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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/05/2018 in all areas

  1. 18 points
    Just finished my winter project. I also restored the plow blade, now I'm going to look for some attachments.
  2. 11 points
    Just wanted to see what they looked like on a round hood. These are 24x12-12. Don't worry, I pot the correct tires back on
  3. 7 points
    I was at work today and a snowblower that looked familiar to me was l@@king at me from behind a garage. The home owner came out of his house and we started chatting. I asked him if that was a wheel horse snowblower. He said yes I asked him if he wanted to sell it. We went behind the garage and it was attached to a Toro H520. He said if I wanted it I could have it. Said it ran a year ago but I have my doubts. Any how I think I can harvest some parts off it. I have older modle wheel horse's 71 and 73. I cant find a modle number on it so i have no idea what year it would be. Anyone have a idea? Also is there a bypass for the pump somewhere so I don't ruen the pump pushing it around not running?
  4. 7 points
    I see nothing wrong in parting out a that is commonplace and can provide needed parts for another's project. what bothers me is when a complete running tractor that someone could have enjoyed is sold to a "collector" that turns out to be a scrapper who p-arts it out. I have rescued a few, the first one was with me at last year's Big Show, the second is being restored and the third is being kept dry for a future project. All of these were slated for parting out or scrapping. I couldn't fault the previous owner's thoughts on them. I'm just glad the were willing to sell them to me.
  5. 7 points
  6. 6 points
  7. 6 points
    As I am working on my last tractor for a while to sell. I had a thought. Of all the production #`s made of these fine tractors. I am thinking mostly 1950`s 60`s and 70`s and maybe 80`s models. How many where saved for the scrap yards. I do know people that have contacts in scrap yards for pick ups when people bring them in. And I think this web site has a lot to do with it. Every time i sell one or meet people I mention this site some times I get [a Really a web site dedicated to the these tractors} So this begs the question how many do you think are saved every day do impart to this web site and scrap yard contacts? Thanks for any response. Enjoy the ride and your day.
  8. 6 points
    Another thing to think about is those of us that do the math and decide to part the tractors. It’s kinda like organ donation. One parted horse can save 10-15 others. Without good quality used parts the hobby would suffer. I think we all saw what happened with cash for clunkers with antique cars.
  9. 5 points
    I have earned a little more shop time after doing some honey do remodeling. After 2 weekends of rearranging and reorganizing my shop I have room to work again so I put the 854 hoods on the table and started by removing rusted out trim pieces. shop before After Hood trim removed.
  10. 5 points
    I used to creep this site before I joined it. I inherited a work horse 700 that was my grandfathers and that got me into the hobby. I was 14 at the time and always like tractors, but like most 14 year olds, I didn't know much about the mechanics of them. I don't remember the year i found this site, but I bought a 401 wheel horse in 2006 and i think it was sometime around then, maybe 2007. Anyway I creeped on this site for years reading threads and gaining knowledge on how to fix these horses. I gained more and more confidence and ability to fix them and eventually gained enough confidence to start saving what i would call basket case horses. Frozen transmissions, stuck engines, stubborn steering wheels lol. I would say that it is totally because of this website that I came to save the horses! I had bought my first tractor at age 12, a running driving 74 john deere 110 (please forgive me, although i still have that tractor) and inherited my first horse at age 14 and the collection of tractors that include both horses and other brands is now at 21. So I would say that this site is almost totally responsible for horses being saved by me. Just don't tell my wife that! Why did i not join RedSquare until 2013 you ask? Quite simply, young people do stupid things sometimes!! lol
  11. 5 points
    Happy Birthday @Sparky, we are all glad you were born!
  12. 4 points
    Since the D uses the 3pt, needed to buildan adapter for using the rear blade or Brinly 10" plow on it. Worked out pretty well, but the pins are too weak to keep it tight to the A-frame. Probably switch to bolts, wanted it easy to move for offset work but they bend too easily. Simple but effective is what I'm after. Got a lot of rock pulled back out of the yard, still have to re-grade the parking lot and do some raking. Buddy brought his Kubota BX series over with the front sweeper and cleaned up the other areas but this section was just too thick. Amazing how much rock the D can move at once, need to get the rear box scraper built this spring. Sarge
  13. 4 points
    The auction site had this on there and I was bidding on it. Just getting ready to place my final bid and the computer froze. AGHH! Probably my only chance of getting one of these but oh well. Hope someone here got it.
  14. 4 points
    I accidentally put this battery pic in my commando thread, but the charger is the one that has the clearance issue with the briggs motor and the steering... So I built a riser tray to bring it up 3" past the engine case bolts and steering gear. It just barely "shoe horns" in there. I finished cleaning up the wiring almost. When the motor was swapped before someone added a starter solenoid & there just is no where to mount it at all & I didn't want to put it under the seat and run all the lines back there. Its a pretty compact tractor. Anyway now it starts right up & drives, pretty slow but it goes up and down hills. My tires are full of washer fluid so it has pretty good traction .... Next i need to find an original gas tank or im gonna paint the one i robbed from a craftsman, or get one at the junk yard, it does not compliment the engine bay. Also I want to paint the wheels white, because I am pretty sure that would be the correct color. Only other issue is when i shut it down the exhaust always pops right as the motor is stopping, I am going to try to shut off the fuel next time maybe & see if that helps
  15. 4 points
    I see you use the standard "primer" for all paint jobs - That can of Busch peaking out of the corner in photo #3... I'm cheap - Kirkland Light for me... Nice job on the painting as well!!!
  16. 4 points
    Good deal. Just don't set the gap to that three tenths of an inch.
  17. 4 points
    Well I got all the cleared parts that could be assembled done today! Just got to fix the hood and finish engine up. I suppose I'll probably give the rims a good sanding and fresh coat well I'm at it.
  18. 4 points
    Gary, great topic. I have no way of knowing, but I have saved my share of Wheel Horses. I saved a C195 about 8yrs. ago that spent some time in the shallows of a pond. These small tractors are easy to work on compared to there competition. I didn't start collecting and restoring these tractors till I was 55yrs old. So a word to the young fellows out there, start now.
  19. 3 points
    My axles?.... Well all they need is to have the key ways and the hole welded shut, true them back up on the lathe, then cut new key ways on the mill. So you know, about average.
  20. 3 points
    Its all good. The smell was me needing a shower.
  21. 3 points
    Needs a parachute and bars!
  22. 3 points
    Hey Joe...the shifter you are looking for is a Wheel Horse #3577. It has one bend, just above the boot, toward the front and is straight the rest of the way up. I may have one in the garage, but I really do not want to get rid of it. I would bet @A-Z Tractor has one, or we could get one from the Big Show in June...if you are not in a huge hurry. Let me know what you think.
  23. 3 points
    Well since it is finally starting to warm up I have been able to get some work done on the 656. I also have a new motor with new rings and gaskets that needs to be honed and put together that I will do sometime this spring. The body however cleaned up very nicely and I have most of the painting done and will clear coat it this spring. I fixed some of the dents but it isn't perfect and I taped off the old decals because there were in excellent shape and I wanted to have some of the original look to it. Should finish up most of the paint tonight and reassembly tomorrow so I can get the cars back in my newly red floored garage.
  24. 3 points
    Mike better late than never. Enjoy the projects.
  25. 3 points
    Yes Elliot I do enjoy my self. It is always a crowed pleaser When you see a vintage tractor.
  26. 3 points
    Conversion chart for ISO, AGMA, SAE oils: 40 weight engine viscosity is equivalent to 85-90 SAE gear oil. Gear oils have additives for the high pressures seen in the gear mesh. Hence the awful smell!
  27. 3 points
    Dan, Nason does offer a hardener and I did ask about, but he assured me this is exactly the same he used on his that he restored and uses, so I figured I'd give it a go on the Cub since it is only used minimally anymore, Jeff.
  28. 3 points
    Got some parts in and a few more small things painted / prepped and ready for paint. Decided to go with black for the rims.
  29. 3 points
    I used Nason 421-10 2k urethane primer on my sheet metal. Urethane primers allow you to fill minor imperfections with out haveing them show up later on down the road due to shrinking, a known issue when using lacquer primer. It's been a while since I've sprayed any Nason top coats. Does Nason offer a gloss hardener for that paint? If they do I would suggest using it, it will increase the scratch/chip resistance as well as the chemical resistance. Your jobber might be able to suggest a hardener, if Nason does not offer one. I know Mar-hyde makes a "wet look" hardener for acrylic enamel. Here's a pic of the system I use. I've had good luck with the paint system, it usually comes in under Nason on the price. You can spray this paint without using the hardener, but i prefer to use it. I wish that Vansickle offered a Urethane primer, but no dice there. The quart of black in the pic points toward what I did today. A few parts received some black paint today, now I should be able to put the spray equipment away. For this resto at least.
  30. 2 points
    What was said above let it idle down for a bit first. Make sure it is not idling to fast also. Some of those had the anti-backfire solenoid on the carb also. Can't see if that one has one.
  31. 2 points
    953 nut already bought it, lol.
  32. 2 points
    Never know what you may find at the show.
  33. 2 points
    I will be picking up a very nice 953 at the Big Show which is a whole lot better for a couple hundred less.
  34. 2 points
    Oops, just saw it and looked at the location.
  35. 2 points
    The Spec number for your engine is 4712B presuming it is the engine that came with the tractor.
  36. 2 points
    I have been watching that 1054 on eBay for about a week now. It is really close to me and it was a great deal but I have 3 unrunning wheel horses and another all torn apart so I just can’t buy another one right now. I definitely really want to get a 1054 or 953 in the future though. @19richie66 sorry to hear bout your computer freezing. I was hoping someone on RS would get the 1054 but oh well.
  37. 2 points
    Nevermind, I found it
  38. 2 points
    @WHX14 ....Dive and drive! I've worked on a a few of those.
  39. 2 points
    Here's my thoughts - Many of us have added a second set screw 90 degrees from the original. Since the key ways are bad on my hubs, I was thinking of cutting a new key way 90 degrees to the original and adding the set screw to lock on the key. The original set screw would then become the second/back up screw. Any thoughts pro or con welcome on this idea. I do plan on cutting the axles for full length keys. I'm still working on getting a new set of steel hubs made, my CNC guy is kind of a slacker though. Hence the hold up on some ones sickle parts. I probably should have traded you my tranny & a rebuild kit for the tranny you have Jim. Would have saved me some work,
  40. 2 points
    Picked up another GT-14 today! Not in too bad of shape other then the previous owner hacked up the wiring quite a bit. I am in need of a wiring diagram to completely redo it. Currently I can get it to crank over but no spark
  41. 2 points
    Thank you, definitely converting to points soon
  42. 2 points
  43. 2 points
    Sorta sounds like you answered your own question there. IMHO: Easy enough to pop the hood off and paint it. ... use the tractor for the season. ...then do the rest when you have more time.
  44. 2 points
    RMR3261 deck weights approx. 62lbs. for reference
  45. 2 points
    I was able to get the sheet metal sprayed today. Jim @WHX14 stopped by to help with some wet sanding & get some observation time in on the painting. Always great to hang out with friends like Jim, hopefully I was an ok teacher for him. I should have taken some in process pics of the wet sanding process, sorry. I had sprayed a mist coat of flat black ( cheap $.98 spray bomb from Wal-Mart) over the gray primer, this helps greatly when wet sanding. When the black paint is sanded off the the part has been completely sanded. Jim got a pic of the parts after they were wet sanded with 400grit, washed with preps all, tacked off and ready for paint. Apparently he also was able to get an action shot of me spraying. Of course safety equipment is a must when spraying paint. Plus it helps cover ones face so that cameras are not damaged. A couple pics after the sheet metal was painted. 2 coats of paint on the inside of the parts, 3 coats on the out side. A closer pic of the hood to show off the gloss of the VanSickle acrylic enamel paint. This pic was taken about a hour after painting. Decals also came in this week, Terry @Vinylguy does such great work. I can't wait until I'm ready to put the decals on the tractor. I was able to put the finishing touches on my plow though. One more color to spray, then I can start putting things together. No wait, I have some axle repair to do yet.
  46. 2 points
    I also made a front stabilizer to prevent left to right movement and to stop the frame from hitting the front axle.
  47. 1 point
    Yep, and another next Monday.
  48. 1 point
    Always! Thanks Dan for letting me watch. I did manage to learn a thing or two. On the way home I swung by TSC to see if about a battery for the ATV and I noticed they had less $$ paint supplies there. Probaly not the quality stuff you guys are using but good enough for a painting newbie to play with. Start out by doing non stuff like tubs and decks and other stuff that doesn't have to be show quality and going to get banged up again anyway. I get the impression even being a half a$$ed painter is a lot like being a decent welder.....practice practice practice! The only down side I would see as to broaching new keyways 90 deg. in your shot hubs is you wouldn't have the (little bit?) of extra strength boss where the original set screw is. If a guy is going to go through the trouble of broaching existing shot hubs that might be questionable (hidden cracks) one might just make new hubs out of steel? Were you thinking about full length on the axles? Would the full length on the axle be in the same spot as the woodruff cut? If so could the existing set screw be used for the backup set screw? I do have that 5060 I got from @Terry M that is ready to go with full length keys already cut in.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Old condensers are prone to breaking down over time. A new one will be inexpensive insurance.
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