingy.. The right side already had a removable plate.. The left side didn't, but if I could make it removable them I might stand a chance of getting the rear end out.. HHmmm... Some nice welds to cut through! But before I started cutting metal a template was needed! Ok, I needed the bit's marked F and R but the off-cut in the middle is a funky shape This was part of the Quadzilla front end.. some cutting needed but it's just the right thickness for what I need. Here's the plate cut out of the frame and the extra couple of bit's of steel which will make the plate removable.. With all the parts bolted back on some tack welds were added. Back on the bench the now removable plate was clamped around some box and a bit of angle to hold it all square while I zapped the joins up.. Don't think it will be moving now Now to try and get the rear end out.... Eeerrrr! Ummmm! Until eventually I was left with this open space... Which was only possible once I had cut this bit of tube out the frame... Another bit to make removable! The rear end on the bench.. Rob picked up a wire brush and started to attack it to see what it would come up like Not bad but I fear some mechanical cleaning help is needed..... Now where did I put those wire brush cup thingys that go in the drill???
  11. We all have a "must build" project in mind, and this is mine.. Over the years I have restored WH's Built things that go on them such as a snowplow and harrow... Added a couple of extra wheels - The 6x6.. And even made a fast fun machine - Project Why Not.. Wheel-Vo is the silly/stupid one As you all know I paid The Showman a visit the other day and came back with a car load of WH.. A 312-8 although with no engine and trans it's more like a 300-0 Here it is back in the workshop thrown in a rather neat pile The plan? The title should of given you a clue, I'm on the look-out for a cheap Volvo that will give up a 2.3 turbo engine, gearbox, rear axle and maybe a few other parts, then sell on the rest to get a few £££'s back.. Of course a standard WH chassis won't be suitable so I'm going to have to build one.. A lot of work ahead but I can/am collect parts while I'm finishing Project MadTrax.. There won't be any real updates for a while but I can keep you updated as to how the parts collecting is going.. And of course... Video's
  12. New arrival.. Wheel Horse D-200

    Hey Jim, well the big D went off to it's new home yesterday, sad to see it go but I know it's gone to a good home where it will be used for hauling a trailer around.. But..... It means I'm now without any Wheel Horses......... Until tomorrow
  13. No idea Jim, I think Nigel has had it kicking around for years just waiting for the right use to come up.. Which it has Well, a bit stuck on the drive train at the mo.. The Honda Silverwing final drive/90 Deg thingy I was planning on using just won't work! I did the maths on sprocket sizes to work out the 5 - 1 ratios I would need and the big sprocket would need so many teeth that it would be nearly a meter diameter! Price wise it would be very much the wrong side of £1000 and the sprocket would be so big it would cut the quad in half! So.. some more thinking needed.. I need a strong 1 - 1 ratio 90 Deg drive that will fit in the rather small space available! Sooo... What to do next.... Some welding me thinks At the back where the new tubes meet the Quadzilla suspension mounts it looked ugly as I had just cut the tops of the mounting panel off.. A bit of cutting and welding later had a couple of bits of box welded in just above the anti-roll bar tube.. That looks better and stronger Part of the plan has always been to box in the pressed steel suspension mountings as I hate the look of pressed steel, and they never looked strong enough anyway Starting with one of these, a bit of tube with washers welded on both ends. Which happens to be a perfect fit inside a thicker bit of tube that has been cut in half.. Bolt it to the suspension mounts and you have an ideal way of making sure all the bit's of half moon tube fit in the same places.. A bit of tack welding later.. Best check for clearance, plenty of and more travel than will ever be needed Now to fill the gaps, the top of this speaker stand is about the right thickness Four plates cut to size and tacked on plus a template for the next panel.. The right side almost done.. A few welds need a clean up, and a few of the welds won't be done until the frame is stripped and on it's side.. I hate welding upside down and I'm rubbish at it! Best make a start on the other side, templates cut out.. And marked out on steel... It's a good job speaker stands come in pairs No idea why this photo has turned around, it's the right way on my PC.. The latest MadTrax video, which is a bit behind what you see above.. I need to catch up by 1 video
  14. New arrival.. Wheel Horse D-200

    I couldn't agree more Pacer, I've not had to do much work on her but the amount of power is amazing Thanks Craig, she sure does.. Thanks Mike, I did think about painting the cover but it would of really stood out from the rest of the body.. I quite like the weathered look. Hey Sarge, I've not really done any work on the ol D other than what was needed to get her running. She did decide to run on one cyinder all of a sudden, after being left for the weekend.. It took a bit of working out! Putting new plugs in did the trick even though the old plugs both had a good healthy spark! Nope, no colling fan under the seat. The trans sounds the same as the one in my old GT-14, which always worked just fine, the trans had had fresh oil at some point before I bought it and it still looks like new! Hi Jim, my plans have changed a bit and the D is now up for sale, but I had planned to put a 3 point back on the back and maybe even build a FEL for it.. Nothing dramatic as I could bring myself to slice up a D! So do I Richard
  15. I needed a better looking bracket to mount the transfer box shifter stick as the Quadzilla one was too big and very ugly. I'm sure you can guess which one is the new one Shifter bolted in. Still not quite sure where to mount it on the frame at this point, so I welded a couple of bolts to soe blue steel bar. Very long bits of bar With the "bolt ends" of the rods stuffed through the frame and bolted on the TB levers, I could see there was a fairly straight run to connect the rods to a "next to tank" mounted shifter... But then I found out all the shifter marlarky fitted nice just above the exhaust, tucked into the frame a bit.. Just enough space to get the connecting rods on With one shifter box mount thingy done, the rods were shortened a bit, had a few bends put in and a bolt welded on the other ends.. It's a bit crude, I may re do the rods with rose joints, but for now the shifter works very well, and you get a reasuring "thunk" sound as the TB goes into gear As you can see the shifter stick er... Sticks a fair way out from the gas tank.. A bit too far out for my liking.. Before I could narrow it I needed to find out why the stick just fell to one side under the weight of it's self. Once cracked open I found two springs were missing that that should hold the gear stick in the middle.. Not being able to find any compreession spring in the workshop that were the right length, width and strength I found a couple of bit of clear fuel pipe work just as well Just over an inch removed from the shifter.. Both halves were V'ed before welding back together to give maximun strength.. It looked quite nice once the welds were ground down nice and smooth Bolted back on to the frame, but I don't like the look of the shifter knob, it's more "Austin Montego/Maestro" than MadMax, but thanks to Nigel I have something a bit er... Different to graft on... Yes it is what you think it is... A titainium hip joint And that folks is this build thread up to date again.. Progress is a bit slow these days due to bad arthritis in my hands, knees and just about the rest of me really, but any progress is progress