Leaderboard

The wfe in the pic is a factory adjustable unit.Tractor has live hydraulics,pto,three point hitch and a hi/lo trans.I remember sitting on my grandfathers lap holding the wheel as a child.When he passed away in 1990 we had the tractor engraved on his stone.

A while back I had some zinc plating done so I also sent along a bunch of other parts to be plated also. I finally got around to installing some of them. So out with the old And in with the new I also added some more of Terrys decals I love working on these things.

This tractor has been in the family since new.She's been sitting a few years,last fall i started to clean her up and get her running.I also put the original NFE back on.It will get a full resto when time and money permits.

I agree, sounds like alot of work, not saying it can't be done, but why, look on CL there is lots of cheap mowers that use the vert shaft engines, heck in my area there is a very nice craftsman with a bad engine for $100 with deck and plow, tractor looks new in the pics, I'm sure ones like that can be had all over, just look.

When you replace the chain. Keep the old one to wrap around your front tire for better steering. It's good to recycle! :angry-soapbox:

Steve, my '57 has 4 bolts on the hood too.

You are going to have to make room or let something go if you keep rackin em up at this rate. Its startin to look REAL tight in there. (I might be cash heavy this Sunday) Lol!

Here you go Bud, Essentially, you need to lift either the ground wire or the positive cable leading from the battery terminals and insert your meter set to read DC amps in series with the remainder of the tractor wiring. READ YOUR METER INSTRUCTION MANUAL ON HOW TO SET THE METER FOR DC AMPERAGE AND WHICH METER SOCKETS YOU NEED TO INSERT YOUR MEASURING LEADS INTO TO MEASURE CURRENT. The sockets for current are different than the sockets to measure voltage and ohms. This is true 99% of time on multimeters. SET THE METER TO READ THE HIGHEST CURRENT POSSIBLE - USUALLY 10 AMPS ( some meters have a 20 amp scale). THIS IS DONE TO PROTECT THE METER FROM BLOWING AN INTERNAL FUSE IF THE CURRENT THRU THE METER EXCEEDS THE METER RANGE. If the parasitic current is less than 1 amp, the meter may not register any reading on the 10 map scale. It is then safe to switch the meter to read on a lesser scale for DC amps - say 200 milliamp (.200 amps). Hook up the meter leads in your tractor like in the diagram above. The parasitic current will actually be flowing thru the meter body. Let's say for the sake of conversation, the parasitic drain is in the headlamp circuit. We hook the meter up in the positive battery cable circuit, note the meter reading and it is .3 amps - so we have a 300 milliamp (.3amp) parasitic drain. Now lets look at all the components current will flow thru in the above diagram. Starter solenoid , ignition coil, and lighting circuit. Start by removing the blue wire from the starter solenoid - no change in meter reading - no parasitic current flowing thru the solenoid. Replace the blue wire. Lift the orange wire from the ignition coil - multimeter reading remains at .3 amps. So no parasitic current is flowing thru the ignition coil. Replace the orange wire. Now we come to the headlight / taillight circuit. Lift the Green wire from the headlight Multimeter indication drops to zero amps - you found the circuit the parasitic current is flowing thru. Now, if you have taillights parallel wired of headlights, disconnect the headlights. Still have .300 amps on the multimeter readout - well sir, you have unwanted current flow to the taillights. Time to take a visual look at the taillight wiring / taillight housing. If you let me know what model tractor you have, maybe we can pull a wiring schematic and start to highlight the different current paths in that particular model. Please say its not a 520H !! Good question - thanks for starting a good thread.