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I kept looking but didn't see any... http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/wooden-construction-equipment-models-53539#post78252

Ok, there is no way that I'm the first guy to do this. I was looking for a replacement for my destroyed steering wheel. The options to fit the shaft were few and I thought a bit expensive. Thinking back to when I raced dirt track, I had a brain storm. Or a slight drizzle. A steering wheel quick connect is a 3/4" shaft. $25 for the quick connect and $32 for a Grant classic wheel. No modification made to the shaft. I drilled a hole in the coupler for a roll pin. I might rig a spot weld on it. Cool thing is if the wheel is in the way while doing maintenance, it takes half a second to rip it off. Mark.

Two stage for 2 Franklins...I think I stole it . Model 79361 SN 6900607 so my guess would be 1997? Found out about it through my daily CL saved Wheel Horse search email blast. Immediately I recognized the seller as a local guy who awhile back had an implement package I SHOULD have bought... I had him in my contacts yet so a quick phone call held it for me. He had it on CL for 350, dropped it to 250 and when he recognized me 200. It's in pretty decent shape but down side all is not there ... missing the chute rotate crank & support & for sure the 117556 lift rod. Any chance you would have the rod Lowell ? @wheelhorseman1000 The crank & support I can easily make. Not quite sure what else might be missing. . Downloaded the manuals so will have to study them as well. Any help/tips from you 2 stg veterans is appreciated as always. More pics to come once I get into fitting it up to the 520.

I've found power coating to have 2 virtues, it can coat areas hard to cover otherwise and it meets current VOC restrictions. I think it's popularity is mostly due to the latter and not because it is superior to high quality paint. I find it chips and once it does rust is happy to get under it and grow. Through the decades I've found Rustoleum 769 primer to be outstanding! I have a heavy wheel barrow that was rather rusty over 20 years ago that was only wirebrushed and only primed with Rustoleum 769 and today it has still not rusted any further after sitting outside every day since! Pretty good test I'd say! There are other newer and higher tech primers and metal preps but all I did was wire brush and prime! Rustoleum 769!

http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/chainlink-extreme-4x4-53626#post78413

11-9-1990 Willie Nelson’s assets are seized by the IRS “We try to work with taxpayers,” Internal Revenue Service spokeswoman Valerie Thornton told The New York Times in the autumn of 1991, “[a]nd if we have to come up with some creative payment plan, that’s what we’re going to do, because it’s in everyone’s best interest.” The creative payment plan to which Ms. Thornton was referring in her statement to the Times involved a unique revenue-sharing agreement negotiated between the IRS and the beloved country singer Willie Nelson, who was then struggling to repay a $16.7 million dollar tax debt that had led the federal government to seize all of his assets one year earlier, on this day in 1990 Willie Nelson landed himself in tax trouble as a result of investments he made in the early 1980s in a tax shelter later ruled illegal by the IRS. With interest and penalties on top of his original unpaid taxes, Nelson was facing a tax bill in excess of $16 million, and though his lawyers convinced the IRS to accept a $6 million cash payment to settle the entire debt, even this was more than Nelson was able to pay, despite being perhaps the most bankable country-music star of the day. “He didn’t have $1 million—he probably didn’t have $30,000,” his daughter, Lana Nelson, told Texas Monthly magazine of her famously generous and free-spending father. In anticipation of negotiations with the IRS breaking down, Willie Nelson had his daughter remove his beloved guitar, Trigger, from his Texas home and ship it to him in Hawaii, where he was golfing when the feds raided his home on November 9, 1990. “As long as I got my guitar,” Willie Nelson said, “I’ll be fine.” Ultimately, Nelson did get to keep his guitar and even got his Texas ranch back, but not before the government auctioned his home to the highest bidder in January 1991. That bidder, however, was a Nelson fan who purchased the ranch at the behest of a group of farmers who threw their support behind Nelson in thanks for his work in organizing the Farm Aid charitable concerts. In June 1991, Nelson released a compilation album entitled The IRS Tapes: Who’ll Buy My Memories?, the first and perhaps last major-label record album ever released under a strict revenue-sharing agreement with the Internal Revenue Service. While the revenues generated by The IRS Tapes did not come close to settling the debt on its own, Nelson did manage to retire his debt to the federal government by 1993.

The crank rod is the same from a single stage tall chute I know that for sure (I made an extension to bring mine closer into the cab, did you get the frame mounted rear belt guard/sway bar support (1st pic) if not I have one available and sway bar (2cd pic) I don't have an extra 1 of those? Then you'll be chucking snow like the last pic,Jeff.

Electric chute control is an option. Couple different ways to do them. Fairly simple and you can do the deflector too with small actuator

Two pieces on that crank. If you need dimensions to make them let me know. Easy fab job.

I will see what I got - I can get you some pictures if you need them of my 2 stage mounted up to my 520 with 72 hours on it!

Whats in my trailer?? I always wanted one ...and this one fell in my lap... Missing parts tho

Found this and just thought I'd share.. might be something a guy knows already but I thought it was interesting read...... Kohler made five different cylinder heads for the 10hp, 12hp and 14hp K-series and Magnum engines through the years - The First Generation Head - This cylinder head was manufactured by Kohler from the early 1960s until 1971 and was available only on engine model K241 (10hp) before engine serial number 3184999. It has a heart-shaped and wedge-contoured combustion chamber and is now known as the high compression, "LP head." The spark plug is centered in the combustion chamber. This particular head was originally made for and came on the very early K241 (10hp) engines. It'll also work on the Magnum engine model M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp) engines and the early K321/M14 (14hp) engines with a 1-1/8" exhaust valve. But being the later 14hp engines have a larger exhaust valve (1-3/8"), the exhaust area in the head would need to be machined out for use with the bigger exhaust valve. And because of its high compression ratios, if this head is used on a 12 or 14hp engine, Premium, race gas, E-85 or methanol fuels must be used, or the engine will overheat and wear out too soon. The compression ratio is 7:1 when used on a 10hp and 8.6:1 when used on a 12hp. If this head was used on a 14hp, it would yield a 9:1 compression ratio. And LP heads did not come on nor will they fit the 16hp (K341) engines. This head requires 2-1/2" long bolts. And due to early technology and design of the combustion chamber, the majority of the expanding gases or combustion pressure is placed over the valves instead of the piston, resulting in lower engine performance. The number embossed on this head is 235461. Cub Cadet part # is IH-385303-R1. It is no longer available from Kohler or new from any other source. NOTE: This particular head was originally designed many years ago ONLY for the 10hp (K-241) engine because these engines have low compression due to their small bore and short stroke. The only reason anyone would put one of these heads on a bigger engine today is to attempt to get more power out of it. Also, people found that the LP head worked better than a newer low compression head on an engine burning liquefied petroleum (propane) gas. LP gas is a high octane fuel (about 110-115 octane). Therefore, it burns more thoroughly and produces more power in a high compression engine. That's why these heads are known today as the "LP head." Also, the LP head, when used on any size engine including the 10hp, have been known to cause detonation (pinging) nowadays even with 93 octane Premium gas. That's why Kohler stopped making them. They replaced them with the "dished" head. Ê However, high octane race gas, E-85 or methanol fuels can be safely used with the LP head. If you want to use an LP head on your engine, the genuine OEM Kohler LP head is no longer available from Kohler or any other source. They haven't been made since the early 1960s. They were discontinued when the 12hp engine came into production, because this engine require a lower compression head. So if you need an LP head, remember, they came only on the very early 10hp engines equipped with the starter/generator and no indention on the side of the block for the upper mount gear starter. But if you can't find an LP head at all or for a reasonable price, what you could do is cast an aluminum head just like the LP head. An LP head can be CNC-machined from billet aluminum, but if you prefer a head that's close to the genuine product, first, you'll need a good LP head to use as a mold or pattern. The Second Generation Head - The second type of head manufactured by Kohler has a heart-shaped and a depression area in the combustion chamber. It has improved technology over the earlier LP head. Kohler engineers made the depression area for a special reason and it helps engines to produce more torque and horsepower than the LP head at any RPM. This head was installed on Kohler's 10hp and 12hp engines, before the 14hp engine went into production. It's a good head. It flows good and with increased compression. The "hump" directs the incoming air/fuel toward the piston at higher RPM. Unlike the sought-after, but misunderstood LP head, the depression area places the majority of the expanding gases or combustion pressure over the piston instead over of the valves, which produces more engine power and torque. The spark plug is centered in the combustion chamber. It was lowered in compression and was made for both the 10hp and 12hp engines, but would not work on the 14hp engine because of its' larger exhaust valve (it was manufactured before the 14hp engine appeared) unless reduce the size of the exhaust valve on a 14hp to a 1.125" (same as a 10 & 12hp) This can be accomplished by installing a valve seat insert in the block for the smaller valve. By the way - this type of head is not officially a "high compression head" because it has a depression in the combustion chamber. It is however, 'slightly higher' in compression than the newer style heads, but it's not a "high compression" or even an "LP head," but the next best to it. The compression ratio is 5.4:1 when used on a 10hp and 6.6:1 when used on a 12hp. If this head was used on a14hp (the exhaust circumference area would need to be machined larger), it would yield a 7:1 compression ratio. By the way - Kohler no longer makes this type of head either. These early heads require 2-1/2" long bolts (OEM Kohler part # 236546-S; number embossed on head is 235461, but not an LP head), and the later ones require 1-1/2" long bolts (OEM Kohler part # 236675-S). Also, the reason Kohler redesigned the head with the low bosses for shorter head bolts is so more air flow can past over the head bolts to better efficiently cool the other parts of the head.

I started talking about this in Stevebo's meet and greet thread, but decided to separate it out and not further hijack his thread, LOL. It's starting to look like I'll need some help at any rate. So I picked it up Sunday from the second owner who bought it nearly new around '66 and it had been sitting. I tried to start it but it had a hung valve. I put some ATF down the cylinder and lucked out, the valve unstuck by itself. I've gotten it to run a few seconds at a time on ether, but the fuel system is all gunked up, I've got the tank off to start cleaning it up, and there was a lot of gunk in the carb bowl. The pics aren't great, it's still in my covered stock trailer hiding from the other resident at my house. It's sometimes prudent to introduce new family members slowly. Here's the tractor: My first conundrum is the black "fur" in the gas tank. The pic below is of that same fur in the fuel strainer bowl. Is there an easy way to clean that? Will anything dissolve it? I scraped at it a little and it's soft for the most part. Thanks.

I built a pulley setup for my new tiller. The two pulleys, spring and belt used are the Toro or equivalent. The shaft is 3/4 plain steel which I threaded the end. A few bushings and spacers to line it up the pulleys. The black 3/4 stop collar just lines up the belt as I just slide the shaft in from the drivers side. Tension seem to keep it there in use so I did not add not to the other side. The spring just slides over the stub as the setup is slid in. The eye bolt is left on the tractor and can be turned to adjust tension on the belt. I guessed on the spacing on the pulleys and it works well. Pics for those who build one. The tiller is setup on a 417-8 in the pics. Comments Welcome

Ok, im new to Wheel Horses and I'm in love - I picked up a D-200 a few months ago for super cheap ($150) and sold it a week later when someone offered me a pile of cash. I regret selling it but after some research I found a 520h for sale (pic attached). It has 800 hours, looks like it has been taken care of, and comes with a box blade and wheel weights and a 42 inch deck. I'm told that it overheats a bit after 30 minutes but I'm thinking there is a fix for that. My questions are what all attachments will this thing take and is it really the beast that I've heard that it is? I know its not a D-200 but I want to be able to hook up about anything and be able to work. I wouldn't be working it daily - mostly just weekend stuff on my 8 acres. A little bit of everything, plowing, discing, tilling, grading, and mowing - thanks in advance for the advice!

Another Wheel Horse followed me home! These horses sure are friendly, they just don't take "no" for an answer. This one is a 1975 C120A. These are good tractors, I hope! This one came with a 42" deck and a plow blade. If these Horses don't stop following me home, pretty soon my property is going to look like a Horse ranch! Any tips on persuading these Horses to not follow you home, or is it hopeless? Sorry for the dark pictures, I just unloaded it from the trailer.

Now that is a plan, I need to find one of those oil pans... Well after a little moc-up it does look like I will be able to get the clearance I need to not cut the frame or hood. It does look as if I will need to modify the M10 blower cover a touch and relocate the battery to under the frame but that is nothing big in my mind... I believe it will still have the 857 look with the big block motor.

I just finished up converting the model 79252 plow that was originally for the 26x series lawn tractor over to install/hook up on the "classic" B,C,3-4-500 series tractors by stripping the original lift linkage off and welding in the center lift point/bar and rear quick hitch,Jeff.

@flatheadrich My great, great, great grandfather was born on a ship while his parents were coming from Wales to the US of A.

Better hurry up and get that 2-stage thrower. It snows early in the Scranton area, and he might decide to keep it. If it's the seller I'm thinking of, I already got his tall chute 1-stage. And once you get there, you might find more things in his barn that you can't live without. Jim

I just took another look at your pic. There are two pieces, one is a short tube and the other a rod bent into a crank. Looks like you have the tube. I'll get some dimension on that crank rod once the sun come up! Should be easy to make. Kurt

Yes! I for one will be there and I'm sure others will be as well. There is new, used and reproduction parts for sale and lots of swapping of parts and stories going on! It's a great place to be and the new friends that you will meet that share the hobby with you are fantastic!

Careful with the decals when cleaning. They are delicate and will wash off or peel. I hit mine with a power washer and removed some of the black lettering on the stickers. For a degreaser I like Gunk spray on. Let is soak and hose it off. For the paint, either leave it alone or wipe it down with oil once clean. That patina is too nice to repaint or clear coat. There are threads on this site about oil rubbing tractors....mostly in the restoration section. I wouldn't clear coat it. It's more original and natural the way it is. There are also reproduction seat covers available by a fellow member if you look in the vendors section.

Easy to push the snow while I sip java and watch!

His site is amazing in the knowledge that can be learned from it. I will say this though, read and re-read things carefully. There are one liners in there that are hid that can totally change the outcome of a rebuild. If I would have re-read some of the info I would have saved myself a lot of time and money. This site is full of good stuff. I just wasn't smart enough to absorb what I read the first time or just totally missed it. Take your time, there is a lot of good and tremendous information in there.

My old Ford LGT165 had a hose washout on it. Made a mess wherever you used it and worse yet, I got to replace every spindle bearing after only one year of use. I would never use one again.

The best thing to do is drop it off on Saturday AM in my barn and never come back.... we will take real good care of her... lol

Absolutely. I hope this is not against the rules. Scroll down to the yellow highlighted box and you can open different informational sections. http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/index.htm

Brian Miller is a wealth of Kohler info. I use his sight a lot. Thanks.

As many of you know I am basically an RJ guy and do not really deviate from original, yes I like to build clones but the clones are as they would have come off the factory line. The last couple RJ projects have pushed me into building something else. As I really do not have a worker tractor in the family I thought it was time to build one. So I turned to my brother and as usual he found the perfect "must have tractor"... what did he find? A 1967 857. At first glance it was a pretty solid tractor with minimal rust, ran strong with no smoke and most of the original parts were intact. Even with that it did have one major issue... third gear was gone... I mean a real grind fest! With that it started the wheel rolling in my head. I had a lead on a "free" B-60 with an 8-Speed but a tired motor, a perfect swap in my mind... and that's exactly the direction I'm going, blending the best attributes of the 857 with the B-60... I want it to still look like a 857 at first glance but as you look closer you start to see things like the 8-Speed, wider front rims and the seat spring system. There is even the thought process of adding a set of vintage lights and upping the HP to a Kohler Magnum 10... As usual the entire build will be up step by step on my YouTube channel so please take a look and comment... suggestions are always welcome...

For the first time in my 40 year old life, I changed oil, gear oil, a fuel filter, and an air filter. Woot! Now I am looking to rewire my headlights and apply some grease. I was just going to grease the spindles, but I noticed some grease plugs on each side of the back axle. Is there anywhere else that I should think about greasing? Is there any other maintenance that I should learn? Thanks guys!

OK.....this might sound ,,,uh ,,,,,any way,,,,,,,,I ask my wife,, if she wanted to go next year (2017) she has never went.......and she said yes...!!!!! This got my thought process started....... 1 I will make suttle changes to the Mash Pole,,,,if enough of you want it back....N,S,E,W.......looked ok to me....but sum Mash Pole sign owners had issue with just 4 places on the pole.... so,,,we're gonna fix that....... 2. I liked being able to put names with faces....im working on that......fixed really,,,,,just letting the clock tick... 3, I really dont like the folding chairs we bring ....they are really un comfy,,,,So i will find some old folding chairs like we grew up with....the legs dont poke thru the ground and you can take a better Nap....they are still out there ,,,,,just have to look.... 4, My tent got sprung in the wind this past year....I already have a new one...... 5,, I am started on my 867 resto already.....I have pics.....dis- assembly is on the camera.and .It looks like the 401-8 will stay home this year....and 2 85-somthings will come.... 6,,,,am i missssing anything???? 7,, i have a feeling,,,,the turn 2 in-field is going to be packed this year...Where else do you find a Trac Chair and Lawn Tractr cycles.??

Keep 's clean, oiled, adjusted and greased and they will last forever...

Now I've seen your shop and that looks to be an organized engine bench!

Me, I got the electric pump from NAPA.

Sounds impressive! Why wouldn't everyone want one! Sales feature with no benefit! Cost's very little and offers even less.

Thanks bro... some dims of that lift rod would help Yes Kurt I was thinking it was one piece. IPL shows one piece Looks like the support can be fashioned out of conduit Never had such a quick easy CL score ... in my trailer less than a hr after I saw it! yah rub it in !

Well, I didn't even manage to get the project started before first snowfall, but it will come around. Took a turn with the C-160 and dozer blade to get rid of the first snow. Great fun! My plan is to have the C-120 8-speed with dozer blade, and the C-160 automatic with snow blower attached in the future...

Bob Rock's @whlpny D-Rod might be about as close as we're going to get. But you never know

That is a perfect example of a survivor! I wouldn't touch anything on it except give it a good pressure washing and make it run good again. What a great score that little tractor is! Mike

A nice example of an 875. I've never owned a Hydro Wheel Horse, but this is a good candidate for a de-greasing pressure wash and a clear coat to preserve the patina.

Blower will make the driveway and front yard have a much cleaner look then piles of snow pushed way back to make room for the rest of the year. I have both and I have a gravel drive. My blower is set with the skids tall and that takes the deep stuff and moves it way back. Than I hop on the "V" blade tractor to clean off that last 3/4 " off to the side but not in the grass. This system works great for me and keeps the piles of snow to the minimum. If I do get a really wet deep snow, the loader tractor makes quick work of that heavy wet mess.

Well, cleat was right - different offset on the wheels - I ended up making a shim from 1/8 inch stock and reworking the posts on the brake -gained 3/8 inch and have loads of clearance now - thanks all.....

Hey Walt: I will be attending the Big Show next June, and would be glad to take them to the show for you, and receivers can pick them up at our booth at the show. Will also be attending the Mentone, IN show in the Spring. Just have their name on them . . . (I'm 10 miles South of you, N. of Eaton Rapids on M-99) PM me.

Trouble? Five Horses have already followed me home! I am already looking at number 6! The thing is, my wife and I have so much work and different jobs to do on our property, it just saves us so much time to have a different set up for each common job, instead of constantly reconfiguring one tractor every time we do something. For example, this C120 will be set up as our primary mowing machine, our Raider 10 is set up for plowing/dozing work and heavy hauling, the 857 is set up for garden plowing and discing, the Lawn Ranger is our trim and tight spaces mower and small yard work hauler, the Suburban 551 will be the garden cultivator, and we are considering one more to be set up for misc. woods and trail work. None of our gets bored!

Why does everyone but me have a mid-mount....

Yea and it really stinks I won't be going

If this is not allowed, I understand. I have a friend that has an AC B-1 (parts tractor) and a B-110 that he is interested in getting rid of. The B-110 is a working tractor with mostly garden duty (see the tiller). He wants to sell the entire lot. If you are seriously interested, PM me and I will give you his phone number. The machines are in Dubois County Indiana.

MUTT! but a very nice one; Save it!

I put a HF winch on my 312-8 and have the grader blade on the regular lift.