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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/09/2017 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Professor Jim Anderson, AKA @JAinVA has spoken; nothing I could add to that!
  2. 6 points
    Picked up two new machines this month 1955 Rj-25 1965 1045
  3. 5 points
    I thought I would just post the pictures of what happened. I did not want to do a whole "How to" thread, as we already have some excellent threads out there. Prondzy's "How to Thread" was my inspiration...along with the Kohler Manual. Here is Mike's link... The manual is in the Manuals section. I am going to number the pictures so it is easier to talk about things...should there be questions or comments. Thanks Took pictures of linkage, gas lines, etc. to be able to put it back together. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. Now we are looking at the parts cleaned, bored, etc...from the machine shop. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45. 46. 47. 48. 49. 50. 51. 52. 53. 54. 55. 56. 57. 58. 59. 60. 61. 62. 63. 64. a short video of the new Kohler running.
  4. 5 points
    No, it was an option on most models. Also, the 953/1054 are manual transmission tractors that came standard with a hydraulic lift.
  5. 5 points
    A hydrostatic transmission uses pressurized hydraulic fluid and requires a pump to generate that pressure. Pressure is generated and transmitted by a pump or a series of pumps. Some manufacturers called their hydrostatic lawn tractors , "automatics", but in reality they were hydrostatic transmissions. But, the term automatic may not necessary be a hydrostatic transmission. Case in point, Cub Cadet had gear drive lawn tractors in the 90s that were called AGS, or Automatic Gear System. They had a forward and reverse pedal, but also had a lever for different gears. These were just gear drive transmissions, with the idea that you obtain the direction of travel by pressing on the appropriate pedal. But, the proper speed had go be selected by the lever that was on the fender deck, i.e. first, second, third, etc. The pedals had to be pressed all the way down and released all at once. And you had to stop the tractor to place it in a different speed gear, or to change directions. Most of these tractors had their clutches burned up in them since most owners tried to drive them like a true hydrostatic transmission. On a 3 point system, hydraulics aren't required, but most tractors will have some type of hydraulic system to operate them. But, some manufacturers used mechanical systems, like Sears, Power King, just to name a couple, to operate the 3 point system. The 3 point system was design by Ferguson and had a patent on it until the early 50s where no other tractor manufacturer was allowed to copy. This patent was up for renewal in the early 50s (1952 or 1953 as I recalled) and Ford tried to renew it, but a federal judge said no, it was too important to the ag industry to not to let other manufacturers use it. A 3 point system has two lower arms and one upper central arm to operate an attachment. How that system was lifted and lowered was usually done with hydraulics, but as I mentioned, there were some mechanical systems designed to operate the 3 points.
  6. 5 points
    I think most of the terms are what someone thinks they mean.I will give my thoughts but others may disagree.A hydro transmission has no clutch pedal.Forward and back are controlled by a lever or pedal but not a clutch and a brake pedal.A hydrostat uses a lever or a pedal to give variable speeds forward and reverse regardless of engine speed.This is not in my mind a true automatic transmission like used in an automotive application because of its limited speed range.Three point hitches almost always have some sort of hydraulic assist although some garden tractors had a manual lift that would use standard 3pt attachments. JMHO ,JAinVA
  7. 4 points
    I joined a while back and forgot about this site until something jogged my memory. Not much of a computer person, but site is simple and between my wife & i, I'm making a little progress & loving it! Got my first W.H. about 1965, an 854, then went to a 1075, then bought a new C160 in 1974 w/ mower deck, loader. (Ark 500) and breaking plow. I used the 1075 and the C160 continually, as I worked nights and did odd jobs (usually small tractor work) during the day. Also traded, bought, & sold a little bit, & also worked for a dealer in spare time. I've had my share of experience and had probably every attachment ever sold by Wheel Horse except wagon,power take off & belly blade. I learned a lot from these times, and enjoyed every minute of it. I have only two now with a couple blades, tillers, mower decks, breaking plow, & some home built "toys". dunngawn@hotmail.com Ron Addison
  8. 4 points
    Thanks.... There's a little more to these "newer" horses than the older ones I'm used to working on but I enjoyed this refurb. As usual, I always get lots of help from the guys here if I have a question or a problem. What a great forum!!
  9. 3 points
    I knew you would solve this mechanical phenomenon Jim. I was also going to ask Wes if the new tire dia was the same as the old ones and if the Techy and Honda were running at the exact same RPM when he made the speed trials. But, V groove width or belt width will certainly be a factor in determining effective pulley circumference. Well, I didn't make out as well at the ELKs meeting. But then, my problem was trying to convince 50 drinking smokers that they should pass a no smoking policy in the club during the Friday night dinner hours.
  10. 3 points
    A LARGER engine pulley will equal faster speed if the driven pulley remains the same but how much depends on the size. How much larger is the new pulley? Change the transmission pulley to a smaller diameter pulley too. Play around with this calculator http://www3.telus.net/shebang/pulley_calculator.html
  11. 3 points
    One thing is the paddle broke off the piston rod. It also had a broken spring on the ACR...and the rings were by-passing oil. I don't know when the paddle broke off, but it caused the scoring on the crank shaft journal. Had that turned to .010 under. Norm, I did not paint it because it was my Dad's and he did the pin stripping on it. I wanted to save that and not have it look new and have to do the rest of the horse. I have another K 181 to do on my 876...I am thinking painting that one and a restoration.
  12. 3 points
    My thoughts...a little knowledge is a dangerous thing...ignorance is bliss. Just sayin'
  13. 3 points
    I'd be afraid to touch them, they're that nice
  14. 3 points
    What ED and Richard said !!!!!!!!!
  15. 3 points
  16. 3 points
    After looking at that pair I need to wipe the drool off my computer screen!
  17. 2 points
    Hello all, I have plenty of friends here on the 'square and I think most if not all CT members know me or of me. I decided to post this because if you dont laugh you'll cry. This is one of those stupid things you do and MOST times get away with... not this time, but nobody got hurt. The scene... its snowing like heck, lots of slick stuff and ice... add in a 30 hp hydrostatic mid size JD tractor with FEL. My sick friend/pseudo boss calls the shop and asks me to move a few boats around so the yard can be plowed. No prob, I 'git er done.... Then I step on the hydro pedal and the tractors rear end kicks out, hmmmmmm flash back to manchester CT Caldors parking lot circa 1989 with Vin and Matt and the '68 Nova. DOUGHNUTS!!!! So here I am doing doughnuts on tractor and having a ball... then I loose it and tractor goes into bad skid. I search frantically over next 2 or 3 seconds for brake pedal... no dice, I look up, think to myself awwwwwww poop and crash. FEL opens driver door on my Silverado like a can opener. Yep... 45 yrs old and pulled a real stupid move. Nobody hurt... anybody else got similar stories? Tony
  18. 2 points
    today i bought a wheel horse b111 at th scrap yard! 75$ I thought it was kinda neat, it was almost all complete minus the ignition switch and fuel tank! it has the 4 speed trans i believe, original stickers, i think it has an 11 hp briggs, which wasnt locked up. So is this tractor at all valuable, was it any good? reliable? How hard is it to get a key switch? thanks!
  19. 2 points
    to the . The first step in assessing your tractor is to print out the manuals that you will find in the manuals section. Switches are readily available, but they are different, so you need to ID your tractor and check the wiring diagram. If you need help, It is best to post some pictures of the tractor and hopefully a ID plate with readable numbers. This will help the moderators find the correct link to the proper manuals. As far as the value of the tractor, you answered that .... $75.
  20. 2 points
    I'm guessing it ran about 5.5 MPH with the 2.5" pulley.
  21. 2 points
    I upsized the engine pulley by 1" (2.5" up to 3.5") and my 606 Predator runs about 8 mph now. I left the original rear pulley in place.
  22. 2 points
    Ed, Looks like I'll be able to solve my problem easier than you will be able to solve your Elks problem haha. If I had any advice I'd certainly pass it on to you!
  23. 2 points
    Ed, You would have no problem with me and my vices as I more than happy to take them outside.I don't know if Wes's problem is solved but I think he may be on the right track. I had commented to him that I don't think that the Honda revs as high as the Techys or something to that effect.JAinVA
  24. 2 points
    I'll just throw out some food for thought. Why do we run our deck drive belts on the larger inside PTO pulley? A. so the blades spin faster B. so the blades spin slower C. all of the above D. none of the above
  25. 2 points
    Think about your average multi-speed bike. Keep the rear sprocket the same. When chain is on the biggest sprocket in front it is way harder to peddle but man do you go at top speed...Now shift the front sprocket to the smaller one in front, keeping same sprocket in back. Way easier to peddle, but you sure don't go too fast... But...I'm thinking Ed's post Elk's round-up may produce a superior and far more intellectually stimulating answer, and I am not waiting until 3.14 (pi day) for the answer...
  26. 2 points
    Good job Dino! Taking lots of pictures is one of the most important things you could have done as a first timer. Have a couple.if questions: Noticed you originally had the .003 piston installed. Did the machine shop stamp .010 on the block deck? Is that what the cylinder was bored to? Noticed tappets weren't marked for location after install. They are different lengths, did you get lucky reinstalling them? One final question: Do you have a final tally on what the rebuild cost considering you did all the labor? Again, great job on the photos and rebuild!
  27. 2 points
    Jim...this was my 1st one...I am so dangerous about this it ain't even funny. Give me a transmission, I feel better in that arena.
  28. 2 points
    You could set up at the Big Show and rebuilt motors while entertaining everyone with you stories
  29. 2 points
    So what you waitin for Brandon...... agreed.... check out the black trim around the seat edge!
  30. 2 points
    Welcome R.L. Glad you finally posted a Hello thread. And we like pictures.
  31. 2 points
    My 1076 Automatic has the hydro lift, and I'm sure glad the PO opted for it. It makes snow plowing a lot easier on the old shoulder joints.
  32. 2 points
    The axle is not hard steel and drills easily. The older axles that had the roll pins used a 1/4" X 1 1/2"...that was for 1" axles. You would want a roll pin that is 1/4" by about 1/2" longer then the 1 1/8" axle...if available. This and the above options are all good.
  33. 2 points
    To 'piggyback' on this subject, did all hydraulic transmission WHs also have hydraulic lifts for the deck or plow??? Seems like I've seen some that were called 'automatic' or 'hydraulic', but didn't have the hydro lift. Still learning. Jim
  34. 2 points
    The t-bar would benefit from an additional plate added and a thicker bearing surface , I'd bore it out and add a plate , plus a bronze oil bearing on each side . Maybe even a harder or slightly larger rod .... Sarge
  35. 2 points
    JAinVA is 100% correct.But he forgot to mention......E equals MC squared.
  36. 2 points
    If you have a steady 12 volts in this last one that is your problem. When the points are open you should have 12 volts. When the points are closed you should have 0 volts. If it does not go to 0 volts the points are not closing to make an electrical connection or the contact surfaces are oxidized and not making electrical contact. Clean the contacts with a point file or nail file and then drag a strip of white paper through the closed contacts to clean them. The points open once for every 2 rotations of the crankshaft so when cranking you should see the coil (-) voltage go from 12 to 0 once every 2 rotations. At cranking speed a test light will also show this changing voltage. Once you get that it should run. Garry
  37. 2 points
    A couple of years ago my jd dealer did a dealer search and got a new compression release spring for me for a 12hp 301.
  38. 2 points
  39. 2 points
    It pains me to admit it but there is one other possibility. A couple years ago my L107 that my father bought new in 1967 started to slip going up a slight grade. I figured the 40 year old belt had lost its grip... Wrong!! Neither was it the hub or woodruff keys axle or input shaft..... Turns out one of the rear tires had lost air pressure. Sidewalls were stiff enough in the winter so you would not notice. The bead had broken and the wheel would slip in side the tire... not an every day occurance
  40. 2 points
    Clean clean clean. Glenn
  41. 2 points
    You gonna restore them or leave the patina? That's a couple of nice machines there.
  42. 2 points
    Buffing??? They look 10 times as purdy than any one of mine which are mostly younger.
  43. 2 points
    stevasaurus , daveoman1966 and pfrederi THANK YOU for all your help and you all are right on ,I have the 8 pinion differential .But I still have a little jerky motion in reverse and that was why I said I would get into it this Spring. when I first got this tractor it had a bad axle from the PO trying to get the hub off the axle . he beat the snap ring off and I had to replace the axle but while inside I did notice it was very clean. so I just replaced the axle and a 1533 bearing I got from a member here and everything worked good. BUT I did not open the pump. Not knowing then what I know now and I have learned a lot from guys like you and Dave and others about the pumps and how they need to be checked after gear failure .Well the parking pawl was eat up by the gears (I DID GRIND OFF THE TEETH ON THE PAWL ) and this is why the PO probably opened the trans and had a time trying to get the hub off, (By the way I finely had to split that hub to get it off) I was following Dave in a post and this man knows his stuff and he said that one would need to check the piston slippers and plates for scoring and I didn't . So that is why I said I might need to open it up. it just started to jerk a couple weeks ago after plowing snow and then again Saturday. here is a few pics of pinion and pawl
  44. 2 points
    Well, I'm getting closer to having this back together. I've got the rear tires on and now have the correct battery hold down installed and a set of LED tail lights. I've still got to paint a cover plate for the dash tower, put the rest of the decals on and get a steering wheel insert from Glen. I found out the alternator wasn't charging and a new rectifier regulator fixed that. Next week I need to take it outside and warm the engine up good so I can torque the head bolts again and I'll need to fine tune the foot pedal linkage....... I painted the rims Argent Silver from Eastwood's. Do you guys spray a clear coat over that and if you do what do you use?
  45. 2 points
    So it's been quite a while since I've been on here. Haven't had much time to work on the horse. Last time I was on here I put up pics of the 54" plow setup I redid and installed. That was summer time if I remember right. Welp.... I ordered 2 link tire chains as a Xmas gift for the horse. I looked everywhere for cast wheel weights and they all want 300+ bucks for a pair of 50lbs weights. So.... I got creative. I have a weight set I use to work out with. I picked out 2 50lbs weights and 2 25lbs weights (150 lbs total). Drilled 2 holes per weight, drill press hated that lol.... but did it. Went to hardware store bought 4 9" bolts, nuts, washers, etc. Put on the chains, put on the weights, and she likey. I'll put up a couple pics Forgot to mention I made up some "spring assist" as well. The blade goes up and down easier.
  46. 2 points
    Years ago had a B-80 did the same thing.
  47. 2 points
    Had the same thing happen years ago when I owned a yellow and white tractor.It did have a 12 horse Kohler though.Would start right up.Run great til it got hot.Backfire and quit.Come back later,it would start right up and run great til it got hot.Then the same thing.Back fire and quit.One day I decided to hang around the tractor after it quit.I heared a small metallic click.I tried and it started right up.Come to find out,the exhaust valve had so much carbon around the stem that it was sticking open then slamming shut as the engine cooled down.Pulled the head,de-carboned everything and it was fine.Good luck.I'm sure you'll be just as lucky.
  48. 2 points
    Always thought this one was impressive... note the cart on their last pull. ...though, not Amish... this one is pretty cool to watch too.
  49. 2 points
  50. 1 point
    I would guess Richard @953 nut nailed it. A piece of carbon holding the exhaust valve open and it dislodged itself. You may want to schedule a head pull and decarbon.
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