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I spent some time during off season and restored the old girl she will out last me. I have a 416-8 and I love this one. I don't see many around well not here in Va.

Last night we had a violent storm pass through the area. It spawned a couple of tornado's (EF2 in Kent, NY and an EF1 in Patterson, NY) but there's investigation into whether or not there's been more. Here in my neighborhood there's a little property damage, one neighbor roof got partially ripped off, but elsewhere in town and the neighboring towns there's very significant damage. Here at my house, nothing more than a few leaves on the deck, and some branches on the grass. I know I'll miss some, but I hope that @Rob R @stevebo @fireman @Ken B @Uncle BO @Ed Stoller and anyone I missed are all okay.

I held off on submitting my pics until I knew that I could go to the show. Gretel & I sat down & decided on these.

I'm not sure if this is your deck, but if it is, it appears the shaft alone would have to be driven out from either end. Screw a long bolt in the shaft and tap on the bolt head. After the shaft is out, the spacer can be pushed to the side and the bearings can be tapped out with a punch.

On it already, ill get him info by the end of today

Wow beautiful job! The 1978-79 C-series are my favorite! I have six of them. Here's two of them. C-161 8-Speed and C-121 automatic

Is it too late for a pic for a trading card? I am attending this years Big Show for the first time! -JimmyJam

that’s great Ryan! You also have some epic pics of the tractors and your kids with them. If you have a least one pics with the boys and the tractors somewhere on the card, it would be a cool keepsake for them in the future too! Saaaaweet!

I have been mostly spending a lot of time at the lathe turning down this, boring out that, and trueing up the other. Not that many photo's but this was quite interesting to make out of two parts and a bit of welding. It's not quite finished in the photo, only a bit of tidying to do.. A bored out sprocket is a nice tight fit on the shaft. Not the fun part, making the 90'd drive thingy fit in not much space.. It's in there somewhere! This view might help to see what's going on. The plan was to fit this sprocket to the shaft that comes from the Honda gearbox.. And put this bearing at the end to hold things steady.. The trouble is, not enough space, the drive shaft to the front takes up a fair bit of space too! Soooo... The plan now is to mount this bigger bearing a lot closer to the gearbox case and fit the sprocket on the end only much more forward than it was.. Of course I don't have a bearing holder for the bigger bearing! So a bit of thick steel slicing.. Cut's well for a £10 power saw An almost flat plate. Flat and mostly bored out.. Where were we? Oh yes, making a bearing holder.. Some more turning later and half of the bearing holder was just the right size, a nice tight fit that will need gentle press pressure to push it in. No idea why these photo's are being turned sideways when I upload them, but anyway here's half the bearing holder and a blank other half. Both sides done. The four holes in each half are there so the bearing can be punched back out the holder should needs be.. Time to fit the bearing... Almost.. As the holder will have to be taken on and off MadTrax many many times, and a bit of drilling and grinding going on, rather than fit the bearing and risk it getting full of nasty stuff I made.... This fake bearing With a little bit of trimming to the inside half of the bearing holder a test fit was in order.. It's rather tight on one of the engine mounts, but it fit's Looks like the sprockets can be made to line up Now the big one... Will the shaft from the transfer box to the front fit without hitting anything and how tight will the UJ angles be? It fit's and the UJ angles are well under 33'degrees, if I remember right the rear UJ angle is about 12'D and the front is a tad over 20.. Much better than it used to be It's tight but there is plenty of clearance The bearing holder was drilled and a tapped so the two bit's could be bolted together.. A clean up on the lather later and the bearing was pressed in.. I couldn't of been happier with the fit of the bearing Fitted.. Just out of view behind the holder is a couple of tack welds just to hold the holder in the right place.. and yes the spocket is free to move at the moment as I don't know quite how far up/down the shaft it needs to go. Now onto the fun part.. Getting the 90'd drive in the right place.. Which is where the bit of angle that is bolted to the drive will come in handy. If you look behind the air filter you can just see 3 more bit's bolted to the drive case.. The go up and get clamped to a couple of bit's of box.. This will hold things steady and give me enough adjustment to adjust it's postition. But before I square the drive up I need to make the last bit of the drive puzzle and fit a sprocket and bearing to the hollow shaft that's coming out of the drive.. That should keep me busy tomorrow

Thanks. Will get you fixed up.

... well, what's left of one. Someone painted over the serial decal, but I flaked off the paint and I believe it is 9337. It has a ton of issues - especially the transmission. Here's how it looked when I got it Thursday. This morning I removed all the homemade add-ons then degreased and power washed.

Great Horse! Great save! Grandsons (short legged ones) love the automatic. The footrests on the Horse Junkie71's has me wondering? Perhaps some had the extruded drain holes in the footrests?

I AM IN NORWALK, CT. AND IT WAS BAD HERE. WE ARE GOOD BUT MANY TREES AND WIRES DOWN. RUSS

Did a few. I used a 7/8" construction reamer and a drill. inserted 7/8 OD x 3/4 ID bronze bushings. Drilled a hole in the bushings for the grease zerk too

If you have play in the spindles, you really only have tree options. 1. live with it. 2. find a front axle with no slip. 3. ream out the axle and insert bushings, perhaps with new spindles as they also get worn when the axle starts to go.

WOW, those are nice. Guess I will need to make it to the BIG SHOW.

Nice! That looks like it will move a ton of air. Better than the original!

glad to see our man Dan is gonna have a collector card!!!! Dan—how did you decide on pics? You have a bunch of cool and varied machines! Can’t wait to see what Terry comes up with @WHX17 Jim we need to have @Rp.wh sign up for these and we would have the whole crew!

Yes a will live forever if properly maintained. It appears the dealer knows little about them if he didn't know an Onan from a Kohler! I did notice a significant accumulation of grass on top of the transmission which will impact cooling, that needs to be addressed regularly. The heads of the engine also require inspection from time to time for a build up of grass clippings. Cooling flow on Onans is the primary problem. It can result in expensive valve problems. Before considering buying this I would ask the dealer to perform a compression test on both cylinders with you present, they should be within 10% or less of each other.

@WHX17, I'll have to measure it and let you know. I'm only about 1/2 way through the truck. I'll try to get back in there one day this weekend. I also got a counter top stand with manuals from the late 50's to the 70's - dealer item. I hope to be able to start posting for sale items in the Big Show thread sometime next week. I've got to sell some stuff to finance the purchase😉!

Hi Tom, to the . A 1990 416H with less than 1K hours and a good 48" deck is a good tractor capable of turning the deck, a snow blower or tiller. The $1k price is a tad high for my area, but may not be too bad in NY. The dealer does not sound too informed and when you inform him it is a 28 YO tractor instead of the 10 and it does not have a Kohler, you have some bargaining chips. The P216 Onan and the Eaton 1100 transmission should serve you well. I test all hydros I buy by attaching them to a tree and make sure they will spin the wheels without any hesitation. The tractor and deck appear to be in good condition, but I wonder about the maintenance when I see a bird nest of grass under the seat. Does the dealer have any info on the owner or the tractor maintenance? My guess is the $2K big box tractor will die long before the 28 YO 416.

Terry I would like to claim one of the places that are left. Here are my pics. Thank you so much for doing this for us.

I find a tapered pin punch works well.

@bmsgaffer This is the fan I am hoping to use. I have an oil filter wrench that I am turning down for a hub to fit inside the fan. Going to cut out the center of the fan so the fan slides over the pulley snout and then I will epoxy the “hub” inside the fan to make it all one piece. The bolt will go through the center and rest on the pulley snout like the original. Crossing my fingers

A friend of mine asked me to come over and plow her rather large garden. I’m really busy right now, BUT not too busy for some seat time on GhostRider with a Brinly in tow! I gave a shout out to my local circle buddies and Dan @Achto decided to bring out his newly restored Raider. We had a great time turning earth! I had added the front wheel weights and decided to plow with the Punisher which may have been a little ambitious given the damp soil and plowing uphill one direction! However, GhostRider handled it fine. spun a little here and there but —MAN—did it feel good to be back in the saddle! So thankful to Dan for coming out and playing in the dirt with me, we finished just ahead of the rain. Can’t wait to do more plowing with all my plowing buddies. More story, pics and video in Dan’s resto thread for his Raider...

Thanks to all it is my second one I have restored. This 101 is my favorite. I did a 312-A and my neighbor at the lake wanted it so I sold it. Funny he mowed grass with it come over and gave me cash. Here is the 312-A. Thanks to all

Here are 3 PDFs. I have included Motion Industries catalog numbers and the size of the bearings in each attachment. If you click on this link, it will bring up Motion Industries web site...type in their catalog number for the bearing or seal that you are looking for. It will give dimensions, a picture and an approximate price. You can also order online. Most of these bearings are also available from your TORO dealer and NAPA. Hope this helps... https://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/productCatalogSearch.jsp The 1st PDF is the WH # 5003 and 5010 RJ and 3 piece suburban transmissions. The 2nd PDF is the 3 and 4 speeds...WH # 5007, 5025, 5046, 5048, 5049, and 5053 transmissions. The 3rd PDF is the 6 and 8 speeds...WH # 5086, 5073, 5091, 103907, 103916, and 103918 transmissions. 1. UNI DRIVE TRANS 1.pdf 2. UNI DRIVE TRANS 2.pdf 3. UNI DRIVE TRANS 3.pdf Bearings and seals for a #5058 bevel gear transmission. differential carriage bearing (2) WH #1533 From Lowell outer axle bearing (2) WH #1526...KOYO #B-1816 outer axle seals (2) WH #1213...SKF #11050 mushroom gear rh WH#1532...KOYO #M-16121 mushroom gear lh WH#1530....KOYO #B-1612 seal brakeshaft WH#1232.....SKF #9815 cluster gear shaft bearing (2) WH#1529.....KOYO #M-12121 input shaft WH#1508 (1)...KOYO #B-1212 input shaft seal WH#1303....SKF #7410 spline shaft bearing WH#1531...KOYO M-10121 case gasket...#3912 Here ya go...KOYO is the same Torrington numbers. 5/8" input shaft seal 103916 transmission WH # 100442 = Timken 340387 = very similar to original seal. (SKF/CR 6105)

It was very bad here. My family and I are safe, no damages other than I had quite a large tree land across my driveway, but thankfully didn't hit any power lines. I've heard that we may be without power for the next 5 to 7 days. There are many trees down and many broken telephone poles. I guess we will see how long it takes! All is well, though.

I got a message yesterday from an amplifier, tube audio specialist who has worked on audio gear for me who lives in New Milford, CT........the home of one of our mods, I believe. @stevebo??? Here's his statement: "WEATHER UPDATE: A tornado blew through here about 4:42 this afternoon. There is widespread damage across much of Connecticut. The high school down the road lost part of its roof. We are fine here, but there is no power, no internet and no phone service. Lines are down *everywhere*. About every 50' there is a tree down across power lines. This is not the sort of outage that will be fixed in a few days. Could be a month, based on past experience. We are on generator power and will continue to work on amplifiers as usual. I'm using limited cellular data to post right now."

Well after checking everything it came down to a broken wire in the ignition harness, repaired it and it started right up. Now the next issue is that it idles great but runs like s#{? At higher rpms, I’ll start with checking spark at both plugs and regapping the points. Unless someone has another idea

These same files are listed as Commando 8 for our European members since the exported model names continued for a few years after they were changed for the North American market. The HS in the file name is for horizontal engine crankshaft. At the time some VS models used similar model names. Click on the pictures. Garry

Like Richard, I think you want to open it up. Flush it first to make the job nicer. There is a real good manual in the Manuals/Transmissions section to use along with the videos.

where I live in Connecticut, ever source handles power, and do a terrible job at it, glairing tree and maintenance issues are ignored .talking to line repair people , they fear termination over job/work ideas. crushing management mentality. you are smart to keep after area, good luck , pete

5/16/2018. 11:20 AM ,57 degrees. Cut, loaded, another leaner.

This link should bring up all the models. https://www.partstree.com/parts/search/models/?searchTerm=616-z Select your model and serial number. The next page that comes up is the parts list for that model. There is a box near the top center. Type the word switch in the box and search. All the switches will come up. If the one you need is priced it should still be available from any Toro dealer. Post the part number you need and will do some more searching for info on it. Garry

Yes, be careful. You don't need much, starting fluid can flash easily.

There is a roll or split pin that connects the shifter to the vertical shifter shaft. Wondering if you removed it and bent the shifter back where it goes on the shaft or perhaps it is already bent causing the problem. Garry

Thought I spotted a mistake. I posted that the RM-425 used blade set 100201. The original blade in 1965 was #5879 which was replaced by the 100201 3-blade set. The RL-426 in 1966 used blade #6693 which was replaced by 100200 3-blade set. This is correct if you use the mower blade charts published by Wheel Horse. There must have been a difference in the sets but likely insignificant. Garry

Well, I've started going through my truck to see what all I have. Lots of goodies in totes and boxes. A lot of this will come to the Big Show. I do want to keep the H-5 headlights though along with some other items. Even got never mounted rear axle bracket and sleeve hitch made by Lowell. One pic shows Emory's push mower. Rain stopped me for the night.

I concur with Dave. Removing the bearings just requires some force using a long screw driver or other implement. Then replacement is simply tap in new bearing.

The anti-icing system is just a mater of relocating the air intake to have hot air from the engine going to the air intake, nothing special about the filter. I see you are in South Carolina. If you have an Agri Supply store near by they can fix you up. https://www.agrisupply.com/searchcenter.aspx?keyword=235116+kohler&prv=&adv=&hawkb=

This is a Stens dealer in Ontario Canada but it lists the original OEM numbers https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/viewproduct.asp?i=370&p=2 Garry

I just replaced the one on my 417-8... with a 312 that i shortened and bent the end on. lol looks good, works great! I got a generic one off eBay that I used on a different project..I wouldn't hesitate to get another

Was far too pretty outdoors... to leave your indoors today.

This post might be helpful.

It sounds that you are trying to stop by only using the brake pedal. That is not how it is designed to work. You must also engage the clutch pedal to stop the tractor.

Before and After. It was all worth it. It's like running a new Tractor. When we moved to the country in 1993 there was a Stihl dealer in Town that also sold New Wheelhorse's, I would go in there for Chainsaw parts I would look at the Horse's but at that time couldn't afford one. Now that I could afford one ,out of business. I did the next best thing. I finally have a New one !

When this project is complete perhaps you should ride it to get the metal from the scrap pile. The ride may not be good for the knees , but it would be fun.

A little more evolution. All Done. I think? I hope? Blasted and painted all rims. New tubeless Carlisles on rear. New tri-ribs and tubes up front. Added a Seat back and square pan seat with correct spring. 5 bolt hubs on rear. All new bushings in steering. Transaxle has all new seals and was flushed. Replaced shifter. Rewired entire tractor. New switches. New lights. New engine. New belts. New exhaust. New fuel lines, filter, and bowl. Added pulling hitch. Added mid mount. Gets expensive real fast. Gotta love those duals! Does anyone else get a smile on their face looking at these old round hoods?

719 hours is alot and fer 1000$ it is still to much im just sayin i wouldnt buy it fer that much with tht many hours on it