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1973 Cub Cadet 149 Hydro with hydraulic lift, 42 inch deck and 42 inch snow blade.

After the exhaust fix, the tractor and I both got a break. Took a new job driving a truck in the oilfield...suddenly I had the money for my projects, but didn't have the time. Finally got a day off work, happened to be my birthday so I treated my self to a new seat for the old girl. Looks so much better and so much easier on the old backside. For those of you wondering I picked this seat up at Atwoods (it's a farm and ranch store we have here, similar to Tractor Supply but much better prices) for $54.99, direct bolt on replacement and very comfy Then came the wiring. Its by no means factory correct or perfect but it's functional and much cleaner looking than what was in there. Isn't that belt tensioner the finest piece of redneck ingenuity you've ever seen

Think this might work?

Finally decided to start a thread on my progress with the C125. I bought this little tractor a few months back from a local guy (heard it advertise on a buy/sell/trade radio program we have...called on it and happened I knew the owner personally, he was an ex girlfriends uncle lol). The engine has been previously rebuilt with low hours on it...but Tommy had hacked a lot of things up on the poor girl, such as the pto driven alternator, 14" car tires, and THAT exhaust . It's been a long process getting her where she is today, and will be an even longer process getting her to where I want her to be. This is the tractor as she set the day she came home Few days after bringing her home I decided to change the rear tires...the original turf tires and wheels came with the tractor, but would not hold air. Borrowed the tears off my 701 that's currently in pieces...looks kinda funny but more functional than the car tires After that came the task of dealing with that hideous exhaust. Had this old stack laying around that came off a friend's Massey Ferguson 135...figured it had to look better than that thing that was on there...turned out better than expected...i love the look and sound of it

Had a tree company take down 9 trees in the yard today. Lots of yard cleanup in my future! And some seat time hauling wood of course.

Late to the party here but Sounds like the guys got you off to a good start other than Dick's typos and Dan giving bum dope on plugs A 701 is on my bucket list and if I ever get into Mr Harrison's @hcminis herd of 701's it's gonna be like a fox in the hen house! Don't worry about bugging us about questions most guys here live for questions! I also try to incorporate a magnet in my drain plugs since these gals don't have a filter. may not help but sure can't hurt. I have the drain plug on most of my Kohlers piped strait down in my eternal quest for an oil change without a mess. I don't run decks on any of my round hoods tho

Here is a picture of 2 the 701s I have

First off as many said...Welcome to Red Square. This place has amazing people that are so knowledgeable and very helpful. As many have mentioned already, the 701 is a great collectible tractor and personally my favorite. Currently I have 5 of the 701 tractors. You can contact me or anyone for help as you have already found out. Forgot..... The side panels on this deck are easily replaceable. They are just a piece of sheet metal bent with mounting holes.

Soda is gentler than say bead blasting. You will have to flush & rinse the tank many times. You could try straight lacquer thinner to dissolve the varnish. Most of that will evaporate after the tank is cleaned.

You are so right!! Spent 5 hours with my dad cutting the brush into manageable lengths and made piles in preparation for the diesel powered chipped I have reserved for Saturday. Once the brush was done I attacked the real wood...I'm no spring chicken anymore and Ive been out of construction for over 7 years now ( got soft 😱), running my Husky 55 Rancher with a 20" bar really beat me up!

Her ya go. I got some ags coming for the duals. My son says it should be a dually and as i told my wife. Who am I I to tell him no.

So I have been looking for a decent 48" deck to use on my D-160 and ran across a CL ad for what was said to be - a kinda sad looking - "314-8 " with what appeared to be a nice looking 48" deck, sez 'make offer'. After some back & forth I struck a deal with seller for $150. So I took off on the 3hr drive to pick it up and I get there and the hood has "416-8" decals!. I dont pay much attention to it - except for the deck and it alone was worth the 150, so load er up and head home. Get up this morning, unload it and get my first real look at it and right away see the engine is a K321 and shows absolutely NO signs of being a replacement? - Was the hood changed and it is a 314-8 or? - now, this is the latest model WH I have ever had and I'm not familiar at all with them (I've had C's & D's) so my question is - what is it? Oh, and from my looking it over I find its in amazingly original condition and seems to be in good condition under the dirt/rust - I think I just may have got me a nice tractor for the price of a nice deck.

Perhaps you need the 4437 replaced by 7376 band used on the model 5060 and 5071 transmissions. It also fit some of the 3-speed transmissions. Click on the picture and click on it again on the next page to enlarge it. Go to the bottom of those pages to see what tractors used those transmissions. This should be the original on the 314-8 http://www.partstree.com/parts/toro/parts/9593/ A good used band should be easily obtained with the 3-speeds being more common. Garry

Some RJs and Suburbans can be a pain even with the correct belt, pulleys and belt guard. Some have worked perfectly fine right out of the gate while others have taken quite a bit of time to get working right. Stressing the brand new belt helps to remove some of the "memory" in it. I drive up to a wall or tree and dig the tires into the ground to stress and stretch a new belt which helps. The correct length of the spacers for the belt guard makes a difference too. If too short you can shim with washers, if too long you grind a little off. Bending the flat edge of the guard slightly around the engine pulley side can also help. As mentioned, a clean smooth engine pulley is critical, start the engine and use a small wire brush to clean the groove. Adjusting the engine position forward/back and making sure it is square is another thing. There are a bunch of little adjustments which can be done to get it working right. A few curse words is another technique I use so don't forget those!

Just came back from 3 weeks in the old country. Thinking others might enjoy and appreciate this. Video and sound will not do justice to this. One has to be next to, and inside of it , to appreciate its raw power, simplicity and efficiency. The sounds and powerful low frequency vibrations it produces specially when inside of it are just awesome and humbling. There are four working ones in this hill alone. Waiting for my lucky day when one becomes available so I can own it. IMG_3852.MOV IMG_3854.MOV

Yes Sylvan great bunch here ....don't anyone get me wrong that I am trying to bash other forums... I am well aware that other fellas here have other hobbies and interests. .. Atvs, boats, snomos, wood working, off road, Jeeps, trucks which is great... the list is endless. RS has just got them beat hands down as far as site layout and ease to communicate. They all offer a small fee much like here to become a "supporter" but yet the ads and the gibberish don't go away. Think I'll stick with my horses!

After I bought my new Dodge Ram 2500 diesel I thought I would go check out some truck forums to try and learn a thing or three about them. Every site I checked out had some knowledgeable folks & good contributors but man do the other forums suck out there compared to here! Ads, ads and more ads not to mention looooonnnnng running scripts & lousy topic layouts. Most very slow and complicated to navigate and figure out. Terrible to register and login, Not at all like the ease & ad free we have here or our sister site MOM. Maybe I am just used to being here. Keep up the good work Karl!

http://www.eastwood.com/por-15-cycle-fuel-tank-repair-kit.html

HAHAHAHA !!!! Obviously - I'M lost..... Stupid phone switched pages on me and I didn't catch it.

I stand corrected! I don't fully understand the physics of the belt guard. Just did a rough fitting of the guard after making some spacers and I can shift without grinding now, although there are a few weird noises from under the guard when I engage the clutch which I need to figure out. I see where the belt rubs on the bottom and rear of the guard, so I guess that's a good thing because it forces the slack up around the engine pulley? So, lot's of progress, I went from the belt slipping and the tractor going nowhere to almost flipping the tractor the first time I put it in 2nd under higher rpms.

Not sure how you plan on getting it all out, but the soda isn't going to hurt the metal.

The first one is 650 megs. This in operation.

LOL @WHX12 ....careful now. Grew up on a farm and we protect our hen houses very well from the pesty fox.....LOL I'm sure there is a 701 in my herd (hen house as you mentioned) that could be for sale.

I think you can reverse the pinions and it will semi permanently lock the diff. This can cause handling problems and occasionally not insignificant crashes when pullers do this for competition. But it can be done. Making it so that it can be locked or unlocked easily is intense project as in the links provided. @pfrederi installed limited slip in one of his which may be your best compromise.

Sorry,My bad, should have checked a few suppliers instead of just 1 ( who had it listed wrong). Also on the air cleaner, some K161's use the same air filter as the K91's. Only real difference being the deck height or thickness of the filter 1 1/2" or 2 3/8".

I finally jumped into changing the oil with plain 30W. I took your advice and removed the small primary deck belt first followed by covering the rest with a plastic bag. I cut the top off a empty windshield wiper fluid jug and stuffed what was left of the bag hanging into it so that is where the oil would be directed. It worked great other than that darn pulley bracket bolted to the frame. It got all behind it as I assumed it would and will probably be dripping oil for days to come ...oh well, I'm sure it isn't the first time it has happened to this old gal I was not very happy with the condition and thickness of the oil coming out so I took the time to clean out the inside of the motor with carb cleaner from both the pour hole and the drain hole - sludge poured out and I kept going till it was clean. Three cans later and its now squeaky clean in there. then I just waited for everything inside to dry. Next I decided that I would put off the "drain pipe" idea so that I could add four Neodymium Magnets to my drain plug and test whether or not it would would catch any metal floating around. In every case I used magnets - even pressurized systems with filters, it has always snagged metal bits - blows me away how much is actually floating around inside engines! If during my next oil change I discover metal, then I will abandon the pipe drain idea and stick to doing it this way in order to continue catching the metal bits on the magnet. As an experiment I also wanted a couple magnets at the end of my dipstick. The idea is if I discover it caught metal then I can have my cake and eat it too — proceeding with the pipe drain and let the dipstick catch the metal bits. I cleaned the dipstick real good then decked the end of it perfectly flat. Next I mixed up a small batch of JBWelb on one of the carb cleaner caps and epoxy'd two Neodymium Magnets together and also to the end of the dipstick (I didn't want to take a chance on them getting stuck to something else inside when the dipstick was being inserted or removed). Neodymium Magnets are supposed to be among the strongest magnets on earth and these tiny buggers really are quite powerful, id imagine I would have to tear the motor apart if they came off the dipstick, so JB Weld was a necessity. The last thing I did was pull the spark plug wire and spin the motor over several times giving the starter/generator time to cool between spins to try and splash as much oil around to lube everything up again before I fired it up. Ill followup after my next oil change with results of the magnets.

This works on various other selected models as well.

Calendar shot. Click here to submit your entry...

Not just Anyone can come up with a priceless gem like that !

1000 bucks to put 9 trees on the ground is super cheap...you got a great deal...but most of the expense is in the cleanup...thats the hard part...putting them on the ground is easy with the right equipment I used to think the same thing...but once you've been up in the bucket a couple times it's not bad at all...i used to love the feeling of being 40-50 feet up with my chainsaw in hand...now them guys that's climb...thats another story...ive got all the climbing gear...but there isn't a customer within 250 miles of me got enough money to get me to put it on LOL. Here's a couple shots of the view from up in my bucket. Sure gonna miss that old truck when it goes to it's its new home next week

Gasket was leaking, ordered a new one. should be in in 2 wks. It was blasted with HOT water twice and I finished underside with lots of elbow grease. hand sanded the sides. It's only going to be a work tractor. If I was looking for one to make show room this one would not have been a picked. It sat out side not running for 10+ years, and the right hand side was near a road where it got sprayed with salt in the winter. As for how long the paint will last, best guess if it put in after using 20 yrs maybe?

I sent her a note, gave her my phone number and we will check it out tomorrow!

More pics of the project.

Rubber BUNG... ...your excused..for now!

I don't know what the proper name is but the rubber bushing that the shut off valve goes into. wish some days I had that excuse why I do the things I do eric j

All the Best Ewan. Have a good day.

If you plan to run a hydro with the 10 HP from a manual transmission tractor you will need to replace the drive pulley with the larger one from a hydro tractor. As others have said, the 48 deck will be fine as long as you keep the grass at a reasonable length,

It's all good until one of the outriggers on the truck sinks into the ground - I took a ride years ago from 45' up on a heavy 2 axle D series truck . Wasn't too fast , but fast enough to crack the bucket and fubar an ankle pretty good . It took two of our cable plows and a lot of chains to right the truck again , then back up that pole to finish hanging strand . I did climb some , burned a few poles too but the worst one was a pole that had a rotten spot where my gaff kicked out - I started down but managed to kick away from it to avoid looking like a creosote porcupine , and landed on someone's mailbox . That put a really deep bruise on my lower back and destroyed their box as well as driving the pole in almost a foot deeper . I didn't work with the aerial crew too often , most times it was just helping a run through heavily wooded areas and climbing trees to run the strand - my main work was on the underground crew doing bores and plowing in cables - riding a vibratory plow is really tough on everything , especially the human in the seat . When it came time to set the towers for the head-in building I did quite a few of those - most of ours were 80' free-standing units erected by hand in 10' sections - rigging those upper antennas was no fun since they are so long but back then I could wrap my legs into the tower frame so I could reach it . You really had to have a young and Gumby-like body to do that stuff - back in the day was fine but no way I could do nearly any of it now . You got a pretty smoking deal on getting those down despite having to do your own cleanup - most contractors around here would have been at least double that . Sarge

I agree with Craig...DEFINITELY a calendar shot

Looks it's starting to come along nicely.

Originals are 1/2" rod. 1/4" rod is too small and will flex when moving the blade to the left. Which style do you have? "A frame style vs the new?"

Well said Jim. There are all sorts of worthless sites on the internet. We are blessed with conscientious Moderators who keep us straight and Karl has done a great job of building and maintaining the site for us. All of us benefit from the combined wisdom and humor of this group; wonderful.

I'm sittin here with tears in my eyes being thankful for the wonderful people of this forum. I thank you all for your good wishes and especially the prayers. You have made me stronger just knowing you are with me in spirit. Thank you all, Jim D.

Although I don't know you personally, I do feel I know you through this form.We serve a great GOD and through Jesus we can ask for his help in times like these. 953 Nut said it very well, that all things are possible through our savior Jesus Christ.Those who wait on the Lord shall renew their strength; They shall mount up with wings like eagles, They shall run and not be weary,They shall walk and not faint, Isaiah 40:31. God speed and a quick recovery. Bob

Just to throw a monkey wrench into the whole business some guys have reported using a short or longer belt has helped. Would guess it all depends on what has been done to the tractor over the years. I've got a 400 Suburban that has always given me fits in trying to get the belt disengaged while clutched. Let us know how your new belt works there are some other tricks a guy can try. Welcome to the club! Not so much so with RJ's & 'Burbs EB but it can't hurt. These models often have a little arm thingy on the motor or a belt stop thingy mounted on the tension pulley to stop/force the belt forward when clutched. Got some pics somewhere if I can find them.

Oh, on the carburetor, probably float too low.

I had to get creative for the 30 amp bus on the fuse block. Wiring is done except fuel pump and light switch.

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Love it !!!

You won't hurt that K series. I've run mine at low speeds countless hours over decades and never had an issue, Even at lower RPM there's a lot of splashing going on.