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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/16/2017 in all areas

  1. 19 points
    I started the restoration in 2009. Had to stop (work and life) finally got it back together last week. It still needs some stuff here and there but the hardest stuff is done
  2. 11 points
    http://www.ntd.tv/inspiring/life/boy-followed-path-lake-noticed-something-strange-found-nothing-short-astounding.html
  3. 9 points
    This my dad with his dad's 875. Grandpa bought this new and i am the 3rd gen to have this. Big Hi from Pekin,Illinois
  4. 5 points
    New on here from Greencastle IN and saw there was another member from Greencastle. Would like very much to get in touch with him. I have 1996 Wheel Horse 312-8 that I am thinking about selling. I have snow plow, extra set of wheels with chains and the original hubcaps. I believe this is anniversary edition as wheel horse tractors started being built in 1946. This is not a Toro. Would love to have him look at mine and give me idea of what it is worth. Husband passed and I know little about this world of wheel horses. It runs good and mows great. My husband took real good care of it.
  5. 5 points
    http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/profile/339-lane-ranger/ Click on the link above, hit the red tab to send a message to Lane Ranger...this is the member you're looking for. He's a class act, and I'm sure will be of great help to you.
  6. 4 points
    Oh, on the carburetor, probably float too low.
  7. 4 points
    Nice ride Shooter! Welcome too. Great bunch o' folks here... maybe you'll find the stuff you're still huntin'. I usually agree with the repro being "just not quite there " for me as well.... but don't think of used parts as used. No matter the make, Wheelhorse or whatever... "Used" means it actually WAS on whatever you're fixing or fixing up. It's a real part, not a repro. Often you can find perfect "used" parts. Don't get me wrong... don't settle if you aren't happy with the part... but just because it isn't brand new doesn't mean it's not in "new" condition.
  8. 4 points
    You guys no how this goes. Well I recently let go of a few only to have a few more take there place. Well I tried guess there's no hope. My grandson even approves one of them.
  9. 3 points
    It doesn't take much gear grinding to round over those 3rd gears. Every tractor missing a belt guard is suspect to this.
  10. 3 points
    If you add both front and rear wheel weights that'll make it a bit more stable with a lower center of gravity.
  11. 3 points
    ok cool ... . To be honest... I'M not comfortable at 25* anyways.... can't hold on !!!
  12. 3 points
  13. 3 points
    Plasma is handy stuff!
  14. 3 points
    Tried to drill the inlet pipe for ports but I had no good drill bits for the job. Out come Mr.Plasma and took care of the job. Pretty? Not really but no one will see the inside anyways. Will it work? I don't know. Took some ideas from different things I have seen on the web. Cut the opening on the side for the pipe to stick out. Cut it to length and used a stainless nut for spacing inside. I'll get this much welded and then finish the front end cap and outlet. Ill put a flat bar support bracket on the back, midway.
  15. 3 points
    I had to get creative for the 30 amp bus on the fuse block. Wiring is done except fuel pump and light switch.
  16. 3 points
    I would like to attend . Have any idea where it could be held. I 'll make @857 horse attend.
  17. 3 points
    to the . No way around it, like Richard stated above, you must take the mule drive apart to install a new belt. I usually leave it attached to the tractor for support while loosening the nut. You only need to remove the guard, but if you take everything apart, make sure you get the spacer and pulleys in the correct position.
  18. 3 points
    The Lawn ranger deck uses a single groove pulley and different hangers you will have to do modifications The Rangers had 32" decks.
  19. 2 points
    Everyone looks forward to the Big Show in Pa., myself included. Seeing old friends and making new ones is at the core of the event. Wheeling and dealing in the "Horse Trading" area is a major draw. To me, once a year is not enough! I would like to get some feedback to see if an all Wheel Horse swap meet in the spring (early May) in Central Virginia could draw an interest. Buy, sell, and trade anything Wheel Horse. This would be a one day event. No admission charge or "premium" payments, just an opportunity to sell off "left overs" and find parts, tractors or implements. If there is enough interest, there could be a Fall event as well. I'm open to your opinions and suggestions.
  20. 2 points
    This new to me RJ58 has me feeling like I'm a special kind of stupid. Tried to put a new belt guard on it, wouldn't fit over the pulleys. Found the engine was pushed all the way forward in the frame. So I loosened it up and pushed the engine all the way towards the back, which let the belt cover fit over the pulleys. I messed with the brake rod a bunch, too, making sure the idler pulley tops out just under the belt guard top . So now at this point the belt is slipping so much the tractor will barely move and the trans pulley is still spinning when I'm pushing on the clutch as hard as I can, causing it to grind when shifting. But this is all happening without the belt guard on - I still need to get bolts and spacers. I've read and been told the guard will help with that, I imagine because it pinches the belt so that there's more gap around the pulleys and lets them slip more? Also, the pulleys are rough and I know they need polished out. Finally, the belt on it is an A28, which is 28" inner and 30" outer. I found threads saying a 29" belt is needed - is that the inner or outer measurement? I would hope it's the outer because that means my problem is simply a too-big belt.
  21. 2 points
    I sent her a note, gave her my phone number and we will check it out tomorrow!
  22. 2 points
    You spelled scents wrong...AGAIN! Good thing that isn't one of his sock monkies or you two would be rollin around on the floor right now!
  23. 2 points
    That would be an A-27 or 4L-290. Sounds like you have everything worked out in your mind and understand what needs to be done.
  24. 2 points
    @squonk and @953 nut Thanks guys now you have scared off anyone who wanted to attend . Where is Waldo ?
  25. 2 points
    Sorry for your loss... You will find all kinds of outstanding and sympathetic advice on this forum. Good group of folks who just want to help out and love Wheel Horse Tractors...
  26. 2 points
    Looks like a nice cut to me.
  27. 2 points
    I know what Jim look like, but I would attend anyway!
  28. 2 points
    I definitely admire the C160s -- that model (Hydro or 8-speed) was on my short list of models to go for when I set out to find a Wheel Horse. As luck would have it, I found a 520H. Both are pretty much at the top in power and work capability for their eras. When you really think about it, the four extra horsepower of a 520H comes with a fairly hefty price in terms of having to beef up the rear of the frame, plus all the extra complexity of the Onan twin and its electrical and fuel systems. (I kind of leave the safety switches out of the picture for performance comparison; they're just part of the more modern era.) In terms of work you can do, either tractor is quite capable. Even snowblowing isn't likely to be too much for a C160 to handle if you don't attack it too fast. (Heck, I used to chew through southern Michigan lake-effect snowfalls with an 8-HP John Deere 110!)
  29. 2 points
    I hope somebody that goes already knows what Jim looks like. He might be there but no one would know it!
  30. 2 points
    A k161 is the correct engine for your tractor. Here is a link for Kohler & aftermarket air filters, the k161 & 181 take the same filter.http://www.psep.biz/store/kohler_air_filters.htm They also have many other parts for your engine.For oil use a strait 30wt. Spark plug Champion # H10C or RH10C.
  31. 2 points
    Thanks for that, I have dropped what you call a mule drive by pushing in the pin but wondered if there was a way without taking the mule apart (and nobody wants to dismember a mule, its cruel) but I will get out there tomorrow and try it. Any of the member here drive muscle cars because I am missing my 79 Trans Am, a BMW does not put the same smile on my face as an American muscle car. Doug.
  32. 2 points
    The item you are referring to is called a "Mule Drive" and the 1 1/8" nut needs to be removed and the pulley cover removed to route the belts around them.
  33. 2 points
    Engine Wix 51764 Tranny Wix 51410 Drop the 5 for Napa
  34. 2 points
    Hate to keep bugging you guys with boring parts requests, but I'm struggling finding the correct Kohler maintenance kit for my motor. I believe I have K161S ...does that sound right? Even after a good scrubbing, the Kohler metal plate on the motor is extremely hard to read anything off of - but I don't think the 1961 701's had any other motor option (as best I ca tell)? I downloaded the Kohler Service manual which covered the following models: K91-K141-K161-K181-K241-K301-K321-K341. While it was full of good basic information it did not give a part number for a maintenance kit or even individual items (air cleaner, spark plug, engine oil or fuel filter). My last ditch effort was Amazon, but reviews were all over the place on the aftermarket stuff, some saying it didn't fit their engine others saying it fit great. Id rather stick with one of Kohler's own OEM maintenance kits to ensure highest quality and fit. Last thing I want is to not have a good seal around the air filter or find out some other cheaply made part ended up wrecking havoc on my K-series. I have one more maintenance question - the oil drain plug is directly over the 3 pulleys that engages the mower deck. How in the heck do you guys drain the oil without getting it all over everything?
  35. 2 points
    A couple of nice ones, Tom. Looks like your grandson has already laid claim to one.
  36. 2 points
    By golly if I didn't find a suitable spring in the Hillman drawers at ACE @Racinbob. Thanks for looking. If When you have that M & G we we can help you inventory and build shelves! Nice crisp detents in all gears in both pre and final assembly. Every thing looks good to go and hopefully will have it all together for upcoming plow day. Luckily I have a drop in spare 5060 coming my way thanks to @Terry M and @Shynon if for some reason I have more issues. Hopefully no further problems so I can use the spare it for a project I have in mind.
  37. 2 points
  38. 2 points
    Can't argue with the grandkids... they are always right!
  39. 2 points
    I have a hydraulic steering cylinder for an outboard and a power steering valve but I decided to keep it this way. It steers pretty easy anyways. Changed the name also because I had a decal made for the hood.
  40. 2 points
    Stevebo's manual, and electric start '56 Ride-Away Seniors.
  41. 2 points
    There are features I like about all my tractors, but if I could only have one, here are some reasons it would be a C-160. 1. just like the clean hood design 2. prefer points, coil ignition 3. prefer solid mount engine over rocker plate 4 . prefer high fuel tank over under the seat...with a full tank, they run w/o a fuel pump 5. the single Kohlers use less fuel than similar HP twins 6. and they produce less heat 7. they have adequate HP to handle any task....tilling, blowing, 48"deck 8. I prefer hydros with the console mounted motion control....easier to add my foot control
  42. 2 points
    Absolutely! Great looking tractor! I remember reading someone commenting that they would never own a "black hood" and I wondered why? A Wheel Horse is a Wheel Horse! Who cares about the hood! Took me awhile, (oh heck I still don't know why he said that!) but I do like the older hoods better for some reason! More like the older farm tractors of my time I suppose. Great looking! Simple! Clean lines! Love 'em! I suppose that helps explain why with all my choices I very often hop on my C-85 (C-81 is sick...). It's such a simple and dependable tractor that sips a bit of gas from time to time, or it just evaporates, don't know but still gets the job done somehow (but it doesn't blow snow!). I do love the older WHs even though I really love the newer ones too! How does a guy decide? Side note. A friend of mine here on the forum, (yes you know how you are!) commented that there was no need to have more than one GT. I think he has 6 or so now! Oh maybe 5! It's not an addiction! But rather a progression of knowledge! <chuckle!> But really! The more you learn that even if there is one best overall, there are different tasks so the more Wheel Horses you need!
  43. 2 points
    Great looking tractor. And, IMO, the best tractor WH made.
  44. 1 point
    Hello folks, thanks for letting me on the forum. I have Just got hold of a 518-H that had stood in a barn for 3-4 years, with a change of fuel it started well. I have since replaced the solenoid, battery, air and fuel filter, spark plugs and now need to replace the V belt that goes from the mower deck to the drive pulley, does any of the members have an easy way of threading it through the front two pulleys near the tensioner to the drive pulley, any photos would be a great help, thank you in advance. The Wheelhorse machines look very well made. Doug.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    Let's bring this back out of hibernation. Rolled her out today and redid the steering rack mount and made it simpler and cleaner than the bracket I had made earlier. Going to redo the way the floor is so I have been changing around a couple of things. Made my battery box and trimmed up the lower front hood hinge to clear it. Also made a L shaped bracket to weld to the firewall frame for support and the remote oil filter mount should bolt up there. Small steps....... I mean I have only started over twice and been working on it for 3 years now
  47. 1 point
    These fuel pumps actually have two check valves and most of them do not seal tight enough to keep the fuel from leaking back to the tank. This was not a problem when the tanks were above the fuel pump, but when they were put under the seat, the fuel drains back and the pump looses its prime. It takes a lot of cranking to purge the pump of air and to reprime itself. If you keep the tank over half full, the pump should be covered and not loose its prime. Another solution, if you don't want to add an electric pump, is to add a marine primer bulb. https://www.amazon.com/Ninth-City-Rubber-Transfer-Gasoline-Accessories/dp/B0148G078G/ref=sr_1_16/146-9118746-0112145?ie=UTF8&qid=1508107203&sr=8-16&keywords=fuel+primer+bulb
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    ...and the hits just keep on coming.
  50. 1 point
    Who wants to be intelligent? No fun in that. Also nobody is perfect. I'm nobody. Therefore I'm perfect.
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