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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/07/2017 in Posts
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11 pointsThis was given to me by a coworker. It would not roll over so he put in a new starter and battery. Still no go so he gave up on it. Problem was carb leaked gas into cylinder effectively hydro locking it. Rebuilt carb and machine runs very well. Deck was very crooked so I leveled that and it should be ready to mow now. I think my wife will enjoy driving this. She can't reach the pedals on the 520's with Matt's kit installed. Paint is good on tractor. Deck needs some work to make it look pretty. Cleat
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10 pointsFinally got the engine in my daughters suburban after a year. Few small things left but end is in sight now.
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10 pointsI just wanted to highlight the fact that I recived great customer service and the parts I needed quickly at a very fair price from Robert Maynard and Glen Pettit, suffice to say I am still awaiting parts I have orderd in the UK...😉 Much appreciated guys. Des
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9 pointsI have been known to do both, I have a 13' ramp trailer. The one Cardinal Rule for loading is to back onto the ramp! If you are going forward and have a momentary loss of traction you can end up upside down. Also, if you are suing portable ramps be sure they are secured to the truck/trailer, if the mower deck hooks on a ramp it will get pushed off the tailgate and you will be on your side in a split second.
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6 points
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6 points
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5 pointsThank you. Yeah she wanted a pink and tan one. She's 5 and going to her first show with it tommorw.
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5 pointsMy rule of thumb is opposite, drive them on forward, especially if the hoods are hinged in the front. If not properly secured, a tractor that is backed onto a trailer or truck, can and will lose their hoods due to the wind drag blowing them up and off. I've seen it happen, and in fact, I was behind a trailer that had that happen to. If you do backed them on, secure the hood with a bungie cord or strap (just don't tightened them too tight to damage the hood). If you do have a problem with them rearing up if driving them forward onto a trailer or truck, don't drive them on, but walk them on. Put them in the lowest gear, throttle down, and just walk them on. Much safer.
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4 points
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4 pointsBoth those guys I have met in person when I traveled from UK to the big show in US a couple of years ago and they were perfect gentlemen and a pleasure to ham met , along with many other wonderful that I was lucky enough to meet
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4 pointsFinally got round to trying out the sickle bar this afternoon. To say I'm pleased with it is a bit of an understatement. Tried it on the overgrown bridleway past my home. Thick, heavy, long wet grass. Did two passes. One down and one up. 1st gear low box and lowish revs. Result below.
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4 pointsI run a 77" W x 14' L utility trailer. Love it. Most in my area are 77x12... but I wanted the extra two feet to comfortably load attachments as well.
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3 pointsAlmost finished. Just need to put the belts and cover on and the hitch and cable and I'm finished.
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3 points
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3 pointsNice sunny afternoon, so I decided to line up two of my tractors for a couple pictures. Featuring my 857 that mows the yard every week, and the recently restored 1276 sporting freshly painted rims and some new rubber. Carlisle SAWTOOTH 4.80-8 in the front, and Kenda K501 23x8.50-12 Super Turf in the rear. Enjoy.
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3 points
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3 pointsHi Jim, The working width (inside of rails) is 66". Max width ( outside of tires) is 84". Ed BTW, the length of mine is 14 ' not 16" .
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3 pointsJim, The width of my 6 x 12 trailer is 96" outside of fender to fender. The maximum width of my Tacoma pickup is 84", outside rear-view mirror to mirror. I don't feel like I'm going to take out any cars, but there have been some mailboxes on the right side of the road that may have felt a bit like jumping back as I passed by.
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3 points
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3 pointsInteresting info Bob. I was working on a 10 Hp K241 on a 1075 (has a S/G), the timing hole is on the rear side of the shroud. On My 310-8 it is on the front. Apparently when they started putting ring gears on for electric starters they moved the timing marks and the sight hole. Having them up front near the points makes life a lot easier...
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2 pointsJust purchased my first Wheel Horse yesterday. I'd like to restore it to its original glory. I'm sure there is plenty of parts information out there. Any help you guys could provide would be great. The I have says C-120 on the side but the previous owner says it's a c-100. It does not have a data tag anywhere that I can find. Is there any distinguishing features I should look for to help determining exactly what year/model it is.
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2 points
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2 pointsI have the Koehler in my with good hydro. I also have the 15 inch rear wheels. I'm not sure what motor is in the other unit. It may be a 74 d200 for all I know. Or another d160. Not sure if the hydro is good, don't know if it runs. Just seems with the finish mower and 3 point setup with pto I can't go wrong, even if I rob the good stuff for mine and part it out, if it's decent I may just keep it and part ways with the 160
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2 pointsSweet. The console decals really help finish them off. I have always liked the look of the woodgrain decals. Thinking about making some custom ones for my commando. Hope you figure out the hydro issue.
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsCame with the deflector. Looks like it was taken off when machine was new as it looks new. It also came with 2 large plastic pieces that get installed for mulching. Also came with all the manuals including a VHS tape (which I can't play as I don't have a VCR any more but I thing my mother in law does). My wife usually cuts the front lawn with a push mower and I cut the last 2 acres with a rider. She will like to ride I am sure.
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2 pointsNow that was a great deal - did it come with a deflector for the discharge chute? Good to know that your wife cuts grass - can't get mine near one...
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2 pointsAmazing Rattle Can restore!!! Tim Wow Wish I would have had time to go see it at the show. The wheel color looks like a close match to the decal accent color? Beautiful work!!
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2 pointsMy first job @ 10 years old was working in my Uncle's service station and I remember well all the cardboard cans. We carried CO-OP also, had all the weights including auto trans fluids.
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2 pointsWhat ever works best for your combination of drive belt pulley and adjustment. It really doesn't make any difference which way the terminals face towards the engine or the tank. What is important is that they don't touch!!
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2 pointsYep, all painted with Rustoleum Sunrise Red spray can with the exception of the transmission which was brush painted with Rustoleum Sunrise Red. The brush on paint comes out just as glossy if you use a high quality brush. As the tranny was in the garage, could not spray it. Everything else was painted outdoors. Here is a cropped pic of the 1276 I took yesterday with the rims and new tires on it.
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2 pointsMan I think we still have some Kendall and Co-Op ( Farm Bureau ) non detergent oil hanging around the old AC dealership. I know there's still cardboard quarts of oil in the shed .
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2 pointsI tried a can of this Tg just to see how it would come out. I thought maybe it would be more chip/scratch resistant. Jury is still out on that. Color is spot on I think or close enough for horseshoes & hand grenades.
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2 points18' car hauler when I am running around local or a 28' "toyhauler" when we are making a vacation out of it!
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2 pointsThis flywheel is typical of a K-series with Bendix-type starter. Since @Fin_ is working on a K301AS, this should help him locate the marks if they are still there.
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2 pointsThose ags are the original and correct for your tractor along with the fronts. Your D tractor is a 1979 and the three point, pto, and disc brakes where options for that year. The hour meter and dash light are options also. In 1974 when they introduced the new "D" series and you ordered a 200 you got all the items i mentioned standard.
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2 pointsSince there was a lot of talk about the timing marks, here is how to find the approximate location if your flywheel is rusted. This is where the marks are located, and what they are supposed to look like. This is a K301 flywheel. So, with the cover off, looking from the front, remove the nut and locate the keyway. Place it at the top (12 o'clock). Your TDC (T) mark will be at 9 o'clock with the (S) mark 5-1/2 to 6 teeth toward the top.
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2 pointsI He has a C100 the regulators on them were the old large finned style mounted on the hoodstand not cooled by the engine.
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2 pointsNot a bad price , but too bad the 3pt hitch has been robbed off of it - that is common , though . Those ags aren't very aggressive at all and generally won't tear up the turf any . I'm going to do a detailed writeup about rebuilding the Ross steering boxes , as well as where to source the parts and some upgrades while it's being done as well . Keep a close eye on your engine to hydraulic pump coupler - they can be a real problem on the D's and can cripple the machine in short order leaving you stranded . I'll be working on that coupler on mine shortly , waiting on parts for the steering box first . Sarge
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2 pointsJudging solely from the amount of rust in that pic on the flywheel, your timing marks are long gone. The timing was never the problem as it ran before you parked it. First I would have checked for spark. If I didn't have it, checked for 12 volts on the coil with the key on. If present, I would have filed and set points , and recheck for spark at the plug. More than likely there was a coating on the points, or a fuel problem. The timing doesn't get off sitting.
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2 pointsBertie Many use landscape type trailers because ease of use. I had a nice enclosed trailer for use and storage but these can be a bit pricey. Some just use ramps on there trucks. It is up to you and what you can afford.
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2 points
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2 pointsFred, the trans will bolt in and are the same in all most every way except the axles on the 310 are 1" and the 416 are 1 1/8" and unless you are using it in a tractor pull or puling tree stumps with chains on you will probably never hurt the 1" rear axles , eric j
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2 pointsNot all! Seems like a few have gone to @dells68 @TravelinJavelin and @T-Mo have snagged some nice ones lately. I am about to go from an acquisition mode to a get off your keister and start restoring mode shortly. I have enough projects to keep me going for a few years.
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2 pointsOk, here are some pics after having the tires mounted, I think it is a pretty good option to match the original color. Nice thing is that the paint is easy to spray, dries fast compared to Rustoleum, and tire mounting did not damage the finish at all. Only $3.49 a can at your local ACE Hardware.
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2 pointsThis place is absolutely fantastic, and I love reading shared stories like this. You look real good in that shirt Jim.
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2 pointsEd, Give me a little time to get out to the shop. I may have some that were left over from the 416-H rebuild. If I have extras, I'll send them to you, otherwise I will try to find the dimensions and where I got them. I do remember it was a marine supply company but I don't remember the name. Have to do some research... Okay, here you go. That didn't take long. Inside diameter is 3/8". Is this what you need? Available from the link below. I think they are packaged 10 to a bag. PM me and I can send you a couple. Bob http://shop.mariner-sails.com/Nyliner-3-8-Inch-Id-Rudder-Pin-HC-8061011.htm
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1 pointI have an '80. Wires - most - showed signs of overheating. No fuse on anywhere may have had an impact, too. The regulator initially sent out high voltage and soon quit. The cheap eBay model is, so far, working fine. The non-eBay NAPA coil? Lasted for 20 minutes. Now on my second. YMMV. Black hoods!!!!!!
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1 pointFinished mowing the back yard after work today. I have to say the C-120 is doing a fine job.