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About cod

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  1. running higher octane gas, good/bad

    Thanks for the replies and the information. Nice to know I won't ruin the Kohler if I go with a higher octane fuel. I also apologize for any confusion I caused about the RF selling ethanol free gas. I saw the price they had on their sign but I never checked to see if they were actually selling it. If I'm by there this weekend, I'll stop in and check. Plus I should have also mentioned that the station on 74 is down by the rotatory near the Delta Family Restaurant. So hopefully I didn't send Ed on a wild goose chase down to Maryland... Cod
  2. During a recent conversion with a friend about gas, he mentioned that he was under the impression that the higher octane fuels had less ethanol than the 87. Not sure if this is true and /or if the higher octane would damage the M-18 Kohler. Any thoughts? BTW, for those of you who live in the Red Lion and Delta areas of PA, there is s new Royal Farms on 74 (towards Delta) that carries ethanol free gas at roughly $1.00 more than the unleaded regular. Cod
  3. Thinking about mounting the swept forward front axle from a 520 onto a 418 and I'm looking for opinions. While I like the way the swept axle looks, I'm not sure if it would make it harder to steer as I've heard that WH came out with some type of steering reduction set up for the 520 series. I suspect the design made it easier to mount larger mower decks but I'll stick with the 42" RD although I may have to get a different mule drive to accommodate the 520 axle. Thoughts? Thanks - Cod
  4. 5-30 oil

    Any info/warnings about running a 418 with a Kohler 18hp engine on 5-30 oil over the winter. Most of the time where I live in MD the winter temps when I'd have to clear the driveway are between 15 and 35 degrees and I've got gobs of 5-30 for the family fleet so if I can use it for the WH that would be great. Thanks - Cod
  5. Toro model#79361 snow blower

    Not sure that "toy" is the right word as it all comes down to what do you want. From the size of the unit, I'd kid you and say you want a hernia but if you're really looking to hurl snow out of your driveway and all you need to do is hitch it up, go for it. Sometimes I feel it all comes down to how much time do you want to spend doing something. All of us have a tendency to buy just what we need as $$$ doesn't grow on trees. A unit like this would might let you buzz though 3 inches of snow in 4 gear and get the driveway done in 10 minutes and it certainly will handle the occasional 1 to 2 feet. Good luck - Cod
  6. Nice looking deck. Just out of curiosity how much clearance do you have under the frame of the tractor when you use the 8" wheels on the mower deck? I've thought about larger tires all the way around to gain some height but larger wheels on the deck might be a better way to go. Thanks - Cod
  7. Didn't think of that but it's a good point as the shape of the WH deck is very different from the Poulan. If I wasn't so cheap, I should have picked up a recycler that was on C'list a couple of weeks ago and tried it out. Cod
  8. Anyone tried adding a couple of holes around the spindles to let the air under the deck through? It seems to me that with the blades spinning there is a certain amount of lift created and the closed nature of the recycler housing would lend itself to creating an over pressure under the deck that would reduce the ability of the deck to mulch unless you were going very slowly. Years ago I had a Poulan(sp) mower and the deck looked more like two upside down fruit cake tins with slots around the spindles. It was a side discharge but there was a cover you could install for mulching and this rig vaporized leaves. I can only assume that the slots allowed the air to flow upwards and kept whatever was under the deck in contact with the blades. The "kickers" on the WH recycler are an attempt to direct objects into the blades but I'm wondering if removing them, increasing the inner hole diameter (the one in the plate the kickers are attached to) and some 1/2" or 3/4" holes around the spindles would improve the performance. Thoughts? Cod
  9. replacement fuse holder

    Thanks guys! I went to Del City and found the holder in the link below: It doesn't have a metal spring to hold it on the rail but the mounting hole on the side should work fine. Cod Apologize for not getting back to this sooner as my version of Firefox no longer seems to support Java and logging in was a real hassle. Finally figured out that I use IE and that solved the problems.
  10. Any suggestions as to where one could find a fuse holder similar to the original style used on the 400 series tractors? I'd like to change the originals to ones that have a cover but I can't seem to find ones that have the spring clip to hold the holder to the metal support that they are currently attached to, or have vertical wires. At the moment I'm using a 30amp and 15amp fuse in each holder and I'm hoping that the holders aren't rated to match the fuses. Thanks - Cod
  11. How is it that the connections go bad? One would think that a clean metal surface, fastened to another clean metal surface would provide enough surface contact to prevent the build up of corrosion between the two surfaces but apparently that is not the case. Battery terminals and the main ground connection seem to be two areas where you would have the "best" case for a large amount of surface area, but both still get corroded over time. Cod
  12. Just a quick update. Went out yesterday and started cleaning all of the connections. Removed the battery and cleaned the terminals and wires that connect to them. Disconnected all of the solenoid wires and brushed them up. Removed the ground connection and cleaned there. Removed the connector from the back of the ignition switch and cleaned each female clip and male plug (hope the wife has some spare nail files as those slots are rather tiny). As I went I checked each wire with a ohm meter and each of them tested fine. When all of this was done I applied dielectric grease to every surface and re-assembled everything. Needless to say the beast fired right up, it's charging the battery at around 13v and so I let it run for about 15 minutes, turned it off and it fired right up. So for now the gremlins are placated with the ritual offering but it has exhibited this behavior in the past and perhaps when it gets real hot next with next weekends mowing... Thanks for the tips and to answer Garry's question, I think the board was fried when I got it as I've never been able to resurrect it. I had a spare board I sent to SOI and he mapped out how all the circuits ran and the parts to fix it but I haven't had the inclination to tackle that kind repair work. I tend to solder wires in a similar fashion to how I sweat pipes and believe me it isn't pretty! Cod
  13. Won't crank. If I turn the key to the on position and jump across the solenoid, it turns over and fires up. I'm heading out to garage now to do more tinkering. Cod
  14. Title says it all but would any of you know if there is some way to test the wires in a harness to see if they need to be replaced? I've got a 418 and it runs great but occasionally it will not start when hot. So I got through the "rituals" to satisfy the harness spirits (clean the ground, disconnect the plug from the ignition switch, jiggle wires, etc) and the problem goes away for months at a time. I'm not sure if there is a resistance setting on an ohm meter that would indicate that some of the copper strands are broken although I'm not sure that is the problem. I'm beginning to suspect that it might be easier to just run all new wires as the original are 30 years old but futzing with copper spaghetti is not my idea of a good time so any pointers/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks - Cod
  15. Bob, I've never seen the axles on a 520 up close so I really don't know. JAinVA wrote: The down side to what you propose is that the normal bearings on the 3/4 axles are ball bearings and not tapered roller bearings.A ball bearing of that type is designed to take a large radial load( up and down)but is limited in axial capability(in and out).If you try to eliminate axial play with a castle nut you could overload the axial capacity of the bearing.I would recommend shims or ignoring small amounts of play as this will keep you from possibly destroying a bearing.These machines have been operated with this setup for many millions of hours and only had the tapered roller bearing upgrade to handle the greater weight of a 60" deck or loader. Jim, I agree with what you wrote and I only mentioned it as a means to "possibly" make it easier to keep the axial play low. It might be that the ball bearings aren't affected by a certain amount of play and I'm over thinking it.. Cod