Jump to content

cod

Members
  • Content count

    159
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

38 Excellent

About cod

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    418A

Profile Information

  • Location
    Maryland

Recent Profile Visitors

1,001 profile views
  1. 5-30 oil

    Any info/warnings about running a 418 with a Kohler 18hp engine on 5-30 oil over the winter. Most of the time where I live in MD the winter temps when I'd have to clear the driveway are between 15 and 35 degrees and I've got gobs of 5-30 for the family fleet so if I can use it for the WH that would be great. Thanks - Cod
  2. Toro model#79361 snow blower

    Not sure that "toy" is the right word as it all comes down to what do you want. From the size of the unit, I'd kid you and say you want a hernia but if you're really looking to hurl snow out of your driveway and all you need to do is hitch it up, go for it. Sometimes I feel it all comes down to how much time do you want to spend doing something. All of us have a tendency to buy just what we need as $$$ doesn't grow on trees. A unit like this would might let you buzz though 3 inches of snow in 4 gear and get the driveway done in 10 minutes and it certainly will handle the occasional 1 to 2 feet. Good luck - Cod
  3. Nice looking deck. Just out of curiosity how much clearance do you have under the frame of the tractor when you use the 8" wheels on the mower deck? I've thought about larger tires all the way around to gain some height but larger wheels on the deck might be a better way to go. Thanks - Cod
  4. Didn't think of that but it's a good point as the shape of the WH deck is very different from the Poulan. If I wasn't so cheap, I should have picked up a recycler that was on C'list a couple of weeks ago and tried it out. Cod
  5. Anyone tried adding a couple of holes around the spindles to let the air under the deck through? It seems to me that with the blades spinning there is a certain amount of lift created and the closed nature of the recycler housing would lend itself to creating an over pressure under the deck that would reduce the ability of the deck to mulch unless you were going very slowly. Years ago I had a Poulan(sp) mower and the deck looked more like two upside down fruit cake tins with slots around the spindles. It was a side discharge but there was a cover you could install for mulching and this rig vaporized leaves. I can only assume that the slots allowed the air to flow upwards and kept whatever was under the deck in contact with the blades. The "kickers" on the WH recycler are an attempt to direct objects into the blades but I'm wondering if removing them, increasing the inner hole diameter (the one in the plate the kickers are attached to) and some 1/2" or 3/4" holes around the spindles would improve the performance. Thoughts? Cod
  6. replacement fuse holder

    Thanks guys! I went to Del City and found the holder in the link below: https://www.delcity.net/store/Weatherproof-Fuse-Holder/p_800399.h_800400 It doesn't have a metal spring to hold it on the rail but the mounting hole on the side should work fine. Cod Apologize for not getting back to this sooner as my version of Firefox no longer seems to support Java and logging in was a real hassle. Finally figured out that I use IE and that solved the problems.
  7. Any suggestions as to where one could find a fuse holder similar to the original style used on the 400 series tractors? I'd like to change the originals to ones that have a cover but I can't seem to find ones that have the spring clip to hold the holder to the metal support that they are currently attached to, or have vertical wires. At the moment I'm using a 30amp and 15amp fuse in each holder and I'm hoping that the holders aren't rated to match the fuses. Thanks - Cod
  8. How is it that the connections go bad? One would think that a clean metal surface, fastened to another clean metal surface would provide enough surface contact to prevent the build up of corrosion between the two surfaces but apparently that is not the case. Battery terminals and the main ground connection seem to be two areas where you would have the "best" case for a large amount of surface area, but both still get corroded over time. Cod
  9. Just a quick update. Went out yesterday and started cleaning all of the connections. Removed the battery and cleaned the terminals and wires that connect to them. Disconnected all of the solenoid wires and brushed them up. Removed the ground connection and cleaned there. Removed the connector from the back of the ignition switch and cleaned each female clip and male plug (hope the wife has some spare nail files as those slots are rather tiny). As I went I checked each wire with a ohm meter and each of them tested fine. When all of this was done I applied dielectric grease to every surface and re-assembled everything. Needless to say the beast fired right up, it's charging the battery at around 13v and so I let it run for about 15 minutes, turned it off and it fired right up. So for now the gremlins are placated with the ritual offering but it has exhibited this behavior in the past and perhaps when it gets real hot next with next weekends mowing... Thanks for the tips and to answer Garry's question, I think the board was fried when I got it as I've never been able to resurrect it. I had a spare board I sent to SOI and he mapped out how all the circuits ran and the parts to fix it but I haven't had the inclination to tackle that kind repair work. I tend to solder wires in a similar fashion to how I sweat pipes and believe me it isn't pretty! Cod
  10. Won't crank. If I turn the key to the on position and jump across the solenoid, it turns over and fires up. I'm heading out to garage now to do more tinkering. Cod
  11. Title says it all but would any of you know if there is some way to test the wires in a harness to see if they need to be replaced? I've got a 418 and it runs great but occasionally it will not start when hot. So I got through the "rituals" to satisfy the harness spirits (clean the ground, disconnect the plug from the ignition switch, jiggle wires, etc) and the problem goes away for months at a time. I'm not sure if there is a resistance setting on an ohm meter that would indicate that some of the copper strands are broken although I'm not sure that is the problem. I'm beginning to suspect that it might be easier to just run all new wires as the original are 30 years old but futzing with copper spaghetti is not my idea of a good time so any pointers/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks - Cod
  12. Bob, I've never seen the axles on a 520 up close so I really don't know. JAinVA wrote: The down side to what you propose is that the normal bearings on the 3/4 axles are ball bearings and not tapered roller bearings.A ball bearing of that type is designed to take a large radial load( up and down)but is limited in axial capability(in and out).If you try to eliminate axial play with a castle nut you could overload the axial capacity of the bearing.I would recommend shims or ignoring small amounts of play as this will keep you from possibly destroying a bearing.These machines have been operated with this setup for many millions of hours and only had the tapered roller bearing upgrade to handle the greater weight of a 60" deck or loader. Jim, I agree with what you wrote and I only mentioned it as a means to "possibly" make it easier to keep the axial play low. It might be that the ball bearings aren't affected by a certain amount of play and I'm over thinking it.. Cod
  13. Out greasing the 418 the other day and got to thinking about ways to possible decrease the clearance between the front wheel bearings, the two washers and the cotter pin. I suspect there a variety "shim" type washers that might work but has anyone tried threading the ends of the axles ( 3/4-16 ) and using a castle nut instead to adjust the clearance. I've seen articles where folks have mounted a trailer hub on their axles but I'd prefer not to go that route but it seems like there is loads of space that could be taken up perhaps the bearing may last longer. Cod
  14. Replaced the battery on my 418 last week and while the old one was only 3 years old, I was puzzled as to what caused it to die over a 7 day period. It worked fine all through last winter and for the first part of this mowing season but two weeks ago when I went to start it, nothing. In fact it even when I tried to charge it, the voltage would rapidly decrease as soon as I took it off of the charger. That said I have another battery now and while the beast was running yesterday I measured the voltage going to the battery at low idle ( 12.9 ), mid idle ( 13.4 ) and high idle ( 14.1 ). Is it possible that at high idle I'm cooking the battery? Have any of you looked into a additional regulator that would keep the charging voltage at a level that charges the battery but never gets high enough to over charge it? I believe the existing regulator is working but anything over 14v seems like you may be damaging the battery if your mowing for 2 or 3 hours. Thanks in advance - Cod
×