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PTO all hooked up. Rear lift assembly installed. Muffler and heat shields installed. Welch plug for camshaft replaced. Proper dash installed. New battery tray installed then installed battery. Cleat

We had about six inches over night in Franklin N.C. Got a little seat time in this morning. It probably will have melted away by tomorrow, but with a steep driveway like ours you can't count on that; could be a sheet of ice!

It snowed again last night. We got 5 1/2 inches. Here are some pics from today. Oh the fun you can have with your family and a Wheel Horse!

I ended up getting it for 450 dollars!

thanks steve, i'll ask him if he still has the blue prints and if i can throw them on here

Just ordered a blast cabinet from Harbor Freight.....Now I have to get a BIGGER air compressor. Used my wife's debit card!! It's for my birthday.......shhhh

so i shot a couple pictures of my horse there ya go

Hello,I picked this up with 19richie66.It is a future restoration. It has a stamped frame which I believe is a 56.

Getting a little closer, engine is now complete other than oil drain and air cleaner, still have to paint the air cleaner, and pick up some screws for the carb elbow. I'm going to run the oil drain off to the side of the frame, its probably not original, but don't want to make a big mess on the frame when changing the oil. Also got the rear lift, and steering together and working good. exaust was painted with rustoleum high temp paint, have had good luck with this on several tractors.

What a Pud! Just rub some dirt in it, that's what a U.S. guy would do!

Mike, I have attached a page from the 5xi transmission service manual. Following the first paragraph there is a Note concerning noise from the lift valve on non-power steering units. I have 522xi which has power steering, and the lift is not very noisy. It looks like you are in a cold climate, which may also cause the hydro to be noisy. I always run Mobil 1 10W-30 in the hydro. Do you know what is in your hydro and when was the last time the hydro filter was changed. Have you checked the oil level in the hydro? At 400 hours, you shouldn't really be having valve problems, or hydro for that matter. Also note that the last paragraph on the page makes reference to running at full throttle. Are you at WOT when you get the noise. I'm sure some of the other 520 and 518xi owners will chime in and make reference to how noisy their lift valves are. Rick Trans.pdf

Scotty,,,,,,dont you feel like a thief stealing that beauty? I wouldnt..........lol. best of luck. Glenn

I think you forgot tot mention you LOVE the shed

here's some pics of the green machine and a round hood and now some of the round hood, this one wouldn't start today so we pulled it with the horse till it started

Very nice RJ35... its a double edge sword on the resto vs leave it alone IMO... restored RJ35s are nice but forget using it... all it does is spit grease and oil everywhere... at least in original condition the paint is already worn so a little more grease or oil doesn't matter.

On the up side, you type really well with just one thumb!

Nice pics! Looks like a fun day for all. I used my C-101 to clear my drive yesterday (and my neighbors) in Chesterfield, VA. We had about 8"-9".

I used a 48" side discharge mower deck on my 520H all last winter and it didn't miss a beat. I do have a 60" deck but the ground I cut is a bit rough - grass as opposed to lawn, and the 48 is a bit easier on the tractor. I am currently cutting around five acres which takes roughly four hours and two tanks of fuel. The mower didn't miss a beat but I was expecting the belt to break towards the end as it had lots of chunks out of the rubber. I managed to wrap up some fence wire a couple of times, mowing areas I hadn't been before but no major issues. The RH deck spindle has developed about half an inch of vertical play, but no wobble. I realised that I would need to do some work before next season, which is suddenly nearly here. The grass here greens up in autumn and grows strongly over the winter period before dying off in late spring. It normally doesn't require mowing from November until May, unless we get summer rains. This is the deck I used last year; I had four of the 48" SDD's and dismantled three of them for rebuilding. I picked up another 520 last week and so now have five 48 decks, in addition to the 60 and a 42" RDD as well as a new 42" SDD. I want to refurbish one of each for my WH collection as well as setting up two for use. That way if I have problems during mowing season I can just swap decks and keep on going. As another home project I want to make up some raised garden beds for growing vegetables in the back yard. I came up with a design and made some corner brackets to bolt sleepers together. When the brackets were done I decided to galvanise them so they will outlast me. This was just after Christmas and I was thinking I needed to get on with the mower deck. When I built my trailer a few years ago I had the rims, tailgate hinges and catches, and a bar inside the tailgate for the loading ramps to hook into all galvanised. They are not showing any wear after more than ten years. So far with my tractor rebuilds (416H and 520H in progress) I have had everything powder coated. I want durability rather than originality with the working mowers and thought why not get the parts for the decks hot dipped at the same time as my other garden brackets. They turned out great! I hadn't done anything with the deck shell and wasn't sure of the best way to treat it. I want something durable but low maintenance, so was leaning towards sandblasting followed by a couple of coats of POR15. However, when I got the galvanised brackets back I started thinking, I wonder if the shell could also be galvanised? Initially I was hesitant for fear of warping the shell, but when I was scraping the worst of the crud out from underneath the steel was thicker than I expected. I decided to take it to the sandblaster and call in to the galvanisers on the way and ask them if they thought it would handle the tank okay. The chap I spoke to assured me it would be fine so I decided to give it a try. The reason I was hesitant is that I made up some sump covers at work many years ago and when they came back from being galvanised they were all bent up like bananas. At the time I was told it was due to stresses locked up in the steel from welding. Anyhow, I thought it would be worth trying. I also took in the rear height adjuster bar, and a pair of 12" rims. The back rims on the mowing tractor seem to cop a lot of the grunge. Picked it all up yesterday and 100% success! You beauty. This one is going to outlast me. Bearing in mind that these decks are all over twenty years old, with a bit of care they will last for many more years. and the rims;

Hi fellow Wheelers I just completed the fabrication of a Three Point Hitch for my 70"s GT14. Parts List include: 1. Used Wheel horse Rear Axle Bracket to which I added two Class One Hitch Pins with a steel bar welded across (bar was from an old shaft from a bad shock absorber) 2. Lower lift and Center lift bars and center lift arm (purchase from e-bay for $150) Note: One side was adjustable and the other solid, I changed the solid one so that is also adjust so that I could obviously adjust it and also make it fit better by removing a section and welding-in two threaded bolts 3. A twenty inch Class One tow bar from Tractor Supply for $139 Think you'll agree it came-out pretty good. Comments or suggestion appreciated As a side note might someone know what the rear pulley on the GT14 is for..... I assume perhaps the rototiller... but it looks so flimsy for that? Thanks

Good price, tractor, plow, & cab.

Personally, I would not worry about the limited slip. It is probably just that the spring is weak and they do not make them any more...and they are expensive if you can even find one. The worst that happens...your differential acts like the one everyone else has. As long as that spring is in tact, your differential is OK. I would imagine that you can find a new spring, but it was not really a good design...they only used this trans for a few years. You could fix your problem with chains on the rear tires, wheel weights, maybe governor adjustments...that kind of thing. What do you think??? In other words, I do not think it ever worked as well as they were thinking it might. Just my 2 cents.

I just saw this on ebay. I know nothing else about it. E-bay link deleted per forum rules Cleat

From $300 to$1000 maybe if super clean, and a nice job done on it, not a crappy rattle can paint job, so many things can influence value.

X-2 ^

Gerry. What a great panel set up Looks like room for 6 or 8 red ones under there Maybe more ! ! ! ! I got to get over there and see this whole gizmo For myself soon as weather permits.

New tires mounted. Rear wheels bolted on. Front wheels bearings greased and installed. Cleat

Man, I REALLY like that shed, even better knowing it's only a few years old, somebody did a really nice job designing and building that thing. Oh, and nice tractors too! Did I mention I LOVE that shed?

Just called the ATF to try and confirm the Milford CT carb cleaning methods! That's a good idea!

Looks nice but too rich for my blood.

I use the heads off of my still as carb cleaner, (spirit distillation). Works very well.

Rustoldjunk is mostly correct until a customer factory ordered one and see's a Wheelhorse options list for each model. Then things sort of weird out on some models...lol As stated my 8sp 76 B-100 had the 23/8.50 AG tractor tires and headlights options like the C-120. The stickers & 10hp vs 12hp was the only difference. Seems parts availability as one went down the assembly line changed some into higher/lower graded models too since most parts easly interchanged. Why some report having 1" axle vs 1 1/8" axles, larger wheels ect.. on the same models when they're compared. This goes for all models from what I read. Didnt stop or switch over that assembly line to wait for parts unless they just had too. Best thing to do is get the parts manual for the model you have. Use the numbers from the metal tag on the tractor not just its stickers. Parts manuals can be found cheap on Ebay if a member here dont have one?

I got my mounting bar made tonight I went the simple route and just used a 2" × 30" piece of 1/4 " steel and broke it on the break press at work I think it will hold up fine I also noticed that I probably could hang a couple of these weights from a rear hitch if I wanted to add sum weight to the back of the horse

Nice Find! Not sure if I would restore that one, would look very nice with a good clean up and the wheels repainted, but totally up to you. Looks like a very nice tractor!

What is strange is, back in my Okie days, work nor school ever stopped...business as usual. When in school in Colorado it snowed in May, everyone but us limb clean up crew loved it. Yeah Steve, that is a good one. Yes Mike, a "dustin", can you image the shock of a blizzard (over 2" for 3 days), I almost got in deep trouble for not returning off vacation (year the Red Hiver froze over. It may have been 3 inches for 4 days though. Anyway...local PANIC. We usually get more depth of leftover/broken/discarded Mardis Gras beads than this weird white stuff today.

I use a can of Berryman Chem Dip. Its specifically made for carburetors and even comes with a tray to put it all in and dunk it. It doesnt hurt anything and Ive never had a carb it couldnt clean to brand new. Why would you use something that wasn't meant to clean correctly for what you have? Thats like saying its good to use 60 grit sandpaper to clean bugs off your cars paint or windshield....sure it works but its not the proper method

I've had a solenoid click on me, but the contacts were burnt enough not to carry the load.

I use one of those min- tire changers from Harbor Freight.Plus I spray the tire beads with Pledge furniture polish or spray silicone.Still a tough job.Especially the 6 and 8 inch front tires.I'd rather change a big rear farm tractor tire instead of those little ones.

Looks like fun Bobby

Pressed new bearing races into front wheels then mounted wheels temporarily with the new bearings until the tires come in. Cleat

New sealed 9 pin connector installed. Engine then installed and connected. Waiting on the Welch plug for the cam to arrive and then exhaust and PTO can be assembled. New plugs and wires installed. Cleat

Jake, looking at your work both on the forum and in person, i got to disagree with that statement you made on the details. I think you are right up there with the details on your work as much as anyone on the forum who goes the extra mile on these tractors. Don't ever think that any of us who like to go all out can't see the work and effort you put into your builds. You should be very proud of your accomplishments, especially since you are still of a young age. I put that last line in the quote as it just reinforces what I'm trying to get across, normally you wouldn't look at work like this that is the result of somebody still in school. You also floor me with your knowledge on the round hood tractors. I just thought i needed to mention all of the above as it is truly not the norm for somebody your age to be at the level you are. I think it is very refreshing these days to see such a passion for a hobby from somebody your age.

That shed is a damn portal to another Wheel Horse universe...Its like a clown car for tractors!!!!

I have recently rebuilt the hydro unit in one of my 520H tractors, but haven't tried it out yet as the tractor has some way to go before it is finished. The seal kit is available p.n. 563310 and priced at $40.11 from Jack's where I get all my parts. Input and output shaft bearings are commonly available from bearing suppliers. I pulled mine down and cleaned everything then reassembled with new seals and replaced input shaft bearing. The output bearing was fine as it is constantly flooded with oil being the return path for oil from the hydro to trans. The input bearing is sealed so I replaced that as a precaution. Things to look for are wear and scoring in the pump and rotor balls and races and these can be fairly terminal or expensive to replace. Other than that it is vital to keep the balls in their correct pockets and obviously cleanliness is essential. My hydro was in good condition without apparent issues so I reassembled everything. I took a heap of photos but not a step by step record. The manual is easy to follow. The main reason I pulled mine apart was I was worried about corrosion of the cooling fins so I got the housing blasted.

Proof positive, Lars does bleed Wheelhorse.

Those little 4 horse Kohlers just seem so innocent. I had one upside down on me a few years ago no fun and they will run that way till someone grounds the points. Sure glad your OK. They are sure little monsters at times.

The A series were lawn tractors. The B-80 came with a shorter frame in 1974 and 1975, and had a 4 speed transmission with 1" axles. So I guess it was "lighter". But in 1976 and 1977 they had the longer frame and the 1-1/8" axles. The B-100 had the shorter frame in 1974 and 1975. In 1976 and 1977 both the B-80, B-100, C-120 and C-160 all were longer frames. The C-120 and C-160 were more powerful only because of the bigger engines, but the C-100 only had a 10HP. Now to make it more complicated, the B-60 with it's 7hp engine and non-electric start, also had the longer frame and 1-1/8" axles. So I guess the answer is not exactly true. Take a 1977 B-80 or B-100, replace the engine with a K301 or K341, add head lights and tail lights, replace the decals, and you have a C-120 or C-160.

I always thought the B was slightly smaller than lighter than the C.. My interpretation, might or might not be correct: A series was the small light-duty lawn tractor/mower. B series was the smallest "true garden tractor" in the lineup. C series was a slightly larger, heavier and more powerful tractor than the B. D series of course being the biggest and baddest.. true? not true? Scot