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I had another thread on this tractor but danged if I can find it & never did post red porn glamor pics. A carcass from @Achto and a few years later. Finally finished it couple months ago. Motor runs so nice promptly put it to yard work. Some things are just better left untouched. Character they call it and tells stories. Not sure if orginal amp meter but just looked right. Many thanks to Dan for body work n paint n parts. @Pullstart for the motor. Most of my dealer stickers are on magnets.

Continental or Chrysler engine, which is it? Numerous tractor manufacturers, both large and small, utilized engines from Continental or Chrysler to power their tractor. Both were strong reliable powerhouses and much more affordable than producing one’s own engine. In 1905, Continental Motors was born with the introduction of a four-cylinder, four stroke cycle L-head engine. The Continental engine proved itself to be durable and reliable and became the choice of many smaller manufacturers of tractors, pumps, electrical generator sets and even some very prestigious automobiles such as the Peerless. Some models of Allis-Chalmers, Case, Ferguson, Farmall, Massey-Harris, Oliver and Silver King tractors utilized Continental engines as did over one hundred early automobile manufacturers. Some models used Continental engines for only part of their production lifespan; others used them exclusively. East of the Mississippi, tractor manufacturers such as Co-op, Lehr, Custom, Love, Friday, and Massey-Harris produced tractors using Chrysler industrial engines and drivetrains. Canadian tractors like Rockol, Norseman and Regal also adopted these components for tractors sold north of the border. This was also the case west of the Mississippi, with manufacturers such as OMC, Simpson Jumbo, Wards and Big Boy. Massey-Harris leveraged the reputation of Chrysler's rugged industrial inline engines when it rolled out the versatile 101 in 1938: "Six-cylinder smoothness pre-proven in over 1,000,000 motors," early advertisements for the 101 boasted. Not only did consumers recognize that their tractors were powered by one of the world's most proven engines, but parts and service for these engines were as close as the nearest Chrysler dealership. As a nice fringe benefit, since electric starters were standard equipment on automobiles, six-cylinder equipped Massey-Harris tractors were among the first to roll out this feature. Furthermore, the company could boast about the availability of a six-cylinder when most tractors were powered by inline-fours and John Deere was clinging to its Johnny popping two-cylinders. The Chrysler engine also offered reduced oil consumption over some tractor engines: Massey-Harris literature boasted that operators of its Chrysler-powered 101s could save as much as $50 annually in reduced oil costs. Of course, being an automobile engine, the Chrysler also boasted a full-pressure oiling system and full-cylinder-length water jackets, as well as a state-of-the-art water pump. The Continental and Chrysler engines were used in many tractors and they look very similar. What is an easy way to tell the difference between the two? The Continental’s distributor (left) comes out the top of the engine and the Chrysler ‘s (right) distributor’s located on the lefty side of the engine block. So, the next time you are at a tractor show and spot a flathead engine like the ones pictured below you can impress your friends by just glancing at the engine and being able to tell if it is a Continental or a Chrysler.

I was looking around and I have a few things that I would probably just give away to someone in our Wheel Horse community that could use them rather than trying to collect 5 or 10 bucks. Example, last year I tried to sell a set of tire chains for something like 20 bucks? At the end of the show I wanted to give them away as I didn’t want to take them home. I probably have more things that I would give to someone that could use them if I dig around. To me it’s not about getting every dollar I can, I’ve had people help me along the way and this could be a way to pay it forward. I’m guessing that I’m not the only one who thinks this way? Obviously this area would have to be approved by the WHCC and probably the biggest part would be who would clean up whatever was left at the end of the show. Thoughts, comments, suggestions?

Post them on the Big Show Buy Sell Trade thread and say it's free

Rule is Ed if anything with a round hood is seen pull the trigger... we'll check for horns later...

I’d imagine this can be used in similar fashion to build a custom cable for a Horse. Pretty cool!

All RJs had a welded steel front axle. Suburbans and up had cast. All RJs also had the three piece transmission. Some Suburbans had a three piece, some had a two piece. Those are my first quick identifiers…

Looks great, and Rylee was glad to help!

I have the impression that even brand new brick hammers have a fairly dull chisel edge on them. They have a single grind to the business end, not like the double ground tip of a cold chisel. They "cut" brick by the shock imparted from the small impact area. I was always impressed watching skilled brickies who would "cut" solid house bricks with their mortar trowels, striking a few blows to fracture a brick in two. They weren't cutting the brick in the accepted sense of the word but setting up a stress fracture with a focused impact. For instance they couldn't accurately cut a brick like one would with a stone saw. Just my two penneth....

312-8 restoration project. Picked up about month ago. Going through it and finding what it needs. Hopefully be ready for winter.

We were cleaning out some old obsolete refrigeration equipment at work and I saved these 2 fans. They are similar to the metal hydrogear cooling fans from the 60's. The fans on tractors usually are missing cracked bent ect. These fans measure 6 7/8" and 7 7/8" O.D. I thought of bringing these to the show and comparing them to a fan on a tractor but if anyone has one of these an can take a pic and measure across that would be helpful. I do not need a fan but I'm trying to come up with a reasonably priced alternative to the obsolete WH fan so members can replace theirs if needed.

Well, I decided to try something different. Bent a piece of 1/2” conduit and ran the wires that normally go overtop of the engine, through the conduit. Now it needs powder coat.

'Fraid not Bob... was welded in the usual spot...where it bolts to the frame. Decent PO repair tho & correct one so run it like I it.

I have an Estwing brick hammer I bought 30 + years ago, never have sharpened it.

Well you're at the right/wrong place to support that!!

Forms are on.

It was on CL not too far from me, with a 1055 or 1056 carcass. It was silly, like “$175 for everything, or $250 for just the belt guard. I know what I have.” he ended up giving me a handful of 552 stuff, a hood, belt guard, clapped out stuck frame and transmission, etc. That $175 made a ton of projects complete!

Story on the motor is I had a 401 with a one pull B1290 on it that I ran so little it had stale gas in it. @Lil’ Pullstart took a hankerin to it and since I was neglecting it and her dad had a pulley correct 161 that fell out the sky so a trade was made. Popped the 161 head to see what shakes and it had a .010 piston that never saw fire! 2nd small block come thru here like that.

If you put an edge on a brick hammer it will shatter.

Quite a transformation!!

More like 40 to 45 degrees. It's more a chisel edge than a cutting type edge. Obviously it's a balance between a sharp edge that would be damaged pretty much right away and a plain flat surface that would still beat it's way through grass at a high enough speed. Currently I have a Stihl battery mower and the blade on that is very thin and has a very sharp cutting edge, honestly you could shave with a new one. The reason for this is the battery motor is not powerful enough to drive a blade as thick as a petrol engined machine and similarly not strong enough to cut grass with a chisel edge. We will see how long it lasts eh?

If you have one of those springs that is not cracked, you could extend its life by polishing a small radius on the top edge of the bolt hole. The polish operation is important, as grinding marks or file marks are also places that encourage fatigue cracks to start. The square edge on the bolt hole is a stress consentration point - a 'break here' feature. Polishing a small radius will remove the 'break here' feature and should increase the fatigue life of the seat spring.

Please don't leave us hanging - let us know what you find.

I actually have thought about a lift in my garage, I have a 12’ ceiling so I have the height but honestly for the amount that I would use it I think it would be in the way more than anything?

Picked up these beauties this afternoon. I don't drink or gamble...but I have an addiction.

Click on the pic.

The smile says it all! 👍

that is amazing, I have a 701 myself but I am missing the belt guard it runs great it is one of my two round hoods but it is amazing. i like stacks so mine has one and a custom diamond plate dash because the plastic one was broke. good transformation, I need to get mine restored but it is not near as close and nice as yours

I can measure my 875 fan.

Sure did clean up beautifully. And it's great to have such great friends to help you out along the way.

Came with the Pullstart motor!

And is that a rare, original, unbroken steering support?

Built in redundancy seems to be the order of the day. Plus the fact that modern gal's want the most up to date fancy looking kit in their homes. Plus the fact that modern manufacturing processes allow for thinner steel, less material etc so things don't last. You only have to look at car body panels to see that in action. My mum with her new washing machine in the early 60's. I would bet my pension that if I could find it the thing would still be in working order, or could be repaired to be. Note we only had one cold tap, no hot water other than from a wall mounted gas fired geyser over the pot sink. We also had no indoor toilet or a bathroom. Seems a thousand years from what people expect as basic facilities these days. Lord knows how modern families would cope with what I grew up with, but I'm.sure my grandparents would have been saying the same thing when I was a nipper.

Also make sure they are lug centric, not hub centric. Lug centric do not have a ring on the face of the spacer.

I'll be doing both.I had it in my head one was a Torrington type bearing,but with all the iron I have around I am no doubt thinking of something else.I got the tractor from my neighbor in 1993,who had bought it new in 1973.The clutch was bad.The epoxied field winding was actually loose from the housing.I showed it to a local motor rewinder,he said easy,just give me a form to wind around.So I made a wooden form and handed it to him.He didn't expect that,he said that chases most people off.He wound it,set it in the housing,and poured the epoxy in it.The original lasted exactly 20 years,this one will be 31 in July.The bearing place has a record of all the bearings I have bought there,but in 1993 I bought over 180 bearings,It would be quite a job to narrow them down to which ones were for that tractor.

Thanks guys, all good suggestions. I'll try some and let you know when I get it fixed. Any more suggestions feel free to post

New fuel line, tank flushed, tried an electric pump but no change

Which bearing do you need? There are two. I have both... ps...how did you rewind the electro magnet???

Perhaps a cheaper alternative... I used one of these to skid the yard art...

The engine was made in 1994 so it would have landed on a 1994 or 1995 model tractor. The 1994 operator manual is posted above.

I saw these at the local agricultural/vintage auction at the weekend. I put a bid in at £10.00, and won!!! 6.90 x 180 -15. Unused. There was also a C161 with a 48” S. D deck, this made £750.00, and a 42” S.D deck on its own, which made £380.00! So I was quite pleased with my purchase! Now I suppose I’m going to have to look at building a “Horse” to fit them to!

. Back!!

to Look for the model number, usually under the seat, I'll look at the manuals section & see if there's one there...

Decal installed on the lift lever. Terry makes them all and they all are great.

I think the "real" 9N was roughly around 2400 lbs. I checked one of the earlier brochures I have on the Ford Ferguson 9N, but didn't see the weight in it. But it was too cool not to attach it here. ford9n.pdf

I ran across this tonight, thought you guys would enjoy.

I also found the hood I bought from @squonk at one of the last couple Big Shows. Should I swap it out for the unpainted one? I also have the Bugatti kit car back in the shop for another round of upgrades and maintenance.

We spent the day moving all the ehhh... "Stuff" out from undah the last side shed roof. We're now ready for concrete. And the waiting begins..... Bonus dog pic!!!

Lets see, do a 300 mile radius around Princeton WI; start checking all the CL postings, find the listing, pull the rug out from under Jim; no ,couldn't do that. Good looking , go get it!