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After deciding I had enough Wheel horses (under duress from wife) I just could not resist and acquired this beauty with 147 hours from a member. With it there is a 48" deck and a 44" two stage blower all in the same condition as tractor. Of course all original paper work included. I had already also acquired a snow cab intended for it. As I left he asked me if there was anything else I was looking for. The only thing I could think of was " A nice place to stay?"

Caught this little boat sneaking by!

I'll be sure to get a video as soon as I get a chance to drop the plow in the ground. Installed the final piece today, my rear work light. It took a little searching but I finally found a LED light that I liked the looks of. Another thing that I like about this light is that the body is all aluminum instead of plastic. It's compact & has the look of a tractor light. Then there is the important part, brightness. After shutting down the lights in the shop for a visual, I'm pretty convinced that I should have enough light to work by. Here's a link, just in case anyone is interested in these lights. https://www.amazon.com/WEISIJI-Driving-Lights-Bicycle-Motorcycle/dp/B01M0OXEND/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524949562&sr=8-3&keywords=mini+driving+lights

that's a nice looking machine, restored or original paint? I just stuck a bolens ride a matic in the basement hopefully my wife doesn't notice

I made this stack from a piece of 2 1/2" pipe with a turn out. Although it looks like a strait pipe, I made a perforated baffle for the inside of it. I kept it a little taller in order to keep the exhaust out of my face. It has a nice deep sound but is just a little loader than I had wished for. A pic of the baffle that is inside.

Went to a yard sale this morning and found this... $70.00. Runs great. While talking to the seller, he told me that when he was a kid, his dad had owned a 753. Said the mower exited both the left and right side. They used it to cut inbetween the rows of their orchards. He wishes that he still had it. He said his favorite tractor thought was the 420LSE. So I invited him to the Wheel Horse show so he could reminisce. Don't know what I'm going to put the Honda on, but it's always nice to have a good spare around the shop.

Good morning boys—time to resurrect a thread. Unfortunately this one has A LOT of the old 3rd party hosting of pics, it is amazing to me how much that has changed in the last 5 years or so for the better. Anyway, everyone on here who knows me knows that I’m a dyed in the wool Plow Dog (meaning I love furrow plowing with GT’s) and so on a plow mule (a GT setup for furrow plowing) nothing looks cooler than a big set of AG’s on the back, Tri ribs on the front, and a vertical stack beside the hood (although vertical stacks look cool on non plow mule tractors too). Here’s just a couple of ours... This is my dad’s 875 that we call the Iron Horse—he has owned it for 43 years and he installed this IH farmall Cub stack when he restored it the first time in 1979. It is an authentic IH product and has been on the tractor nearly my whole life. I love the sound every time I hear it—takes me back to cutting lawn and working the ground and with it in the 1980’s. Also Dad’s tractor. His 953 that we call Clyde. I’m not sure if the origin (maybe @Shynon can chime in) but it is a mellow sound and looks cool with the rain flapper! My son Zach’s GT14. We call it Blackbeard. It has a Cub Cadet muffler off of an early 1970’s Cub. I cut off the upper bracket and we painted it Black at Zach’s request. Sounds mellow as well and have him the vertical stack he wanted soooo bad. I want to post my Local Circle buddies vertical stack tractors so bad right now but I’ll let them do that if they choose.

Wow. Guess I didn't realize that we were dealing in such "high finance" items

Put it next to the washer and dryer!

VICTORY!!!! The pipe wrench hammer approach didn't work partly because there isn't enough room for the jaw of a big wrench due to speed control disk and the block bump out for the governor. I just peeled off a layer of nipple . I didn't have the air hammer Achto recommend but I did have a fairly blunt punch. Hammered away with that no go. Got out the MAPP gas and heated it up hit it with more In-Force BG and went back to the air hammer. By now I had a nice dimple in the nipple and some more hammering she started to move!!! Thank you all very much!!!!

Here ya go... A pair of Bud's mufflers, custom tig welded piping/manifold flanges made to get them straight to each other. Bit of a healthy bark when the governor opens, but they work great. Here's the final product, painted with VHT header paint and a set of rain caps to boot - they help deflect the exhaust fumes away from me pretty well so far. Sarge

can’t wait to hear that thing Dan!!! @953 nut that is a super cool look for sure!

Harley Davidson mufflers work great.

I’ve posted pics of my spray setup before and I’ve never been happy with it. The sprayer is great but my father-in-laws carryall was too low and too big to spray effectively. It was so low that the spray width was only about 7’ wide when it hit the ground. Needless to say, I had to run at top speed to avoid using way too much product. That was hard on the tractor with all the weight and still applied too much product. To to remedy that I built my own carrier. Now it’s higher and tighter to the tractor and the spray width is almost 14’ wide. I used it last night and it worked much better. Plus, I was able to slow down to 2nd gear Hi range and I used about half the weed killer I used to use while getting good coverage. I plan to use this for other chores too. Time for final paint and it’ll be done.

do you have an 18" pipe wrench and a 3 lb. hammer ? did a lot of pipefitting as a millwright, you have the mechanical advantage if you set it up right. that nipple length and schedule will let you get a good solid pipe wrench bite on it. have the wrench sitting up at a 45 angle , that you will drive against with that 3 lb. hammer. do not drive down, on the very end of the wrench, that will bounce and waste your impact drive. the thick start of the pipe wrench taper , just under the barrel screw nut adjuster of the wrench is wear you want to drive your 3 lb. hammer. that very solid impact, on that very solid steel will move that nipple. done it many times, on much worse. that will do it , pete

Thank you to all my Red Square friends for the Happy Birthday wishes. I really appreciate it.

Doing just that!

Sidewall blow out for sure. I have a friend who runs a local U-Haul business, a couple of years ago I asked him about what type of tire they use on their trailers. He said the used Goodyear for years, they were specifically made for them. Then when Goodyear merged they discontinued that line, they now use Carlisle. He said sidewall blow out is the biggest problem with trailer tires, people put truck tires on trailers thinking if their made for a truck they should work just fine on a trailer. Truck tires are designed for a truck that has suspension, shocks, struts, and sway bars. On most smaller trailers used to haul 3000#s or less the tire is the suspension, trailers with a single axle have a lot more up and down (bouncing) and swaying going on at high speeds than a double axle trailer. This creates a lot of heat, to much and something has to give, usually the weakest link, the side wall. He said there are a lot of trailer tires out there some really good, some good and a lot of bad ones. U-Haul does a lot of testing when it comes to their trailers, they wouldn't use Carlisle if they didn't work best for them, think liability. They use Carlisle trailer tires ST, Bias, 4ply, load range D. He also said that a trailer with a lighter load, can cause a blow out more then one with a heavier load, more bouncing at speed. Your tire is your shock absorber on most light weight trailers, at highway speeds while not noticeable, the trailer is constantly bouncing and swaying, a lot of heat builds up, Boom . OOPS, I think I already said that, time to go do something else.

A welding shop that has access to a lathe could weld it up and turn the diameter back down to the correct specs - I do similar work here but not a lot of time right now. Sarge

I have broken a Kohler engine block removing the exhaust pipe using brute force, just fyi... The easiest solution I've found - cut it internally with a sawzall blade, taking your time not to go too deep but get it down into the threads a bit. Once it's cut, clock you pipe wrench so the bottom jaw is just ahead of the cut, then screw it out. The wrench will start to collapse the pipe at the cut, allowing the pressure/rust to release and the easily screw right out. Be careful and take your time with the cutting part - the steel pipe is a tougher material than the cast iron block, once you go through the pipe you can seriously damage the engine. I've done at least 20 engines this way, some are left with a very slight cut into the threads but by the time you use a pipe tap to clean up the rust and gunk from the hole, it's gone or so slight that it's not a problem. Just a tip... Sarge

It's a cub cadet muffler from Tulsa engine warehouse, just cut the tip straight and cut of the bracket. Yes I agree I like the sound @WHX17 has one on the 702 also. IMO the height is correct for a garden tractor.

Thanks. I’m kind of a nut when it comes to the yard. My boys have a lawn business too. Any cheap generic fertilizers will do. This is what I do: Fall: Sept - aerate, K31 overseed, and fertilizer Nov - last mow after frost if possible Spring: Roll lawn at first spring thaw March - fertilizer w/crabgrass prevention April - spray 2,4D for weeds May - fertilizer w/crabgrass prevention Early June - spray 2,4D for weeds July - OPTIONAL grub killer i got away from doing it for a few years because of time and money. Now I use it as an excuse to work the Horses.

I have a couple I will throw in the truck. If someone wants them not great one has a dent the other needs repaired at the right coil mount. If someone can use them. Gratis

Rolling the lawn while cleaning the carb!

sweet ride but I'm sorta partial to those ...now you need a set of these to compliment that beauty, Jeff.

May as well become accustomed to it, as our economy improve there will be price increases everywhere. Of course our government bean counters will say there is no inflation so there is no need for a cost of living increase in my Social Security, however the Medicare payment they deduct from it will go up due to cost increases? ? ? ?

Happy Birthday @56servi and @Fun Engineer, we are glad you were born!

Ok That sounds like a good deal to me Jay.

Try some Seafoam in the gas & a good workout. That might take care of the surging.

Couple of belt guards and some Kohler motor tins. Trade for a hot dog and coke at the concession stand,

Good afternoon Horse fans! I got bored and power washed the garbage find C195. I found this over a month ago and now have the itch to repaint this summer and find decals. Any advice on color and paint brand is welcome. I also washed Raider 14 and think it will be painted first but needs wiring and find correct decals too. It had bold white letter like the no names had. The people that gave me the C195 saw it today and can't believe it runs/mows and moves. I was told it was junk and have rocks in my head for wanting to keep it. Now that it's operating again, them people want it back. Lol. No, too bad. The gravel in my head won't move. Long story short, this was my great grandfathers tractor. It was sold in 91 at his auction when I was 12 and kept track of it for 27 years. Sadly it sat outside after it left our farm but now is back in the same shed when delivered in 82. Thank you all for the help with everything so far! Any information, advice on paint and decals is welcome. Have a great day and enjoy Horsing around! 🎉😊

Thanks for the welcome everyone. I've been doing some searching and reading before I did my first post. Seems like a very friendly and helpful forum 👍

Is the casing thick enough to drill and tap for a drain plug, when the transmission is out?

Yes a 1985. I live out in the country and most the land I have is bumpy. The bigger wheels make her ride much better

After checking the plugs, they were capped at .045”! So I recapped them to .025”. I sprayed more B12 Chemtool thorough all the carb passages. I checked the fuel pump. There was a bunch of crud behind it, and the vacuum hose was loose. So I fixed both of those situations. I then moved the fuel filter from between the pump and carb to between the tank and pump. So then I fire it up, and now it runs with the choke open. Yay! But it still seems weak. I look at the plugs. One is firing, and one is not. I do a compression test, and both cylinders are at just under 120 psi. So it looks like I am off to get done new plugs!

Thank you for the great additional ideas. I was beating on the end of the pipe wrench. Will try Peter's idea. Also going to get one of the hammer bits. This is not the first nor probably the last exhaust nipple I will play with, and i really do not like destroying them.

Picked this up at swap meet today. PO said it came out of a Chevrolet dealer in Montana. Never seen one, I'm thinking early 60's. Anybody with any info appreciated.

Thanks Tom—when you get a chance can you post a favorite pic of “the Machine” and tell us about that great sounding stack?

If worst case comes about, I would gladly trade that Onan for a Kohler Magnum!

If all else fails you should be able to more than double the asking price by parting it out.

Nice find! With the two eyelets in the top edge, it's probably meant to hang somewhere. It's not specifically a light-up sign, but they could be set up creatively to catch light. I've seen signs like that placed in a window -- in the evening, the lights inside the building would tend to make it show up. Not as bright as a self-illuminated sign, but still noticeable. Another trick was to hang them up over counters, just in front of the overhead fluorescent lights. They'll pick up some of the indirect light that way.

I wonder the same thing!

By no means a New Ship. USS Bonhomme Richard LHD-6 commissioned in 1998. Amphibious Assault Ship that hauls an MEU around the the Far East looking and protecting our interests. Was lucky enough to spend a few months on board. She used to be home ported in Sasebo, Japan. Pretty nice home port.

Click on each picture Garry

Its tough!! Even when nuttins floating by I stare out the window

https://www.upi.com/US-Navys-USS-America-completes-survivability-test/9541491329674/ http://www.navy.mil/navydata/fact_display.asp?cid=4200&ct=4&tid=400

I got mine from Snap On many years ago. A quick search tuned this up. https://www.amazon.com/Smoothing-Pneumatic-Hammer-Diameter-Extended/dp/B00PIF0KVG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524869042&sr=8-3&keywords=air+chisel+hammer+bit&dpID=416hh0%2Be8tL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch Many more options on the same site. Here is another source. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200658883_200658883?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Air Tools %2B Compressors > Air Tools %2B Accessories&utm_campaign=Ingersoll Rand&utm_content=154422&gclid=CjwKCAjwlIvXBRBjEiwATWAQIoHgt-Qm_ndIWhTWmMUCX4oErmcGCyDBo6PU3JyyJEpZKRjzzuvS2BoCP28QAvD_BwE

Welcome to Red Square and the addiction.I have taken the Anti pills but they don't help. So I am doomed. Marv

Here is a meathead for removing exhaust nipples that works every time for me. If you have an air chisel, use it to vibrate the exhaust nipple. A hammer head bit in the chisel will work the best for this. After you have soaked the pipe with penetrating fluid, work around & around the pipe with the air chisel. This vibration will loosen the rust on the threads and you will eventually be able to turn it out with a wrench. My toughest one took about 25 min of vibrating.