Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/13/2014 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    I was recently sent this ad from a fellow euro member Simon Cole (Landsurveyor) . It is from a small holder magazine announcing the introduction of the new RJ58/59 to the UK market. The article is also dated 1959 & shows some nice photographs
  2. 4 points
    just got this to replace my gt 1142. the gt has served me very very well for the last two years but i wanted to upgrade. so ive been looking for awhile and came across this one only about 20 minutes away! so i went ahead and got her. now it didnt come with any attachments but i am going to use the deck off the gt. also, i put my plow, chains and weights on it for this winter. i think it will do very well and hopefully earn its keep. now my future plans are to get new front tires for it, a 48 inch mower deck and maybe some paint and new seat. ive already fallen in love with this thing. just hope it can be as good if not better than the gt. anybody that has a mower deck for sale, please let me know. id like to find one soon so i can have it all ready for this spring. let me now what ya'll think!
  3. 3 points
    Here's a few goodies. An early 60's seat cover. Mirror. And a copper and sterling silver keychain Mrs Funengineer made for me. Sent from my tractor seat.
  4. 3 points
    Interestingly, my first thought was roll-over, or a busted frame. I had taken a quick look earlier in the week to see if the plate was cracked, and never even noticed the missing bolts. However, in my defense, the entire area was so packed with oil and grass clippings that it was a bit difficult to see. I noticed the shiny heads on the lower bolts, but didn't even think about the fact that they were undersized. So, I now surmise that the bolts vibrated lose. I've never seen that before. The upper bolts stayed in, but the lower bolts came completely out. In his haste to make a temporary repair, the previous owner attempted to replace the lowers, but now that the shifting of the plate caused the upper holes to become egg-shaped, the lower holes didn't line up and 1/4" was the only size that would fit into the holes. Since the lower bolts screw into a flange on the transmission case, a long bolt could be put through the plate and flange, then a nut put on the back. After some more time passed, the uppers worked completely out, leaving the situation that I discovered. I had to replace the drive belt due to a large chunk being missing, and the alignment looks fine. As soon as I get another chance to work on it, I am going to replace the cam plate and cam, then work my way forward to the motion control lever, tightening or replacing until I have smooth motion.
  5. 3 points
    If you're bored this winter it would be a good short term project to turn your shop into a shop, if you haven't already. If anyone here has turned something into equipment I'd love to see it. The big grinder no has a little brother. This one had quit and we wanted an 8" so we got one of those. Seems all that was wrong with the 6" one was the switch so we ordered another one for it and got it going again. We'll use the 8 for grinding and the 6 for cleaning. Of course they had to match... Here is big brother in case you didn't see it in the other thread -
  6. 3 points
    Thanks Jerry Funny you should bring this up, I was looking at the front of the hood the other day and thought it looked a bit upright and not as mean as I had in mind! Looking at this photo there is enough space between the front of the hood and the engine frame to "lean" the front of the hood inwards at the bottom... You have certainly given me something to think about Duels anyone? Maybe not... A bit too much Progress has been made although it's hard to tell from the next photo.. The axle has been put back together, diff and half shafts installed.. The axle can now be unbolted from the chassis, and the axle mounting place on the chassis has had some reinforcing.. I really need to take some photos! One thing I always pride myself on is doing everything "In house" or even "In workshop", partly because it's nice to be able to say "I made that", and partly because I'd rather spend time making something than part with money So with that in mind yesterday I finally came up with an accurate, safe and strong way I could convert a Wh rear wheel with it's 5 bolt 4 1/2" PCD.. To fit the Reliant's 4 bolt 4" PCD I found this nice length of thick plate hiding on the bottom of a shelf in Nigel's "Handy scrap metal" store.. (Thanks Nigel ) which is enough to make 2 wheel centers from. Let the lathe work start The bad news is this steel is rather hard so it's going to take quite a while to turn each wheel center!
  7. 2 points
    I just ran across this video on youtube and had never seen or heard of this cooking method before and wondered if any of you grillers and party barbeque cooks have ever tried this, Looks pretty interesting and well, different, but it worked. Just curious if anyone here has tried and what you think about it.
  8. 2 points
    For many, the time to winterize has long past. I let the time slip by and am only now getting around to doing it now. I would like to see how many different ways our member do this each year and what products if any they use.
  9. 2 points
    Getting the '90 520-8 up 'n runnin' was and is a joy. Heard some poor stuff 'bout the Onan but, all is fine now. Every time I took the Stallion out to work 'n play, my heart skipped, beat fast, and my anxiety grew to unbelievable levels. Hurt. Too bad I had to ride the Horse with my eyes open. Geeze was I T'd off! I fixed the poor Stallion with Mr. Pettit's wonderful expert assistance. Was like heavens opened and the sun shined on the old '90 520-8, a new life! Glen's medicine is better for me and like a seasoned vet the Horse can now breathe relief while crusin' the property. Thanks Mr. Pettit! I'm goin' to look around your Horse Pharmacy!
  10. 2 points
    I just received my new wheel horse sign from brad (876wheelhorse) in the mail today. I love it it looks good here but the woman don't think so Thanks brad roughly $70 shipped to my door .
  11. 2 points
    thats the only thing I hate about those lights some angles it looks really pink. I actually got with a member here on redsquare and he tore a sign apart and put led lights in it. looks alot better. but price went up alittle and well worth it.
  12. 2 points
    And a special beverage cooler. Sent from my tractor seat.
  13. 2 points
    An interesting concept. Different twist on the norm. Glenn
  14. 2 points
    I'd like to have it just the way it is.
  15. 2 points
    Posted Today, 02:42 PM If you've seen a tractor ad in the past few years, this Kubota ad does a great job of lampooning the typical tractor commercials you're used to seeing. Definitely thought it was pretty funny and well done: Taken from a post on GTTalk: Lots of other Tractor commercials to view there on YouTube
  16. 2 points
    Depends ......I keep up on maintenance on most things I own. Every small engine I own gets seafoam year round. It helps believe me. Ive found in most cases I can put machines away with an extra dose of seafoam in them and be fine come spring. Oil changes are done per hours on my clock so I don't make that a "spring thing". I keep everything lubed from the get go on anything I buy that hasn't been or anything new. A can of spray grease can be your friend. I also will remove in some cases bolt and nuts and neverseize them and reinstall. All new hardware I put on a machine gets that same treatment. Doing this stuff regularly throughout the year makes it easy as rolling it into the shop for the winter. Oil changes, plugs, etc I do based on engine run time. Some I only run a few times a year. Why put a new plug it in every year? So I go by manufacture hour time if its available.
  17. 2 points
    Job well done, your inspiring me to put my new decals on to. Glenn
  18. 2 points
    Geno before I forget, I used the Krylon paint plus primer you suggested for the satin black and it didn't react with the Ace Hardware red. Covered in 2 coats, good stuff . Epoxied the new pto disc in place and reinstalled everything. Put the decals on the hood and fender pan and that pretty well wraps it up for this winter. The rest of the decals will go on next year when I tear the upper dash out to repair a stress crack, reinforce the upper steering shaft bushing and take care of the rest of the detail work. Got to get back on the Suburban so this one is done for now.
  19. 2 points
    I did look at every manual in the files, but I was looking for a complete soft cab like mine. Would've never guessed it was that old or made for the GT 14. I'm going to put it back on the C 160 and do whatever it takes to firm up the frame so the doors work right. No need for it on the GT 14's since one's a gardener/mower, and the other one's got the big plow on it. No kids that'd enjoy using the snow thrower without a cab . . . and I don't have enough kid in me to use a snow thrower without a cab . . . unless the wind is 0 mph. Thanks for the help.
  20. 2 points
    WTG Bob ...Nice buck. Was he by himself ? I had a herd of 18 doe and fawns cross the road in front of me today. Not a buck in the bunch. After they crossed and piled up trying to get through this 5 wire fence, I remembered my camera. I just called Grandson Owen and told him to be ready at 6AM tomorrow for his last day to take a buck.
  21. 2 points
    Operators Manual and Parts List:
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    Personally, I would rather buy something un-restored unless I know the person that restored it. Not saying you would be a bad restorer, just that I as the buyer would not know. Not everyone fees this way though!
  24. 2 points
    looks like the inlet needle seat Brian
  25. 1 point
    I'm putting the cart before the horse on this one but I wanted to thank forum member COD (Steve) for loaning me a defective WH418a indicator pcb to develop a repair test fixture. Steve, I will post the full "story" behind the repair but I wanted to let you know how your contribution will make it possible to effectively and economically repair and upgrade indicator boards for WH 300 and 400 series tractors . Many more secrets have been given up as to how the indicator board functions and what the various failure modes are for the individual components on the board. I was able to make modifications to the circuitry to VASTLY increase the reliability of the board assembly. I'm sure the test jig will evolve as I investigate any wiring changes need to accommodate the 300 series tractors. Right now wires are everywhere!
  26. 1 point
    Is a brinly disc harrow worth restoring with intentions to sell after all painted up? Do people buy these all fixed up?
  27. 1 point
    SUCCESS! So I reshaped teeth on bull gear by grinding the little square notch that was causing transmission to get stuck when moving both axles simultaneously in neutral . Reassembled transmission with bearings in correct places. Tightened everything and tested it. Functions perfectly and now I can move both axles in neutral together in reverse without it hanging up. So prior to rebuild this wasn't a problem since bronze bearings were virtually gone and there was so much play between bull gear and mushroom gear that bull gear was actually scraping center housing. All that play would allow mushroom gear to climb square notch . Once new bearings and bronze bearings were installed everything was snug and aligned properly making that square notch a real obstacle. Also been able to secure a complete set of the later type bull gear and mushroom gear with more teeth. I am however use this one this way saving those parts for another day. Second one to rebuild is already on the bench.
  28. 1 point
    I use the SEAFOAM in my small engines all year long......damn ethanol!
  29. 1 point
    Imagine how warm your "behind" would be with nuttin but thin sheetmetal and an inch of foam seperating your butt and a K-341!! Mike............
  30. 1 point
    I don't think Jim is the sole perpetrator in his farce!
  31. 1 point
    Maybe it wasn't an intentional change to positive ground ..... maybe someone just hooked up the battery backwards!
  32. 1 point
    Yup. They work. When sunlight is available. Surprisingly effective if you are not accustomed to it.
  33. 1 point
    Are you painting the cursive raised portion on the front white ???
  34. 1 point
    Vincez, This might help , sit in seat as if redi to start, make sure pto is in off (upward) position depress clutch this is a 2 step process now hold the starter key on with your left hand - and at the same time grab the pto lever and try to rotate it in a circle to find out if it will make contact. Push it in hard and and try make a contact with the switches in a slow circular motion. Or push it in hard as you try to start try different scenarios, you'll get it !! Vincez you have said prior "on two separate occasions over the course of this email thread I did get the tractor to start, then, once I turned it off - - nothing" The drawing isn't the best Center hole is factory.. upper and lower examples is what happens to the center after years of use. The holes might not be round but more oval shape not allowing you to make proper contact. They get wallowed out . Try to move the pto in a circular motion or up and down just to see if you make contact with your new switches but hold your key on with the other hand. You'll here it click to start if this is your problem. If not vincez, then as others have said you will have to check wiring. Good luck Rick
  35. 1 point
    Well look what walked my way today......
  36. 1 point
    Even I have to cut the Big 10 some slack AJ. They did get 10 teams in bowl games. If nothing else, they learned how to count and the conference will be named properly for the rest of the year.
  37. 1 point
    Sweet tank,,,,,,,sweet. Good medicine right? ALL of my ponies have Glens handiwork on them. Top notch. Glenn
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    got primer on the bonnet of the ranger, that means that i need to start stripping some more of the ranger to prime and paint james
  40. 1 point
    Those discs (and small garden plows) are always very popular items for sale at swap meets !
  41. 1 point
    What a fantastic calendar this year. Martin along with Vinylguy deserve a round of applause! This calendar is a milestone, Even the Dino got in! Prices for the calendar have increased slightly. The good news is I can ship 3 calendars in an envelope to save on shipping! Here are the prices. These all include Priority Mail Shipping. These are all U.S.Dollars In the lower 48 states 1) $ 24.00 2) $ 43.00 3) $ 62.00 4) $ 86.00 5) $ 105.00 Canada 1) $ 37.00 2) $ 56.00 3) $ 75.00 4) $ 99.00 5) $ 118.00 Europe 1) $ 45.00 2) $ 64.00 3) $ 83.00 4) $ 124.00 5) $ 143.00 Payment can be by Paypal or personal check. IF YOU WANT TO ORDER A CALENDAR PM ME!!!!! DO NOT ORDER IT ON THIS THREAD!! Send me a pm with how many and which calendar you want. Include your mailing address and how you will pay. I will respond with a pm with either my paypal info or my address.If you do not hear from me within a couple of days after you send the pm,pm me again. I don't want to forget anybody. All calendars must be paid for before printing. I do not want a bunch of calendars left over. THE LAST DAY TO ORDER CALENDARS WILL BE MIDNIGHT DEC 13TH!!!! I need to get these done to get them out before Christmas!! Thank-You Squonk (Mike)
  42. 1 point
    Well as usual Ian it looks great so far. can't wait to see more. You have some amazing skills.
  43. 1 point
    I didnt get to see it. I do hope you repost it! Big fan of landscape photography of all varieties. I dont have a horse ornament yet, but I think I should get me one! Geno: need to test out any prototypes!
  44. 1 point
    I have yearned for a 420 for a long time, this is the tractor I keep along with a few others on the NFS list..In a roundabout way all of my recent Block Buster deals led up to this one... Who knew?
  45. 1 point
    Looks pretty dang nice to me. I would leave that one a survivor.
  46. 1 point
    Benefits? There's supposed to be benefits? Wottavok??
  47. 1 point
    Only Clarkson and anyone who has rolled a Reliant says they are bad cars I like your thinking... Go for it Right guy's a bit of an update for you.. Work has been happening on Why Not, just not quite as fast as I'd like.. These two bits of blue box have been welded to the back of the body and screwed to the bench.. And a couple more lengths at the front.. These hold the bodywork in the right place so I can work out how the new chassis rails will run.. The time had come to get cracking on with building the rest of "Why Not's" chassis, but before I could do that I needed to make sure the rear axle was in the right place and would stay there.. So I dug out some old angle iron to make a pair of bolt on axle stands.. But how to find the center of the axle!! Not a problem... I bolted a thin steel plate over the hole and gently tapped around the edges of the bearing hole which kinda gave me an outline, but a rough one.. Once the plate was removed it had a nice smooth sharp bearing hole mark... Just right for marking out the middle The center mark was given a light nudge with a punch so it could be seen on the outside and then bolted back to the axle like so A view from the rear.. The axle is 100% in the right place now and is firmly fixed down to the bench.. And the prop shaft mocked up..
  48. 1 point
    Evening chaps, after a busy few months sorting out the 6x6, the shows and car problems work on "Why Not" has started again After a much needed clean-up in the shack the rest of the Reliant axle was stripped down.. All the brake gubbins was removed from the axles.. The steel bar behind the axle is what I will be making the sleeves out of. One side of the axle housing cleaned up and unneeded brackets removed... I may or may not reuse the outer axle mounts, so they will stay on for now until I decide. Then after a chat with Nigel about how "Why Not" should look when it's finished, I found myself armed with a craft knife, a can of silver polish, and an old sock!! And polished up a bit of one of the rocker covers to see how it looked! I fear a "full on" custom paint job may be in order These are the original engine mounts cut from the bike frame, the trouble is that's what they look like... But the thick walled tube bit will come in handy for making my own mounts.. So I cut them out and cleaned them up.. Now for a bit of thinking... Known as wheels.. Even though Doug very kindly sent me down a pair of 12" wheels that bolt straight to the Reliant axle (Thanks again Doug) I just can't shake the picture in my head of "Why Not" running WH wheels at the back.. Which brings me back to the problem of the Reliant axle being a 4 bolt 4" pcd, like this Kitten wheel.. And of course a Wh wheel has a 5 bolt 4 1/2" pcd.. With the measuring caliper divider thingys set at 4" apart you can see the problems with how close the new holes would be to the old, and also the new holes would end up too close to the er.. Big hole in the middle of the wheel.. Another problem is the Wh wheels are not what you call flat in the middle and any 4 bolt pcd pattern would clash with the ups and downs of the wheel.. Making a new wheel center with the right pcd would be quite easy on my lathe... The problem would be cutting the center out of the WH wheel accurately as it's way too big for my lathe.. Until I was sitting with a smoke and a coffee pondering the problem and I happened to glance at the rear wheels on my WH 312... It will take a bit of working out but I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to make a 12hp Kohler powered lathe So the new plan is to cut the center out the Wh wheels and replace them with my own made centers
  49. 1 point
    Hello in Texas, Google "Search Tempest" and go to the search tempest site. Next put in where you live, then enter what you are looking for. (Put in "Wheelhorse 212-5" or just "Wheelhorse 212". Then tell Search Tempest what mile radius to search from your home. It will search Craigslist and Ebay for this tractor as that is for sure where you want to start. (A parts tractor preferably with a blown motor and not a blown transmission). The next thing you can do is a search for a Peerless Transmission using the model number of the transmission above. (930-020). Most people who would post a transmission like that would just say "it came out of a Wheelhorse 212". You can also put a "wanted" add on this site and see if anyone has a parts tractor or an old Peerless laying around. Good Luck!
  50. 1 point
    And then Mark who has been kind enough and also has the maths brain power that I'm lacking came back with a few calculations for me! It's the final number that hit home!! That sort of top speed from a 48hp V twin would just be embarrassing, and could be got from a 10hp Kohler with a lot less work!! Looking at the final drive on the end of that shaft did get me thinking though.. If the final drive was bit further back to line up with the Wh trans axles then maybe it could be used to drive a cart axle!! Yes it's the same photo again So, off to the shed I trundled and grabbed the Honda's rear wheel to unbolt this bit.. It shouldn't be too hard to get a sprocket to fit that And that bit happens to slide onto the final drive Sooo, the new plan is to use the Honda's swing arm and final drive then take power back from there via chain and sprocket to a rather strong kart axle.. I can even use the Honda's rear brake which is more than up to the job and very easy to fit The new plan kinda moves this build up a few levels as it could be very easily geared to reach the bikes level of top speed or even more should the suicidal urge take me!! I'm happy to gear it for a bit less top speed but certainly more than 14.20422 MPH Oh, and while the front axle was off I lowered the front end quite a bit to see how it looked
This leaderboard is set to New York/GMT-04:00


  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...