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The reasons why I decided to fix this Carb up are many really, deciding to put the progress report on here is that it may help others to understand why their Tired worn Carb is misbehaving or may require bits that aren't available anymore....so there may be hope yet if I can help and make a few bits. I see Used Carbs for sale and sell for over £50.00 (in UK) !. The buyer probably gets a Carb that is just as bad or worn as their old one and requires a full clean and gaskets anyway, so they still end up paying £80 incl postage etc for it. I know not everyone is able to, or has the equipment etc. to make obsolete parts, or indeed wonder if it is really worth it?....... Maybe just go out and buy a new/used Carb that will fit and move on..... For me, I have to take it apart and see if I can repair it, just because I am able to. I don't think a picture of a dirty, damaged and worn out Carb that is used mainly on 10 & 12hp Kohlers is necessary on here is it?, there's loads out there to see . I also don't need to go into the workings of it, as all that is available elsewhere e.g. Mr Miller's Tractorpulling site, although there are a few minor points I can't agree with. So, here we go, and we start with a need to identify it's condition after a good clean, an inspection and then take some fairly critical measurements of some dimensions. This Carb was left outside for several years and had filled with water. It was attached to my '81'Engine that was fully rebuilt for my '74' C-120 Project. Lots of wear and remaining evidence of rust damage to the Throttle Shaft/Plate and the Bore itself- Not easy to see, but there are 'Tide Marks' in the bore where the water level line is eroded into the Bore wall- Plan is not to re-bore this yet if it's not necessary. So I need to make a new Throttle Plate and Shaft. With the Pivot/Stop bracket removed from the old Shaft by careful filing, the bracket damage had to be straightened out. The condition of the Ball Pivot is ok (0.003" under 1/4" dia ). The old worn Banana Shaped Shaft is junk Took the measurements to reproduce the angle of the Throttle plate when in the fully closed position. A bit of a challenge and not totally accurate, but you have to start somewhere- Armed with these Dims, I produced a mandrel that will fit in the Lathe Chuck and hold a steel plate at the correct angle while it was machined down to the Bore diameter. The mandrel is a 4.1/2 inch stub of 3/4" dia Silver Steel (Drill Rod) with a Brass Head pressed/bonded on. It was then turned down to exactly 1.0000" so I can use that dia as a reference point . It was then bolted down on a Vertical Slide to machine the angled face. here it is with the face part machined- The finished Mandrel- ....and the new plate machined and just needs removing and de burring- The first attempt showed the plate was just 0.003" under Bore size- Not bad considering I had to measure the bore using an old pair of Inside Callipers and then use a Vernier to measure the Calliper setting. The bore is also tapered !!. So I may run it in the Lathe and shave off a few thou to parallel and turn up another Plate to fit. Throttle Shaft was made up from 1/4" Silver Steel (Drill Rod) as it is ground exactly to 0.2500" dia. A very nice fit in the lower Carb Shaft Bush. The original Shaft is mild steel and 0.002" under size on unworn areas, so a bit of slack there to start with when new. Used the new to me Mill/Drill for this and I like to keep a pictorial record of work holding 'Set Ups'- And the partly finished shaft against the old one. note the lower Bushing end is longer, this is because I machined less length out of the shaft for the Plate. The original had more removed than needed and reduced the bearing face area (could be a standard Shaft for several size Carbs). The 'first attempt' Plate and the old one, together with a super clean 'Fuel Tight' Float- This is as far as I have got by tonight. Still have a few adjustments to make on the 'Masheeeens' and permanently fit the LED Lights to them. Next session will be sorting out Bushings, fixing Shaft length, finishing and Plate install....maybe next week. Regards.

Found this on CL last night, it was a couple hours old and thought for sure it was already gone by the time I got around calling and got his voice mail. I tried again at 7:30 this morning and actually talked to him and said he still had it, I asked if he'd hold it for me until he got home ~5:30 and since it was about 2 1/2 hours away I didn't want to make the trip for nothing. Well, everything worked out and got her home this evening. It's a 1995 520 with 808 hours....48" dozer blade (without the extension brackets ), wheel weights, VEEEEERY nice hub caps, 48" deck and a powered bagger to boot!!!!!!! It was a great score!!!!! This is the second great WH I've scored in about a month that I almost didn't call on because it was such a good deal and I figured it was gone already. It just goes to show don't hesitate to call, it just might still be available.

Local CL ad C-160 $200 trans not functioning correct, engine runs fine etc. Around here that is enough info to go look anyway. I get there and it was pretty rough, told the guy no thanks and he says $150...no thanks, he says $100...obviously I had to drop the gate to the trailer....Newer 42" RD deck, rear lift and cable, dry cracked tires and plenty of oil and grease everywhere!

don't worry about hurting any carb parts with that neutered crap

I am a new member, 6 month owner. This thread is intended to show, and get help with bringing my c-160 back to working condition. I've gone through the k341 motor, new fuel, lines, filter, and fuel pump. The carb ran fine, but I pulled it off and cleaned it with an ultrasonic machine. Runs like new. When I bought it, it pushed freely, so I assumed tow valve was open, or hydro motor was shot. It was the later for me. I had drained and filled with new 10w30 and a toro filter. Pushed freely, and made an attempt at moving forward, but would stop on an ant hill. Hydro lift did nothing. I checked the hoses to see if they had filled with oil, which they did, so I was pretty sure the pump was working, but the motor was bad. Following the sundstrand manual, I trouble shot it to a worn thrust plate. I priced it at 180 on ebay, or 259 at dealer after finding that it was the case. So today I picked up a c-141. And I'm wondering what I should do. C-160 came with 90-1140 C-141 came with 90-1173 The differences seem to be -the 141 has a brake band and the 160 doesn't. -the pulleys appear to be different. Should I swap the whole rear end as a whole, or just the pump/motor to the old differential? Can I just remove the brake assembly and be good? Thanks Steve.

Did you know that ONLY 2% of the forum members pay 100% of the expenses for RedSquare? Like what you see, thank a supporter. Really like it? Become one.

Scott I plan on being there.I'll donate a brand new after market 8 hp and smaller or a 16 hp Kohler carb($85 value) or $50 in merchandise from my display- winners choice. I want a Tee shirt when available.Plan on seeing again.Hopefully I'll have "my little pony" (a lawn ranger puller)done by then.I also plan on bringing "Charlie Horse"my heavyweight pulling tractor.

great work I have made quite a few new throttle shafts and bushings so far for my carbs have not made a throttle plates yet as I sand blast them and get the old ones replated awesome!!!! Brian

I'd say it's a 1960 Suburban 550. Nice find.

Sounds like a 550 or 551 which has a 5.5hp Tecumseh lauson.

I used to use this stuff when I was a kid called Mac's Carb cleaner sold by NAPA, It smelled like cancer and I have no Idea if it is still available but man did it work good. Only needed like 20 minutes.

all three of my H60s have steel sleeve in the aluminum block

AND for just $10 (money goes to St. Baldrick) you get a chance to win a BRAND NEW First Edition and a chance to win a BRAND NEW Final edition right here on RedSquare: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/raffles/raffle/5-2013-max-nunn-raffle/

Here, Here Scott. You are right! I wrote and printed these books for one reason only. To get the accurate history of these tractors out to the hobbyists. If everyone who wanted a book purchased it at the sales price when the book is on sale from me there would not be a large secondary market. The first edition was a new endeavor for me and All proceeds were given to charity. The second edition was not intended to be of lesser quality, but it was and I should never have had it printed in another country. I trusted a print agent in California who ripped me off big time. He should be ashamed of himself for what I lost. I am honored and flabbergasted that people are collecting them, but in my opinion the Final Edition is by far the best in content and quality. The books were not written as volumes containing different information. They are editions in which information was added or enhanced. Nothing was deleted, just improved upon. I feel that I made all the right choices with the final edition. It is the best quality book available anywhere. I planned the consumer market very well and I still have plenty of books to go around for quite a while, just as I planned. No one will ever imagine the resources that I had to borrow and invest to print the final edition. My profit is very marginal. I know a few people have voiced shipping costs, but I want to get the book to the reader with the same quality of service as the book's quality. I know that we are in a recession, but one must understand a book of this quality, plus a professionally produced DVD and this book is priced below what the publisher and printer recommended. I just purchased seven text books for my daughter's college classes. Most were of far lesser quality, contained less pages, and no DVD; selling for $92 to $122 each. I ask everyone please do not resell these books on the secondary market to make a profit. You may not realize it now, but I feel that the price increase of these secondary market books is hurting the hobby in many ways. I also feel very strongly that we should try to treat each more honestly and with kindness. Don't post negative comments about some one or something. Only positive. When a few of us got together to plan the first Wheel Horse show back in 1998, we were all happy with what we had and didn't hurt someone else over a tractor or money. We just had fun riding them and enjoying each other's company. The saying "whoever dies with the most toys wins" shouldn't apply to this hobby.

i believe a H60 has a cast iron cylinder liner

NO, the 518 uses the lighter Eaton 700 trans, it will not except a hyd lift, you can swap in a Eaton 1100 trans from like a 520 and add the hyd lift, I just sold a complete trans with lift out of a 520 just for that reason.

I'm working in San Diego for a couple weeks and the weekend work got screwed up by trucking delays....so I went for a bike ride! I'm here with a couple other guys with motorcycle licenses and there's a local guy here we are working with that has a bike so the three of us rented bikes. One guy rented a Fat Boy, the other a full dressed Harley and I went totally different and opted for a Triumph Bonneville. I love the old school looks of the triumph! The local guy took us way east of San Diego and we got into the mountains where all the roads just twist and turn, it was a bikers dream just laying the bikes over in the curves. We took one particularly curvy road that brought us to the highest point in SD, Polamer Mountain. Not exactly a massive mountain but the road to get to the top was a blast. The Bonneville was great with no clearance issues but the two Harley guys were scraping the pavement plenty. There were lots of guys on sport bikes really tearing it up of course. The mountain roads have plenty of spots to stop and take in the awesome views, perfect for photos. We checked out an observatory on Polamer Mountain but for the life of me I cant remember the name (to lazy to "BING" it) Had to stop for lunch in Julian, who doesn't like pie! After doing miles and miles of curvy mountain roads we headed for the Anza Borrego Desert. I have never been in a desert and didn't know what to expect. As we left the mountains and headed down into the desert you could feel the temps climbing. No matter how fast you rode the air in your face was just like the hot air blast you get when you open an oven. We stopped for a water break and the local guys BMW bike had a temp gage....it was 113 degrees!! The desert sand is real soft and one Harley dug in and had to be pushed out....very heavy bike! We came across some huge rusty welded sculptures which made great picture taking spots. There was a small town but no one was outside. I can only assume they come out at night? It was a bit creepy to see a town with no people. In the end we did 260 awesome miles! Mike............

well it is a pepper pot...... dad got to ride it earlier tonight as kent was enjoying washing the dishes. for somebody who hates this job, he spends a bunch of time messing around at the sink....... anyway, rode it around, runs nice, rear is a little noisy, not hydro but unidrive part of trans. also its leaking from the parking brake (fixed this once before) and i see its damp around the direction control on the pump. i think after this season i will pull the trans and do all the seals properly, also look at the final drive and axle bearings as well...... heres a bunch of pics of it out in the sun.... right now he is out there getting some seat time, might sneak out and get a vid in a moment.........

U-Haul has cheap daily, and weekend rates... and you won't have to look at it sitting around the house when not in use. Got one for the big show Thurs morning, returned it just before closing Sat evening... ended up charging me for one day, and waived the additional insurance I got too.

Pornographic? LOL If that was the case I would have bought more.

ok heres some pics You can see where this is going. Im dropping the front axle on the hot rod, Im going to make one out of aluminum.One with red hood is going to be stock.