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Well here is my much anticipated bucket list tractor. Thanks to @whtractors24 for finding and giving me 1st opportunity to purchase this one, and to @CasualObserver and @smokin joe for the insight on this true original 754. Tractor is all original as far as I can tell. It has what I have never seen before, but Wheel Horse branded 6-12 ags on the back which are in rough shape, I'm hoping I can somehow save these, seat pan is completely rusted through also has hole in the tool box. This tractor sat in PO collection for about 10 years untouched, my plan is to get it running and driving and that is probably all. Enjoy as I am still trying to settle my excitement on this rare find that I though would never happen. Serial #48337 Kohler engine K161s spec#28626E

Had a fun day getting out the 876. It's my first wheel horse I ever owned and I've had it since I was 8. I got out the plow and went to work. The kohler 181 was tough and had no problem what so ever. I can't wait to do it again!

Over the last few years I've added a couple more horses ('78 C-161 & '83 C-145) to the stable but they both were in need of new mufflers as well as a lot of TLC. A friend and fellow RS member was in the same situation with his little collection. After searching all the usual online sites and keeping a close eye on CL and here on RS for used mufflers, it seemed a losing battle. The new ones were just too expensive ($230-$300) and the used were almost non-existent, and if you did find one of them they were pretty pricey AND pretty used. We knew we wanted original equipment style. Something tucked under the hood and was not going to be so loud as to upset the neighbors or their dogs!!! With that in mind, we got together with a local custom exhaust manufacturer and showed him the factory mufflers and pipes from my '76 B-100 and my friend's '79 C-160 and asked him if he could duplicate that type system. He said he had never worked on anything that small but would give it a go. After three or four prototypes we finally got a final product that was well built and looked and sounded the way it should. The muffler is aluminized steel and has internal baffles. The exhaust pipe is made of 16 gauge aluminized steel also. The muffler has a tab welded on the lower side so it can be used on engines with or without the cradle mount. For us, it was well worth the time and effort to get the mufflers we wanted at an affordable price, and just a few bucks more than a used one!!! We now have O.E. Style mufflers that will work on my 10hp, 14hp and 16hp and also my friends 12hp and 16hp Kohler engines and a few extras on the shelf. I've included some pictures. Third pic is on my C-145, forth pic is on the C-161 and the last pic is of the plumbing.

Tractor had been sitting for a month or so and would have cranked a long time before starting. With the primer, I pumped it until it felt hard then just touched the key to start and the machine roared to life. This is the test machine. If it works properly then I will install one on all of my 520's. Fuel line is long in this picture. If primer is to be permanent I will properly shorten the line. Cleat

Ya got me for sure Steve. I didn't scroll down far enough to see your last statement before I was scrolling back up to look at it again. I was thinking "why would he say that". That's a dandy Tom. As nice and straight as you're likely to find an original one.

That is the wrong belt guard on that horse. Got cha... Very nice find Tom.

Or it could be the ign module. Next time it stalls, check for spark right away to see if it is electrical.

Having bought a 312-8 in the UK last year for the princely sum of 135GBP I am now looking to put it to work around our property. Lots of ground work spring and autumn, snow ploughing come winter.... 850hrs on the horse, runs really well. I gave it the once over stripped down the carb, new fuel lines etc. New oils. Before winter is out I will be building a snow plough and grader. I have a 500l water tank to use for the blades.... Also need to convert an old horse drawn two bottom plough. Just on with making a clevis hitch and some lead wheel weights.... This site has given me plenty of ideas and I hope to be able to contribute in the near future!! Cheers Jody www.rideczech.com

Youtube video of my 1979 Wheel Horse C-161 throwing some snow!

We had a mobile home set up on our property for my mother-in-law. She passed away December, 2015. We have been using it for storage since, but it's in bad shape and is an eyesore. So we going to tear it down. So we needed to move some things out of it yesterday. So I hooked my HF 4 x 8 trailer to the 416 and moved some things from the mobile home to one of my sheds in the backyard. After I was done, I snapped this picture before I put the tractor away.

I think that one's on a lot of bucket lists, Tom. Nice score!!

The common denominator appears to be heat. When was the last time the engine covers were removed for a thorough cleaning of the cooling fins? When was the valve tappet clearance last checked? Valves get longer with heat and if there is not sufficient tappet clearance to accept the expansion the valve ends up not seating and you lose compression. Cools down, valve shrinks and compression is restored so it runs again. Garry

On the way home finally, thought I'd share a pic of my bucket list tractor I picked up today. found a couple strays along the way

Okay, Figured with the long break in any significant weather I'd go ahead a tear this thing down and freshen her up! Started with a 42" dozer blade, frame and self fab'd extension setup which was made of new stock as well as modifying my old standard blade angle adjust level to fit the swept front end tractors. The frame was rough and came with my 1990 520h/ 1995 312-8s (S= swept front axle I added). There weren't any stickers on the plow frame and blade which was a 48". But I bent that and picked up a really nice 42" that did have numbers. Not sure if they are legit but I will post them later. Blade and new wear bar. (3/8" x 4" ) Disassembled and sanded down... Some shots of last of the rust that I was only able to hit with a wire wheel. Then hit with Rust Fix which will turn this stuff into a black primer. Same thing I used on my 520h Rims. Quick peek of what this stuff does on the right side of the photo... More to come... Stay tuned...

Just picked this up this weekend. I have mostly wheel horse but Always wanted one of these.

Just got this 701 home. Nice addition to my collection. Always wanted one.

Found this today trolling the internet . . It states that it's a 1958 model ( wouldn't that look great next to a RJ ) , the gas tank is in the handle , and is missing some parts . I've never seen one . I'd like to add it to the collection but I have to many projects . Just thought I'd share a cool piece of history .

No problem Howard, Just keep your head covered.

6 Foot pipe handle....!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ed!!!!!! I will peek over the edge until its all better,,,,,, Duckin low in Va.......the land of no Snow

Like roadapples said a little at a time

Nice cab... Is that a heat collector on the right side? Is the belt guard vented? I just captured the heat behind the PTO and mine stays 30F warmer than outside temp.

Paul, I think I have your answer, but to know for sure...somebody is going to have to do this that has those transmissions. The answer is "yes" you can swap the differentials. After doing some research with part numbers and schematics and Service Bulletin #252...here is what I find:: This concerns transmissions 6 & 8 speeds from 1967 to 1973. In going from a 10 pinion differential to an 8 pinion differential, the bulletin has you take the best of the 2 axles (short or long) and procure a matching axle...so you have 2 the same length. The bulletin also has you change out your 11/44 toothed gear from a 1 piece to a 2 piece. (the difference being the 11 toothed pinion is not machined the full length in the 10 pinion differential). It looks like the 8 pinion differentials come with the 2 piece 11/44 toothed gear and the machining goes down all the way. WHY:: Because in the 10 pinion differential, the bull gear is 3/4" off center to the left. When you change to the 8 pinion differential, you move the bull gear to the center and if you have the 1 piece 11/44 toothed gear, the bull gear teeth will be hitting the part of the pinion shaft that is not machined. I think I remember some guys getting around this by suggesting grinding off the teeth on the right side of the bull gear. Now to make it simple...if you have an 8 speed transmission with an 8 pinion differential, you should have the 2 piece 11/44 toothed gear. I don't think you would have to put a 1 piece 11/44 toothed gear in to go to the 10 pinion differential...that machining is already there. So to go from an 8 pinion to a 10 pinion differential it should go right in. To be correct, your axles should be 3/4" different. There is one issue to consider though (and this might be more pointed towards @daveoman1966. I think this would work also in the Sundstrand Hydros (like Dave wants to do). The one thing that bothers me here is if you are trying to do this with one differential that uses the #1533 bearing to hold the carriage and another differential that uses the #111199 bearing. Paul is also going to have to see what 8 speed he has on the shelf. I don't know, it may not make a difference either.

You're right Mike but for me I just would like to see if it can be done. I'd actually prefer the 8 pinion over the 10 but this gets brought up fairly often. I wish I had the parts here to check it out.

Buy another tractor for Summer use and just use this one in the Winter.All kidding aside,sounds like the ignition coil may be getting hot causing the stalling problem.Next time it stalls,have some ice in a plastic bag handy,hold it against the coil for a few minutes and see what happens.

Both of these end caps in ALDON's pic above have a BEARING RACES (8052) which are either Heat-Shrunk-fit or somehow bonded to the differential end caps. The SHORT end cap (1.875") (on top) is part # 8051 and the TALLER cap (2.625") (lower) is part # 8050. Here are a few pics showing dims. End caps 8050 and 8051 can have either the bearing race 8052 as shown or the Roller Bearing 1533 that we are all familiar with.

Have also used Dave`s method. Do one side at a time, no need to remove trans., And you don`t need a welder...

Update. It appears that the reason for the "Smokestack Lightnin" was the timing was waaaay advanced. Also explains the purple ends on my chrome stack. Oops. Anywho, I appreciate greatly the input from you fellas that chimed in. I had made up my mind that the carb was leaned out. You guys kept me from heading off the wrong direction. I regret that I didn't get a smokestack lightnin video for ya. Thanks again, Gentlemen. Mark.

Alright. Engine bored .010 over and reinstalled. @stevasaurus came through once again with some help and pictures. It's amazing how many pictures you take, you don't seem to have the one you need. She fired right up and purrs like a kitten. Very pleased with the outcome. Considered swapping the drive pulley for the PTO pulley, but didn't have a belt that would work. Not sure what a half inch would have got me anyway. Had to cant the pipe forward a bit. The lever to pivot the snow blade needs a tad bit more room. Hoping that will do it. The high heat red caliper paint didn't hold up at all, so repainted with the white high heat paint. Didn't refinish the steering wheel as I couldn't get the blasted thing off!!! May have to drape everything and try doing the best I can with it on..... Very pleased. Now onto the next one!!! Already have a project in the works for my D-180..............

Picked up a tall chute today. It's going to need some TLC to get it looking better. Price was reasonable. Going to go completely over it in the summer so it's ready for next winter. Time to start studying all the snow blower threads on the site. Model is 79-360. Auger doesn't look to bad. Side panels are on wrong and bent inward.

Regarding the 520xi, are you sure that it is 2,889 hours or 288.9 hours? There is a .10th hour digit on the meter. Also the hour meter only registers with the engine running. It is in series with the oil pressure sensor. A puff of smoke at startup is common for the Kohler Command twin. Hydro noise is also common in the cold.

Nice one for sure. It is also on my bucket list. That is the last one I would like for my collection.

Finally that type muffler new and reasonably priced. I spent in the past close to that amount these cost in used ones that were advertised as good and were blasted and painted only for them to develop holes or cracks around the welds in less than two months. I got one of these and it is very well built. It is heavy. The separate elbow provides more flexibility in installation in different tractors than original with fixed elbow. Although I got it for a c125, I am going to attempt to mount it on my Electro12 after taking a look at it today. Looks like it will work. If successful I most likely will also replace the others i keep patching up on the c125 and the c120. Great product.

So that is what one looks like original. I have one that I want to make look good this spring. Thanks for the pictures.

Thanks everyone for the advice. It'll be a couple of weeks before I have a chance to work on it. I'll keep you posted on the progress.

Large adjustable wrench.. a little at a time...

And on that note the B-100 could be Zaccheus!!

Congratulations on finding your first 754; unless I miss my guess you are already on the lookout for another one! The "Bucket List" isn't complete until your bucket overflows.

Glad you got her going! Just assumed you were checking spark through the plug. Many times it's the simple things that catch us all because they are easily overlooked. I had a NGK plug quit overnight after plowing snow the previous day. Went to start it in the morning and just got a little puff, then nothing but cranking over. Thought for sure it was a fuel issue because I checked for spark through the plug wire only but after a few hours of freezing my butt off, finally figured it out. Should've confirmed spark through the plug the first time checking it which would've saved some aggravation.

Exactly, its electrical. Module or rotor ring.

If it cranks slow, that's the first place to start. If the voltage drops below 10 volts while cranking you wont get enough voltage to the coil for a strong spark. If you put jumpers on it and it fires right up then look at connections to the starter and ground. If all those are good do a voltage drop test to the starter. Connect volt meter from battery+ and to starter terminal. Crank engine and record voltage, Should be near 0. Anything above 0 indicates you have High resistance in the starter circuit.

Oh! Matiffman You wrote Odd looking angle adjust handle though. You know how we think we can make things better then the engineers that thought these things out I'm one of them. I 'm the kind of guy that makes use of what I have around me if I think it will produce what I think is good and acceptable to take pride in speaking with people of a experience capacity . Snow Plow handle original way just never felt comfortable to me,can grasp trigger so I flip it from original position and brought angle down to reach at my thy level and let weight bring it up without reaching way out, works better for me,smooth as it can be for manual plow. That's my .25 worth

sounds like it may be a fuel problem, like its vapor locking, check to see if your fuel line is close to a heat source anywheres or if the carb is somehow getting heat directed to it. could also be something electrical is heating up and shutting it down then when it cools down it will restart

Another one........or two???? Dr.Trimble you have The Disease really bad. The symptoms continually keep getting worse.

Nice haul! I keep thinking id like to grab one of those A series units. And you you can never have enough GT14's i just picked up another one today.

I ahd the same issue a few years back... used 2 pieces of 1/4" x 2 angle iron...no welding required. ps...welding may close the cracks but I think you'll find it also makes the metal brittle and subject to cracking again. With these two corner brackets / braces it should last forever. As soneone else noted, you'll need new bolts to the trans...about 1/4" longer than original, but not too long. Use 3/8" dia bolts on the sides with nylok nuts.

Sold my bikes back when yapping on the phone became more important than paying attention to the road & others . Do I miss it ? Absolutely ! Had a '79 Sportster "slammed" My Thumper '82 XL500R Now I get my kicks on 4 wheels . If I mess up there , it's probably gonna be my fault ONLY

I'm seeing no blue flame.