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Not what the title seems... I needed some extra weight backing up the snowblower from the chicken house so I called my wife to help. She caught some rays in the process too

All of my runners are workers. The 520 just mows. The Ranger does most of the "pulling" work - dethatcher, aerator sweeper, and lawn cart. The 1267 has mowed, but the last few years it has mainly been another "Pulling" machine. In the fall however I got my tiller up and working, and this one will probably became a dedicted tilling machine. Havent used the 502 in a couple of years, but its set up with the sickle mower: The 310 has been the snow removal machine this winter (I never mounted the blower up on anything so far this winter):

Regardless of their intended purpose...always buy more tractors.

Hey I didn't know C-series was you! The 520 has been an absolutely awesome machine for me! She cleaned up very nice and has been a bear of a worker. Hopefully I can upload the blizzard video tomm.

The governor is a speed control device and does not "kick in" - it functions constantly. The throttle cable (indirectly) pulls on the governor spring that's attached to the lower part of the governor lever. Pulling the lower part of the lever causes the top to move away from the carburetor, which opens the throttle plate via a link between the arm and the throttle shaft. The centrifugal weights and thimble on the governor gear respond directly to engine rpm. As the engine speed increases, the weights cause the thimble to move outward against the tab on the governor cross shaft, moving the top of the governor arm towards the carburetor - closing the throttle plate. When the spring tension and the centrifugal weight force equalize, the engine speed remains relatively constant. If a load is applied to the engine and the rpm drops, the weights and thimble retract (against spring tension), allowing the throttle plate to open. This "cycle" repeats indefinitely as long as the engine is running. Providing all related parts are correct, present, and in good condition, it may only be an adjustment issue. If you synchronized the governor lever / cross shaft per the manual, it's possibly a throttle stop or cable adjustment issue.

Frequent oil changes, I change oil way more then necessary in my Horses. I started watchin' oil many years ago when I owned diesels and Road Ranger transmissions. Waste oil was examined/tested for carbon, metals, etc., part of fleet maintenance. Fix it before it breaks. The UPS observation was just that. Why they did, what they do, doesn't matter. My Stallions are always clean, inside and out. Oil is inexpensive enough. FYI. I sold a 300D Turbo Benz with 375,000 miles on it for five grand, years ago. Oil changed every 3000 miles, used semi-synthetic Dryden (I knew Dryden).

I don't know how much we got but it was 4" taller than a dachshund ( much to his surprise), so I' guessing close to a foot.

Wheel Horses multiply after you get two! The garage will be full next year. The only to control it is to just have one.

Local Weatherman just predicted 0 snow for us in NE Ohio. 1 to 3 inches 20 miles south of me and 2 to 4 farther south. I'm ok with that.

Boo, in the colder temperatures of winter, a higher charge voltage is actually a plus to the life of the battery. Standard thought on a "correct" 14.5 volts from the regulator will result in undercharging a battery in the winter months. Having said that, the advice from Jim and Mike is right on for a 3 amp stator system. Mike pointed to a post I made a while back about inserting additional diodes into the charge line to decrease the charge voltage. I acquired a 211-5 a year or so back that insisted on settling the charge voltage in at 16+ volts. I inserted 2 additional 3 amp diodes in series with the original diode and the voltage dropped to 14.8 at top engine speed. The battery will survive much longer at this reduced charge voltage. Any voltage above 14.5 will start to break down the electrolyte in the battery and "boil off" water in the battery. Not "boil off" as in a pot boiling on the stove but slowly breaking down the hydrogen / oxygen bonds in the water so the electrolyte slowly disappears from the battery in the form of released gasses. This of course is a slow process, but may take a battery capable of 4 years on the tractor and decrease the useful life down to a year or two. Radio shack sells the 3 amp diodes and the heat shrink tubing to effect the modification. I can vouch for the fact that it works. The reason it does work is a well known electrical property of power diodes - constant VOLTAGE drop across the diode under varying CURRENT flows. Each diode will maintain a constant drop of 0.6 to 0.7 volts under a very wide range of current flows.