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I wanted to get the stickers from @Vinylguy and the horse-hood ornament from @GlenPettit posted before all you guys go to the Big Show. Here are the stickers from Terry for my 876. Beautiful!! Thank You Terry. I managed to hook up with Glen at Mentone. I asked him about his horse-head ornaments. He has been having trouble getting them chromed. I told him I was thinking about gold paint...so he gave me one to see how it looks. I'm very pleased with how it turned out. I sanded it very lightly with 600 grit and used mineral spirits to clean it. 2 coats of etching primer (grey)...the 1st coat had a few issues hanging on to the epoxy, but the 2nd coat looked great. I the used 2 coats of Rust-Oleum gold. I have not decided if I want to clear coat it yet. I kind of like it like it is. I added a couple of shots with the original type chrome ornament which I got from @Shynon at AJ's Jamboree. Thank You Glen and Tom.

20 years in the pressure washer industry What is a "GOOD" pressure washer? I won't call out a specific brand, but I will tell you what to look for. First off price is not a qualifier, if your shopping price only, you will get a throw-a way pressure washer, may last a season, may not last through the task you purchased it for. Second, high PSI numbers should not be the main goal, you need to understand the relationship between PSI & GPM. Third, the pump is the "hart" of the unit, no matter what the other bells & whistles are, it is the pump that makes it a pressure washer. So if your with me so far, let's talk about the pump first. You may think that the pump "compresses" the water, it dose not, the pump is known in the industry as a "positive flow pump" O.K. you say but what dose that mean? think of a sump pump or even the water pump in your car, and how it's constructed, that kind of pump has a impeller (like a fan) that spins inside of a volute (a cavity that directs the flow). This kind of pump can be dead headed (stopping the flow at the exit/discharge port) with no damage to the pump, the water will just circulate around the impeller and not exit the discharge, however if this conduction is maintained for a period of time, due to friction the water will heat up and eventually destroy the pump. A pressure washer pump has pistons, seals and check valves, to move a constant flow of water, and by restricting the flow pressure is raised in side the pump, if this kind of pump is "dead headed" it will (provided you have enough horse power) blow the pump apart. Still with me? good, so now you might ask well I have a trigger gun on the end of the hose, it stops the flow of water so why doesn't the pump blow up? Good question indeed, when the trigger gun is released the flow of water(depending on the manufacture) is either stopped or redirected. On electric units it is common to have a pressure switch on the pump to shut off the electric motor driving the pump when the trigger is released. The down fall of this system is first, it's hard on the electric motor, the hardest thing for an electric motor is the "start" and excessive starting will shorten the life of the motor. Also because this type of system traps pressure in the pump and hose, any leaks or loss in pressure will restart the motor (short cycling). On gas/diesel driven motors it's unpractical to stop/stare the motor every time the trigger gun is released, so on the pump an "unload-er" valve is installed, when the trigger is released the pressure in side the pump increases to the point where the valve opens to redirect the flow back into the input of the pump. The down side of this system is that first off most operators do not understand this valve and it's the first thing they go for when a loss of pressure is experienced. This valve needs to be set so working pressure is less than the unloading pressure, if incorrectly set the pump will not unload and result in pump damage. ( I have seen many pumps will the head bolts torn off, broken pistons etc.) Also with this type of unload-er system when the trigger is released the pump is circulating water from the output back to the input, this is a small amount of water and due to friction will heat up fast, because the pump only wants to see cold water ( hot water is always made after the pump) damage will occur in a short period of time, to minimize the potential of pump damage due to high water temperature a thermostatic valve is installed on the input side of the pump, so in a perfect world when water temperature got to high it will open releasing the hot water and "new" cold water enters the pump as the temperature cools down the valve should close. The drawback of this is first off, the seals may be damaged by the hot water before the valve opens, ceramic pistons that got hot may crack when the cold water rushes in, and the valve may not totally seal on reset allowing air to enter the pump (cavitation) Just a few words on cavitation, it's the formation of bubbles or cavities in liquid, developed in areas of relatively low pressure around an pistons. The imploding or collapsing of these bubbles trigger intense shockwaves inside the pump, causing significant damage to the pump housing and internal parts. So the take away is do not let the pump run without keeping the trigger pulled for any long period of time, how long? the shorter the better, shut it off when not working it, typically two minutes or less is recommended. So now you know more about the pump then you want, (there's plenty more but for now) lets talk PSI vs GPM. The sales department will sell you on PSI, but you really need to understand the relationship between the two. I can let you hold a 3000 PSI wand with 2 GPM, and you can cut a 2 X 4 in half with it, but try and wash your wall or driveway and you'll be there all day. If I gave you a 1000 PSI wand at 5 GPM it will feel like a cannon, you will not cut the 2 X 4 but you will wash like crazy. You need the flow of water to move away dirt as much as pressure. A car automatic wash will typically use 700 PSI and 10 GPM to clean a car without removing/damaging decals and paint. A body/paint shop that is prepping cars/trucks for paint wants to remove loose paint, rust, decals, and the like will use 2000- 3000 psi and 4-5 GPM. A professional house washer is looking for 1000-1500 psi and 4-10 GPM. Now that you got a idea of PSI vs GPM, the next issue is how much water do you have available? A typical garden hoes is hard pressed to deliver 2-3 GPM, depending on the length and diameter of the hose. So for larger GPM models a holding tank is necessary, often referred to as a float tank, because it had a float valve in it (like a toilet valve) in it, this gives you a greater volume of water to work with also the best units direct the bypass water back into the float tank so the pump can run for a long time in bypass/unload-er and because of the large amount of water in the tank will not heat up. So if you made it this far, you might have noticed a reoccurring thyme, heat is the killer of the pressure pump. Not only the heat of the water, but the pump and oil in the pump, Weather electric motor or gas/diesel driven, the cheaper pumps are direct drive, attached directly to the motor and spinning at the motor speed (typically 3450 RPM) the pump will have fins on the casting in an effort to disperse the heat. The best pumps will be belt driven under 1000 RPM and have no need for cooling fins. Things to remember, You need horse power to move the pump, the most H.P. you will get from a 120v outlet is 1-1.5 that if really squeezed may get you 1500 psi @ 2 GPM. playing the numbers 2000 @ 1 GPM. To get real washing power you need H.P. a gas/diesel motor, for 3000PSI @ 4-5 GPM 20 H.P. All this can be easily found, better manufacturers have charts show the relationship between H.P. GPM & PSI. Also this is a very price driven industry, you get what you paid for. Manufactures use tricks like fooling with PSI/GPM numbers or the new nomenclature " cleaning units" to confuse and deceive. I hope this long winded message is of some use, and I will be happy to answer any questions. JOE

Hurrying home from a long hot day at a baseball tournament to have a cold drink and I encounter a major traffic jam on the mile long bridge crossing the Susquehanna River. I was sure t was a major accident, but after a 15 minute wait, this saved the day.

we will have some seat covers for early sixties tractors square and round $45.00 each Brian

Hi all, just picked up a '72 Commando 800 as a restoration project for my daughter, Rosie aged 10, and myself. Here it is with the proud new owner. And now the real fun begins.

calendar shot.

@stevasaurus I would save the horse head and mount the little green guy , then your horse could be named @squonkhunter. Make sure you put an eye patch on him. Going to miss you at the show.

Hello all I've never owned a wheel horse but I'm in negotiations 're a C121 as I saw it advertised and fell for it in a big way... I own old tractors and my intentions are to show the little horse alongside my others following a stripdown and refurb... just because I've refurbed bigger units doesn't mean I won't be asking your advice along the way as I little about them, parts sourcing etc so hope you will help me out as I go.. thanks all and I'll be back soon... I enclosed a pic of one of mine that i finished, thanks all.....Des

Hey everybody! Had to share this. I picked up a Wheel Horse 212 in great condition. I have been going back and forth on whether or not to make my Raider 12 a show Tractor or a work Tractor and now i got this one for 400 bucks. Now the Raider will be my show tractor!

I Bought this 200 about a year ago --- not running, gas tank rotten, no exhaust, sad seat, slop in steering --- and of course several other small things that were to be found later. The way its sitting in the pic I had cobbled together a fuel source just to see what I had. The motor started right off once all the fuel system was replaced/cleaned ---- BUT! it smoked like crazy! as bad as I have ever seen one smoke! but it was quiet, no knocking. So motor rebuild right off the bat Getting it running allowed me to check out the drive system and it checked great! The deck seemed to be good also. Tires were marginal. I paid $400 and I was very leery going that much, but I have a weakness for the D's so .... As it turned out, it was a good tractor, with less headache than I at first thought, the motor was a pain to get parts, but in the end I got them and it now runs like a new one. I estimate I put some $600-800 getting it in decent shape, and that doesnt count a hundred plus hours work. So It pretty much comes down to "how bad do you want it??" and how skilled are you at getting back into decent condition?

Thanks Terry. I am really liking the gold with those wood grained stickers and the muffler just kind of makes the whole scene.

The weight is 2x2 steel bars which span the frame rails. They're clamped on with some smaller flat bar and threaded rod

I'm down south in GA and I have never bought a new seat. I just find seats that need less duct tape.

Sweet looking tractor Steve... The gold does set it off . Going to miss you this year ... maybe fall Mentone ?

Those seat covers Jo makes are the BEST!

Excellent info Joe. Thank you. After going through 3 pressure washer, 2 Briggs and 1 Honda I decided to go with a horizontal shaft unit. 1 of the Briggs and the Honda lost the engines. The pump casting broke on the other Briggs. I now have a Generac and so far, so good. It seems to run 'easier' to me. One thing I do after each use is to squirt it with this:

It is not necessary to drain the pump after each use, only to protect it from freezing, and then adding an anti-freeze to the whole system is a better way to go, as it keep the seals from drying out and the check valves from getting stuck closed from the TDS in the water that can "glue the valves shut. Yep CAT pumps are one of the best. When it comes to detergents, you have two way to get "soap" from a pressure washer, many manufactures will included a valve tied into the input/suction side of the pump, this is called high pressure chemical injection.We in the business call it a soap eater or money maker, as it waste's you soap like crazy and is not vert efficient. (but we like to sell soap) Think of how you wash your hands you get them wet, soap up then rinse, you don't put the soap on at high pressure because it takes time for the soap to work, and really to clean anything, you do need to rub or brush. If you been to a car wash that just sprays on the soap and rinse's it off, go over that car with a towel and see how much dirt is still on it. The second way to get soap out of you unit is called down stream injection, were a injector is added after the pump and with low pressure (and oversized nozzle) the venturi pulls the soap out and mixes it under low pressure. Also remember that soap is sticky and corrosive so if you do put it through your pump be sure to run plenty of fresh water through the pump after the soap, as it ca eat away at the seals and stick the check valves shut.

Mike...Marvin was just keeping the horse still so it would not blur in the picture. That stallion wants to run. Monday/Tuesday is OK.

Very nice Steve! Liking the gold muffler.

When you arrive, they collect the money at a canopy at the end of the parking lot where you cross the road to get in to the camping area. You park your tow vehicle in the parking area where you pull in off the road on the right. They generally don't like cars kept in the camping area, but they are pretty tolerant of it if you are in the tent area and not where the RV power pedestals are. Hauling trailers are supposed to be parked in the field on the left as you pull in - they like to keep the main lot open for people coming to the show and campers personal cars/trucks. If you get there that late, I'd just try to find a spot, then pay in the morning when they are out. The folks that collect the camping money stay in the big white Montana 5th wheel in the back row (if that is what they are still using). Gate usually stays open all night so you should be fine. You will have a great time

If the belt looks good, take it off and start it. If the vibe is gone it's the belt,pullies or trans. If it's still there it's something with the engine.

After similar issues and maintenance nonsense I let someone else handle it - namely, the quarter car wash down the street...load the trailer, couple of quarters and leave the mess at the car wash...worked like a charm during my dirt bike days and does the same for most washing needs...

I think I've figured it out. If you go out to your tractor and turn the wheel all the way left. Look on the flywheel side (left) and then look underneath, you should see where the part that holds the tie rod would bind on axle if not for the notch being there. Looks like it helps with turning radius. Cory

Looking pretty ominous there... any 's get harmed during this event?

Discovered this Wheel Horse 212-H for sale locally, which was posted as having an engine that will not start with no explanation relating to the severity of the failure. It appears after speaking with the owner that the unit was running normally, started to backfire and ultimately shutdown. When attempting a re-start it appeared the engine was spinning free with little or no compression available to limit the crank speed and would not start. Having limited mechanical ability the owner felt the problem was more severe than he was comfortable undertaking suggesting the problem may very well be associated with a major internal component failure. It appears the owner made no attempt to troubleshoot any further to verify the integrity of the Crankshaft/Connecting Rod Assembly or Camshaft by at least removing the spark plug or valve spring cover just to check for piston or valve movement, so from this point forward any suggested possibility for the no start condition is pure conjecture. The Engine in question is a 12HP Briggs and Stratton Model 284707 Power Built. If further troubleshooting reveals the engine has a major problem that requires tear down or replacement to resolve, what would be a fair price for the unit as is considering its condition? Additionally, what are the more common problems or component failures associated with this specific model or type engine?

Delivering to the big show?

I can bring this pulling tractor to the show for a parking lot deal if you are interested. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/classifieds/non-wheel-horse/cub-cadet-128-pulling-tractor-r3251/

I'll drink to that!

Ok, sadly I only have the one picture and I don't know the year but it does have a gas tank it is just off on the picture it does have a three point hitch and I a, pretty sure a rear pro but I would have to go and look at it, I will see if I can get it for $250 Then I can't go wrong unless it has a blown engine

Typically, a Helicoil is designed to not be backed out. And because they are stainless steel, rust wouldn't be holding the bolt in to a Helicoil. So I'm of the opinion that it is not a Helicoil issue. My guess is that it is just rust. I restate my suggestion that using a good penetrating oil over a couple of days, and applying a little heat will help you get the bolts out.

The vise grips worked for me, at least temporally. I was able to mow the lawn without having to hold the throttle up.

Solenoid: 428.) Parts 429.) Solenoid {Non-O.E.M.} 430.) Mounting holes 431.) Solenoid on frame 432.) Hex bolts 433.) Installed 434.) Locknuts 435.) Installed {Bit of bad lighting in this pic.}

I have to agree with Cory that the notch is for spindle arm clearance, however, I turned the steering wheel and pulled the tire on both tractors, and the results were the same, not even close to the stop or the notch. However...the 416-H is a different story. Thanks for starting an interesting thread. There's always something new to be learned.

Tell Marvin I don't approve of him shooting the Horse! You got a Vette Too? You've been holding out on us Big Guy! Steve, I'm going to try to hook up with you on Skype on Mon or Tues as I prepare for "The Journey"

Cory nailed it. The front of my 76 is up in the air right now. It's to clear the spindle arm when fully turned to the left. Compare the right and left steering stops. The one on the right is 'taller' than the left and the arm hits it before the notch is needed and the turning radius isn't as tight as the left. Then, looking at my 500 Special that has a blade on it if the right turn was as tight as the left the tire would rub on the rod running up to the blade to angle it.

Here is a drawing from McMaster-Carr of the 9433K111 spring as mentioned in the previous post. I have used these on many models.

This may help. A replacement part number is listed in the first post. Garry

Thank you Joe for all the info. I have heard that it's the GPM not the PSI to look for. I have a Cat pump hooked to a 9hp Honda and run it on well water. I keep it in a heated garage and have never drained the pump after each use. This unit is at least 10 years old with occasional use and never had a lick of trouble. I've heard cat pumps are one of the best and that's why I purchased this unit, as you said it's not the price you need to look at. Also folks should check out a soap dispenser that goes on the end of the gun made by The Chemical Guys. This thing is pretty awesome, Google it. At work we have a 220V pressure washer that works extremely well, turn on the water, flip the switch and you're in business! It's wall mounted so you are limited to that area which has its advantages. Meaning that no one can borrow it!!! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with this great bunch of guys!

Plastics dry out folks. It's an age thing. Not a North vs South thing.

Good luck on your move, I'll likely be in the same boat in the next year or so. Sorry to hear you won't be at the show, it was good chatting before Maybe we will see you in 2018

I stayed to Sunday morning last year and plan to do that this year if the weather is good. If it's supposed to rain Sunday, I'll head out Sat night. I usually decide on Wednesday when I see the forecast.

I agree; sounds like a valve problem. You shouldn't have to dig too deep (tie rod) to fix it. I'd offer him $100, and maybe be willing to go to $150 because it looks like a well maintained machine otherwise. Did the owner keep the oil level up ? I don't think the seller will find many people willing to go to $200 for a non-running mower. Good luck, Jim PS - Let us know the outcome. We always like to know how good or bad our advise was.

you should have a spacer between the two pulleys on the mule drive so that the two pulleys do not touch each other.

Interesting! Yet another little bit of thoughtful engineering "magic" that offers up better performance (tighter turning radius here) than the competition, which is nearly invisible to buyers/owners. It "just works better". Little engineering touches like that were often discouraged by big companies, even in the era of the 1960s-70s -- it costs money to design and build the tooling as it gets more complex; over-engineering was discouraged. Of course, other manufacturers tended to use a design for a few years -- a decade at most, and then move on to a newer design. However much more Wheel Horse may have spent on engineering, they recovered and earned back several times over by keeping the same designs in use nearly forever. It's not even over-engineering, it's engineering to the maximum practical benefit. Things like that add up -- that's why 20, 30, 40, 50 -year old-and-beyond tractors can still out-work newer ones!

When a connecting rod breaks it is generally more dramatic than a bit of backfiring! If you remove the spark plug you should be able to hear/feel a bit of air movement as the engine is turned over, if not then the rod is the likely problem. If you are going to do the work your self it will be an adventure, if you plan to pay a service facility to do it the likelihood is they will want you to buy a new engine for $ 700 plus installation labor. Chances are that no one is going to offer him more than $ 100 in the present condition.

You say the mower ( I assume you mean tractor) seems fine. You say Belt tension from the tractor to the deck is good. The third belt is under the deck belt cover and connects the two side blade pulleys to the center drive pulley. Is this the belt that is loosey goosey? This belt has a spring loaded tensioning pulley that keeps the belt tight on all three blade pulleys.

The Lawn Ranger was just missed by the branches, but there is a Charger 10 under that tree. It appeared OK based on the best look I could get, but I will find out for sure when I cut that tree up.

Those three bolt hubs are off of a Lawn Ranger . Those Lawn Ranger 3 speed transmissions are usually in very good shape as most Lawn Rangers did not get a lot of abuse, wear and tear. That transmission will interchange with other Wheel Horse models with no problem. I use to be able to buy these for $50 or less and bought everyone I could as they are great for other rebuilds. Hubs can change with little problem also.

Ed has offered up a myriad of meritorious modifications that he has crafted, but for me the Front End Loader is the biggest work (back) saver I have ever found.