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Justinc

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About Justinc

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Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    520H

Profile Information

  • Location
    Uniontown, PA
  1. 48" deck on a 520H

    I will check the relation of the center and discharge blade tips to each other when I get home. However, I made a few quick passes last night and from what I could tell it was cutting dead level... Funny part is, I did nothing but remove the center and left hand side spindles, cleaned and re-greased them, while also tightening the deck belt and the tensioner pulley bracket to eliminate the wobble... I did nothing to the discharge spindle as I could not remove it. The true test will be cutting the back 40, or back 1 i should say, more off camber/hilly. If it continues to cut nice and level doing it then I will have rekindled my relationship with this tractor. What hole is the rear, center adjustment rod supposed to be in at the deck, I noticed that there are two? Maybe I had it in the wrong one and that was giving me the problem, I could also be talking out of my butt too.
  2. 48" deck on a 520H

    what exactly do you mean by "sprung"? What's the proper way to diagnose this? Or better yet, how do I go about fixing it?
  3. 48" deck on a 520H

    Alright so I finally took this think apart and this is what I found; Left hand spindle grease passage was blocked, I cleared and everything is cool, reinstalled, spins nicely. Middle spindle topside bearing seal was popped out and floating there, I flattened and reinstalled, no more vertical play, spins nicely. Right hand spindle spins nicely, but I could not dislodge it from the pulley, I jacked up the threads by hammering on it a little too hard so I'll eventually need another one of these but for now its good, no play & spins fine. Deck belt tensioner/idler pulley assembly. Sliding flat bar that pulley is attached too was loose, removed pulley, inspected, replaced, made belt a shade tighter and then tightened down the adjustment bar to the deck body. Also replaced mule drive v pulley and now she's quiet as a church mouse. Made a few more adjustments to level it out as well, just need a good dry day to get out there and see how she cuts.
  4. 48" deck on a 520H

    What is the proper procedure for removing the spindles from the deck and then from their housing? I want to disassemble and inspect. Good note on the blade measuring, I'll flip it back over and see what I get that way. I'm not the long time owner, bought it from a nice older fella spring 2013, and half way through last years cutting season i started to notice it. Tractor is in good shape otherwise, seemed to be well taken care of.
  5. Took the deck off yesterday to do a little maintenance to it, mainly to check and see why the right hand (discharge) blade cuts a little lower than the other two, regardless of what height the deck is set at, yes I've leveled it and played with it to try and make it stop time and time again, but with zero luck. If i'm cutting the slightest bit off camber (hillside) you can always see where the discharge blade of the deck was. Aside from that, the left blade pulley/spindle wont accept grease, the handle on my grease gun is impossible to squeeze in order to pump the grease in. Removed the zerk and tested it on the bench, flows right thought it so I tried cleaning out any dirt/debris from the spindle but no dice. Also, the center blade pulley/spindle has vertical play, possibly 1/8 up and down if you grab it and pull upwards, the other two do not. There is another pulley that's mounted beside the left hand blade pulley (idler?) that has a lot of play in it from side to side, like in a rocking motion. Its mounted to the slotted flat bar which connects to the tensioner pulley, not sure if that's an issue or if that's how it supposed to be or not? recap: left blade spindle wont accept grease center spindle with slight vertical play right blade cuts lower deck idler pulley with side to side (rocking motion) play. When you flip the deck over on its top and run a level across the bottom of its shell, the right discharge blade height clearly measures 1/2" different than the other two, but the reason isn't clearly obvious...Thought there might be an extra washer sitting on top the blade spacing it down but there wasn't. Only obvious fix that comes to mind at this time would be to remove the bolts for that spindle and space it up with some thick lock washers to try and bring the blade up a little. Is it time for 3 new spindles? The housings appear to be in great shape, minimal pitting and not corroded at all, no cracks, and other than the slight vertical play of the center spindle, no other play is evident. I love this tractor but if it doesn't start cutting right I may have to pick up something else to do the job. I'm down to push mowing the front since the whole thing is sloped and it ends up looking like a stair case when I'm done due to the one lower blade... HELP!!
  6. Steering slop, calling out Duke

    Funny you mention that, as I just went to pump grease into it last evening and the zerk was completely stripped and fell out... GREAT. However, it was definitely greaseable because there was grease all over the damn thing. Also adjusted my attachment lift and drive levers, and removed the seat from its slider tracks and bolted it directly to the U-shaped "springs", feels like a brand new unit.
  7. Steering slop, calling out Duke

    Well I got her all buttoned back up, it was kind of a pain in the rear but it's done and I was left with about an inch worth of play, maybe 1.25". It's actually just a little too tight but I'm not ripping it back apart under no circumstance, it'll wear in over time. I'm just glad I didn't go any further sanding down the top block. Excellent repair, if you have the time and means I highly suggest doing it.
  8. Steering slop, calling out Duke

    Well I visited my buddy last night and used the old belt sander and took the block down from .545 to .491, I know its not a whole heck of a lot but I don't want to go too far right off the batt. I'm also going to remove the two shims on the bottom side to give me that much more, but then again its not THAT much we're talking here. I put a little tac on the spur gear that rides the fan gear and now I have absolutely zero play in that setup. Gonna bolt it all in tonight and see what I've got.
  9. Steering slop, calling out Duke

    Well the guy said it was a 90, but the steering set up was identical to my 95 so maybe he was off by a year. Either way, it was very snug.
  10. My 520h has got some serious play in the steering, all associated with the fan gear/steering support block. The steering wheel has over 5 inches of play before engaging so I ripped it apart last night in hopes of making it more snug, then after going in the house and searching the topic I came across dukes videos. At this point I'm basically going to remove the two shims on the bottom support block portion and also belt sand some material off the bottom of the steering support block (after i get that sucker removed), but with duke going a little further and adding shim stock all over the place and replacing a few bushings, he still ended up with about 1.5" of play, which is much better than what he started with but I think it can be improved just a tad, seeing how I checked out a 90 520 not long go and it had absolutely zero play in the steering, not sure how he accomplished that one. I don't have a belt sander in my shop so I'm running to a buddies house to do the work, however, while still having the two lower shims to play with to dial it in, what would you suggest (Duke) to be the max amount of material that I can remove from the top steering support block that wont cause me any issues, or, meshing to tightly? I think if I shaved a little more off than you did I can get it to mesh tighter, hopefully giving me less than an inch of play at the wheel. One day when I buy another 520 or something to mow with, I'll rip this one down to bare frame to completely restore it and do everything the correct way, but for now I need my horse back on its feet rather quickly so sanding the block down seems to be the best and quickest way to go at the moment. Another thing I noticed was the end gear that meshes with the fan gear on the steering block, instead of shimming this gear, could I not just place two nice healthy tac welds on each side of it to prevent it from every having play again? I'm not worried about ever having to remove it, but if that day ever does come, I'll just grind away the welds.
  11. Got a good bit of powder dropped on us yesterday, about 11 inches or so, and I could not wait until I got home to fire up the old horse to take care of business. Don't mind that bungie cord there, lost my cotter key for the plow angle lever. I need some chains and weights for the rear, but without them it does surprisingly well.
  12. Almost burned up the Eaton...

    I'm assuming it's the 1100, unless the old timer I bought it from put a 700 in it, if that's even possible. Noted about full throttle operating, sounds better there anyways lol. Yea it still moved fine and I plowed with it 2 weeks ago and it was fine then as well. Lessen learned, check it every time just to be safe, it takes maybe 30 seconds. Thanks guys
  13. Or so I thought, Got a little snow the other day so when I got home from work I decided to do some plowing. Checked the engine oil then fired it up. While idling I thought to myself " I better check the hydro fluid, aint looked at the dip stick for at least 6 months", so I shut it off and waited 5 mins then I pulled the dipstick and low and behold it was damn near bone dry, prob 1/16" worth of oil on the very end. Didn't need much though, maybe half a quart to bring it back up to full. Let it set overnight after using it and checked it again the next day, just a hair over the full line. No leaks that I can see, nothing dripping on the floor, could it have possibly just burned some of it? I know the Eaton in there now is a second hand unit (Previous owner burned up the original, said it was from plowing snow all those years) but it all seems to work as it should, plenty of pulling/pushing power. Should I be concerned or just keep an eye on it like I do the engine oil? Also, when doing things such as plowing or hauling a loaded dump cart, where the tranny is working hard, I should be running full or close to full throttle to keep strain off the pump, right?
  14. 520 Not charging, saw sparks

    Well it's fixed. Cleaned all connections, no more arcing, although I'm still not sure where it was coming from. No bare wires so who knows. Removed the alternator/charging wire from the 9 pin connector and spliced in a bullet connector I had and voila, 14.7 ish volts and all is good.
  15. Hey everyone, Merry Christmas. I recently noticed that my 520 wasn't charging the battery and the volt meter was only reading 12 volts, 10 or less if the lights were turned on so I started to do some reading and checked the obvious. Cleaned all connections on the regulator and elsewhere, checked the main ground, wiggled some things around but still no charge. Tonight I was able to get my hands on the molex connector under the battery tray and noticed one of connections in the plug was burnt, so not knowing what else to do at this point I plugged it back in and fired it up and tried to hold it connected really tight, turns out that when I held tight the connection, the volt meter jumped up to 14ish but i when doing so I noticed some sparks coming from underneath the air cleaner tray so I hurried up and killed the engine. Where do I go from here and what could be sparking? Also, i noticed that the middle 25amp fuse only has one wire going to it on the bottom side, is this normal? I didn't see a broken wire anywhere, its almost as if it came that way. No jerry rigged wiring or shitty splices so I'm not sure what to do about that fuse. Everything has been working fine, until the not charging problem.
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