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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/01/2014 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Not sure if this is the proper spot to put this. A couple people have been asking about the trailer I use to haul my Wheel Horse. It is a custom-built drop deck trailer. All I have to do is pull up in release the safety and swing the spring up and it drops the deck to the ground. No need for ramps. Here's some photos. Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
  2. 7 points
    I've had my shed a couple years now. I went out to Sheds Unlimited in Amish country. It took about 6 weeks to get it. It's pretty cool the way one guy unloads and actually drives the shed to it's location. My neighbor is a framer and said he couldn't build the shed for what I paid. I had to dig a 40' trench to run the wire from my house to the shed. I put in 2 lighting fixtures, 7 receptacles and an outside security light with motion detector. I'm now considering a 14,000 BTU window air conditioner which will fit. My floor joists are on 8" centers with pressure treated joists and the flooring is pressure treated plywood. This shed company will do whatever you want.
  3. 7 points
    Well another season of tilling is in the books. 27 gardens and two yards for houses being flipped. After adding up the sizes, I come up with 386,000 square feet just in the gardens alone. The total should put me right around 10 total acres. For that, I got $1700, a new sign and a dinner for 6 at the local Italian Restaurant. I narrowly avoided a bad incident when the oil drain pipe broke. I ended up not having any issues or added costs this year. Time to clean up the tractor, readjust a few things and put her away for next year. I'm considering painting this one to match the Mustang. Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
  4. 6 points
    The other day, I heard my wife declaring my two rollers a public eye sore. I came across these "dead" solar Christmas lights we still had laying around, decided to give 'em on last try today. Tacked them up in place on the rollers this morning, and look what I just discovered out the back window. I'm hoping they will bump up the Feng Shui, or something...and they get to stay put a little bit longer.
  5. 5 points
    Hello folks, the 518 that i was going to convert into an 8speed didn't ever work out. What happened instead was i found a 520 hc close to home with rusted paint, grenaded engine and bad frame (from engine plate not tight). I swapped the hc running gear, hydraulics and all the other bits n peices onto a 414 8 frame then finished it off with the onan and 518 sheet metal I like it!
  6. 5 points
    My 2 520's and Ford LGT165 out enjoying the nice weather. Cleat
  7. 4 points
    My wife purchased this some time ago and we just now got the opportunity to work on it. She really wants a "butt buggy", but this will have to be her ride until we find one. Here is a photo of what it looked like when we bought it: Here is the "parts" after painting: And completely assembled:
  8. 3 points
    Howdy from upstate NY. New to red square. New Wheel Horse horder or collector whichever way you want to look at it. I own a D180. Looking for attachments. A 656 in the middle of a restore. and just picked up a RJ58 and a Suburban year and model unknown in total pieces. need a rear end for the suburban and a motor for the RJ. Looking forward to lurking around Red Square!
  9. 3 points
    Paint the Mustang Wheel Horse red!
  10. 3 points
    Never too early to get ready for winter!
  11. 3 points
    An overdue update... Thought I'd get in the action on fender repairs, by the time I welded up the holes in a c series fender, I thought it easier to weld up the very rusty raider fender. Here it is with most rust cut out and patched And with the last patch in place Time for a short video showing the final transmission arrangement and steering. http://youtu.be/S6zzlN8f1-0 And some pics with the body mounted and engine It was going to Newby, but now the GT is going there's no room... :(
  12. 2 points
    Howdy all, I just picked up my first Horse, a 314-8. I was very fortunate to find it as not many have made their way to Arizona. I picked it up from the adult son of the original owner, and It's in pretty nice shape. The addiction has begun...
  13. 2 points
    I have to wonder how many guys shift their body position to the uphill side to counterbalance the weight of the tractor to avoid rolling. Of course that is much more effective the fatter you are! LOL
  14. 2 points
    I purchased 25 3 year, Heirloom crowns and they arrived last Thursday. The instructions said to dig down 18" (cripes) So Friday after dinner I started to dig and dig and dig and dig.....ect. First a 8' by 14' down to 7" ~ 8" or so. Then Saturday I dug two 14' by 2' trenches about 9" deep; so the bottom was about 17" deep. I filled the trenches with a 50/50 mix of good dirt, LeafGro and aged goat poop. I then placed the crowns on top of small plies and covered them with 3"~4" of the 50/50 mix. Then I filled in the remaining dirt. My daughter helped some but I hand dug most of it. I HOPE THAT THIS IS THE BEST ASPARAGUS I EVER ATE!!!!!! Francis
  15. 2 points
    I was very blessed on Saturday was pushing some brush with my 1067 it climbed the pile and went end over end was able to get clear before it landed all but my foot caught under the seat, thank God my son lives close and was able to pull it off enough to get me clear,,only ended up with some burns and sore,scared me alot. The tractor lost alot of oil,bent the stearing wheel up and bent the lift handle,I was able to clean it up added some oil and she fired right up...please keep in mind safety at all times when using these machines.
  16. 2 points
    more small parts on this morning. this is the best part of the build in my opinion. these newer tractors don't have the 'discoveries' to be found when taking them apart that the older 50s and 60s tractors do for me (other than butchering and back yard engineering.....), so the fun with the newer ones for me is putting all the finishing touches on them. i built this one as maybe Toro would have done if i was running the factory, used almost all oem parts, but assembly and colors, plating etc just a little different in some areas. i still wanted all the small stuff to be 'right', stuff like clips, etc and proper grips on the levers etc. since most of this stuff was rusty or the grips damaged or torn, i had to get new. heres some more small stuff going on the tractor. getting close now to firing that engine up for the first time since its new set of clothes...... new gas cap part number 55-3570 lift height adjustment knob and cap... lift lever handle grip and plunger cap.... tachmatic grip and rod cap..... gas shut off valve and tank grommet... j clip for throttle cable at hoodstand.... clips used for the rest of wiring harness and to hold the gas line at the seat pan support are all clip 8830. i used quite a few of these for holding wiring in other locations as well as the normal factory locations.....
  17. 2 points
    this is for 1991 300,400 series, I'm fairly sure the trans is the same though...... the 1991 ipl has the sizes of most of the fasteners..... 933184 spirol pin 3/16 x 3/4
  18. 2 points
    Last yr there was a guy selling new plates on Ebay. They looked pretty good, but since I have 2 full sets of 11 and some extras I use in the garden, I didn't need to get any right then. If you can find C,D,E and F12 that's ones you mostly need to plant a garden with. The rest are tiny or giant holes, and I found that one of my Planet jr's worked better. Also for those who didn't know, Planet jr seeders were used on some WH and other models of GT's. Most of the time its a 300A, sometimes its a 300, and once in a while its was a model 4 or 25. Like the Danville seeder, once again its the hitching that makes it work on with a certain tractor, the seeder units are always the same.
  19. 2 points
    put the 15 volt RR in a winter tractor higher battery voltage in cold weather is an advantage to keeping the battery in a fully charged state.
  20. 2 points
    I think you need part 51 in the IPL. Here is the best pic that I could find. http://www.geocities.ws/rbwheelhorsestables/Attachments/row_planter_77-01PT01.jpg
  21. 2 points
    I don't think you will have any problem painting the fins. I use the same paint to paint the engine as I use to paint the tractor. The fins get painted as many coats as the engine. The biggest problem with cooling is not going to be paint, but dirt and debris that gets trapped in the fins due to lack of proper maintenance.
  22. 1 point
    Hello to all, after the first time out I figured I'm gonna need a place to hide. I am curious as to what people are using for canopys, I already have a 10 x 20 but thats a little large using only at shows where I'm gonna hang out for a few days and have extra help to setup. Thinking about a 12'x12' they have at Kmart. Was wondering what you guys are using. Suggestions are a Good thing!
  23. 1 point
    I bought out a complete collection a few weeks ago, and this project was in the deal, lots of little details in this unit, wiring is very nicely done, engine was set back a few inches, and mounted on a plate with rubber mounts, custom batt tray was made and a very neat hold down built, super simple, but very effective, muffler support doubles as a motor plate stud, some very nicely built custom drop spindles, mounted on a forward swept 520 axle and custom tie rods, I think 90% of the bolts on this tractor are stainless, custom touches all over it, it has a 11hp briggs in it, that runs great, a sunstrand trans, with hyd lift, This machine is very quick, not sure why? pretty fun to drive, I thought about keeping it, but I have too many of my own unfinished projects, so it will be going up for sale, I posted it here but had no interest at all, so I guess ebay it will go, I just wanted to share this nice machine, I'm hoping a person gets it that will appreciate all the work that has been put in to it, I only hit the high lights, and to see the workmanship in person is as good as it gets, pride in your work right here, just needs a new owner to finish it, mostly paint work, and I take zero credit for any of it. Enjoy the pics.
  24. 1 point
    I brought home my first R.J. Not sure what year yet, but I believe 68 or 69. Someone cut a hole in the hood for an exhaust pipe and it is missing the sediment bowl. Mostly complete though. The exhaust shield was taken off for the ride home, bit its there. I am not sure the pulley / belt guard is correct though. Give me your thoughts fella's
  25. 1 point
    Great day was had by young and old alike today at the Yorkanna Gun Clubs annual 12U kids fishing derby.
  26. 1 point
    http://www.shedsunlimited.net/ It's a big website. It's got many types of sheds and options. All the prices are listed which makes it nice. My wife and I drove out there and ordered it. It was an Amish farm with Amish workers. There were probably 100 sheds or more in stock to sell outright. Check out their mule on their website. It's what gets the shed from the truck to your location.
  27. 1 point
    Picked up a "like new" set of VEE BAR chains for $2 at the local action yesterday. A perfect fit on the 520 snow blower. Glad I raised the fenders and foot rests to get the xtra clearance.
  28. 1 point
    You may have to cut a hole in the rubber, I have never seen one with out 2 holes, but some have just been a small hole, I like to use a roll pin punch made to go in a airhammer, 99% of them pop right out with it.
  29. 1 point
    Here are pics of the steering wheel pin, the opposite side, and the cracked dash.
  30. 1 point
    You might as well start building a bigger shop to house your herd of . You are hooked!
  31. 1 point
    It runs again! Click on the picture for a video of it stationary. It turns out that the clutch was put together wrong when I got it, and the engine would barely run above an idle. It will now pull me down the road! Sorry about the fast transition using my left hand! The hood is finished but I need to "massage it" as the longer hood pin for extra clearance was never installed along with the optional reverser.
  32. 1 point
    I do not recommend turning the bearing plate 90 degrees because if I am not mistaken there is an oil drain back valley located at the bottom of the bearing plate. This allows the oil (that gets between the front side of the bearing and the back side of the bearing plate) to drain back into the oil pan.
  33. 1 point
    Was that the day they named you Squonk?
  34. 1 point
    Here are some pics of my seeder's plates ! You can see the size variation on the "cups" that grab the seed as the plate turns in the seeder!
  35. 1 point
    Limited to just 200 books. See pre-order information in the vendor section.
  36. 1 point
    Very nice looking GT's! You really like the comfortable seats with the arm rests.
  37. 1 point
    that looks like a workable hitch or at least a good repo of one. Most of the units I've seen over the yrs used one that bolts to the sides of the framework. There are a lot of different hitches, as everyone who sold them had some slightly different or better way to mount it on the tractors.
  38. 1 point
    I guess I'm one of the anal ones that likes making lines in my lawn. My mower of choice is my 520H with 48 inch deck. No modifications to the deck or tractor. Allot of making lines is the mowing pattern and having the deck set up properly. One big secret is going back over every other line. Takes some time but that's fine with me. More seat time! In the near future I hope to make a roller that mounts to the rear plow hitch with an old cut up short plow frame, with a line of wheel horse plastic deck wheels across the back. I think it will work very well. Not that it's needed but I want to see how distinguished I can make the lines. Maybe I can cut out the step of going over every other line. We will see... So I'm interested to see who else likes making lines and pictures of your cut, groomed lawn. Don't laugh at my landscaping. I'm getting there... this house was a real project since buying last year. Again no tricks, just a 48 inch deck set at the second highest setting . Sent from my LG-LS720 using Tapatalk
  39. 1 point
    No nothing is missing from my signature Craig. Sometimes good things happen to those who wait. I'm glad I didn't get rid of one of my lil guys. Moving them around in the barn actually gave me a bit of a bug to get the 58 or 59 (I can't tell the difference other than 1 of them has a backrest) restored with my son. I really need to figure out how to get that little single lunger running again, but I don't know much about small engines and really would love to have someone teach me. He loves his Suburban 400 and he's excited that I'm going to build a cultivator set for him to pull behind it and keep the weeds down in between the garden rows.
  40. 1 point
    The picture with Bob Hope. At Notre Dame no less!!
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    I also just picked up a Front loader and a Back hoe. Both are together on a D 180. Everything works. My Son is still on the highway with it. Tomorrow we will unload and give it a test. I will try to post some pics as well.
  43. 1 point
    Do you have any duplicate plates you would part with? I only have the one plate that came with mine. Joel
  44. 1 point
    I do understand Steve but I certainly don't mind being reminded. I'm going to pull the right cover off again. It will make it easier to get the stop balls and spring in plus I just want to recheck a couple things that are bugging me. Unfortunately, I'm sure I'll ruin the gasket (Permatex) so I'll pick up a 12"x18" sheet of gasket material and that's perfect for 3 gaskets. Once I'm ready to put it together again I'll dry fit it with the gaskets first. I'm thinking there is a problem with pinching with the cluster shaft and possibly the differential. I'll check the play on the input shaft again. I'm thinking use both the later model rails and see how it works. Sound like a plan? Actually Steve, in spite of some frustration I am having fun. Most of the frustration in self imposed. I'm amazed I still have 10 toes considering how often I shoot myself in the foot. I've reread threads here and watched your videos many times. It's been and will continue to be a great learning process and a lot of fun. By the way Steve, are you set as 'invisible' on Skype? When we were chatting a while back you showed as offline then even though I knew better. I've been on a few afternoons and never see you as online.
  45. 1 point
    I have a two wheel push version of this seeder. It is a David Bradley but was made by a company in Danville, Illinois (may have been named Colvin??)that is still in business but no longer makes seeders. The 1961 (or 1962) Sears Catalog has two versions listed. The first page of the Sears catalog has the two wheel chain driven version. The planter opened up the furrow or planting row, dropped the seed (using a plate -there were 11 sizes for various types of seed, and then the row was closed and covered with soil as you pushed (or in the case of the tractor version pulled) the seeder. Here are the two pages of the Sears catalog with the prices and more details. Make sure to take a look at the prices of a lot of other neat things in 1961! I have 12 seeder plates but found out this am looking at them that there are two -D-12 versions. I am placing new hardwood handles on my David Bradley seeder. This is my seeder project:
  46. 1 point
    Here is a short cut to our manuals site and the only KwikWay Loader listed. Not sure if this is for a C or D series but it should answer some of your questions. Nice Find! PS..........I found my loader on a 312-8 that also had a blown rear end. If your really going to use these loaders, you have to make sure you maintain your host tractor and watch how much weight and jerking you do on them. Mine is on a 520 and it was built for a loader.
  47. 1 point
    According to the manual for Kwik-way #45-08211 6 1/2 quarts of "good grade hydraulic oil or ATF (Dextron) automatic transmission fluid" remove the check screw and fill with 4 quaarts Start and run at 1/2 throttle, operating loader lift and bucket cylinders 5-6 times to purge system of air Lower bucket to ground under power. DO NOT PUSH HANDLE ALL THE WAY FORWARD TO "FLOAT" POSITION Retract bucket cylinders Add remaining 2 1/2 quarts, or fill until fluid runs out of check screw hole If you can't find the manual, contact me, and I can get one to you. P.S. Let us know what you think of the screw-on pallet forks. I'm curious to hear what people think of the quality.
  48. 1 point
    Day 1! I shop vac'd and power washed since this photo - scary beasts were living in her. She still needs a name. Next: clean the carb real good, fresh new battery, new filter, tube for the front tire ... ISO headlight cover, seat (original would be nice ) brake light and steering wheel decal / centre piece Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  49. 1 point
    Martha Washington is the better variety and go for the three year crowns because it will still take longer than three years for a good crop! asparagus: an all-male cast purple asparagus IT SHOULD COME AS NO SURPRISE, since it’s true so many other places still: In the asparagus rows, males are in charge. ‘Martha Washington’ and ‘Mary Washington’ were names you used to see most often in catalogs, but no more. Their weakness: The Washington strains include both male and female plants, and the males are far more productive if what you want is lots of spears. Who doesn’t? In the mid-1980s, Rutgers University, a state institution in New Jersey, began a program to improve asparagus performance that focused on the extra productivity of the male plants. The resulting strains, most of which have the word Jersey in their names, are what you want to grow if you’re going to plant asparagus. They waste no time or energy on seed production and go right to the task of making spears. They can be harvested more often (about every two to three days in a productive, established bed) and yield about 20 to 30 percent higher than the old varieties. But asparagus tests even the most committed gardener, asking for a major feat of excavation followed by a lot of patience. Whatever kind you’re planting, you have to dig a trench about 18 inches wide and 6-8 inches deep (some people go a foot deep). Since asparagus is best planted in spring, when dormant roots are sold by mail, prepare the bed the previous fall or in earliest spring. Order roots, or crowns, by mail for the freshest possible plants; they will be either one or two years old when you get them. Growers like Jersey Asparagus Farms will tell you which all-male variety is right for your region. To prepare the bed, first test the soil pH by following the package instructions on a home test kit, or by taking a sample, according to their directions, to a local soil lab. The lab report will indicate how to amend the soil, and with what material; the typical routes are sulfur to acidify and lime to neutralize, but neither is a quick fix—or the whole answer. Adding large amounts of organic matter, preferably compost, to the soil should always be the first step; an organic soil is easier to pH-balance. For asparagus, you are aiming for a pH within the neutral range, or about 6.5 to 7.0. As you dig the trench, put the soil you excavate on a tarp or in wheelbarrows beside the site. Then layer the middle of the trench floor with a few inches of well-rotted manure and soil, sprinkle with rock phosphate and an all-natural organic fertilizer according to label directions, tamp the bottom, then fan the dormant roots out over the mound in the trench so they look like so many giant spiders with legs dangling. The illustration from Cornell University, above, shows the “W furrow†that is created once soil or soil and rotted manure is shoveled or hoed into the middle of the trench to support the roots, after the roots have their first soil heaped on top, as below: Space the crowns about 18 inches apart within the row, and leave a few feet between parallel rows. When they are in place, backfill an inch or two of soil onto the plants and firm, then water. Once the crowns send up green shoots, shovel in another thin layer of soil (don’t cover the tips completely), and repeat this step through the summer until the asparagus trench is filled back in. Keep the area weeded and watered. Now comes the patient part. You cannot cut any spears until the third spring in the ground – a full two years after planting. (Sometimes cutting for just two weeks in the second year is suggested; follow the directions your grower encloses with your crowns.) Until then, simply let the plants go through their cycle of sprouting spears that turn ferny in summer. Don’t cut off any foliage until cleanup of the bed in late winter or early spring. The payoff is obvious, if you love asparagus. And, best of all, if kept weed-free and otherwise well-tended, a planting can last for up to 20 years. Did I mention that you can also grow the super-sweet and exceptionally pretty purple-spear varieties at home (here’s one source)? Maybe food for another post…
  50. 1 point
    I recently purchased a D-160 - among several problems was the Ross steering had the bottom of the housing broken out (a common occurrence apparently) Having just spotted a unit for a D-180 on ebay offered by Joes made me more comfortable about buying the 160 - which I did, and also ordered up the D-180 unit from Joe assuming the 180 would be the same as the 160 (as seemingly every thing but the motor is the same). I knew I would want to take it down and do an inspection and do the bearing kit replacement. The unit came in and was in decent condition with the 2 bearings being only so-so, so ordered up the $15 kit. Got every thing cleaned and reassembled leaving the steering column tube off til the last waiting on a flanged bearing to replace the plastic bushing. Soooo - luckily I did a dry set-up, slipping the tube in the housing and setting the steering wheel on to "get a feel" for my rebuild -- whoa! theres a heck of a gap between the wheel and the tube!! Grabbed up the old 160 tube and its a full 1" longer than the 180 from Joes in length! I had an old corroded/rusty Ross off my 180 that had blown out the bottom out back so went and got it - its the same length of the 160 - what the *#&*^! So I have a 160 and 180 Ross columns that are the same, with the 180 from Joes being 1" shorter - anybody doing research on these D columns should check on the lengths of the shafts/tubes. Anybody else run into this?? Heres a pic of the shafts/tubes and the bearings. The ball bearing are held in a plastic "cage" and the plastic was badly distorted and would no way hold the balls, the kit has the new plastic cages and new balls and 2 new cups. Also, another tidbit for someone wanting to take their column out --- its quite a booger bear to get the thing removed from the tractor!
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