Leaderboard

Never saw one before so I had to build it. 200 lbs of rocks and gouged out an old stump. No fail. The little son-of-a-buck wouldnt quit. I love it. The little LR will never plow a field but dont ever say its not robust enough for ground engagement. Thats nonsense. Just another example of how they built lawn equipment in the 60's. I have a bone stock LR from '66 that I would never change. Great to have both a Jekyll and a Hyde.

hi men, just used this homemade hub puller to pull the hub on my son-in-laws C161. i also used my snap-on ball joint press tool to remove the stuck drawbar pin. worked great!! regards mike in mass.

hi all, here is my son-in-laws C160. i put new front tires on with the roller chain idea. brand new plow converted from the cable angling system (which did not work very well) back to the tried and true wh coat hanger system. if i can fab this anyone can. my SIL wanted a chrome skull somewhere on the tractor so on the angle control handle it went. removed the battery box, sandblast,prime and paint. new black pipe manifold for the exhaust with custom harley stack. i fabbed a bracket to add support for the manifold. my buddy harry fabbed the counterweight support for the gym weights. it fits great in the "Hitch guys" receiver. (they are a vendor on this site and make a great product!) i added some metal wheel weights that i had powder coated. new diamond style chains for the rear. i replaced both axle seals, the tranny drive pulley shaft seal, the brake band shaft seal and fresh gear oil in the tranny. fresh oil in the engine and new air filter with prefilter installed. greased all zerks. i put on a new brake band from maynard and it stops on a dime! my bud mark painted the floorboards and belt cover. i added a couple decals from terry (another great vendor and product) and new floor board mats from another vendor (classic kitchens, great product!) special thanks to my bud phil for the pics. regards mike in mass.

Might be one of those "lurkers" that will join up when they have technical questions or have something they want to show off!

https://www.aumannvintagepower.com/project/details/9592/

It's my understanding that you have to be a member of WHCC to sell or show at the Big Show, but I don't know if they enforce it. Attendance is open to everyone. I just sold an RJ58 trans to a collector who apparently wasn't aware of Red Square. He said he took his wife to the Big Show once, and "she was freaked out by it", so he hasn't been back since. Next year, the Show is on my wife's birthday, and I already told her that I'm going to the show. I know I'll have to make it up to her somehow. I don't know how anyone can restore an old WH without all of the help available from the Red Square members.

With the pto ON the seat switch controls the ignition on most models. Check the wiring to the seat switch and make sure the operator's weight in the seat is actuating the switch. Hard to be on both sides of the seat at the same time. May need help to check that part. The idea behind it is if the operator falls out of the seat with the pto/mower running the engine will quit. If that is not the problem post the model number and serial number so we can find a wiring diagram. 33 different models in 1991. Garry

One has to wonder, who would have such a unit and NOT be a member here? People these days geez !!!!

@roadapples beat me to the punch. The WHCC show is open to anyone, member or not. In order to sell there though, you must be a paid-up,card carrying member.

A lot of old guys say they don't use a computer.... And no, you don't have to be a member of WHCC to attend the show. Although, like being a support member here, small price to pay for what you get...

In a non-scientific poll of people milling around the WHCC show several years ago, I found that the majority of the folks there are not members of RedSquare, and many have not even heard of RedSquare.

I think that's thinking outside the box. I can see all kinds of use's for that and it could be used on any tractor. I would love to know how you did it. Maybe a tutorial on how it's made and the lifts you used for it. I would love to have one. Great job.

Hello, im new to this site. Just picked up a good running 75 C100 with a front end loader on it. Hoping i didnt pay to much lol. Will be great addition for work on my property. Let me know what you guys think.

What's to "make up??!!" It's the big show. .... Searching for online assistance was how I found this AWESOME site. ..And I couldn't agree more. VERY much to all the people on

You'd be surprised at how many young whipper-snappers have never even heard of a Wheel Horse tractor.I know,I know......hard to believe.

Welcome to the best wheel horse site in the world. As you can see by the other posts we love these red beasts. There like kids in a candy shop. But to own one of these well built machines really is a great feeling. I never owned one until 2 years ago now I have 7. And if you want to know how to repair and maintain them you came to the right place.

After an hour of figuring the cab out in the garage I got it all put together and on the 416 and it's very nice, seems to get pretty warm inside as well. Winter will be the true test of that though

Haven't had time to post anything . Some new stuff enjoy !

Another one down the road to an unlikely buyer

I never new you Nut's exsisted till some told me id fit in well cuz i'm a double nut he said ! Thanks a lot ole buddy whom i wont mention

That statement is correct. Connecting rod bolt tangs MUST be flattened just to give clearance.

I could see someone owning a (1) WH and never become a member . Wheel Horse manufactured alot of tractors in their years. In my travels, if I see someone using a Wheel Horse, I stop and "shop" talk to them about their WH. Some never heard of RedSquare. Which is odd because if you search Wheel Horse on the web: you get WHCC and RedSquare forum. BTW: Bob, I was of the understanding that you had to be a member of WHCC (I am) to attend the Big Show. Is that true?

Nut welded on should do it. If you have a bolt/stud broken off close to, or just below the face of a casting, etc, find a washer with a hole the size or slightly smaller than the bolt, hold it over the bolt, then hit it with the mig. The washer should stop you welding the bolt to the casting. Then hold a nut, a half / thin nut is best, over the washer / bolt and fill the centre of the nut with weld. This usually puts enough heat into the assembly to allow you to crack it free. Good luck

Thanks for the reply! HA! Well I didn't smack the speed control shaft and didn't have to. I went out to two different autoparts stores and rented/ purchased a couple of tools. A Bolt driven tie rod puller and two sizes of pitman arm pullers. I check to see which one would fit the best and the only one that fit was the larger pitman arm puller with a 1 5/16" opening. It was s snug fit but grabbed on. I shielded the fuel tank with some 16g sheet metal and heated the arm up for about 20-30 seconds between both sides. Sprayed some PB Blaster on it and let it sit for maybe 10 seconds. I Slipped the pitman arm puller on from the fuel tank side and had to work it in and then had to shift the control arm forward and then was able to wiggle the puller on enough to fully center the bolt and finger tightened it. Grabbed the wrench and started turning... It took about five 1/4 turns and when I let go and took a look..... PING! Popped right off. You can see jut how dirty the top of the 1100 is from the leak and that's after wiping a bit of grime off. So glad I got the seals. Now to pull the seal off, clean up the shaft and get it cleaned up and put back together so I can finish my Snow Thrower Restore! Well I hope this helps someone out when trying to figure out how to get this arm off. I'll put a link to the seal replacement thread that I have to update from the past winter.

@TBusch to . If you are good with the deal you made, then the price was right! Plenty of folks looking for loaders, so you are 1 up on them!

Love to see even more pictures in time: loading up the containers, securing them in there, the dock, and then when they get to Denmark and where they may be going. I really enjoy seeing the building & insides over there, new owners, the Danish countryside, homes, farms, workshops, tools and their new horses working . . . keep 'em coming g hopefully . . . Glen

Well Skipper (Tom) and his family finally showed up at my Mom's house yesterday...along with Tom Cornford. They have been very busy horse russeling in the Mid West. They showed up with 2 large trailers full of Wheel Horses that are headed to Denmark. He got my 1972 Raider 10 with a tiller. Here are a few pictures. It was very nice to meet Tom and his family...nice to see my friend Tom Cornford again also. tieing down the Raider 10 Tom and family

Hello All, This may be long and it is my first post here. I recently made my first wheel horse purchases. My grandpa has had several of the A-90 style wheel horse tractors. Having been in a wreck many years ago he drives them around the tractor shows rather than walking. He wanted an RJ but they are few and far between here in Kansas, so I settled upon getting him an early round hood as a surprise, albeit early Christmas present. I found semi locally 2 round hoods for sale. A 653 and a 704 for $350. Neither ran, the 653 did not have an installed motor. The deal came with a H60 and a K181. I gave him the 653 and the locked up H60. He quickly freed the motor but has not taken delivery of the tractor yet for restoration. I plan on using mine like his when I go to shows to poke around on. However having recently purchased my first house and small acerage, and being an avid gardener I plan to put mine to work. So I fell off the deep end and immediately purchased: Mid and rear mount cultivators. Mid mount blade Front mount blade Extra wheels for a dual setup Rear Plow ( I need a coulter though) Dump cart (bathtub type) HY-3 hydraulic setup WT-XXX Tiller I also purchased a SR-64 speed reduction kit cover which brings me to the meat of this post. I would like to use my tiller with the reduction kit to work my garden. I feel that I can easily piece together the required components. Flat bar, 7 1/2" pulley, 2 idlers a belt and various hardware. But the dimensions of the idler setup I would like to mimic as close as possible. If someone has one of these setups and is willing to measure it I would be very greatful. If you want to know what I need then I can elaborate. However I essentially need every dimension of that bar and how it is constructed. Pics would be so helpful. Pictures if the tiller and my cover included. Not my pictures they are from the sellers posts. Having a semi permanent speed reduction kit doesn't bother me too much as I plan on buying another round hood after this one is refurbished. After all......that HY-3 won't fit on my 704. Don't tell my wife..... Thank you in advance. Pictures of the 704 and 653

When I watched the YouTube video about this, ACMan immediately came to mind. http://usefultop.com/paralyzed-woman-sees-husband-sneak-garage-every-night-follows-secret-revealed/ What a wonderful device which fills a freedom of movement void for those who need them.

I'd have them filled. More weight should equal more traction. Mine have rimguard that was installed by a local dealer. I'm curious to know if anyone has a reason Not to do it.

More information on how it is built or what you would charge to build one . Great looking set up

WOW that will bring out a lot of folks with $$$!

And if you search "RedSquare" you get some Russian crap!

PHO GUY Here are the measurements: Left-side (as you would be sitting on tractor) post must extend 7-1/2"; Right-side post must extend 5-1/2", From the dash tower 2 rear support bracket is 7-3/4", from the center off the front posts to rear support is 19-1/2". I have attached a pic of my 1974 B-80 setup if that helps. Let me know if that is something you can modify to work on your tractor.

Here is a better pic after getting it home. It came with a 42" side throw mower deck that looks to be in great shape. Does anyone know anything about the loader set up? Told it was a Wheel Horse. Is it from 1975?

Mounting the outer seal backwards might help keep the dirt out...

That's quite a project and undertaking, not to mention a financial commitment. Tom must really need tractors and implements in Denmark!!! I'm kinda curious about the customs fees on his end and all the government paperwork that will get shuffled around there. Quite an adventure, I must say....

There are two seals on each side. Part #103118 or 1482 depending on the year. I think they are the same. As far as installing them in opposite directions I really don't know but there is some logic to that considering the environment they live in.

So around 8pm we wrapped things up and I told the wife I have to bring the tractor in. Get to it and no key. I took it out so no one would get hurt. But I couldn't find it...looked everywhere finally found the spare. Key turned up in my work jeans. Here is last years

Hey guys sorry if I ruffled a few feathers w the monicker "unscrupulous seller." I am a believer in the free market. A seller is more than welcome to set any price he would like. And an educated buyer can accept or decline said price. However NOTHING ticks me off more than those sellers taking advantage of newbies. These are often the very same flippers who continuously ask insane prices for stuff they most likely picked up for 200% less. Buyer beware! There's a lot of good bad and ugly deals to be had. Be patient. Eventuallly that which you seek will come around at a fare and reasonable price.

Nice project...and even better story...good luck and looking forward to updates on your progress

Garry nailed it - and I think I already have that spring from some of my hydro units spare parts stash I keep around . Many of those parts are probably NLA since I always buy up several spares of things I think will wear out over time - springs are a big part of that box's contents . Bushings are another one - probably have 50 of them here and many for the pre-'73 models . Most are easy to duplicate/replicate/update/upgrade but some are very thin wall and tough to make on a sloppy old lathe I have....lol . Been asked by many a parts dealer why I want a quantity of 5 parts when it only takes just one... Sarge

As requested some pictures.

Buddha Diesel engine...welded rear widen rims. It would really look nice all restored but it would be a expensive endeavor . Here’s a couple pictures of the farm from 1973 . This is a really cool site .

Almost done with the 68 Allis. Here is the 68 and 66, side by side.

I picked up a 1983 C125 this week which appears to have spent some time in England. I have no idea how it found its way to Australia as I got it from a dealer who took it as a trade-in. He gave me the previous owner's name but I haven't been able to contact them yet. I don't think the C125 were sold in Australia, I haven't seen one here before (then again I hadn't seen a 512-D either). Here is mine; It has a Mountfields metal plate on the lhs hood stand, it appears to be stuck on with adhesive; The Mountfields serial number is 15527. There are also two decals for "Rochfords", one at the top of the dash; and another the same on the rear fender pan under the seat; I am guessing that Rochfords may have been the retailer or serviced the machine after sale. Does any-one know where they were located? There is also this decal at the base of the hoodstand, which I haven't seen before. Any ideas on who would likely have attached that? Does any-one know for certain how the Mountfields plate is attached? I would like to take it off to have the panel powdercoated but don't want to damage it.

This came from a very rusty C-121.. They are still going strong and are still using the same style logo thingy, just with a few words changed. http://stuartjdaws.co.uk/

On C101 and more local, but I think no longer trading

Same as this one on a B100