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Certainly I respect your opinion. There are some products that I might feel the same about, Canon Products being one. But if you think about it without Toro: we wouldn't have the parts supply still available today that we have and able to keep our tractors still working. without Toro, Wheel Horse tractors would be disposable. Then add this: the 520-H tractors, 520-HC tractors, and 520-8 tractors would not have been produced. the Steering Reduction system would not have been produced. the 60" mower deck would not have been produced. the two-stage snowblower would not have been produced. the five different 5xi series would not have been produced.

Just wanted to send my best wishes out to people who are dealing with flooding in Minnesota, Iowa & western Wisconsin. My prayers are with you.

Just got a C105 with a k241 10hp and I have been trying to clean it. Changed oil and trans fluids ,new key switch, plug . Adjusted points and valves . Checked all wiring and switches . Charged battery (holds a good charge.) Fixed a flat tire. Removed gas tank and carb and removed all the junk in them and changed gas filter. It didn't run to good when I got it so I went through it to find out why. So I tried to start it and it ran worse then when I got it. Started up after a few cranks but it loped and bucked a little and back fired. I could smell gas in the exhaust so I shut it down. My first thought was the carb must be dirty or a fuel jet was pluged. I thought I might as well get a rebuild kit for it.(didn't have to) I read a post about others changing condenser, coil, and fuel pumps. So I decided to change condenser, I have a good coil and condenser but when I looked at the coil there it was. I said to myself how could I have done this . I HAD THE WIRES TO THE COIL BACKWARDS. So I put points and condenser on negative side and the positive to ignition switch and it started up and runs fine now. I did not know it would even run with wires backwards how can this be ????? Don't mind the rug on the seat. It needs a new one.

I know you guy's aren't ones to talk me out of buying a Horse but here's the thing . Last week because I hesitated I missed out on a 520-8 for $750 . It was a high hour machine 1800hrs. Rebuilt engine at 1400 , said was a strong reliable machine , rough but all there. Message him earlier in the week but I waited to long here's a pic , maybe someone on here got it . So know a came across a 520H close by , said runs drives , doesn't smoke, and has strong transmission . Issues are tires , electrical , seat , and dash . He says it's all there, been sitting outside for a year and he doesn't want it to waste away . If it doesn't sell he going to part it out . Its price is lower than the first one and even less if I don't get the deck (60") . I really want a 520 for use and the big show next year . As some of you know , I can't work on these my self , hence my love for running driving , dirty barn fresh survivors . But for a 520 I would like a nice tractor . I'm thinking all white or just white hood with Terry's patriotic themed graphics to make it my own . I really don't need more projects but the price is hard to beat , and should be under a grand with everything fixed (it's the when and who) looking new . Or should I just put it off and wait for a cleaner tractor that cost a grand or more ? Here's some pics of the 520H , neither one of these tractor owners are members here . Let the backlash begin ,

Guys, I've known of the location of this tractor for three or four years now. Kept telling myself "one of these days I'll stop and ask about that old tractor". One day not too long ago I actually did stop but could not get anyone to answer the door. The tractor was nearly impossible to see from the street unless it was winter time as the plant growth kept it pretty well hidden. I have no idea how long it has sat outside in the postion I found it. A long time I'm sure. Anyway, I was down at the Mentone show/swapmeet (just south of Elkhart about thirty-five miles) on Friday and got to thinking about the old tractor and decided to stop again to check on it and to find out if it was for sale. An elderly lady answered the door this time and I introduced myself to her and explained why I had stopped. I asked her if she or her husband would consider selling the tractor to me and she said "my husband died about a year and a half ago so lets walk back there and you can show me what you're talking about. So we walked through her house, out through her enclosed patio, across her garden patio, and then were able to see the tractor. I said "that's the tractor I was talking about". She said "that ol thing? You can have that! I've been wanting it out of here for a long time. My daughter's been complaining about it cause she's always having to mow around it. Just come get it and get it out of here!" ............I was stunned! The next morning at the restaraunt I go to every Saturday for breakfast I was telling all the boys at the BS table that I had been given a tractor out in the south part of Elkhart that I had spotted several years ago. One of the fellows who has a few early Wheel Horses himself said "there was a guy out south a ways that had an old Wheel Horse that everybody and their brother has tried to buy but he would not sell it for love nor money. He passed away a while back. His name was Becker." I looked at the name of the lady who owned the tractor that I had written down along with her phone number. Sure enough her name was Becker. I told my buddy "That's the one!" Then the conversation lit up. He said "You got to be kidding!" I said "Hey, right place right time!" ............................Guy's this kind of thing doesn't happen to me, always the other guy! Anyway it looks to be quite complete. Has all original tires, original seat, and still had the key hanging in the ignition switch. But above all the engine is not stuck! Will be quite a challenge but a lot of fun too! Gary

I use my 1967 and 1982 Wheel Horses regularly during the summer (every week or two) - subscribing two the old saying, "Use it or lose it." Follow all the maintenance items described above and run them with respect and care. I have not noticed any degradation. From time to time, something will wear out, but this happens with new machines too. It's a good way to get to know your machine inside and out. I've been surprised at how well a well maintained 50 year old Wheel Horse still does work. Honestly, they are as good as a five year old machine. My advice, don't treat it like an antique, or it will become one.

Sounds good.... They are 1/2 the price of the Gates belt at NAPA around here. Thanks! I'm a little paranoid about belts right now. I just sold a 60" pull behind Swisher mower. No matter what I did (and I tried EVERYTHING) it would throw the belt. Had it checked and adjusted by two different Swisher dealers, one sold me a Swisher OEM belt because they said it was "special". Took it home and it didn't run 5 minutes before it threw the belt. Something as SIMPLE as that and it won't work is absolutely maddening. The bad part is the guy who sold it to me (it was like new) told me he couldn't keep a belt on it and I thought..... "no problem". I told the guy I sold it to it wouldn't hold a belt and I could tell he was thinking I might not be to sharp.

I would not worry about the stabilizer (there is some evidence about it causing extra air bubbles and frothing that gets suspended in the oil almost permanently). Just keep fresh, good quality 90wt or 90-140wt in there and it will be fine. Some howling is normal in high, especially when you are over driving it. As you said they are all straight cut gears.

I would have to say that the C-160 hydro I had fell right into my # 2 choice behind the 520. If you haven't had a snow cab I can tell you this.. I first thought that a cab without heat would be nothing more than sitting in an ice box. Not true. Once the tractor warms up the heat off the tractor warms it up in the cab. I'm not saying it'll be like Florida weather in there but I have had to take my coat off on more than one occasion... You won't regret having a cab...

The intake manifold on the Onan engines is of a two piece aluminum design. The sealant they used to seal the two halves becomes brittle over the years. This causes extra air to be sucked into the mixture giving an erratic surge and incorrect fuel to air ratio. I had the same exact problem on my John Deere 318 which has the same engine and the 520. On the recommendation from a thread on a JD forum I took the intake manifold apart, cleaned and re-sealed it. The surging problem was gone. Also the carburetors are known for gunking up. Take that apart and clean out the jets and passages. Last thing is the fuel lines. Ethanol in todays fuels breaks down the inside of older fuel lines which also clogs up the little passages and jets in the carb. I highly recommend replacing them with new high quality fuel line. I had the same issue as you and after doing all of these things my Onan runs excellent! As a note make sure the fins on the heads are clear of grass clippings etc. The Onans are notorious for loose valve seats due to over heating.

Sometimes it's the simplest little things, or things we overlook. I remember when my Cub Cadet 104 (one of several I had at the time) wouldn't start one day. This one always started, but this time it didn't. So I pulled the carb off, cleaned it, put it back on, still no start. Then I saw why......I forgot to turn the fuel valve back on....

It shows up for the very first 42" rear discharge decks 1976 model 65-42MR01 1977 models 75-42MR01 and 75-42MR02 Disappeared for 1978. There is a part number there but the description is wrong. Suspect the original 105832 part number got used later for a grooved pin. Garry

IMG_0167.m4vIMG_0167.m4vIMG_0167.m4vIMG_0167.m4vIMG_0167.m4vAldon: In the early 80's, Wheel Horse offered a metal strip (Baffle, 3x30") to be bolted on there, only offered a short time ? What I did is bolt on a 4" piece of thick rubber, so it stuck out about 2" --- this greatly reduced the "updraft" of dry grass clippings (that settled on tranny & shift area), and helped keep the grass spread low & further. You may have to shorten it to 1" where the rear wheels may hit when turning. I recommend doing this, really helps. Glen (Kitchen floor edge, 4x36" costs bout $2-3, better is 'baler belting' at farm store, 4x120" is $8). Photos added 8:15pm. On the cost of Baler Belt, OMG, at our local TSC a 4"x10' piece was only $8.95. Could be any kind of heavy/thick rubber, like left-over horse-stall mat, or truck bed mat, or . . . ?).

Third tractor in my herd, factory 3 point hitch option. Putting her to work then restoration once I get it like I want it.

This is a video of me on my 520 which is now in the collection of Stevebo as his dedicated snow machine. My choice of best Wheel Horse snow machine is a good solid low hr 520 with the direction control between your legs. This 520 had roughly 350 hrs at the time the video was taken. I could never get into any kind of a groove pushing snow on any Wheel Horse with the direction control on the column.. This was my kind of a storm, I don't get real excited about pushing snow that is less than a foot deep... I have owned MANY Wheel Horse tractors thru the yrs. not too mention other brands as well. NONE could have done what the 520 did with such ease on this day, I think the video backs up my choice...

Unless your dealer is a complete putz, I'm of the opinion that patronizing your local dealer is the best bet for maintenance items. Why not? He might go to your synagogue, sponsor a kid's soccer team, be on the volunteer fire department, or tell you about the trade in that just came in from a little old lady who only cut grass when she came home from church on sundays. Besides, the OEM belt fits properly and is constructed of whatever rubber and pixie dust that's required to make it work correctly. Does this always work? No. You might buy a Kohler filter that was made in some offshore sweatshop by an 11 year old. But I think you stand a better chance of maintaining your continuity if supply if you get it locally. Steve

City park in Medford underwater some sandbagging around houses by the park. County Rd 45 south of town closed, road overtakend by water, also a couple houses being bagged. Fire department set up making sandbags. 10 miles west in Waseca 13+ inches of rain

Something I'm trying to convince myself, with limited success, and probably won't get all that much support here either, is that bigger isn't always better. I know, blasphemy! But I don't need more than 8 hp to push my 48" blade. I have a 520LXI and a 522XI. I don't need a 523XI. BUT I WANT ONE! But I don't NEED one. I have a 416H and a C-160. I don't need a 520 anything! But I want ALL of them! To fine tune and focus a bit, I would like a 520 with a swept axle. Why? Because it will take a BIGGER 60" deck! BUT I don't NEED a 60" deck! I just bought a rather nice 264H so now I want at least a 269H and why can't I have the biggest? A 270? 'Cause I don't NEED it. I know. Blasphemy. I'm trying to refocus on features rather than just HP. Sears and others have been offering 42" lawn tractors with 20 plus HP! Why? My 14hp Powerking will cut through most anything! Crap it's a brush hog! A friend in the business calls the extra HP sold today in many machines a "feature with no benefit"! But we and "Tim Taylor" all have to have the biggest! Because! Man I would love to have that 520-8! Just look at it! Biggest HP ever made in that model! And the rugged versatile gear box! Lust!

Brian, There is an error in the wiring manual. It should look like this. My 1995 520H has a red wire from B+ to the fuse.

Belive me I wanted to be in the 520-8 club , but it sucks not being able to jump in a vehicle and go . Someone in Indiana bought it .If you're a member here congrats , the previous owner didn't have a clue what he had . I do see where @953 nut and @Aldon coming from getting a nicer machine . I'll be the first to admit that we here on this site usually don't discourage buying Horses . I'm just looking for some constructive criticism . Should I start out with something with good bones and hopefully not be to far off of what the tractor worth when finished . When I get into this tractor and find to many problems , I could always part it out maybe make money . If start off with a nicer tractor and do the hood , graphics , there still may be underlying problems. Then I will definitely be over what the tractor worth . Most of my tractors I own I can get out from underneath them and break even or sell for a little more . Yes this a hobby and I don't plan out coming out rich if I had to sell everything . It's just that if something happened to me and the wife had to sell things off at least she'd stand a chance of not loosing her shirt .

Every Onan twin that I have,and I have several,that had a surging problem was a plugged carb.Engine surges.........clean carb.........surge gone.

That had to hurt later!!

I have used vinyl baseboard material for the same purpose.

Go Jeff Go Jeff

Is this happening only when there's a full moon! Seriously, unless it's excessive I wouldn't worry about it. I'm with Brandon on the gear oil. No stabilizer. Make sure you lift the front of the tractor when you drain it. The center bolt on the bottom creates a hump that traps a fair amount of oil in front of it.

As for the bottom of the deck, use this stuff. It would also be good under the rubber footrests. The gray rust coater is 50% higher in price, but is UV stabilized. The black product is fine for use under decks where the sun don't shine. The product reacts with rust and dries hard and shiny and very smooth. It sticks to rust BETTER than bare metal. I power wire brushed a very rusty deck and used gasoline applied with a paintbrush and then wiped off the surface with old rags and again wiped it with lacquer thinner. That's it, no primer needed like the POR stuff. After it cured, i used a power wire brush to test it for abrasion resistance. the stuff did not hardly scratch and still maintained a semi-gloss sheen. Pick a cool day with low humidity and the finish will be smoother as it cures from moisture in the air. A steam bath of a day will result in tiny air bubbles in the finish I have never used a product that so exceeded my expectations. i bought mine at Rural King.http://www.agriguardcoatings.com/agriguard-rust-coater.html

Last time i lost a small wheel off my tractor it had a tire on it,,,,, Welcome to RED SQUARE$ !!!!!!!!!!!

Techy's can be cantankerous critters but they are good engines. My old 654 with the original H60 (avatar) runs like a clock. I live right down the road from you in Noblesville and would be more than happy to help you get it running. Don't give up!

could be a few things... (a) The two ACCELERATION VALVES ...maybe stuck or broken spring. (b) worn out or broken nylon cam plate or (c) possibly broken tab on motion control lever rod on the outside of the hoodstand. Also likely....bad or wrong drive belt...belt slipping.... pump pulley stripped....CRACKED FRAME WHERE IT BOLTS TO THE TRANS

Well tonight I got the pulley installed after much sanding and polishing of the transmission shaft, and grinding and polishing of the keyway. Tomorrow I need to stop by the auto parts store and purchase some blue Loctite for the Allen head set screw. Also reinstalled the tensioner pulley after letting it set in some LE oil for about a week. The bearing in it is nice and smooth now, a big difference from when I removed it. I'm looking forward to a test-drive. Also want to say Thank You to Steveasaurus for several nights of phone time and much needed good advice.

I would clean it up and keep a eye on it. most of the time they don't leak from that gasket they leak from one of the seals on the axle or input shaft. I would make sure thats were its coming from before going through the work of pulling the trans. Welcome to

A Wheel Horse trailer came up for sale in Iowa. It appears to be from when they made snow mobiles. I was just wondering if this was considered rare or desirable. It seems to have a tilting mechanism, and it looks like it would be a convenient way to transport a Wheel Horse.

A few considerations regarding the tire size: Tires from different manufacturers, although the same size, will have different dimensions. Kenda 23X10.50-12 Turfs are larger than Titan/Carlisle 23X10.50-12 turf tires.Two of my 5xi are equipped with each brand. Deestone seem to run narrower in their ag tires for example. Are you changing the wheel size for the 23X10.50-12 tires? That size tire should have an 8.5" wide rim compared to the 7" rim you have. They will go on the narrower rim but there will be some "ballonning" appearance-wise. If you are pushing snow, the 23X10.50-12 tires on 10.5" wide rims will be outside the path of a 42" blade when it is on an angle using the sector adjustment. A 48" blade doesn't have that problem. Actually for driving in snow, a narrower tire digs in rather than a wider tire that tends to float on snow. It is more an issue though for a car than our tractors..

Something about a nice shiny, new transmission that gives you goose bumps.

I started cleaning and etching most of the little parts and front axle and had time to paint yesterday. Here are some pics as it stands. I am well into it but have a ways to go though Im in no hurry. I will sandblast the hood,firewall,seat and probably rear wheels. Everything else gets the wire wheel which has always worked well for me. I know sandblasting is the way to go, but i have a 30 gallon compressor and it just wont keep up with the pot my Dad has ( an old TIP made in Canfield,Ohio). I dont know if I will take it somewhere, buy a smaller unit that will work with my compressor or what at this point.There is also a guy near me that dips parts in a caustic tank of acid or something. Anyways the wife wants something so talk to you all later and have a good day.

to I believe that your questions about the C-120 have already been answered. But I can tell you that they are a nice tractor. . I have a 1977 with a 42" deck.

If I recall, if the C195 has a tiller, then it likely has 3 point as well. That adds a lot of appeal to it. If it has a rear PTO, then jump on it immediately. As far as the fenders go, I think they are difficult to replace although at one point someone was reproducing them, I don't know if they still are. Make sure the tiller is not a c series tiller jury rigged to fit the c195.

Dude it's twice as bad on full moon evenings! Haha. Ok thanks guys, I was just wondering... and praying nothings wrong. Doesn't seem to make any other strange noises or grinding sounds so assume it's fine.

The 79361 should fit but it is a 2-stage 44" model brought out in 1993-2000. It followed the 06-44SC01 in 1991-1992. If you go for it look up the parts list before hand so you are familiar with all the parts that go with it. Garry

After mowing wet heavy grass, which has been many times this year, I remove the deck then scrape and hose it off underneath. Pressure washer is even better. I stand it up to do this and then leave it that way until it drips dry over night in the garage before re-attaching. It's a good time to sharpen blades also if necessary. And it's not necessary to clean the deck after mowing each time.

This video is probably well known at RS. But, just wondering if these guys are members here. If not, it's still cool. I love seeing garden tractors doing what they were designed to do, work. And any video that shows a gt plowing a field or garden, well that's just a bonus for me.

I hope to see you also Steve. I bet since its Scott's last show he expects me to take more pictures of him

It's an H60. Put a brand new carb on it and now it floods like a $&#*+€!! Only cost me 35 bucks for the carb and Ignition parts, so that's all I've got in it. Really need to find an old Tecumseh expert in my area!

We don't sell them; they are free to members. It might be wise to let the come to rest for a minute on fairly level ground between passes on the hill. Your engine lubrication depends on having oil splashed around by a dipper on the end of the connecting rod, if you remain on a steep grade for too long the oil may run away from the center of the oil pan and result in poor lubrication.

You guys are so helpful. That info on tires and rims is great. I just measured my backset on the new white purchased ones it is 2 1/2" and the ones that are on my toy they are the silver ones are measuring 2" so they are probably not WH rims either. The tires on the silver ones is 22 x 9.00 x 12 and i only have 1 1/16" on the right side between the tank support and the tire. So If i put 10.5 on which i would like to do I would be 5/16" away and with rubber chains it would be making sparks. So I need to buy WH rims and new all trails. what a nice forum this is

Unfortunately the brakes on a Uni-drive Trans-axle are on the transmission, not the wheels. Since the force of the breaks is transferred through the differential when you apply the brakes the wheel with the least traction will feel the most breaking action. The only safe way to manage hills and ramps is to never let it build up speed. Whatever you do, do not let it roll back and try to stop by letting out the clutch, you will do a back flip!

The IGTPA schedule should be coming out real soon. We normally have a pretty good turn out of super stocks. Maybe I'll run into you this year. Keep an eye out for this one, it's mine.