Leaderboard

As y'all know I recently bought a 12x32 portable garage. Figured I would start a thread for my progress in getting it finished and set up to work in. Today's project is painting the floor. One reason for this is to protect the floor from water and oil spills, other reason for this is light...the painted floor will make it look larger and make it easier to see while working on things. this is how it came delivered

I was supposed to be working on it this weekend but the tile guy fudged my order. Had to get it somewhere else. So no tile this weekend. Dang it.... now I have to work on the tractor. 😎

Happy Birthday @ztnoo, we are all glad you were born.

Thanks for all the interest. I have decided that I am going to open the doors here at 4201 Carlisle Rd Gardners, Pa 17324 starting in December. They will be open Thursday - Saturday. Hours Thursday and Friday 9-5 Saturday 8-1. I have also decided to restart under a new company name Red Barn Lawn and Snow will be the name on the sign out front. The Wheel Horse parts are mine personally and so they will remain a hobby and sold accordingly. Any interest in stopping by, feel free. Hope this helps.

Could you open your doors say Thursday-Sunday during the show ? I’m sure there would be plenty of us Horse-A-Holics that could make the ten minute drive to see your plethora of parts.

The '88 and '89 520s had the motion control on the console where it always worked very well. Beginning in '90, they moved it to the steering column where, in my experience, it was not as smooth and was more difficult to use. The lever has to be lifted before it can be moved forward and I found the shaft would bind preventing the up/down movement of the lever. I only keep the hydros with the console mounted levers. Also makes it easy to install my red neck foot control system.

Simple check, but you can't move the linkage with the brake on. A few months ago a member had a 5xi that had trouble moving the linkage, It had been sitting outside and mice had made a home under the fender. You may have a similar situation. Unfortunately the cab will need to be removed to get the fender off. I would start by checking the linkage at the dash. Take the panels off to observe. it has the notch that must be overcome to move from reverse to forward. Make sure that is not binding and work your way to the rear. If all of that is working properly, unbolt the fender to check under there.

I agree, backwards. The input pulley should be hugging the transmission case. It looks like it's offset in the picture but you said it wasn't so if that's the case it's the wrong pulley.

It looks like the pulley is on backwards.

Finishing this bathroom.

On the hood I'm going to paint everything else with the red metallic, just the original recessed area will be black. On the rear fenders, I'm going to carry the black insert idea over to the fender tops. I'm going to wrap the black all the way around the fenders across the taillight area in the back. I plan to use the black on the shift plate/cover and the vertical piece under the dash. Just trying to make it a little different for Emory, so it will be all his. I also had @Vinylguy customize a set of his carbon fiber look decals for me and they are awesome! Terry's work never disappoints!

Came in with a pounding headache, but needed to get the metallic black laid down since it is lacquer based and has to go down before the red and clear enamel. Now to try to mount the rear tires if I have enough energy so I can paint the rims (I'd mar them up if I painted them before mounting the tires). Oh, there's a rear fender surprise coming - a little twist on Terry's flat black fender decals.

I have used torx bits to get stripped allen hex screws out. May have to drive it in also. Cobalt drill bit at very slow speed as a final attempt.

Couple signs here too Scott.

Are the threads stripped or just the sunken Allen hex and your wrench is spinning inside it? If the latter sometimes an "easyout" in the stripped hex will grab and spin it out or try the next size Allen key and tap in with a hammer works as well if not to tight, Jeff.

got one coat of paint on the floor today...going to put another on Thursday...didnt get a picture of the whole thing painted...too windy to open the overhead door. Will get more pics when I can

Hope this helps some. Glenn

You may as well begin by building shelves to store future projects on, double-decker .

Recently had good results using a cheap kit like this one found on Ebay. PM'd you the link. ...

I'm going to have to store this one somewhere in the memory files. No honey. I know you wanted gray. I know he sent us brown. No I had nothing to do with it. If you need me I'll be in the workshop.

Same parts manual for 1988 and 1989 518-H Garry

I believe it's a 102742 =1/2"x103" or "HA103" for my '95 and '97 520H/48"SD combo, haven't bought 1 for awhile, Jeff.

looks like a voltage regulator to me. What kind of engine are we looking at???

jack and club some Onan information for you. the BF, BG, B43M, B48M, B43G, and B48G ALL used the same camshaft, ( cast # 170-3140 ) these engines range from 40.3 to 47.7 CID. ( BG 49.8 CID ) HP range from 16 to 20 HP. NOTE the BF block will not accept the longer stroke crank, ( 2 7/8" 3.0" without machine work inside the crankcase ) the P 216, P 218 use the 170-4100 cam. the p 220 cam is 170-4101. it is the HOTTEST camshaft of ALL the # listed. CARB'S are another thing. a 20 HP will have a larger carb the a 16 HP. LAST the P 16,18,and 20 all use the same cylinder heads. they ARE FAR better than any of the others. thank you. boomer ( the used onan engine parts guy, also NOS and new )

yes it was, but now I realize that I lifted up the tractor by the hitch on back to put the stands under axle, maybe something happened then I don't know. thanks I hope. thanks very helpful, I checked it out today and it seems fine, I will continue up towards steering column. I just had a idea if I was to remove that link could I test the transmission manually by moving the gear with pliers to see in tranny works like it should.

Very jealous! Looks like a great place to do some tinkering.

Happy Birthday evening since it is late in the date here or early morning in Australia , which makes this greeting a day late.

Going to make for one very nice stable.

A cunning plan.

If stubborn, use caution pulling that cast pulley off. Use NO three jaw pulllers here.

@ztnoo, have a great day.

If I ever have a question as to potential quality issues with a part from McMaster - I call one of the service reps . They can forward via email or even web links as to the details of anything they carry - including where something is manufactured . I do remember running into a liquid dampened pressure gauge that they sent was Chinese - seemed well made but was about as accurate as a wild azzed guess at best . They sent a pre-paid ticket for pickup and credited my account immediately - there had been a change in suppliers and US made one was substituted with the import . They had sourced the correct one somewhere else and it arrived 2 days later , no additional cost on my end - that is great customer service . I did have one major problem other than that - it was a supply of different sized lead shot for doing carb work . I needed it for sealing the drilled circuits in Weber carbs due to some coming in with defects and debris in those circuits . Redline ate a big penalty for that batch and they ended up paying for all the correction work . When the lead was shipped though McMaster didn't seal those plastic jars very well nor were they packaged tightly enough to survive being handled by UPS . Two full jars of those little lead alloy balls ended up all over my local driver's truck - and all over his hands . Now , not being pure lead they contained a certain percentage of antimony and selenium - both of which are really poisonous to humans . I hauled his butt inside and had him wash his hands and face immediately - the truck had to go back to their terminal with the balls still rolling around and the rest of it's load still inside . UPS called a cleanup/HAZMAT company to handle the truck and get the rest of it's load off for the next day delivery . I talked to McMaster while the driver was still here and explained their error and what it had done to the driver - they handled the whole thing with UPS directly after that point . Next shipment , 2 days later arrived boxed up much better but one container was broken although everything stayed in the box . Far as I know they do not sell those anymore due to the nature of the hazards in handling those lead shot - plastic jars just can't stand being shipped very well . If anyone needs lead shot for doing carb circuits - let me know , probably still have at least 6 different sizes here in some pretty good quantities - yours for the cost of shipping . Yes , I will send them safely , lol ... Sarge

Believe me it doesn’t take long ... but I’d trade my whole collection including my 84 C10 short bed and the Kubota for that 70 Chevelle. My first car was a 67 Malibu when in was 15 . I never even got to drive it . Sold it for a Escort to drive to college.... Now that’s one I wish I still had .

Is the pulley on backwards? I tried to snap a pic of the one on my 854 but it's kinda dark. If you flip it it might sit closer to the the tranny and allign better.

The site achto shows is a good source as is ebay. A word of caution here, parts for these big twins - like your K532 - are getting scarce ---- especially CONNECTING RODS! Its very possible you will need machine shop work what with the engine running low on oil, bore job to clean up the cylinders and regrind the crankshaft, etc. Before you start buying parts determine what work will need to be done . IE: if your crank needs turned then you will need rods and they just may not be available!! In the last couple yrs I have needed a rod for each of my 18 and 20hp twins, I ended up faithfully prowling ebay and after a few weeks was lucky enough to find them used -- and these were in standard size! You may well need undersized..

Just a bit of an update, took the tire with the damaged bead areas and the wheel to Best One Tire service center. They dismounted, cleaned and applied some bead sealer prior to remounting and inflating. Temporarily mounted hubs and tire/wheel assemblies to axles to get a couple pics. First is Dual hubs on axles the second one is all 4 temporarily mounted. P.S. Right fender is slightly off level because I did not have the under fender support bolted on.

My winter shop project is having a new shop built! Going from a 22x30 to a 40x60.

does getting your shop set up for work qualify as a wintertime shop project??? that will be my main objective to start with...then maybe move on to other projects. I know ive got some Freon tank piggy banks to get built before Christmas for some of the younger family...crap that's right around the corner I better get busy

I am a firm believer that it is your Wheel Horse and you should feel free to build it your way.

One thing to remember...the Wheel Horse Collectors Club (WHCC) holds, sets up and runs the Big Show. Red Square has nothing to do with the WHCC...except that we have members on both sides. Red Square could not set up an auction if they wanted to...you need to go to the WHCC web site and really ask that question there.

Here is a pic of the rubber strip I use to keep the cab from rubbing the hood paint. The round thingy is the magnet that holds it in place.

Hi Guys, I was just given a D250 with an Ark loader. Its a pretty sweet score, little rough around the edges but its all there. The previous owner was neither a mechanic, nor an electrician so I'm in the process of cleaning everything up. Someone has sawzalled the governor in half and gutted it, not sure why. They removed the fan and mounted an electric fan to the radiator. Should I replace it? There are a few reasonable ones on Ebay. I want to get it back up and running first, but I assume the previous owner ran it this way. There's no oil in it anymore and I'm assuming its run off some gears or a chain in the front cover? Any help is appreciated, I'm not too sure how this one works and how necessary it is. Thanks Chris

hope you have a wonderful day

Not sure that "toy" is the right word as it all comes down to what do you want. From the size of the unit, I'd kid you and say you want a hernia but if you're really looking to hurl snow out of your driveway and all you need to do is hitch it up, go for it. Sometimes I feel it all comes down to how much time do you want to spend doing something. All of us have a tendency to buy just what we need as $$$ doesn't grow on trees. A unit like this would might let you buzz though 3 inches of snow in 4 gear and get the driveway done in 10 minutes and it certainly will handle the occasional 1 to 2 feet. Good luck - Cod

Another abandoned one here... pulled from a field, trans frozen solid, full of water. Been mowing the lawn here, past two years now.

Is this a Wheel Horse engine? If so, I don't think any Wheel Horse K241 had a long dip stick and tube, just a screw-in type. I don't know if you can see the counter-weights on the crankshaft by taking the camshaft cover off, but if so, the K301 has flat bottoms on the counter-weights and the K241 is round.

I hope everyone will say yes. Because that is one of my biggest projects.