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A nice collectable Wheel Horse toy

only one more thing needed! for that ugly seat!

Helping out a local Shrine with some new property they just picked up. It needed a bit of weed "whipping"... C-105 did the job with no complaints. Amazing power...

Spring cleaning the stables... netted me a couple beauty shots today.

Finally had a spare moment to actually work on this thing today. have not touched it since Fall other than to fab a belt support post for where belt exits the drive pulley. I had done some research and planning for the belt drive system and ordered new belt in november 2017. The OEM Wheel Horse Belt that was same length as the aftermarket belt I had which was close to working but not perfect. Took me hours to cross reference multiple docs. But I sourced it. My OCD tendencies would not let me proceed with the project until I was closer to perfect. So today I spent a couple hours and installed. It ran well but the brake and the clutch friction stop weren’t ideal. today it ran like a scalded cat and brake works well. I’m pretty pleased. I can now move forward and maybe get some paint on this thing before show. Wont get it done though. But maybe before the Fall meet and greet in CT.

TOM... you ride that?

Happy Memorial Day weekend, And thanks to all--both here and gone. Picked up a Johnny bucket laat week from @snowhound. Decided today to clean the carb on my 310 and get it running... then decided the Johnny bucket should go on it... then decided the 25" atv tires that were on a GT2500 I again got from Snowhound (Ed) should go on it... then decided the 6" fronts had to go and found a set of 18" ones. Put it all together and adjusted travel on bucket so it would scrape if I wanted. Need threaded rod and nuts / bolts for the weights--off to hardware store tomorrow. Im impressed with the huge ground clearence. Im going to use it alot for moving small things around. I also think my father is going to want to use it to move some loam / mulch around. Tony

Need new points, plug,condenser. Fuel pump would not pump fuel so off it comes and an electric pump will take it’s place. Building a mount monday. So while I am waiting to get parts, figured I would get my headlight situation taken care of. The factory light housing fits fine with the fuel tank but it hits the wires and presses them into the socket lip. So rather than try to fix it, upgrade it. 😁 I had gotten another headlight housing from Aldon but when I got it, it was cracked from shipping, so I had no problem modifying it. I made a plate for the top and cut my holes for twist in halogen bulbs. I’ll replace them later with LED replacements. I had some small fans from I bought a long time ago from a surplus place. Mounted it up and will drill the air feed later. Should work just fine. Should.......

Detailed the 312-8 a little more. Put a set of weights I had bought Emory, but he claimed the real WH weights I got with my recent purchase. No spinning now, but the deck is dirty from use. I did hit the muffler with high heat to protect it-everything else I'd original. I did pull the front hubcaps too, I just prefer the plain look - more purpose built In my opinion.

Kohler recommends a straight 30w for temperatuures above 30 degrees.They don't recommend a multi weight oil.The most important thing for long life is to change the oil at 20 to 25 hours.There is no filter on the single 16 so when drained all the crud comes out.In my mind oil is cheap compared to a rebuild.

You can thank @Lane Ranger for this idea! My famous Nestle Coffee Creamer front wheel caps!

That pic reminds me of the first time I saw the C-145 I named Marvin. Reminded me of that goofy martian in the Bugs Bunny cartoons.

Richie, with your skills I'm sure you could duplicate this engineering feat for the eaton.

Awhile back my WH buddy (groundhog) calls and sez would I like to have a Massey Ferguson 1650 GT -- so I sez---- huh? I didnt even know Massey made a small tractor! So I go and look at it and it was rough, been sitting out for years! (you know, like a lot of our horses come to us!) BUT!! a 2000rpm 42" tiller was in the deal and it looked better than the tractor so that clinched the deal at $150. The MF 1650 is fairly close in size the the WH D's, though somewhat more 'beefier' --- Kohler K341, Eaton hydro with hi & lo range, 3 point hitch, and a 48" deck (that turned out to be beyond repair) So I haul him home - mostly to get the tiller! But I get to tinkering with it and find its not as bad as I thought, virtually undisturbed as far as jake leg mechanics. Engine first getting fuel to it and it started right up and ran GOOD, so scrounged up tires to ck the hydro/gears/steering, etc -- well, again everything worked beautifully. By this time I am getting pretty impressed with thing and started doing a good thorough clean up. Has Ross steering (just like the WH) and it needed rebuilt and all linkage freed up -- and toe-in set!, had horrible toe-out which made steering a bear. I scrounged up another deck and got it rebuilt, and all the tiller needed was the 2 oil seal on the gear box and it worked great. Anyhow after bout 3 months with lots of elbow grease, the dern thing is SWEET! Ive really taken a liking to it. Course as we already know, the Kohler K341 is a hoss and this one was/is in excellent condition, as is all the running gear. Have since found out MF had a 1655 and a 1855 with Onans that is even more 'beefier' than this 1650 - Ive been kinda looking for one of them.....

Do you have a multimeter? First step is to check the battery voltage without the engine running. It should read 12+ volts. Then check it with the engine running at about half to full throttle. You should be getting about 13.5 to 14.8 volts DC. If you aren't getting this voltage when running, then you need to start working back to see where the charging voltage stops. Many times the problem is in the ammeter. The voltage from the rectifier goes through the ammeter. If it's bad, it stops there.

Just picked up this 1965 model 655 from a gentleman across town. I picked it up for 75 bucks! It will definitely need an overhaul but it appears that everything is intact except for the original seat .

well today's plan was to get it up and running, only had limited with picnics, put all the new goodies on, fuel bowl, fuel line, points condenser plug muffler, pulled the head off to decarbon, good thing the exhaust valve was sticking a little, popped the battery in have it crank nice spark on the tester, gave the gas and nothing, pulled off the fuel pump that was stuck and gummed up, still nothing, line from the pump carb was gummed swapped that out still nothing, popped off the carb looks like that have rebuilt and cleaned, almost there, but I did have it running on starting fluid so I guess I some what accomplished my goal.

Decided I’d rather finish the turning brakes and add hydraulics before I do complete tear down and paint. I made some headway this afternoon. It’s a bit difficult to see but the calipers are mechanical and the engagement lever is normally low and when pulled in upward direction will brake. I fabbed up brackets, threaded rod and pulleys to route the brake cable today.

Please excuse me if I am being rude, but why do you put your member name as the subject title? If you give a subject title of what your working on, people will be able to use the search function to find info. Thanks, Randy

calendar shot.

I use Rotella straight 30W all year long for about 20 years now.

I've been slowly making my '88 312-8 my ground implement tractor. Last week I removed the seat pan, the shift plate, and instrument plate. I got height adjustment assembly and the right shift plate and instrument plate from A&Z Tractors. I also got new decals for the plates from Terry and rear rock shaft assembly from Lowell. While I had everything off I decided to put a marine hand pump on the fuel line. I had one in the boat box stuff. Cut 6" off the fuel line, put it on, gave it about three squeezes, started the tractor which hadn't been started in about 4 weeks. With choke on, it started within 3 seconds. I think it is going to work fine. Just have to lift the seat and give it a couple of squeezes. Also, moved the seat back an inch and raised it an inch, sure helps with the bad knee. The vendors on this site are some really great people to deal with.

Bought a square-cut seal kit from Harbor Freight for $5. Had what I needed. Cheapest fix I've had on this so far.

Sure does but that clutch could use a little alignment!

Thanks for the help guys. A welder at my day job laughed at me, and said give me that arm! He welded a nice smooth area where the idler had worn out a big oval in the arm, then he used a dremel to make it look and work like brand new.... I buffed it out, and the thing works great, no more rattles ! Nothing like OEM he said, metal is better than what you can get today THANK YOU RED SQUARE !!!!! John

So I've added a few things since I last posted. Just waiting on my new pulling hitch from Tom and I'll be ready to go.

Backing up my new truck today...looked in the camera and saw this!!

I like the solenoid placement! Your wiring is looking great! Randy

Not at all because the 8-4227 lift kit was an option that could be added to the model. Look at the attachment list. Garry

Don't laugh. I had to use one of those portable AC units to keep a $10,000 control board cool on a $200,000 chiller for a couple days.

@squonk Or I could just drag a generator and one of these around . Actually though I got a correct rotation fan. Just have to put it on.

Lots of threads on here about how well people life the electric lifts, the picture below shows all tghe parts and pieces needed. Probably the most challenging part would be changing out the rockshaft. Put an ad in the classifieds, someone is bound to have one.

Call your local auto parts store and see if they can do it. Also, Do a search here on Redsquare to see how to test the output of the stator. We can't stress enough how important it is to be sure ALL wires, cables, etc have clean ends. And... Once you've established that the stator is working... Remove and clean the mounts for the rectifier. It can Only be tested with engine running and Only if the ground is clean.

Well we have spark and she turns over. Throwing some fuel to her tomorrow. Hope for the best.

That is one nice looking beast. I like it.

Hard to pass up a Kohler 16 HP thumper for $ 150, the tractor was free at that point.

I use my tractors for their intended purpose, and then some, lol. I do have a small JD lawn tractor that was part of my Dad's estate - he was proud to own it and I just can't let it go for that reason, so it stays as a backup and does get exercised occasionally mowing. There are times my go-to '73 16 Auto has been down, so the JD can keep up around here, albeit it's pretty fragile in comparison. I have no fear of pushing any of my equipment into a worn out state - for me, there is no such thing. Engines can be replaced/upgraded/rebuilt, everything else I can repair or replace due to our extensive network of parts and vendors making new parts. There is a growing group of members here that are already helping out others on repairs just to keep these machines around - I expect that to continue to grow and expand. If I have a worn out part, such as a front axle - it gets overhauled and fully bushed with bronze or brass, these will outlive me easily. The only true thing that can possibly wear out to a point of no repair is a hydro transmission, but down the road, there will be other opportunities to convert them using commercial parts off other equipment. The growing trend in equipment close to ours is all headed to hydro drives versus gear drives - so it will be possible to fix any machines that simply become past a service life. Your double D deck and associated parts can be converted over to the newer style shafts/bearings - no worries there. Broken things can be repaired, duplicated or remanufactured - I'd bet we can easily keep most of these machines in service well past another 30yrs. For those that don't have the ability to repair this stuff, I'd imagine more members here will be offering the option to send your parts to them for repair work - some of that is already in place and hopefully, before this year is out I'll offer a front axle service. In comparison to the cost of modern equipment and it's shortcomings - there is no reason not to invest in these old, heavy, overbuilt tractors. Not much is made today that can keep up, let alone last as long as these machines. My motto is as follows - NEVER THROW AWAY BROKEN OR WORN OUT PARTS, EVERYTHING CAN BE FIXED Sarge

Last week I drove a few hours north and bought a 42" Snow thrower and a Wheel Horse snow cab. The Thrower is a bit crusty but looks to have good bearings and chain, sprockets. The cab is missing a few pieces of the frame but the canvas looks like it's never been used. No scratches on the plastic windows even. It has a fiberglass roof too. Not ABS. The bad part is some rodents thought the cab canvas was food in a few spots. Maybe I can come up with some matching material and patch? My 416-H currently has a 32" thrower and I wanted to get a 42" so I kept watching CL. The cab is a bonus. BIGMIKE

I need some help. I just purchased 3 garden tractors, plus implements, from a guy on Craigslist and I'm having difficulty identifying one of them. It looks to me like it's a C100, but honestly for all I know it could be a Raider10 or a charger10 just as easily. I'm really not sure. The tag under the dashboard reads, Model T10, Serial # 329650. When I googled Wheel Horse T10 I got nothing. Can one of you great Wheel Horse guru's help me out? Thanks Chris

Looking good brother!

Your never to old to ride a Horsie!

Hello everyone I got a wheel horse 8hp 4 speed a few days. The wiring was not good and it had cracked wiring everywhere. The recifier was disconnected as well. I replaced all the wiring, put in a new ignition, and connected the recifier. I’m pretty sure all my wiring is correct because I followed a diagram for my model step by step. However I do not beleive me battery is getting charged. I am aware how the system works, there is a stator under the flywheel cover, it has 2 wires going to the recifier and then one going from the recifier to the ignition. So I’m wondering if one of those 2 need replaced but I was looking for some other input on the situation. When I start/stop the tractor enough times the battery doesn’t have enough juice to start it again which leads my to the not charging theory. Thanks in advance!

Here's Marvin. I took the picture at this angle on purpose.

I have found the the internal 9 volt battery in a multi meter can give bad readings if it is week.

Very nice hope to get my 520h loader in the shape you have some day.

Come on everyone!! I know you all have stuff to sell. Post it here ...

Serial#48337 last one made. Mods please add to my other pics. Thanks No need to edit Tom...fine the way it is. Stevasaurus Edit

I have used this pump with good results. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HEP-02A-New-Gas-Diesel-fuel-pump-Inline-Low-Pressure-electric-fuel-pump-12V/191558570132?hash=item2c99c7d094:g:ZC0AAOSwEyRag2o3