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About aremai4_27

  • Rank
  • Birthday 04/27/1990

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    Wheel Horse 753
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Location
    Oakmont, PA
  • Occupation
  • Interests
    Hunting, fishing, bonfires, camping

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Wanted Deck for 1963 753 Parts/Deck

    I have a 1963 753 and mainly looking for a mower deck for it. I have one for it, but a lot of pieces are missing/broken and it's in parts. The gas tank on it also leaks a bit, and I just cannot get it to seal right and ended up putting a tank on the back of it. There's some other miscelaneous parts that are missing, like the lift cable etc. I'm just looking for any parts that I could you or need, or any implements that I might be able to add.
  2. Parts Washer Solvent

    We use kerosene at the shop, every now and again we'll mix it with gunk, comes in a small square tin, but a haven't been able to find it recently. I also rigged our cleaner to run through a heavier pump and a diesel fuel filter off of one of the old tractors at the farm, but we still ran kerosene a few times before.
  3. Engine question on timing.

    The spacing for a coil is .0125" (a standard business card) between the coil and the magnet on the flywheel, it's important that its done from the magnet and not any other part of the flywheel. If it's still running bad, a lot of times, a coil going bad will also cause the flywheel key to sheer, which will throw your timing off, I've seen some keys that have sheered less than half a degree, and I've seen some that have been off 180 degrees. If you have the coil spaces properly and it still runs bad, I'd check the flywheel key. As far as the week spark, the new coil might either be defective and already on its way out or you might have a weak magnet in your flywheel. To check the magnet, just take a non-magnetic screw driver and hold it to the flywheel magnet, it needs to be able to pull the screw driver in from at least 3/4 of an inch. Another thing that might cause a bad spark is the plug, I'd check the condition and the gap of the plug and consider replacing if your coil and magnets are fine.
  4. Won't crank but battery checks out at 11.7 volts

    You might also have a charging issue if your battery is newer. When you get the tractor running again, hold the voltage meter to the batter and it should be reading at least 14V, if not, then your battery isn't charging. Temperature also has an affect on the amps, so your battery could be reading above 12V but still won't crank because the amps are too low. The simplest solution for this is to throw it on a charger for a while, but the lower amps the charger it is the longer it will take. At work we use a 50 amp charger for an hour if the battery is completely dead, and that just gives us enough to get it started and let it run and charge itself.
  5. Kohler Engine Questions

    Kohler has a technician training program that has a study guide that's free online. The study guide is more geared towards Command series engines, but it still has a lot of useful information that applies to any small engine. http://www.kohlerengines.com/dealers/certification.htm
  6. Engine knocks REALLY loud,but runs.

    jackssmallengines.com is a good place to look up part numbers and diagrams, we use it at work all the time. As far as availability, if you can't buy it from Jacks, you can use the part number to search other retailers, and even ebay and amazon will have the parts a lot of times.
  7. K241running issue help question

    We deal with problems similar to this at the shop a lot of times with customer's tractors. If it seems like its running fine while you have it choked you most likely have a fuel issue, and it's most likely a carburetor. There's certain carburetors that no matter how much you clean them out and run them trough ultra-sonic cleaners, they just won't get clean. My best advise it to take the carburetor back of, clean it out with some carb cleaner or solvent, and run a fine wire through all the jets, and then ultra-sonic it for a decent amount of time. If your carburetor has a metal seat that your needle valve sits on, you're going to want to get a fine valve grinding compound and grind it to reseat it so you don't have any leaking, because that will open up an entirely new world of problems that you don't want. If it's a rubber seat, you should replace both the seat and the needle valve. Seeing that you think its flooding, it could possibly just be that the needle valve isn't sitting right, I'd try reseating it, and then before putting the bowl back on, blow through the fuel intake on the carburetor and move the float up and down to make sure you don't have any leaking, if you do, if left siting long enough, the fuel will eventually leak from the compression chamber into the crankcase and cause all kinds of fun problems. I'd also recommend a fuel shutoff in your fuel system if you don't already have one, turning the fuel off when your done using it will also keep fuel from getting in the crankcase. I also recommend running at least 89 octane with a ethanol treatment, all the manufactures now are telling people to use at least 89. This will extend the life of your carburetor. We use k100 at the shop and we've never had any problems, Sta-bilt is a popular product, but we see a lot of problems with it gumming peoples carburetors up pretty fast.
  8. 520H Broken Rod?

    I work as a mechanic for Exton Mower Service in Washington Township, PA, and one of the certifications we have to get is a Kohler engine certification, the study guide for this test is available free online, not only does it explain how the engines work, electrical systems and everything else, but it also gives helps on assess problems and causes, one specifically, connecting rod breakage. You can tell by the type of break, and conditions of other internal engine components of what caused what.