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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/26/2017 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    This past saterday i brought home a 702 parts machine. well it had some problems so i am in process of taking it apart. so today i got a little bored. i pulled 502 out and the 753. I pulled tank off 502 and it ended up on the 753 since the 753 tank leaks and i dont want to go through hassel of fixing the gasket. Now on the 502 I replaced the tower support arms and the steering support thing the one dad bought from toro was too thick and put the 702 gas tank steering wheel on it. sooo now its got everything where its supposed to be. but one question how many 1962 tractors here on redsquare have the adjuster for lift arm. something tells me it was put on by someone.
  2. 7 points
    For the thin wrench old blades are very tough steel they, will not bend . A hacksaw a file and some patience ...
  3. 6 points
    Hello, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1977 C - 120 Wheel Horse 12 HP electric start with a trailer. It's been in my family for almost 25 years. Then it sat for a while and needed a lot of attention. I've replaced the battery, plug, tires front and back, changed the dif and crank case oil. Muffler rusted and fell apart. I replaced it with a modern stack type muffler. Also rebuilt the carburetor. Sharpened blades and has new belts. It has a real transmission and high/low gear ranges. My question is..........What is this thing worth? I really don't want to sell it but I just don't have the time to keep working on it. Oh and I have the steering wheel but it was cracked so I'm using vise grips for now.
  4. 6 points
    I went ahead and bought a quality wrench and had the open end milled down. The box end is a Reese from our RV days. No more skinned knuckles for me. For the smaller nuts like on the double D blades a chunk of 4x4 holds the blade well.
  5. 6 points
    I doubt you'd be able to get good enough access on them to follow the original grind with a file or handheld grinder with them still on the deck. It's worth determining the size of the nut and getting a proper socket or wrench. The nuts on my 48" deck are 1 7/8" 1 1/8" -- the same size as the nut commonly used on a lot of trailer hitch balls. If you have a trailer hitch and ever put the ball on the receiver adapter yourself, check your toolbox -- you might have the correct size wrench laying around already! The blade rotation causes the nuts to tighten up by themselves as they run. They'll be torqued down very tight, and if they haven't been removed in a while, they won't want to budge without some gentle "persuasion". My method is to take the deck off and flip it over, then spray some PB Blaster or other good penetrant + corrosion buster on and around the nuts and let it work for a few minutes. Put a block of wood between the end of the blade you're working on and some part of the deck so that the blade end jams against the wood when you try to loosen the nut. Try loosening the nut -- and tap the wrench with a hammer a few times while you put tension on it. Not like hammering a nail, just tap it a few times. The percussion drives the penetrant deeper and also breaks up some of the inevitable rust "lock". Then, try wrenching a little harder, but not too hard. If it doesn't budge yet, get a rubber mallet and give the wrench some moderate "thwacks" with the rubber mallet as you pull on the wrench -- it will start to move. "Nudge" the wrench along with the rubber mallet and the nut will let go in a few more nice-and-easy thwacks with the rubber mallet. When you put the blades back on, use a little anti-seize on the spindle threads. Use the wood block again to stop the blade rotating when you tighten the nut. Get the nuts nice and tight, but don't worry too much about torque specs. They'll tighten down more when you run the mower, guaranteed. Edit: Dangit, that is 1 1/8"... typing is a pain sometimes!
  6. 5 points
    I picked this up a few weeks ago. I got the owners manuals and a copy of the sales add from when the last PO bought it. $1000 and it had 923hrs on it when bought and has 925hrs on it when i bought it so not much use by the PO it had sum issues. The front anti scalp wheels were not right and the front of the deck was out of adjustment so it would just dig into the ground when turning or on unlevel ground. Its a 2000 model no power steering unlike the 522xi but i kinda like it better i feel what the front end is doing and still is easy to turn. I have a hard time keeping a straight line with 522xi its so easy to turn and not much feed back through the steering wheel. The 60'' deck takes sum getting use too. Missing the front grill and has a busted head light lens but i do like it.
  7. 5 points
    Spending this stormy and rainy night in the shop getting a couple of tractors ready for two parades on Monday. My eight-year-old son will be commanding the 420 LSE and I will take a spin on the RJ 58. πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡ΈπŸ‡ΊπŸ‡ΈπŸ‡ΊπŸ‡ΈπŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ
  8. 4 points
    Have always wanted one of these & one came home with me today, @jay bee finally decided to let her go, she will take over the snow blowing duties from the C-141 who will be assigned the snow plow.
  9. 4 points
    854 for sure! You could restore one and keep one in it's work clothes.
  10. 4 points
    That's awesome of you Jeff. Orrrr, is this a way to have more tractors. By storing them at the neighbors that is. Seriously, Hats off to you.
  11. 3 points
    Heat is a good rust buster, but working with cast iron I think I would let it cool and apply some PB Blaster or whatever you prefer while it is hot and then after it cools down try removing it. You should put a quart or two of diesel fuel in it and (since you already have it off)use an electric motor or drill to operate it in all gears for several minutes then drain. This will get most of the water out of the bearings.
  12. 3 points
    Don't think the 62's had the adjuster as Bob said. Mine doesn't. I even bought an adjustable lift mechanism to swap mine out and the mount holes didn't match up. So I left the original non-adjustable on. Based on the square bolts on yours, I'd say someone swapped them out. Doesn't look factory to me.
  13. 3 points
    I believe 63 was the first year for that. I've always maintained that after 50+ years and so much part swapping it's nearly impossible to know for sure what was factory original. Wheel Horse created enough oddities themselves but I'm betting the early years owners also created many and Wheel Horse was 'blamed' for it. You just put a 62 tank on a 63. Nothing wrong with that and I like it but somewhere down the road It could be said that Wheel horse was using up the 62 parts on 63's. I think the best way to say something is original is by looking at the original parts list. If something is different then Wheel Horse may have been up to their tricks or one of the owners over the years........
  14. 3 points
    The most likely cause is the seat switch does not recognize the presence of the operator. When the pto (power take off) is OFF 1/2 of the pto switch powers the engine ignition. The other 1/2 controls the starter circuit. When the pto is ON or engaged the seat switch powers the ignition. Operator falls out of seat and the engine quits. Have the long tractor model number and serial number? Should be able to find a good wiring diagram of this circuit. Garry
  15. 3 points
    I look at the pictures,,,,,and wunder,,,,,Wow......its only a month,,,,,,,, WX11 and Lane Ralph will be MIA,,,,,Lifee has many pathes,,,,, Kate from the L.G. Tractor Magazine will be on hand,,,,,,,,,, Craig Rulz is being quiet,,,,makes me wunder,,,, and it will STILL be a full house......Squonk has talked me into the Wednesday night gather,,,,,THATS what worries me,,, loloolo with GPS and an address he supplied,,,,im set,,,, ok........its late on my clock,,,,,,,,
  16. 2 points
    This is how I clean my mower decks. I just let them sit for a few minutes after lowering them before I start them. I haven't had any issues.
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    I've had several 702's and never had the adjustable lift. Had one that some one made from steel and notched it but that's it. I no they get replaced with newer style prettyoften. Cause the tab breaks off like the one in photo. Second photo is what it should be.
  19. 2 points
    i'm just a shade tree mechanic, but I would probably put my brazing tip on my torch and heat it to cherry red to loosen the rust and back it out of there... I imagine you will get a lot of good ideas here...
  20. 2 points
    I just bought some parts in the hope that I can piece together a tractor. I will need other parts as well, some guards and a starter /alternator. There is no model number anywhere I can find. serial numbers are present on label under the steering shaft. Does anyone have a way to ID these? The 2 kohler motors are both 8HP.
  21. 2 points
    Here are the parts involved. Only thing that would allow that is a weld has let go at one of the ends of item 17. The round disc only holds the left side in position but being a welded assembly the right should stay in position with the left. Garry Got the picture from this IPL
  22. 2 points
    I didn't word that very well did I? Barring some anomaly or owner swap the 63's had flat steering wheels and the later axles.The 603 was the exception. It carried over the older axles and had an odd steering wheel.
  23. 2 points
    Most likely an 854... but depending on what that serial number actually is, it could be a 754. Are you sure both motors are K181, or just assumed from the size? Apart from the serial number and an original K161 engine there would be no way to tell. There was a small run of 422 that received 7HP engines instead of 8HP. Serial numbers 47916-48337 are the 754 models.
  24. 2 points
    ...and just another little clue, 855's and later (with the exception of Lawn Rangers) were square hoods. And to the best of my knowledge, if those K181 engines there are original to those tractors, there were no 8hp models in 1963 and prior. So that just leaves model year 1964, a hence the 854. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
  25. 2 points
    Separate 2 piece gas tank not under the hood. 855 and later had one piece tank under the hood
  26. 2 points
    You might try calling LJ Fluid Power. They have some stuff for the Sundstrands. (269) 623-4150 Β· 10118 S M 43 Hwy Delton, MI 49046
  27. 2 points
  28. 2 points
  29. 2 points
    I put a screw driver through a drilled hole in the deck. Place the blade against the screwdriver and then wrench away. The screwdriver holds the blade from spinning...Works like a charm...
  30. 2 points
    Aw come on now......are we going to let this 'what model/year is it' get by without other opinions? Ummmmm, yup.....an 854.
  31. 2 points
    If McMaster-Carr aint got it no one's got it! (although MSC Direct rivals MMC and then some! We had a guy at work who had more "Yogi-isms" than Yogi Berra. McMaster-Carr was always "Master-McCarr" My favorites: Instead of "opening Pandora's Box" it was "opening a pan of boxes" and the other was "smokes like a fish"! Aldon, I see you keep your compressor on the pallet like I do. Going on 20 yrs.
  32. 2 points
    Is there an empty house near you?
  33. 2 points
    When I was still working, I had this clamp set for holding turbine blades on a 5 axis mill and coordinate measuring machine. A little pricy, but they really work well for various height work.
  34. 2 points
    Tee nuts and studs of different lengths. Check McMasters Carr. Just measure your slot and order the one that fits. https://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-table-t-slot-nuts/=17s9wyb And the clamps .https://www.mcmaster.com/#table-clamps/=17s9yjy
  35. 2 points
    I have been so busy, but looking forward to get this running. Thanks for everyone's help! Truly best people on the web are right here. I belong to quite a few forums and this is the nicest and most helpful of them all! Randyu
  36. 2 points
    No problem Randy....I'm always looking for another reason to walk out to he barn and check on the horses.
  37. 2 points
    Glad you got it fixed - I'd recommend running it awhile and dump that oil/filter again just to be sure to remove any contaminants that work loose over time . I change all of mine yearly in the fall and again in the summer if they are ran hard with a lot of hours working - much cheaper than rebuilding the pump/motor section or sourcing a good used unit . Sarge
  38. 2 points
    The Acceleration valve springs are likely to be the culprit. They modulate the flow of fluid to produce a smooth acceleration and when the springs go bad the valve won't open properly. The acceleration valve at the rear of the unit is for forward, the one at the front is the reverse valve. Each has two springs on it and you may as well change all four. Member @refracman hooked me up with a person who had a bunch of these made up a few years back. The hardest part of the job was removing the left tire, fender and other stuff; then putting it all back. Take a look at the Sundstrand Manual and you will see the steps involved.
  39. 2 points
    I thought so too. I wasn't expecting it to start that easily. I think keeping it in the garage all those years really made a difference. I was very surprised by how clean the oil was. Comparing the the old spark plug to the new one, the old plug was in poor condition.
  40. 1 point
    Probably a good idea, but I have done a couple of head bolts to remove a gas tank and re-torque then hot torque and got away with it. Rather be lucky than good any day.
  41. 1 point
    Wheel Horse made a special wrench just for that, 11/8" with a thinner head to fit under the blade to hold the spindle while a second wrench loosens the nut. Here some for sale today on eBay under "Wheel Horse wrench":
  42. 1 point
    You need to loosen all the head bolts before you take the two out, then re-torque them when your finished.
  43. 1 point
    It's a 87 212-6 .... I always tease my neighbor when he comes over on his Saber . His boy 4'th birthday is coming up and twins on the way . Found this pretty cheap , needs a fan gear or something down in the steering . Going to have it fixed and give it to them to run around .
  44. 1 point
    You need to check the tee nut measurements described but you will also need to know the slot width at the top.I have a 10" turntable that takes a 3/8" stud and the tee nuts came in two different top widths.I believe that 1/2" tee nuts also come in different top widths as well.The sets that Ed pictured are really great and the are not that expensive.
  45. 1 point
    I have that tractor....what area do you need?
  46. 1 point
    I would caution trying to turn the steering wheel to break it loose. I broke the lower steering shaft assembly doing this. This is what was on my 69 Raider.
  47. 1 point
    Designed this to clean out a clear cut lot at a friend's garage. Should work well. Mostly brush and small trees. I tested it out across the road in some pesky knotweed after the township cut it back. I'm going to make some gussets at the hitch point. This was just an eager test run πŸ˜€
  48. 1 point
    I, for one, am a strong believer in using only OEM belts. Many on here will point you to their use of aftermarket from NAPA, TSC, or the like and they have had MOSTLY good experience with them. However, I have NEVER had an issue with any OEM belt ...hands down, without fail...even if a few bux more..
  49. 1 point
    Absolutely, just re-torque afterwards. The 8hp Kohlers have threaded blanks in those 2 spots with nuts so you can do that with out torquing.
  50. 1 point
    Hood stand bracket and pump bracket welded on and fittings welded in. The sides are welded up. Now I have a lot of grinding to do before final assembly. Hood mounting bracket. Valve mounted. And I finally found a good place for the hydraulic filter.
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